LIVE from the Camino Cruiser75 on the Primitivo

[cruiser75]

I was a bit apprehensive about getting out the door this morning, I'm not sure why. After leaving the key at the front desk I got a coffee at the restaurant next door.

With the rain persisting to fall I put on the rain cover for the backpack and left the hotel. It never occurred to me to ask for a stamp before I ventured out.

I didn't expect the cathedral to be open at such a ghastly hour (08:00) but I was hoping that the small church behind it would be. It wasn't but I did meet Francisca from Malaga and she was starting the Oviedo to Lugo route and between the two of us we located the first shell that marks the way from the cathedral. It was a little bit harder than expected.

I returned to the hotel and asked if they had a stamp and they did. So I was officially on my Camino but not before stopping for a breakfast pastry from one of the local bakeries.

Finding and following the shells out of the city is a bit like a treasure hunt. I didn't always take the right path but the locals were very helpful in pointing out the right way to go.

When you are just about out of the city there is a nice statue that remembers the very first to take the the Primitivo route.

I took lots of photos and videos for the first hour or so and would have taken more if the weather was better. I ate wild blackberries along the way before catching up with Francisca at the first capilla or small church/shrine, Capilla de Carmen. I stamped my book and put on my poncho again as the rain started up again. I left it on for the rest of the day.

Francisca and I parted ways after about an hour but not before agreeing to meet up again in Paladin for a beer. I walked ahead and enjoyed the scenery even with the continuous rain.

I arrived at Paladin around 13:40 and booked myself in, changed into dry clothes and ordered a beer. It wasn't long before others started to arrive and eventually Francisca arrived in and we had beer and a pilgrim plate for lunch.

Francisca took advantage of the break in the rain and continued on to Grado where her backpack was waiting.

After a quick, hot shower I shared the laundry machine with another pilgrim. Now that the weather has improved I'm sitting outside writing this post. It might time for another beer.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Great photos! Good that you’re just easing into it with a short first day. Keep your eyes peeled immediately after the bridge over the river for the turnoff into the woods tomorrow morning (about 2kms in) . Otherwise you’ll end up on the main road for the next 3km or so (all the way into Grado). Seriously boring, not to mention not as nice for your feet

Rain or not, I suspect many of us on the forum would join you in an instant given the chance. Buen Camino!

 

[alexwalker]

...Now that the weather has improved I'm sitting outside writing this post. It might time for another beer.

Beer is so much more than just a breakfast drink on the Camino...

Buen Camino,y que os deseo mejor tiempo!! (Wishing you better weather)

 

[Damien Reynolds]

For those that have been on the Primitivo route should I be adding water purification/filtration to my pack?

Oh no. this is not necessary. See the beautiful thing about the Camino is you don't have to carry the survival stuff. I walk in the Sierras in CA, so I know what you mean. I carry 1 liter of water. There are always places to fill up, (if you like tap, personally the smell of chlorine in my water, smells like, victory.)

 

[David Tallan]

Oh no. this is not necessary. See the beautiful thing about the Camino is you don't have to carry the survival stuff. I walk in the Sierras in CA, so I know what you mean. I carry 1 liter of water. There are always places to fill up, (if you like tap, personally the smell of chlorine in my water, smells like, victory.)

Except on the Hospitales portion (if you take that option) where there is about 20 km between potable water sources. In the summer they advised carrying 3 L of water. Although I think I could have managed with 2 or maybe even 1.5, only carrying 1 L in the summer for 20 km is really pushing it.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Oh no. this is not necessary. See the beautiful thing about the Camino is you don't have to carry the survival stuff. I walk in the Sierras in CA, so I know what you mean. I carry 1 liter of water. There are always places to fill up, (if you like tap, personally the smell of chlorine in my water, smells like, victory.)

On the Primitivo, not always. It’s easy to go 10km without a tap. Personally I carried - and used - 1.5l.
The Hopitales - I echo @David Tallan on this, personally speaking I drank 1.75 litres on a misty, 23 degree day. I would easily have Drunk a full 2I + on a sunny day, let alone a hot sunny day! The reason I didn’t was that one of us had only bought 1.25l and she’d run out around the 15km mark, so I gave her half of my 500ml bottle.
She was the only one of us that was carrying less than 2l.
I appreciate that we all have different requirements, but unless you’re very certain of yours, carry a little more.

 

[cruiser75]

I'm tired and my feet are clearly expressing their dislike of back to back days of walking!

Let's start at the beginning of the day. I left Villa Palatina at 08:15 or at least I tried to. Turns out the gate works by remote when locked. I didn't see anyone around and didn't want to wake anyone up but a few moments later someone knocked on the window and hit the remote button. Away I went.

I quickly realized that my feet weren't too happy about my decision and a little further on I understood why my shoulders were sore this morning. I convinced myself to get on with it and I enjoyed the wall into Grado.

Somehow when I arrived at Grado I realized that I had forgotten to get a stamp from the albergue in the morning before I left. I walked through town following the yellow arrows and the shells until I passed an albergue. I quickly went in, asked for a stamp and headed up the road.

I met a fellow pilgrim from the albergue last night as I was walking out of the grocery store and they advised me that they were at the post office. I wanted to send some postcards home and decided to go back and get some postcards and send them. So, the post office doesn't sell postcards but they did have stamps so I got some and went on my way. I hope to find postcards soon. If anyone knows where let me know!

I made my way out of town and enjoyed my first pastry of the day. Then I ate the second and felt a bit guilty about it. Then there was a short, sharp climb and a few stops later to catch my breath and the guilt was gone. I needed that carb load.

More beautiful farm scenery, queue the cow bells and chatty birds. I met a couple moving cattle from one field to the next and waited for them to tell me it was okay to pass. The people along the camino are very friendly.

I had a quick chat with a person cycling from Bilbao to Santiago and up the next hill I went. Eventually I met up with another pilgrim from France that I met briefly at the cathedral in Oviedo the morning I left. We walked and chatted all the way into Salas.

If you are close to Cornellana and see the option to go to the left to Monasterio de San Salvador or go straight and follow the camino, don't worry it wraps around meets up with the camino path again. It will bypass town though. We did not take the option because I was listening to my feet at this point. We found out after it loops around and meets the camino.

I appreciate how friendly the locals are. For the third time in two days someone has approached me and advised that I was off route and guided me back on track. So if you are busy chatting and don't pay attention to the markers this will happen to you too!

We made it into Salas and we are staying at the municipal albergue only because it was the first albergue sign we saw and I needed to stop.

The usual fun activities of showering and laundry ensued and now I write to you from a local cafe that serves more than just coffee. The

municipal albergue has a full service bicycle repair station with tools and a stand which impressed me.

 

[cruiser75]

I had that dreaded lost sock panic first thing this morning... I found it stuck to the outside of my backpack. I did use a mesh laundry bag the other day in Paladin and it made it so easy to share the wash with another person. I got that idea from watching one of @Peterexpatkiwi 's videos on YouTube. I left the municipal at around 07:30 and walked under the stone arch on the way out of Salas.

There were a number of pilgrims already on the camino ahead of me but I found plenty of stretches where no one was in front and no one was behind. It was peaceful and a great moment to reflect on how happy I am that I stopped researching and bought a plane ticket.

The path from Salas to Tineo passes many old bridges from the 17th to 18th century. I couldn't resist climbing down to get a better look.

After the steep climbs of yesterday I was feeling good about the gentle rises and drops through the farms and villages. The scenery was picturesque with the sun coming up behind and highlighting the rolling farmland with the rich green grass and blue sky as the backdrop. The sights and sounds on the Camino Primitivo have had me wondering if the other caminos can live up to this one. What is your favorite camino?

I saw another sign saying how many kilometers to Santiago this morning. Does anyone know what the actual Camino Primitivo distance is from Oviedo to Santiago de Compostela? I saw the first day that said something like 320 if I remember correctly.

Today I met more wonderful people from all over the world and reunited with others from the previous two days. This seems to be the way of the camino.

There was a lady from Argentina now living in Germany, two German ladies doing the Camino Primitivo in reverse and Elly from the Netherlands on her last camino possibly.

Waking in to Tineo I met another lady from Germany on her first camino also. We decided to have lunch at Bar La Griega. The food and the cold drinks were delicious. They don't have a pilgrim menu of the day but they had a good selection of combination plates on the menu for about €10. Elly arrived up so I was happy to order another cerveza. Before we left, the owner gave us each a gift that included a snack, tissues and a knit yellow arrow.

After lunch I booked in to the hotel for the night and got a single room for a change. With it being a shorter day and the option to soak in a tub I didn't hesitate. I hope the clothes dry before tomorrow!

Later tonight some of us will meet up for a drink and maybe a light meal. This for me is what the camino is really about. Meeting strangers and sharing stories.

 

[cruiser75]

 

[cruiser75]

Leaving Tineo this morning
View attachment VID_20230901_085120615.mp4

 

[peregrina2000]

Leaving Tineo this morning

I can picture that spot perfectly, it is one of the most beautiful stretches of the Primitivo, IMHO. You are so lucky to have perfect weather to enjoy it.

Hoping the weather holds for you tomorrow on the etapa reina!

Buen camino @cruiser75.

 

[cruiser75]

I'm sitting at El Barin de Borres right now. I'm looking at maps and deciding on how far to go. I think I'll go to Colinas and see what the weather looks like in the morning. Either way I think I'll take the Hospitales route through the mountains.

I love this little bar with its cold beer! Salut

 

[peregrina2000]

I love this little bar with its cold beer!

The picture on the top right shows that the Christmas lottery tickets are already on sale! This is pretty much a national passion, the Christmas lottery. You can buy a décimo for 20€. Each ticket is 200€, broken up into 10. Most of the Spaniards I know (none of whom are gamblers in any sense of the word) always buy a couple.

The annual tradition involves children from the San Ildefonso school in Madrid, formally dressed, who sing the winning numbers as they pull out the round balls from a wire basket. Always takes place a few days before Christmas. The school used to be part of an orphanage, but it now educates a lot of immigrant children, so the faces of the singing children now really reflect the diversity of Madrid’s population.

You can see how the children pick the winning numbers and then sing on a million youtube videos, here’s one. It’s always the same sweet sing-song voice, and the tune is burned into my brain.

This tradition goes back hundreds of years and is always televized. This year the prize is 4,000,000 € for the big prize, “el gordo,” and families, coworkers, all sorts of groups get together to pitch in to buy a ticket.

Sorry for the off-topic ramble on pop culture, but anyone who is walking now can participate for a mere 20 € anywhere you see a sign like the ones at the top left of @cruiser75’s picture from the inside of the bar!

 

[dbier]

Ah, but how would a non-European collect?

BTW, OP, looking to follow you starting the 15th. Eek!

 

[cruiser75]

Starting Hospitales...looks like it might get interesting

 

[cruiser75]

Evidence of recent fire

 

[cruiser75]

 

[cruiser75]

Hola from Grandas de Salime. I didn't leave an update last night because I stopped walking at the Santa Maria de Lago capilla, some 40 kilometers from Tineo. I was very tired and there was also no mobile service.

Looking back on my decisions from yesterday I'm glad I went through Hospitales when I did. I got to see the amazing views early on and then witnessed the mists roll up the hill and back down again. It was incredible and beautiful.

I shared the mountains with no one but the horses and the cattle. It was peaceful and breathtaking.

The nights accommodations weren't not to be repeated! A concrete floor outside a capilla and inside a bivy was not great for the body! I camped outside the Iglesia de Santa Maria de Lago.

Needless to say I was up early and headed out well dressed for the cooler weather. I made it to the albergue in Berducedo just as some of the others were heading out. I refilled my water bottles and walked out with a friend from France I met the first day in Oviedo!

I'm sure it happens to everyone at least once, we were talking so much that we missed the signs and ended up a few minutes off route! A quick check of the map and we were got back on the camino.

At the newer Albergue Miguelin we stopped for a well deserved coffee, toast and homemade blueberry juice. Of course the heavens opened and we had no choice to leave in the rain.

The rain kept coming down and everyone got very wet. There were many pilgrims on the camino this morning. Eventually the rains stopped and a small patch of blue skies started to show.

Many beautiful views along the way with the highlight for me being the Navia River. The climb from the dam was tough. The two of us committed to the final climb with me taking the lead the first 3 kilometers and me following the next 3. We were both very tired and if we didn't just go for it I'm not sure we would have made it.

I was so happy to see town and checked in to a hostal/bar and a single room. A quick shower and change and downstairs to get the reward!

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Starting Hospitales...looks like it might get interesting
View attachment 155478

Wow, were you lucky with the Hospitales! I just had mist almost the entire day - a 15 minute break in the weather near the mid point, but whilst the sun shone it was just shining on the clouds below. Then the mist rolled back in - which I loved. Beautiful temperature for walking, so no complaints - and I resolved to come back again, so that I can see the much vaunted views....
Clearly your leg is ok if you hammered out a 40km day...
Enjoying reading, keep writing !

 

[cruiser75]

...
Clearly your leg is ok if you hammered out a 40km day...
Enjoying reading, keep writing !

I felt like I got my "camino legs" yesterday and decided to go for it. I had always packed planning for the need to stay outdoors, just in case. Not something I would recommend to everyone but if you are prepared then go for it. I just wish I had a longer pad between me and the concrete!

 

[AndisPath]

This is giving me the push I need to finally just book my flight and get there! Beautiful! Thanks for sharing!

Leaving Tineo this morning
View attachment 155457

 

[cruiser75]

Grandas de Salime to Fonsagrada

After a great night's sleep I decided to pack up and move on. I had thought about taking a rest day and meeting back up with some pilgrims I left behind. I felt good and ready for another day.

I left Patrick (from France), and headed over to the local cafe for a morning coffee. There were other pilgrims with the same idea, having a quick coffee and bread before starting the camino. A quick update with the people back home and I was out the door.

Again, I was saved by another pilgrim heading out of town. I had taken a wrong turn and I heard this voice calling out. I turned and there was someone pointing uphill in the opposite direction. I think my body is beginning to take charge and wants to only walk on the flat roads now.

I met back up with Patrick a little bit after leaving Grandas at a small shop which serves coffee and breakfast beers and snacks for the day. So don't worry if you walk out of Grandas and didn't get a coffee it won't be long before you have a another chance!

I don't know why but it just seems like there are more people on the camino today than normal. It is nice to see so many taking the opportunity to walk.

I met a Portuguese group that are on their fifth camino. There were a couple of very tall guys from Germany (I don't think I could keep up with them), a couple from Utah, USA a Kiwi, a couple from England a lady from Wales and many others.

Beautiful views, amazing smells of pine, flowers and earth. I have also been sending my niece's their daily cat photo from the camino. If you love Cats or know someone that is, there are so many along the way!

Walking into Fonsagrada can be a little taxing on the mind and body for some. There is a steady climb up to the town. I spoke with a couple of people later after checking in to the albergue and they said that today felt harder for some reason. For me it was also hard!

I checked in to the albergue that was recently renovated about three years ago. It is beautiful in my opinion with an impressively stocked kitchen and a vending machine that has cans of beer, water and snacks.

Arriving on a Sunday in any Galician town is going to be similar to the experience we all had here at Fonsagrada, most places will be closed. There are bars open however most of the kitchens will be closed. I found El Bar Recuncar had a delicious arepa for €5 and chilled glasses with cold beer. The super market has a small variety of choices but was open from 18:00 - 20:00 on Sunday afternoon.

On the way back from the supermarket the rain started so I rushed back to get the laundry hanging outside but fortunately an angel took it in for me! Thank you!

I'm now in the kitchen with a delicious biscuit I bought at the cafe in Grandas de Salime and finishing this post.

FYI: I'm at Casa Cuartel which is on the first street you come to after the steep hill up. It was €15 for a bed and €40 for a room. Great place.

 

[cruiser75]

Outside of Fonsagrada this morning
View attachment VID_20230904_085516734.mp4

 

[cruiser75]

I left the albergue this morning at around 07:30 along with most of the other pilgrims. It seems to be getting busier and busier as we get closer to Lugo.

Walking out of A Fonsagrada I felt good and ready to walk. I opted to not stop at the bar/cafe next to the gas station at the edge of town. The next stop for coffee wasn't until about 10:00. As you walk down the hill you will meet the cafe on the left with several picnic tables and a friendly family serving great coffee and sandwiches. I had a cafe con leche and when back on the road, finished my tortilla from the other day.

Another great day for walking with a mix of overcast skies, blue skies and sunshine with some wind at the right times to cool me down.

We stopped for a lunch break at an old farmhouse with log stumps for seats and tables outside. It was so quiet with just the birds in the background and a warm breeze. I felt like taking a nap on the grass.

We are definitely in Galicia now. There are still the usual elevated grain storage buildings but we came across one with a grass or thatched roof. Galicia has a Celtic influence from the fifth century. There have been suttle signs of this influence since Grandas de Salime.

Today I met a lady from Uruguay walking with a group of friends, three young engineers from Spain and Mexico, as well as many familiar faces. It is always nice to walk around the corner and meet your camino friends!

It was nice to walk in silence for a while and enjoy the scenery, weather and the time on the camino.

We arrived at O Cádavo Baleira just before 16:00 and checked in at the Pension Porta Santa. It was €50 for a double room with ensuite. Laundry is €9 for a wash and dry, I used the sink outside instead and the large clothes line ensured lots of space.

If you arrive mid day then the Restaurante Meira O Cádavo has the kitchen open all day and the super market is open from 18:00 to 20:00. I had the half menu and enjoyed a plate of beef ribs and boiled potatoes with a beer of course! I could have been in Dublin.

 

[cruiser75]

 

[peregrina2000]

We stopped for a lunch break at an old farmhouse with log stumps for seats and tables outside.

Last time I went through, this place was closed. How great that it is open. What I remember is that it was owned by someone with a connection to Argentina, and his family, but that he had closed it. Either he is back or someone else has taken over, terrific, This is a very nice place to take a break, especially if it’s raining, as it frequently is! But apparently not for you, @cruiser75.

And I’m wondering if you took the down and up before A Lastra. The last time I was there, the Xunta’s attempts at trail improvement had turned this wooded path into gravel, but the weather had washed much of it away and it was looking much worse than when it was just a regular “unimproved” trail. There was also a guy in that hamlet down there (Gronze suggests it might be called O Couto) who was trying to fix up his grandparents’ home and was talking about an albergue, but I didn’t see any signs of that the last time I was through.

These are absolutely gorgeous pictures, @cruiser75!

 

[cruiser75]

Last time I went through, this place was closed. How great that it is open.

If it is the same place as the photo with the blue trim on the door and the stumps outside, it is still closed unfortunately. It didn't look as if anyone had been there for a while.

And I’m wondering if you took the down and up before A Lastra. The last time I was there, the Xunta’s attempts at trail improvement had turned this wooded path into gravel, but the weather had washed much of it away and it was looking much worse than when it was just a regular “unimproved” trail. There was also a guy in that hamlet down there (Gronze suggests it might be called O Couto) who was trying to fix up his grandparents’ home and was talking about an albergue, but I didn’t see any signs of that the last time I was through.

I'm not too sure where that would be but I can say that there looks to be some recent work done with concrete/gravel trail surfaces and some wooden walkways with railings to keep pilgrims separated from traffic and off the narrow shoulders. This was in a few spots along the route today.

 

[AndisPath]

View attachment 155743
View attachment 155744

Your photos are beautiful

 

[CanadianBarb]

Leaving Tineo this morning
View attachment 155457

Really appreciating your sharing. My husband and I will be starting on Sept 25 in Oviedo and it is getting me very excited! Buen Camino!

 

[cruiser75]

O Cádavo Baleira to Lugo

No alarm needed! My body just wakes me up now and tells me it is time to start walking.

I took advantage of the kitchen this morning and made myself an instant coffee with leche, it wasn't the same but it got me going. I wanted a little extra to get me going plus it gave me time to check the weather, send a few messages, eat my yogurt and say hi to some fellow pilgrims.

We left the pension and opted to go straight to the camino thinking there wouldn't be a long walk to the next coffee opportunity! The next coffee didn't come until Castroverde. When we arrived there were many pilgrims there and more came after us.

Leaving Castroverde can be a bit confusing if you decided to get a coffee. Head towards the church with the fountain in front and from there you will see the camino markers again.

Despite there being no big climbs most of us felt like today was harder. Some said it was because there was no big views and others said it was because of the walk from the previous day. Either way, I got to two kilometers from Lugo and couldn't go further. We stopped on a large rock group just before the bridge that crosses the highway.

Everyone, that walked by or stopped to share some food, was feeling the same, tired! We packed up just as the rain started and a walked into Lugo.

If I haven't mentioned it before, I haven't planned or booked anything for this camino. The first place we tried didn't have any single rooms left, the second didn't answer the bell and the third was Hotel Exe Puerta de San Pedro. We got a room with two beds for €65 per night including breakfast.

A shower and a 20 minute nap later I was back on the street heading to the Prime Colada laundry to wash and dry clothes. There I met Leon and Julie from England also doing chores! Thanks to them for the heads up about the high heat setting being too much! I used the lowest setting and it was just enough heat. If you want a wine or beer while waiting for the self service wash, go across the street to the bar!

I'll stay in Lugo for an extra day to see the sights!

 

[cruiser75]

View attachment VID_20230905_093321782.mp4

 

[cruiser75]

Okay, 200 meters from Ferreira it starts to rain so I'm one beer in at the Cantina de Ferreira!

I have to go back to Lugo to continue this story. If you are either starting or passing through Lugo I recommend spending a day or two there. The history of this city and the local area is amazing. After two museums, four bars, one wall, one cathedral and one huge dinner later I still didn't see everything I wanted to see!

I will continue this after I eat.

Okay, we have checked in to Casa da Ponte (€50/night for two beds).
We tried the albergue next to the cantina but it was after 20:00 and there was no one there.

In Lugo we got a double room with breakfast for €65/night at Exe Hotels. It is located close to the old town (walled city) and close to laundry and other services you may require.

We took advantage of the time and left right after breakfast to walk the wall. First though, we went to talk to the tourist office about getting self guided audio tours of the old city. These do not exist as far as we know. We were given a number to contact a guided tour but only in Spanish.

We spent the early morning until noon waking the wall, taking photos and going to the museum outside the Porta du Santiago across the road from the small church. This museum is free and gives the history of the walled city and of Lugo and Galicia. Highly recommended if you like that sort of thing.

Lunch was a cheese and meat platter with wine and beer at a local bar. I could have spent the rest of the day there but the Provincial Museum was waiting.

The main attraction for me was the Roman ceramics, frescos and artefacts. The period art and portraits was lost on me but no one has ever accused me of being intelligent or sophisticated.

A quick nap at the hotel and it was off to dinner on the recommendation of the concierge. We ended up at Fonte do Rei II. Needless to say I could have easily been brought back to the hotel in a wheelbarrow. The servings are large and the meal overall is heavy. If you order the chuleta it will be big and includes potatoes and peppers. I didn't need to order empanadas or a mixed salad as starters!

The walk back and around the wall was enough and it was time to sleep.

 

[cruiser75]

We arrived at Ferreira and ended up staying at the taberna for dinner as well. The kitchen opened and we had pork chops with chips, garden salad and a cheese with bread. Too much food again!

By the time we left the taberna we had missed the registration at the albergue next door by half an hour. It closed at 20:00. We walked down to Casa do Pedra and got a room with breakfast for €60. A shower and change and a bit of time to socialize with the other pilgrims before going to sleep.

Breakfast was a basic coffee and toast with jam but I did see someone order a plain egg omelette so I'm not sure if that was included or optional. Either way it was enough to get us moving and we hit the camino trail. Immediately after leaving there is a Roman era stone bridge that is still in use today.

Another beautiful day on the camino. There was a definite chill in the air at the start of the day but it would reach mid 20s by the middle of the day.

A hand drawn stamp from an artist, craftsman and musician and a free bunch of grapes from the vine above their door was a special camino moment of the day.

We caught up with the other pilgrims on the path and it is nice to be able to recognize them and have that connection. Stopping for some young people to get that perfect camino photo on the trail was fun. A few moments later and they were all done. I was thankful that the others behind me didn't make a fuss about having to wait. There was the Polish couple, the young couple from Italy on their anniversary, the cousins from France and more new faces as Lugo seems to be a starting point for many.

After a refreshment at a bar along the way we walked into Melide and quickly found a small bar with a few rooms above it for €40. A quick shower and off to do the laundry.

Back at the pension and it is time to get up to date and have a beer.

Buen camino

 

[cruiser75]

 

[alexwalker]

Back at the pension and it is time to get up to date and have a beer.

Peregrino gasolino...

 

[cruiser75]

View attachment VID_20230908_122227905.mp4

 

[David Tallan]

A hand drawn stamp from an artist, craftsman and musician and a free bunch of grapes from the vine above their door was a special camino moment of the day.

Where was this? It is something I will definitely want to look for next time I walk the Primitivo!

 

[David Tallan]

I see you made the same detour I did to Bóveda between Lugo and Ferreira.

 

[cruiser75]

Leaving Melide this morning after a night of thunder and lightning.

 

[cruiser75]

I see you made the same detour I did to Bóveda between Lugo and Ferreira.

Yes, I'm really happy to have made that detour. Following the arrows behind the church takes you past a mill house next to stream and then past a small church with gargoyles and arches from the start of the 13th century. The quiet road meets up with the camino again without having to go back on the road you come in on.

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

I take every variant on offer - they're always there for a good reason!

 

[davejsy]

O Cádavo Baleira to Lugo

No alarm needed! My body just wakes me up now and tells me it is time to start walking.

I took advantage of the kitchen this morning and made myself an instant coffee with leche, it wasn't the same but it got me going. I wanted a little extra to get me going plus it gave me time to check the weather, send a few messages, eat my yogurt and say hi to some fellow pilgrims.

We left the pension and opted to go straight to the camino thinking there wouldn't be a long walk to the next coffee opportunity! The next coffee didn't come until Castroverde. When we arrived there were many pilgrims there and more came after us.

Leaving Castroverde can be a bit confusing if you decided to get a coffee. Head towards the church with the fountain in front and from there you will see the camino markers again.

Despite there being no big climbs most of us felt like today was harder. Some said it was because there was no big views and others said it was because of the walk from the previous day. Either way, I got to two kilometers from Lugo and couldn't go further. We stopped on a large rock group just before the bridge that crosses the highway.

Everyone, that walked by or stopped to share some food, was feeling the same, tired! We packed up just as the rain started and a walked into Lugo.

If I haven't mentioned it before, I haven't planned or booked anything for this camino. The first place we tried didn't have any single rooms left, the second didn't answer the bell and the third was Hotel Exe Puerta de San Pedro. We got a room with two beds for €65 per night including breakfast.

A shower and a 20 minute nap later I was back on the street heading to the Prime Colada laundry to wash and dry clothes. There I met Leon and Julie from England also doing chores! Thanks to them for the heads up about the high heat setting being too much! I used the lowest setting and it was just enough heat. If you want a wine or beer while waiting for the self service wash, go across the street to the bar!

I'll stay in Lugo for an extra day to see the sights!View attachment 155836

Beautiful Lugo

 

[cruiser75]

I'll catch up later but for now a few images from the last morning on the Camino. 5 kilometers to go.

View attachment VID_20230910_084813184.mp4

 

[cruiser75]

The arrival into Santiago was different than the previous 11 days. So many people, bikes, buses and therefore more noise.

It was a reminder that the camino was ending and that the life left on hold for two weeks was waiting.

It is a great feeling to enter the square in front of the cathedral and stop walking and just take in all the emotions around you.

Of course there are lots of photos and some comments about finally making it and what a journey it has been. Messages of congratulations come in from family.

By chance we met another person from France that explained to Patrick where to go to retrieve the compostela. At the office you can scan the QR code to register your name, start date, route and more. I had completed this the day before leaving Oviedo so I just searched my emails for the confirmation and showed it to the security. You will receive a number and be directed to a line to wait for your number to be called. I opted for a record of the kilometers walked so I received two certificates. I bought a tube (€2), at the office to protect the record of achievement.

I'm not sure if there is free wifi available at the office. If you don't have data on your phone or don't have a phone with you then you may want to complete this registration prior to arriving at Santiago.

We decided to stay at the Albergue Seminario Menor which is about a 20 minute walk from the cathedral. An individual room with a single bed, table and a sink cost €25 per night. Again, I had no reservation, and was able to get a room for two nights. Very simple accommodations with great showers, a cafe downstairs, a full self service kitchen, laundry machines, vending machines and plenty of space to sit and eat.

After cleaning up it was time for a celebratory drink and some food. With the kitchens closed until 20:00 and it being a Sunday there were less options for food. We met some familiar faces from the Primitivo and exchanged laughs and greetings and shared the ending with new friends. It was a later than usual night with lots of stories about the camino and of course, sharing ideas for which walk to do next.

Tomorrow will be all about the history of the cathedral, time to relax a bit, reflect and plan what's next.

Buen Camino

 

[Peterexpatkiwi]

Congratulations! Thanks for posting, it was great to vicariously live the Camino again.
Until the next one ….

 

[nycwalking]

Congratulations!

 

[David Tallan]

Thanks for sharing your journey with us!

 

[cruiser75]

Bonus Footage/B Side/Camino Xtra

I decided to use the extra free days I have before my flight on the 15th to walk to Fisterra(Galician) or Finisterre (spanish).

I left from the cathedral early in the morning for one last photo. Not many people about and surprisingly two horses walked in to the square with riders of course. I assume they had just completed some stage of a camino. Either way it was pretty cool to see.

I decided to do three 30 kilometer days to get to Fisterra with time to get back to Santiago by bus.

The first day ended at A Pena. Stayed at the albergue/bar Alto de Pena.

With an early start the next morning we were rewarded by a beautiful sunrise. There were just three of us at the side of the road to witness it.

The plan is to rest after every 10 kilometers and so far it has worked out well. The last five are always going to be the hardest but it seems to be keeping us on track and also allowing for the needed breaks. Breaks are between 30 and 60 minutes depending if it is for a sit down meal or not.

The first 20 kilometers were all corn fields and dairy farms. Lots and lots of corn. The last 10 were in the mountainous area and back in to the forest with streams and a beautiful river.

Tonight we stopped at Hospital where there is only the one albergue and the one bar. They are both run by the same family however they are located in different parts of the village. It is a five minute walk between them.

It was €14 for the bed in a dorm room and €12 for the set menu. The three course meal was the best I have had in Spain so far. I didn't go out of my way to search for the best places to eat on this trip so I'm sure there are many many places that would top this meal. That said, after all day walking and waiting until 19:00 for the kitchen to open it was very tasty. All at the table agreed. Soup starter with bread, salad and the main was slow cooked pork with baked potatoes. Two bottles each of red and white wine for the table was included. A really simple, home cooked meal, serve yourself style with lots of leftovers. I think everyone had seconds as well. One member of the group opted for a vegetarian option and was served a pasta dish with vegetables and sauce that also looked delicious. The usual dessert options of flan, yogurt or fruit were offered as well.

So one more day to go and then back to Santiago. From what I have read I believe that the lighthouse is where the actual kilometer zero maker is located so I should arrive at the end of the earth at around 16:00. I'll try to arrange for a taxi back to give me time to find my bus rather than walk back to town and be rushed.

 

[simeon]

Really appreciating your sharing. My husband and I will be starting on Sept 25 in Oviedo and it is getting me very excited! Buen Camino!

Well I'm starting in Santander on the 20th so you never know we might meet up at some point. Your pictures and descriptions are really making me look forward to it.

 

[keenmargo]

I was a bit apprehensive about getting out the door this morning, I'm not sure why. After leaving the key at the front desk I got a coffee at the restaurant next door.

With the rain persisting to fall I put on the rain cover for the backpack and left the hotel. It never occurred to me to ask for a stamp before I ventured out.

I didn't expect the cathedral to be open at such a ghastly hour (08:00) but I was hoping that the small church behind it would be. It wasn't but I did meet Francisca from Malaga and she was starting the Oviedo to Lugo route and between the two of us we located the first shell that marks the way from the cathedral. It was a little bit harder than expected.

I returned to the hotel and asked if they had a stamp and they did. So I was officially on my Camino but not before stopping for a breakfast pastry from one of the local bakeries.

Finding and following the shells out of the city is a bit like a treasure hunt. I didn't always take the right path but the locals were very helpful in pointing out the right way to go.

When you are just about out of the city there is a nice statue that remembers the very first to take the the Primitivo route.

I took lots of photos and videos for the first hour or so and would have taken more if the weather was better. I ate wild blackberries along the way before catching up with Francisca at the first capilla or small church/shrine, Capilla de Carmen. I stamped my book and put on my poncho again as the rain started up again. I left it on for the rest of the day.

Francisca and I parted ways after about an hour but not before agreeing to meet up again in Paladin for a beer. I walked ahead and enjoyed the scenery even with the continuous rain.

I arrived at Paladin around 13:40 and booked myself in, changed into dry clothes and ordered a beer. It wasn't long before others started to arrive and eventually Francisca arrived in and we had beer and a pilgrim plate for lunch.

Francisca took advantage of the break in the rain and continued on to Grado where her backpack was waiting.

After a quick, hot shower I shared the laundry machine with another pilgrim. Now that the weather has improved I'm sitting outside writing this post. It might time for another beer.

View attachment 155358

Thank you so much for posting this. I start on October 5 and I’m a little nervous because the route is so desolate. I’d love to keep hearing from you.

 

[Tincatinker]

Thank you so much for posting this. I start on October 5 and I’m a little nervous because the route is so desolate. I’d love to keep hearing from you.

@keenmargo, it’s not clear where you actually live or are traveling from as you have chosen to declare yourself as from “Primitivo” on your profile page. Nonetheless the Camino Primitivo is scarcely “desolate”. It is a well way marked path connecting a series of villages and small towns. There is ample provision of inexpensive accommodation, opportunities for rest and refreshments at reasonably regular intervals and the entire route runs through a friendly, civilized country.

Perhaps you could explain where your fearful misapprehensions have originated?

 

[keenmargo]

@keenmargo, it’s not clear where you actually live or are traveling from as you have chosen to declare yourself as from “Primitivo” on your profile page. Nonetheless the Camino Primitivo is scarcely “desolate”. It is a well way marked path connecting a series of villages and small towns. There is ample provision of inexpensive accommodation, opportunities for rest and refreshments at reasonably regular intervals and the entire route runs through a friendly, civilized country.

Perhaps you could explain where your fearful misapprehensions have originated?

My friends who haven’t walked it.

I’m not sure how to use the app yet. I have only read about the route

 

[Tincatinker]

My friends who haven’t walked it.

Always reliable sources.
Which App? All the information you might need is here: https://www.gronze.com/camino-primitivo and your browser will translate if you need it to though the Spanish is basic and repetitive

 

[David Tallan]

My friends who haven’t walked it.

I’m not sure how to use the app yet. I have only read about the route

Well, let me add my voice as someone who has walked it, I would hardly call it desolate. It may not have as much infrastructure as the Frances or Portugues route from Porto, but it has plenty to meet pilgrim needs.

An app is hardly necessary. You can, as Tincatinker suggests, use Gronze for research. If you would like to consult an app, Wise Pilgrim has a Primitivo app and you can download the Primitivo route into the Buen Camino app, both of which have their proponents. (I took both. And often found myself using Gronze.)

 

[Camino Chrissy]

@cruiser75,I don't know how I have totally missed this thread you'd started about your experiences walking the Primitivo.
For now, I have scrolled through and have looked at your many photos; bringing back many memories of my own.
You are an absolutely excellent photographer! Thank you for sharing your journey. Well done!

 

[Tia Valeria]

The whole thread brings back so many wonderful memories of our own Camino Primitivo - lovely photos etc. @cruiser75. Thank you.

 

[dbier]

O Cádavo Baleira to Lugo

No alarm needed! My body just wakes me up now and tells me it is time to start walking.

I took advantage of the kitchen this morning and made myself an instant coffee with leche, it wasn't the same but it got me going. I wanted a little extra to get me going plus it gave me time to check the weather, send a few messages, eat my yogurt and say hi to some fellow pilgrims.

We left the pension and opted to go straight to the camino thinking there wouldn't be a long walk to the next coffee opportunity! The next coffee didn't come until Castroverde. When we arrived there were many pilgrims there and more came after us.

Leaving Castroverde can be a bit confusing if you decided to get a coffee. Head towards the church with the fountain in front and from there you will see the camino markers again.

Despite there being no big climbs most of us felt like today was harder. Some said it was because there was no big views and others said it was because of the walk from the previous day. Either way, I got to two kilometers from Lugo and couldn't go further. We stopped on a large rock group just before the bridge that crosses the highway.

Everyone, that walked by or stopped to share some food, was feeling the same, tired! We packed up just as the rain started and a walked into Lugo.

If I haven't mentioned it before, I haven't planned or booked anything for this camino. The first place we tried didn't have any single rooms left, the second didn't answer the bell and the third was Hotel Exe Puerta de San Pedro. We got a room with two beds for €65 per night including breakfast.

A shower and a 20 minute nap later I was back on the street heading to the Prime Colada laundry to wash and dry clothes. There I met Leon and Julie from England also doing chores! Thanks to them for the heads up about the high heat setting being too much! I used the lowest setting and it was just enough heat. If you want a wine or beer while waiting for the self service wash, go across the street to the bar!

I'll stay in Lugo for an extra day to see the sights!View attachment 155836

Hah. I'm now re- reading your posts, and I've got to say that, for whatever reason, the stretch into Lugo was brutal. I guess I feel better about my horrific day...?