LIVE from the Camino CP coastal

[RJ in CA]

Day 6
What a beautiful day

The Atlantic was calm and the sun started to show through the clouds

I explored a bit before leaving for my walk today
As soon as I arrived at the point where the coastal meets the senda there were my hiking friends I met in Esposende
Timing is everything
It was a short hike to Caminha today
I took the route through the park (a bit off the Camino) it reconnects to the Camino on the other side
I was so happy to walk on a dirt path and what a nice surprise.
At the end of the park there are the boat taxis. A lot of pilgrims take this route and the boat taxis and miss out on Caminha. If u do go through the park at the end there is a fairly new board walk that takes you safely into the entrance of town.
I am staying at the Design Wine Hotel right on the square.
What a lovely place to hang out. I’ve been sitting in the square just enjoying the peacefulness.
It reminds me of Spain. When I arrived there was a street musician playing Portuguese music. It was so welcoming.
I the entire town is under refurbishment. It is just so quaint I could sit here for days.
But Spain is calling.

Bom Camino

Day 7

Took the water taxi today to Spain
There were 7 of us in the water taxi 2 gentleman on bikes and 5 walkers.

I met a German couple on the boat and we walked together the entire way. We had a lot in common and we will stay in touch.

It was a beautiful day again not too hot and the coast was breathtaking.

We decided to walk into A Guarda to buy some water and fruit.

About 4 km from Oia there is a road side ocean front cafe. We stopped to have a sandwich some Padron peppers and a beer. Fantastic!

When I arrived in Oia the Innkeeper informed me she had Covid. She was isolating and someone else was running the inn. I was not comfortable staying so I paid for the night and went on my way.
I took a taxi to Mougas to Talaso Atlantico. This is the best place yet. Not expensive at all for what it is. I have a huge room with an entryway sitting area a large patio and a full ocean view. I was planning to stay here tonight and was able to come in a day early. 100 euros with breakfast.
I ordered room service and ate dinner on the patio.
Since I have walked 20 km longer that I planned already and I am two days behind schedule I won’t backtrack today.

I so t know how far I will walk today It will depend on the heat.

Buen Camino

 

[RJ in CA]

Breakfast at 9 Today. It was the only open slot so I decided I would take my time today and walk until I wanted to stop. I didn’t have any planned reservations

So happy to be back in Spain

I know the language a bit better and they had tortilla for breakfast!

Another beautiful day on the Camino.

I avoided the mountains and walked the coast into Baiona.

If you haven’t guested by now I LOVE the ocean.

In front t of the Parador Biona is an information center. They give you a stamp and a Baiona

Ribbon. There is also a public restroom. Please stop by if you can.

Walking out of Baiona you will find two (about 100 yards apart) water fountains with the coldest freshest water. I know this because a local man drove up with multiple 5 liter jugs and filled them from the fountain.

I did not walk far today About 10 miles.

I am at Pazo Pias an old monastery. Another wonderful place. I have a private room with private bath. But they have a variety of accommodations. From bunks to rooms with shared and private bathrooms.

They even have a washer and dryer, but it was so warm I washed my clothes by hand and hung them out to dry. They were dry within the hour.

I had dinner at a nice tapps bar around the corner: I Chideiro

I met some women about 5 stages back. They are one stage ahead of me now. I received a text from one of them yesterday saying many in their group have tested positive for Covid. 40 in their group.

Two days ago I walked with two of them for only about 10 minutes and one said she was not feeling well so I decided to walk alone.

I haven’t see one pilgrim with a mask and I’ve been told by pilgrims so many times this week that masked are not necessary. For me: I’m a healthcare worker and my best practice is to wear a mask indoors. I decided private accommodations only early on.

I don’t want to tell anyone what to do. Just please be careful out there and if you don’t feel well it is a good idea to get tested early.

I am praying that they recover quickly. And I’m also praying I don’t t get Covid.



Next I’m taking the coast to Vigo



Stay Cool and Stay Safe.



Buen Camino

 

[mspath]

RJ in CA,
Thanks for your update. Pazo Pias must have been a great stop.
Do stay safe and cool as you keep on. The heat this weekend will be intense.

Wearing a mask still is common here in rural France although it is no longer mandated.

Carpe diem.

 

[Indy]

Thank you for your report

 

[Indy]

Am enjoying your posts. Buen Camino!

 

[J Willhaus]

I wear a mask here in the US even though it is not "required" so do wa hat you feel is right for you.

 

[RJ in CA]

Day 9
I made it to Vigo! Yes it took me 9 days to get to Vigo! I enjoyed slowing down and spending more time in each town.

Today I thought I’d have a normal walk about 15 miles. Boy was I off by about 6 miles. My Apple Watch says I walked 16 miles. My garmin (yes I wear two watches) says I walked a 16 mile distance In 21.5 miles.

Apple uses cell gps. Garmin uses satellite.

I decided to take the easy way in the coast instead of the mountains. Wrong again. This route has lots of hills and weaves you in and out of the coast ( not far but far enough to add a lot of mileage.

It was warm but cloudy all day making it very pleasant to walk. The entire day I walked with 4 young people from Germany. They were almost as slow as me. They stopped a lot. So they would pass me and I would pass them. I saw them in a few days back as well. They were much faster then. Made me feel better about my slowness. I’m 65 and they are 25.

We stopped for lunch at the same place. At noon our apps said were more than half way. But the more we walked the more the kms increased.

The last two hours of our walk google said we were 4 kms away. The joke for the afternoon 4 more kms and mostly flat. They got lucky their hotel is 1.5 km closer than mine.

In hindsight I should have called a taxi at 18 miles.

My reward for my long hike: I used marriott points for my room. I’m platinum so I was upgraded to a two room suite with two bathrooms: one with a soaking tub!

And ……I actually have high speed Internet! First time since I arrived. There are two mini bars and a Nespresso machine too.

Since I don’t have a room in Santiago until May 28 I decided to take a rest day in Vigo and room is free!

I’m off to church and breakfast.

Buen Camino

Btw I still can’t figure out how to post a photo as a thumbnail as soon as I do I will post pics.

 

[RJ in CA]

Am enjoying your posts. Buen Camino!

Thank you!

 

[Lexicos]

They’re reporting a heatwave in Spain. Hopefully the temp will drop while you make your way to Santiago. And hopefully the heatwave won’t last too long….

 

[RJ in CA]

Thank you for the heads up. I’ve only been watching weather day to day in the city I’m walking to and from.

From Vigo rain and upper 60s same on Tuesday then it starts getting warmer. It will be 80s by the time I reach Santiago. Had to buy more sunscreen yesterday

Buen Camino

 

[RJ in CA]

Day 10 was a rest day in Vigo

I went to mass but did it take communion. I want to wait until Santiago,but I did receive a blessing from the priest.

I explored the city of Vigo
Dinner was Thai food Spanish style. Interesting twist on spices. It was very good.

Had I known that I would have to walk up that hill to get out of the city I would not have done it on my test day.

Day 11 Vigo to
Redondela

I got off to a late start. It was raining and I tried to wait til it cleaned a bit. It was easy getting out of the city of Vigo but those hills! I met up with a few late stragglers as well. A couple from Seattle, a man and his teenage son from Virginia and their friend from Venezuela. There was also a family of 6 or 8 from Poland. We all walked together and passed each other on and off all the day.

The downhill into Redondela was steep. I went downhill slalom style. Everyone teased me about it.

There were a lot of fountains on this journey.

When I arrived in Redondela my phone and my backup phone battery was 10% and the backup battery was completely drained. I still had 3 kms to go. I made it with 2% left over. However these 4 lovely young women from Spain I met along the way helped me find where I was going…. They were worried I would get lost. I found the place with no problem it is right on the Camino.

I stayed at Jimboli. Smallest bathroom ever, but it was clean and functional. They have a restaurant and the owner made me an awesome dinner of chicken potato and salad.

That’s all for now


Buen Camino

 

[RJ in CA]

Day 12 off to Pontevedra.

Should be a short walk of about 10 miles for me: right? Not so…
13 miles to my accommodation. T house km markers are way off.

It was a beautiful day again on the Camino. Light rain not hot.

Boy there were a lot of hills, beautiful forests and A lot of pilgrims. Too many to count. A few large groups on tours too.

Getting back to the hills. Remember people were laughing at me yesterday for going down hills like I was skiing. Well today everyone followed my lead. It was awesome everyone in front of me and behind me started to do it. It was too much fun for one hike. I even saw a man doing it up hill! So I followed his lead. Do Mitch better on the knees!

I saw all the people I saw yesterday and met loads more today.

There is a very dangerous road crossing about 6 k out of Redondela. The civil guard was there to direct pilgrim traffic. They were handing out safety vests to each group.

I had my own that I custom made to fit onto my backpack. They were very impressed that I was prepared.

There were two different bagpipers in two different sections of the woods today. There was also a man selling Camino items. He told us not to take the normal route because it is all up hill and walking in the road. He suggested we follow the alternate path. Many of us it did and what a beautiful flat hike. The path runs along a river for about 3 or 4 km. It was really muddy from the rain but it was well worth it.

The path merges back with the main Camino just before Pontevedra.

The hostal Peregrino is the first place sit an eat. Many of us stopped there for a late lunch. And avoid the last rainfall of the day.

When I arrived in Pontevedra the first thing I did was buy two backup phone batteries…. My phone was dead!

My husband is tracking me so I have to have my gps on at all times. I charged the phone to his credit card and sent him a thank you note.

After checking in, showering and washing clothes I went to explore the town. Then I realized I missed pilgrims mass but I still went to church, got a stamp, said a prayer and left some money.

63 kms to go

Buen Camino

 

[Indy]

Great recap! Buen Camino!

 

[Zennor]

How nice to read this. We did that day a month ago - it was our 2nd day as we'd started walking from O Porrino. There was a very steep descent and I really needed my poles. There was only one bagpiper - I bought a ceramic cockle shell from him - and a can of Aquarius from the other guy and then there was the van with the Guardia Civil and we got stamps from them all. We took that alternative path into Pontevedra too. We had a rest day in Pontevedra but it rained a lot. And then we did the Variante Spiritual. Which route are you taking? I'm enjoying following your posts and hope to be back next year to do the Coastal from Porto.