Day 2 on the Salvador

[peregrina2000]

Hi, peregrinos,
I'm not sure when I posted last, but my Vadiniense took a nose dive in Gradefes. It was also one of the high points, since Rebekah drove out to see me and we had a quick trip to San Miguel de la Escalada, and then a big meal at a roadside bar. But after she dropped me off back at the albergue, I realized that even I, stubborn as I am, would be crazy to walk with my pinky toe looking the way it looked. I will spare you the details, but about 12 kms before arriving in Gradefes, I took my boots off for a rest to find my sock soaked in blood -- not a good sign.

So, after Reb dropped me off at the very nice albergue, I looked again at my toe and decided that I would have to suck it up and take a bus. The alternative was to wait it out in Gradefes, and though it's a nice little town, it's not a place to spend three extra days. I'm one of those nut cases who has never taken a bus, not in any of my annual caminos since 2000. It was a big deal, but I digress....

I took three days in León, basically just walking and playing tourist. San Isidoro is free on Thurs. afternoon, the Museo de León is free on Saturday (HIGHLY recommended, it's terrific), I went to the cathedral (gasp -- there is now a 5 euro entry charge), talked to many peregrinos, etc. On Friday night I went to bed with the nagging thought -- what if these boots are just too small for me? I hadn't really thought about that, since after all they are the same make and model and size that I've walked thousands of kms in, but when I put them back on on Sat. morning, they felt tight.

So after visiting the Museo de León, I spent the rest of the morning touring all the hiking shoe stores in León -- there are 5, at least that I found. One pair of Salewa felt pretty good, not great, but their 170 euro price was kind of steep. Finally, in a foot locker-type store, I tried on a pair of low Salomons, and they felt really great. I plunked down the 70 euros and said a prayer to Santiago.

Now, two days later, I am in the swing again. I felt so good on Sunday that I decided to push on past La Robla to Pola de Gordón. The Pensión Arenal is still there, the rate has gone from 15 to 18, but the barking dalmations are in fine shape, no extra charge for their added cacophony.

Yesterday Spain played Italy in the Eurocopa (tied), and there were many news reports about the EU's decision to lend Spain up to 100,000 million euros. ( Can someone tell me how many billion that is? ) Does anyone want to guess which of these items was of more interest and passion in the bars of Pola de Gordón?

Today's walk from Pola de Gordón to Pajares was spectacular. Last time I walked the Camino del Salvador with Javier and Nieves, we missed a turn and wound up grinding up to the Puerto de Pajares on the side of the N-630. It was awful. Today, I found the turn (no thanks to me, it's just that the marking has improved), and the walk went through mountain wonderland. Itś a slight but not much of an exaggeration to say that it is so well marked that you can see the next marker from the marker or arrow you are standing at. I am the world's pro at getting lost and was slightly concerned because this is really a remote part of the world, but I had absolutely no problem. I will post my pictures when I get back, so you can see for yourself, but it was just incredible.

So now here I am all alone in the nice albergue in Pajares. The hospitalera turned on the heat and a computer, so what more could I want. The bar up on the highway is under new management, and they are great. Gave me a tupperware filled with menestra, some bread and some Rioja, and here I am back in the albergue warm and happy.

Two or three more days to Oviedo, and this time I will get inside Santa Cristina de Lena or bust.

Thanks for the good wishes. Annie, I'm keeping good notes for you, and I'll post them on my return. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[angulero]

Me alegro que te guste el camino. Las vistas desde Pajares son preciosas y espero que hayas sacado buenas fotografías. Para mañana y pasado mañana se esperan lluvias, pero ese es el precio que tenemos que pagar para que esté todo tan verde y bonito.

I'm glad you like the way. The views from Pajares are beautiful and I hope you got good pictures. For tomorrow and rain is expected, but that's the price we pay for everything is so green and beautiful.

¡Buen Camino!.

P.D.: Seguro que en el bar hablaban de economía.
Y mañana oirás hablar mucho de París. :wink:

 

[enderjace]

Hola, soy ender.
Espero que las flechas y las conchas te hayan guiado correctamente y que hayas ido por el nuevo camino marcado a Pajares, si llegas a avisar hubiera ido a saludarte a Pola de Gordón, ya nos contaras si te ha gustado este camino y las fotos y notas que hayas sacado.
Que tengas un buen camino.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Laurie, I am so glad you decided to soldier on.
Note to Mortal Beings: Walking from Pola de Gordon to Pajares is for SuperHikers like our friend Laurie, or for 20-year-old athletes. When I did it last (granted, the weather was bad and the path then was not well-marked) that stretch took me TWO LONG DAYS!

Ender and his crew have done heroic work marking the path. It is (arguably) the most scenic of the many scenic caminos out there, and this is the perfect time of year to do it.

Keep up the great work, Laurie!

 

[amancio]

wow!!!

Pola de Gordón to Pajares is a looong walk, undoubtedly the most beautiful stretch of every single Camino I know of, I hope you had nice weather, because it makes a huge difference.

The way is beautifully and patiently marked by Ender, his work, his patience and his determination have worked a real miracle and it is just hard to get lost; we did Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares with fog and in the middle of a blizzard, and we never got lost - in fact, we were even luck y enough to paint a couple of arrows and plant a few iron shells and arrows.

We were also very lucky in that we were able to see Santa María de Arbás, just before Pajares, and the lady in Pajares is really friendly too.

You still have a couple of gorgeous days to Oviedo, enjoy them, and do not miss Santa Cristina de Lena, you can ring in advance so that the lady in charge is expecting your arrival and arranges to meet you; it is a magical place.

I wish I were there now myself, it was 5 memorable days last april/may, I have to come back some day, the landscape, the people, the albergues... everything is exceptional. We met a Hungarian couple who were doing Madrid-Sahagún-León-Oviedo-Santiago-Fisterra... I doubt there is a more beautiful walk than that.

As you may have noticed by now, local miners are on strike, and they are well organized at cutting motorways and railway lines, I hope that does not affect you.

Enjoy the rest of the way, compañera!!!

 

[jennysa]

It sounds fantastic, Laurie; I would love to walk it and am seriously thinking of doing it in October. Are there many other pilgrims on the Salvador? Jenny

 

[Jeff Stys]

Laurie: Sorry to hear about your toe but sounds like things are definately looking up! I had one camino end prematurely by a bloody toe.

I can't wait to see your pictures. I did the route but took the wronng turn and ended up on the highway route....and it was still mostly beautiful.

Buen Camino, Jeff

 

[peregrina2000]

Re: Day 3 on the Salvador

Showered, installed, and all alone (again) in the Albergue in Pola de Lena. Having the computer in the centro de jóvenes downstairs is really a godsend for me, it´s nice not to always feel alone!

This morning when I got up before leaving Pajares, I checked the weather on the web and for Campomanes it showed a huge sun and temps in the high 20s C. Then I realized that was the report for Campomanes, Badajoz, not Campomanes, Asturias. Rain was definitely in the forecast for my Campomanes.

I left early, and by the time I was in Llanos de Somerón, my shoes and my clothes were soaked -- no rain had fallen, but the Camino goes through dense green growth, lots of water and mud -- you get the picture. But it was really beautiful.

As I was leaving Llanos de Somerón on a narrow rarely-used road, a car came barreling up toward me with lights flashing. I wasn´t quite sure what to think, till the car stopped and out popped -- Ender! The Ender who saved my life with his many arrows on the stretch between Poladura and Pajares, and who has done so many things to make the Camino del Salvador the wonderful camino it is. We had a short chat and arranged to meet up in Campomanes for a café. But he was also there waiting a few kms down the road to make sure I got on the right track for Fresnedo and Herías. What a gorgeous stretch. Even in the cloudy weather (no rain till right before Campomanes), it´s hard not to say wow over and over.

In Campomanes, there were trucks blocking the highways -- part of the miners´strike. The Rajoy government has decided to cut subsidies to the mining industry so drastically that it will result in immediate unemployment for tens of thousands. The miners have a long history of protest and strikes, I think it goes back to before the Spanish Civil War. There was a contingent of media in the little café, but talking with Ender was far more interesting. He has still more plans for the Salvador!

The last kms into Pola de Lena have been nicely re-routed off the national highway and took me right to Santa Cristina de Lena. The last time I was by here, the church was closed, but the meadow and the view of the outside were heavenly. This time, I was able to visit the inside, but the outside is in scaffolding for restoration work (5 month´s estimate). It was a real treat to get inside, though, just awe-inspiring.

Anyway, tomorrow I´m off but may not go all the way to Oviedo. There´s an albergue in Mieres and though it is only 14 km, it´s 33 km to Oviedo and I´m feeling like I´ve used up my post-30 days for a while. Thanks for the notes amigos -- and Jenny, I have seen four cyclists and no walkers. The hospitalera in Pajares tells me the numbers have doubled every year for the last three years. But we´re still talking hundreds for the entire year. Buen camino!

 

[FatmaG]

It is great to read some news, Laurie!
And the Camino del Salvador is straight back into my memory with all its beauties and stuggling... (Ender's flechas were not yet installed and me and Maria, a young Asturian woman I met, nearly got lost in the fog between Poladura and Pajares)
Incredible to walk from Pola de Gordon to Pajares...
All the best for you and your camino

 

[jennysa]

Thanks so much for your daily reports Laurie. I am sure there are many of us following your journey. Now looking forward to day 4. Buen Camino.

 

[peregrina2000]

Day 4 -- Yesterday morning I slept in and woke at 6:30. I was out of the albergue by 7, even with having to put some bandaging on my toes. Just as Rebekah´s guide notes, right on the Camino on the way out of town there´s a pastry store that is open 7 days a week at 6:30 and makes decent coffee. The waitress must have thought I looked hungry because she whipped me up a little chocolate batido and put it next to my croissant. Great way to start the camino, because the albergue in Pola de Lena has no kitchen.

The first 6 kms from Pola to Ujo are on the side of a VERY narrow shoulder-less road with lots of curves, and a fair amount of traffic, at least on work days. Luckily it is light at 6:30 now, but I remember walking it in the near dark in late September and it was treacherous. I didn´t even go into the town of Ujo this time, since I had had my coffee. So I was able to hop right on the river walk which goes all the way to Mieres. It is all paved, but most of the way I was able to walk on grass on the side.

I had gone to bed thinking I would be stopping in Mieres, to be nice to my feet more than anything, but as I was walking I replayed a conversation I had had with Ender the day before. He had given me a great piece of adice -- Sólo hay que mentalizarte, mujer. (All you´ve got to do is prepare yourself mentally). So when I got to Mieres, and entered the tourist office promptly at 10, instead of asking for a list of pensiones, I just asked for a sello for my credencial. And then went to find a bench for a snack and to mentalizarme.

First goal -- get to Olloniego, that was 10 km with a steady climb and some beautiful descents in those little green tunnels. Next, make it to the top of the third hill, that was the hard segment, lots of pavement, one steeper ascent than the first, but finally I was at a nice picnic area for a rest before starting the last part -- just 4 or 5 asphalt kms to Oviedo.

So I did it just fine, the weather was great, that last little ascent seems unnecessarily cruel, though. By 4 I was in the Pensión Los Arcos, whose owners I like a lot and where I´ve stayed before.

I´ve seen a few peregrinos, finally, my first since San Vicente de la Barquera. But I haven´t been over to the albergue yet. I walked up to the Naranco pre-romanesque church and palace this morning, I never tire of those incredible places. And I´ve been to the Museo Arqueológico, which is nice, but not quite as nice as León´s, IMO. There´s a Goya and Sorolla in the Museo Bellas Artes, so I´ll visit that museum and the cathedral´s museum to keep busy this afternoon. Got to get this midwestern hick some culture!

I have kept notes to supplement the CSJ guide, and will make them available as soon as I´m back. Fatma, I sincerely do not know how you could have done that incredible crossing from Poladura to Arbas-Pajares without Ender´s markings. I have lots of favorite Camino etapas, but I am almost ready to agree with Amancio that the stretch from Poladura de la Tercia to Pajares is at the very top.

So, off to the Primitivo it is, then. Still feeling the damage from the asphalt of the Norte-Vadiniense, but I am in much better shape than a week ago. Buen camino! Laurie