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Declining numbers recorded on the Via de la Plata

Bradypus

Migratory hermit
Donating Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Too many and too often!
Many news articles recently commenting on the record number of Compostelas issued in 2024. By contrast an article from a Zamora website today notes that while pilgrim numbers on other routes have grown significantly in recent years numbers walking the Via de la Plata in particular have declined over the past decade. Some comment from a local Amigos group about a lack of investment and promotion from local authorities. I found myself in two minds while reading the piece. Better infrastructure could make the Via de la Plata an easier and more comfortable route to walk. But would that change its special character?

El Camino de Santiago de la Vía de la Plata cae un 10% en una década y la mayor parte de los peregrinos no pasa por Zamora

Los datos de 2024 son inferiores a los de 2015 en un contexto de gran crecimiento en la llegada de peregrinos a la ciudad santa
enfoquezamora.com
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
I think it undoubtedly would change it's special character, but then there must be a happy medium somewhere I guess? At what point did the CF investment and improved infrastructure start to have a negative effect on the character of that route - and even then, that is subjective to each individual in a way.

One thing is though that many places on these routes benefit from the additional income and breathing new life in to some of these rural areas as discussed in another thread.
 
Back in 2011 when I first walked the Plata I started comparing numbers along the "main" Camino routes including the Plata and continued doing so up until about 2018/19 and noted that the numbers along the Plata remained consistently around 9,000. The last couple of years has shown a drop below 9,000.

Although I'm not at all surprised that the numbers have not followed the other Caminos (due to infrastructure, weather & stages) I can't explain the drop. After having walked the Plata on 3 or 4 different occasions and talking to hospis, it would seem that the "typical" Plata walker is ok with its solitary nature, less infrastructure and often longer stages. It's not for everyone that's clear but there are still walkers out there like me who enjoy such a route. Why the drop?
 
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I don't know exactly why the numbers are getting lower, but I am not surprised that the Via de la Plata never took off like the other Caminos. I think the most important reason is the split season. The graphs of Caminos like the Francés, Portugués, Norte, Inglés, Primitivo have the shape of a dromedary, with the peak in summer, while the VdlP has a camel shape: 2 clear bumps in spring and autumn.

This makes it hard/unattractive for albergue owners to make a living out of this Camino: you would receive pilgrims in March/April and then again in September/October. With little possibility for growth. And then these things go hand in hand: less albergues, less pilgrims.
 
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It is a hard camino but also very rewarding. I would advocate it for anyone who prefers to avoid crowds and can appreciate big open spaces and fabulous historic cities and towns.

The exponential growth of pilgrims on the CF, Portugese, Ingles and Norte routes has perhaps been down to people who normally wouldn't take a hiking or walking holiday. Somehow they are persuaded that a) they want to walk the Camino (attracted by the history or by The Way or other popular culture) *and* b) there is enough infrastructure and support services that they can do it without too much discomfort.

History is definitely there on the VdP but there is less infrastructure and some necessarily longer stages which are obstacles to its popularisation. But perhaps it is those very obstacles which make it more precious to those who are brave enough to undertake it.
 
It could be that the numbers are dropping because of albergues having closed on important stages. Like the alberge at the embalse de Alcántara. I walked the VdlP in 2013/2014 and loved it. I have looked into it again recently, but I got very reluctant when I saw how long some stages have gotten (combined with being more than 10 years older now, that is).

I remember the longest stages back then were 'only' 27/28 kms. Seems like there are quite a bit more challenges now. So I am afraid the problem won't be that it will ever get (too) popular, but more the other way around. Lack of pilgrims could lead to more albergue closures. A lot of the villages and towns on the VdlP are very similar to the Francés: isolated, losing population and facilities. And the number of pilgrims on the VdlP is not high enough to keep businesses up.
 
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It is really a wonderful thing that we are all so different! My wife and I completed the CP from Lisbon this year and, on reflection, we much preferred the open spaces, and simply wonderful pueblos and cities found, along the VdlP. Almaden de la Plata (I still think of the wonderful approach to this pueblo), El Real de la Jara, Merida, Aljucen, Caceres, Banos de Montemayor...wow...the list just goes on (and all those places before you even get to the Sanabres)!

I suspect some pilgrims hesitate on walking this route because a good few think stages are too long... with poor support. I would maintain that, with good pre-planning, it is quite easy to break the VdlP into very manageable stages (only one day put us above a walk of 30 km). This is a very 'doable' Spring/Autumn pilgrimage, with so much to offer those that are looking for a 'road less travelled'. Buen Camino.
 
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I think people may be getting out off by it being made out to be harder than it really is. I don't think it's harder physically than some and didn't think there was an issue with facilities. I didn't plan and went at short notice. The weather was lovely. It would benefit from some accommodation option @ the embalse. It's not a first camino (although I met people who were doing it as their first). It's like the meseta which is presented by some as crossing the Sahara or gobi desert. Having recently done a couple of Caminos with no albergues or meaningful guides i think the vdp is a very comfortable walk...with a pack and not in summer.
 
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Kev&Kath said:
I think people may be getting out off by it being made out to be harder than it really is.
Click to expand...
Kev&Kath said:
I would maintain that, with good pre-planning, it is quite easy to break the VdlP into very manageable stages (only one day put us above a walk of 30 km).
Click to expand...
I agree with both of the above. For some reason, people think they must walk the long distance when 2 short days are possible.

Luka said:
I think the most important reason is the split season.
Click to expand...
This is an excellent point. I loved the VDLP and I don't favour "hard" routes, but I would only start it in March, April, or October.
 
This is an interesting discussion. My first thought upon reading the OP was, 'Well, of course VdlP numbers are down. With the recent explosion of popularity of routes like the Portuguese Coastal, we can see that many modern pilgrims don't want what the VdlP offers (isolation, long days, limited services etc) and they want more of a 'walking holiday' that the CP offers: seaside, coffee break opportunities, non-albergue accommodation options etc. So this makes complete sense.'

But @LTfit makes an intriguing point as to why VdlP numbers were steady for a long time and only now are dropping:


Maybe there's a certain natural upper limit here and many of those who are likely to want to walk the VdlP once or even a few times have already done that. Or maybe this generation is just producing fewer of these typical Plata walkers. Or maybe people in the past walked the VdlP out of 'necessity' when they wanted a different route and there weren't as many options as there are now. I have no idea if any of these theories have any merit, but it's interesting to speculate.

For what it's worth, I still haven't walked the VdlP but I'm pretty sure I will one day, though not until 2027 at the absolute earliest. It helps that I don't drink coffee and don't care that much for the seaside!
 
I "think" I noticed some infrastructure improvements on my recent VDLP, namely on the

Castilblanco de los Arroyos - Almadén de la Plata​

stage. That is the one on like day 2 or 3 out of Seville where you "used to" walk on the road for like 16 km until banging a right through the nature park.

This last trip there was a "freshly created?" path that ran parallel to the road about halfway up the old road stretch. It was much nicer.

The challenging aspects of the VDLP in my opinion aren't terrain related (I call it the Via de la Flata), but just that there aren't services available for long distances on several of the stages. Like people freak out on the France's meseta on that "No water for 17 km" stretch, but that seems to be a regular occurrence on the VDLP. So what you gain by walking on relatively easy terrain is lost by having to carry more food and water.
 
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It is not the relatively small drop in numbers which strikes me most forcefully. What really seems remarkable is that while numbers elsewhere on the Caminos have exploded those on the VdlP have been virtually static for so long. Particularly for those beginning in Seville. 1,924 in 2009. 2,385 in the 2010 Holy Year. 2,069 in 2019 - just before Covid. 1,791 last year. Over the same period overall Compostela numbers have more than trebled but there has been almost no change in numbers leaving Seville.
 
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I walked this route 11 years ago and for the longest time it remained my favourite Camino experience. Probably because of the people I met and have stayed friends with ever since. It was my first solo walk after having retired just 7 days before. I loved the long stages, history, the spring flowers and big skies. The people in the towns were so welcoming after the Frances the prior year. Only 2 hours of rain after a very wet Camino the prior fall was brilliant! Mostly just German and French pilgrims at that time. A special memory which I am very reluctant to try to repeat now. For me it would likely not be as good the second time.
 
Thank you for this which is timely for me. I have had the VDLP planned in many times only to be cancelled but am planning it in April and keeping my fingers crossed! It looks fantastic contrast to the more publicised routes and a nice mix of beauty and solitude. A bit of a challenge too. Not too of one I hope as I don’t want any suffering but looks like what I want right now! I am assuming that I will need to a bit of planning as opposed to my just ‘turn up and walk’ albeit I always try to plan accommodation a few days in advance.
 
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I loved the VDLP and didn't find it particularly challenging. But I didn't like the lack of food services in so many areas. Not being able to make regular stops at bars for coffee and food sucked. And eating peanut butter and crackers for dinner and breakfast yet again because I neglected to stock up on food the day before and there was nothing open in the village when I arrived sucked, but that was my own fault. And I had a couple weeks of cold rainy weather. But those things aside, I loved it more than the CF. Mostly because of the lack of pilgrims. It's an awesome feeling walking all alone under that big sky.
 
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I lived on turrón on the VdlP lol
And sometimes those little shops in villages opened especially for us (few) pilgrims so we could each buy one banana or something other....
Loved it.
No, seriously, the reason I would never walk it again was these cows with calves... (It was June)
Otherwise I didn't find it difficult at all. It is a lovely walk.
 
I'll be walking the VDLP, starting in Sevilla, at the end of March. This will be my third Camino (2nd route). I'm a bit anxious at the challenges of the lack of infrastructure support and the solitary nature of the Camino. Unlike so many here (on the forums in general), I don't view the significant lack of pilgrims as a great benefit of this route. I recently watched the youtube vlogs of an older gentleman who walked the VDLP and he commented on how he and others would purposely slow down or speed up to avoid catching up to each other; presumably because catching up and saying hello to each other was a situation to be avoided at all costs? I found that sad. While I don't like or want a conga line of pilgrims, 5 pilgrims purposely avoiding each other on 27 kilometer stages isn't the environment I hope to find either. In any case, I chose this route as a physical and spiritual challenge foremost, yet hope to meet interesting friendly folks along the way. But, I'll adapt to whatever I find.
 
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As long as you know what to expect... it's a blast. Buen camino.
 
jflorez said:
While I don't like or want a conga line of pilgrims, 5 pilgrims purposely avoiding each other on 27 kilometer stages isn't the environment I hope to find either.
Click to expand...
I think that the VdlP attracts a fairly high percentage of solitaries like myself. People who are happier on their own. I often enjoy my random meetings with other pilgrims while walking but I do not seek them out. I would not actively avoid contact with others by changing my pace but I would not deliberately speed up or slow down in order to meet up with another walker either. That would feel intrusive to me. My first Camino experience was very solitary - I probably met no more than 30 other pilgrims between SJPDP and Santiago. I am quite happy with that level of contact. I think you will probably discover quite quickly which of your fellow pilgrims welcome company and which would prefer to walk alone.
 
Yes that pretty much describes me too. I do like meeting folks and am outgoing and very socialable, but also enjoy my own company and just being alone with my thoughts! Certainly always walk alone for the majority of the day and quite like an informal meet up in evenings for a drink or dinner but not a fan of Camino family type things. I am a slow walker anyway although I like to walk a long day so I will just see how things pan out! Bring it on I guess!
 
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Agreed,. Any socially adept person should be able to discover rather quickly if someone prefers to not be bothered. Both of my experiences walking the Camino Frances were deeply enriched by the variety of people that I met along the way. I'm hopeful that remains true on the VDLP.
 
Hola - I am walking the VDLP and starting in Salamanca - as previously posted, because I only have 5 or 6 weeks (in addition to the one week of Spanish learning) time away and given that from Oz its a full day each way flying I aim to include as many items as possible. I am aware from earlier planning that there are a significant number of +30km days between Sevilla and Salamanca and some older pilgrims may not wish to walk those daily distances. Great artical. Cheers to OP.
 
Saint Mike II said:
I am aware from earlier planning that there are a significant number of +30km days between Sevilla and Salamanca
Click to expand...
But do you consider 2 to be "a significant number" in this context?
  • Castilblanco to Almaden de la Plata is about 30 km
  • Casar de Caceres to Cañaveral is about 34 km
That's it, as far as I can tell, and as experienced! There are simple ways to get taxi assist for those stages if necessary. Everywhere else can be walked in stages under 30 km, and under 25 km in most cases.
 
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Bradypus said:
The huge black pigs made me more nervous. Big sharp teeth in there...
Click to expand...
As you said, they were delightful welcoming creatures when I walked through their paddocks - happy pigs, tender tasting jamon, wealthier farmers.
 
Mozarabe/VdlP/Sanabres/Fisterra was my first in 2008. I was very unfit when I started from Malaga. By the time I reached Fisterra I had lost 15 kg and was as fit as a butcher's dog.

I loved all of it. The lack of infrastructure didn't bother me, probably because I had few expectations. I had the old CSJ guides which, to say the least were basic, but adequate. I got lost, briefly, only once.

I had accommodation either in albergues or hostales every night and never went short of food or drink. Sure, some of the stages were long, but I was only 53 yo.

Do yourself a favour and go for this superb route. It has it all for mind, body and spirit.
 
Interesting.

My experience of the VDLP was quite brief, walking southbound from Zamora to Villanueva de Campeán in 2022 on my Way to Portugal and Fátima, but over the course of just over 48H spread over three days, I encountered about 60 or more pilgrims, which I understand is more than most encounter on the whole VDLP.

So this is very anecdotal certainly, and take it with an appropriate pinch of salt, but the great majority among them had started at Salamanca ; almost none stayed at the Albergue in Zamora but either walked on further or stayed in private accommodation, mostly hotels among those who talked with me there, and those not even stopping in Zamora except for shops and maybe drinks or a meal seemed to be the majority. Which might at least shed some light on how the Zamora figures in particular are so low.
 
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Exactly my point. I'm still struggling with the lack of facilities comments. If people want the ability to stop every 5kms for a latte then yes, but I never went hungry or missed a good dinner/late lunch. Walking in April there were plenty of pilgrims albeit most were retired. I made lifelong friends and even met my partner enroute. At one stage I paused to get out of synch with a large group putting pressure on facilities. Although for some the distances may be longer the terrain is easy going, the heat avoidable and for the want of carrying a banana or two and not having an hourly coffee fix could hardly be described as arduous. Aside from being made out to be overly challenging by some it may simply come down to the extra time needed compared with most other routes and therefore get factored out.
 
I like to walk every step of the way and with no excessive kms / day.

Last year on a hot-ish day there was a time for an exception to avoid unnecessary hardship or possibly bodily damage:

- Caceres to Cañaveral by bus - apparently no bus from Casar de Caceres.

Otherwise no lack of facilities or difficulty with food, and I never carry food, but look forward to the afternoon Spanish lunches.
 
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Blister Bill said:
I think people may be getting out off by it being made out to be harder than it really is. I don't think it's harder physically than some and didn't think there was an issue with facilities.
Click to expand...
Blister Bill said:
If people want the ability to stop every 5kms for a latte then yes,
Click to expand...

I totally agree. It's largely flat. In terms of hiking it's easy; in terms of amenities it's relatively speaking 'tough'.
 
I guess the Via de la Plata's stagnant or declining numbers are to do with it effectively not having a summer season, its length, relative lack of facilities, and relatively dull terrain. As mentioned above the massive increase in Camino walkers probably means that on average those people value amenities more than in the past.

I loved it though.
 
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I have walked the VDLP 4 times now starting after Easter and love it. I'm even thinking of going back in my 80th year in 3 years time. I have always found somewhere to have a meal each night and often with company. Now that I am older I don't mind shortening a long stage with transport and last year took a bus from Caceres to Canaveral.
My most magical experience happened on a narrow path on the way to Galisteo. There was a sheep giving birth to two lambs right in the path. I stood there in awe for ages ,not wanting to upset her by squeezing past. Finally managed to get past talking quietly to this beautiful sheep. Took lots of photos and a short video. That is the VDLP to me. Magical!
 
I walked the Via Augusta to Seville in March 2023 and the VdlP to Granja de Moreruela then on the Camino Sanabres to SdC. It's not a route for people who like to have a second breakfast and sit down in a bar in between. Most of the time there is nothing on the stage, sometimes not even water.

If you inform yourself well enough beforehand, you will know whether you want to do this Camino or prefer something easier with much more infrastructure and contacts to other pilgrims.
 
Safety?

Safety concerns aren’t solely about being attacked by rogue momma cows, pigs, or people.

But, concerns about health problems may also be a factor.

When walking CF, or relatively solitary caminos with a newly built good infrastructure, if arthritis aches a little too much on a particular day, or meds are lost, or this or that health problem then help via other pilgrims, towns, cafes, pharmacies, et cetera is nearby.

Many VdlP walkers are older with at least one completed camino under their belts.

That population might be giving pause to VdlP.

Those repeated long solo days with nary a person, cafe, around: Um!
 
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Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Sirage said:
- Caceres to Cañaveral by bus - apparently no bus from Casar de Caceres.
Click to expand...
So this last time I spent the night in Caceres. I like that place. The next day I only walked the 11km or so to Casar. It was a nice chill walk for a bit of a "near-0" day.

The time before I caught the bus from Caceres to Casar in the morning. Then just walked to Cańaveral.
 
nycwalking said:
Many VdlP walkers are older with at least one completed camino under their belts.

That population might be giving pause to VdlP.
Click to expand...
Not entirely convinced. My experience has generally been that as older people drop off the perch another generation of wrinklies comes along to replace them. Something that is becoming all too personal lately...
 
I can't offer any empirical evidence. But I swear the VDLP is older. Maybe it is because they (we) are the only ones with the guts to do it. Maybe they just like the terrain profiles. It is also curious about the proportion of nationalities...
 
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Damien Reynolds said:
It is also curious about the proportion of nationalities...
Click to expand...
That struck me too. Spanish pilgrims are a minority overall in the Compostela figures these days (about 44% last year) but still a definite majority on the VdlP. And while pilgrims from the US have grown to be the largest non-Spanish group receiving Compostelas (about 8% last year) they only make up about 3% of those on the VdlP - behind the Spanish, Portuguese, Italians and Germans. Why are US pilgrims so much more likely to choose other routes and be disproportionately scarce on the VdlP?
 
its all about marketing.
 
Damien Reynolds said:
I can't offer any empirical evidence. But I swear the VDLP is older. Maybe it is because they (we) are the only ones with the guts to do it. Maybe they just like the terrain profiles. It is also curious about the proportion of nationalities...
Click to expand...
There were only few pilgrims when I walked it (it was June!) . Nationalities: 2 French (me included), 1 English (my husband), another French/Moroccan lady, 3 Spanish, 2 Italians, one from Holland and a Canadian.
I think we were the oldest, together with one of the Spanish guys, the others were much younger
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
That's because you walked in the "wrong" direction; not walking to Santiago, what pilgrims normally do. So of course you would see every pilgrim walking within those 48 hours.

I am a bit confused by all the worries about the VdlP: I walked it in two consecutive years (2012-2013, at the age of 58-59), Sevilla-Salamanca and Salamanca-Sanabres-Santiago.

I never had problems finding lodging. The distances were very managable (except 2 days after Sevilla: Take a bus/taxi, and I could take some short days to cut off some longer distances that were unmanageable for me.

The wide open landscapes, high skies, and the culture/history inside the VdlP are mindblowing.

Today, I would not walk it again, due to my age (71) and with some health issues. I could end up being alone and in big trouble; noone there to help me out.

But if you are healthy and not prone to getting seriously ill, just go. It is a fantastic Camino.

FOr me now, at my age, I'll do the CF: Security lies in the numbers of pilgrims/network of villages/towns.

Buen Camino VdlP!

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Damien Reynolds said:
I can't offer any empirical evidence. But I swear the VDLP is older. Maybe it is because they (we) are the only ones with the guts to do it. Maybe they just like the terrain profiles. It is also curious about the proportion of nationalities...
Click to expand...
Not so much the only ones with the guts to do it, but the only ones with the time I think. Us older people are retired and don't need to plan around limited holiday time.
I love the Via, my favourite camino so far, but as far as the terrain profile, it is rather misleading. There are plenty of hills, especially on the Sanabres section that will give you a good workout.
As for nationalities, I saw one other Australian, one American, one South African, one Japanese, one Korean and several British, Irish, Germans, French, Dutch, Spanish and other Europeans. Most were older, but some were younger in their 20s and 30s.
 
I met three or four pilgrims last spring on the VDLP who were doing their first camino, which surprised me. They had all been scared off of the CF because of the reports of the crowds.
 
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Only encountered 3 from the US and only 1 Spaniard. The largest national grouping were Germans. I wonder if the national breakdown is affected much by the different starting locations ? I did meet in SdC one American and his young son who proudly told me they had just completed the VdP. Impressed at the young man's fortitude I asked where they had started from. Ourense !
 
Blister Bill said:
they had just completed the VdP. Impressed at the young man's fortitude I asked where they had started from. Ourense !
Click to expand...
That’s a true pilgrim. I hope they did walk the whole way and didn’t use the bus.

Via de la Plata from Ourense to Santiago Last 100km​

 
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I did 5 Camino and the Via de la Plata also.

For a long and quiet time to walk and to reflect on ourselves I think this Camino represent a long long meditation without being distracted by large crowds of people multitude of cafes and restaurants etc.

I remember walking long days and seing just nature, or cultivated fields.

I think that Via de la Plata is ideal for people trying to do just a pilgrimage without the distractions you would find on the most popular Camino Frances.
 
ParisOslo said:
I think that Via de la Plata is ideal for people trying to do just a pilgrimage without the distractions you would find on the most popular Camino Frances.
Click to expand...
I found the Via de la Plata very similar in numbers to my first Camino Frances though the accommodation on the VdlP was usually of better standard than I remember from that first Camino.
 
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