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Counting pilgrims on the Norte

Umwandert

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Donating Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Ingles, F+M, Salvador, Norte, V.Serr., Fr.Leopoldo
Hello everyone, I am currently walking in the opposite direction on the Norte. I started from Santander 5 days ago and am hoping to reach Irun sometime next week. Since I found it funny to count the pilgrims I met on the Fisterra-Muxia-Santiago hike last June, I'll do it again now. Here are my current numbers:

Day 1: (18/5) Santander – Guëmes: 77 pilgrims, in the albergue were 70 pilgrims (the day before too!)
Day 2: (19/5) Guëmes – Laredo: 51 pilgrims, in the albergue were approx. 40 pilgrims, so almost full.
Day 3: (20/5): Laredo – Castro-Urdiales: 55 pilgrims (made several mistakes/detours and chose a guest house as I was arriving very late)
Day 4: (21/5): Castro-Urdiales – Portugalete: 61 pilgrims (I stayed in a hotel)
Day 5 (today): Portugalete-Bilbao, along the river: 18 pilgrims

I suspect that today many pilgrims took the other route to Portugalete or even the subway. Also, some days I start late, take longer breaks and walked alternative routes, so the actual number of pilgrims is almost certainly higher.

I had no problem being accepted as a "reverse pilgrim" in the albergues of Guëmes and Laredo (the nuns didn't look at my stamps at all). I usually meet most of the pilgrims around noon, which means I have the path to myself in the mornings and late afternoons, which I enjoy a lot. So far I've liked the trail better than I thought after reading about the 'Cantabrian tarmac hell', although some sections indeed were quite monotonous.

But unlike last year's Aviles-Ribadeo, I now feel like I'm constantly a lot closer to the shore. And I love walking along beaches. I am now taking a rest day in Bilbao and am looking forward to what is probably the most scenic part of the north (Bilbao-Irun). But I've heard stories about the shortage of accommodation in Deba and maybe should book in advance this time.
 
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Please continue the pilgrim counts - it gives a much better assessment of who is on each stage from your reverse prospective than from someone walking towards Santiago
 
What a great idea to count pilgrims this way. I agree with @Vacajoe that it gives a much better impression, also of waves. I found Irún - Bilbao indeed the most beautiful part of the Norte. To avoid asphalt I would recommend the coastal alternatives, but then you can probably stop counting...

Another way of counting is staying in one place. A friend of mine owns a small albergue in Pendueles on the Norte and has full house every day. But fair enough, her albergue is way more popular than the other options in the village. I am pretty sure she'll soon end up in the top-3 of most popular albergues on the Norte...
 
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estorildon said:
If you happen to cross paths with a Frenchman named Jean Pierre from Biarritz, he is a very good friend who is currently walking west in about the same area where you are currently.
Click to expand...
We know Jean Pierre! He is quickly becoming a Camino legend. Nothing better than sharing a cold drink with JP after a long day on the trail.
 
Here we are sharing a beer in Boadilla. JP wrote me this morning that he reached Santander yesterday.
 
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Camino Preparation Guide
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Thanks for your replies. It's encouraging to receive feedback!

Vacajoe said:
Please continue the pilgrim counts - it gives a much better assessment of who is on each stage from your reverse prospective than from someone walking towards Santiago
Click to expand...

I'll definitely keep counting the rest of my way. The next update will follow when I reach San Sebastian.
Luka said:
(...)To avoid asphalt I would recommend the coastal alternatives, but then you can probably stop counting... (...)
Click to expand...

I mainly chose the coastal alternatives. My impression is that many forward pilgrims do the same, especially if they don't extend the day's hike very much.
estorildon said:
If you happen to cross paths with a Frenchman named Jean Pierre from Biarritz, he is a very good friend who is currently walking west in about the same area where you are currently.
Click to expand...
estorildon said:
JP wrote me this morning that he reached Santander yesterday.
Click to expand...

Well, I rarely come into close contact with other pilgrims, except of course in the evenings in hostels. On the way I usually exchange a smile, a nod and a hello in passing. Only twice has someone said "Oh, a reverse pilgrim". On one such occasion I was told I wasn't the only one, another one was about five days ahead of me, so probably almost in Irun now.
 
I am starting tomorrow from San Sebastián, hopefully you will be counting me. See you soon and Buen Camino.
 
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AlexC said:
I am starting tomorrow from San Sebastián, hopefully you will be counting me. See you soon and Buen Camino.
Click to expand...

Hello AlexC, of course I will count you when you cross my path. Say hello if you spot me (I am 2m tall and wear a green cap with a wild boar). I am currently at the albergue of the Ziortza monastery and plan to walk to Mutriku tomorrow. If you do the usual stages you are tomorrow evening in Deba(?). So our paths might cross on Saturday morning.

By the way, here are my new counting results:

Yesterday (24/5): Bilbao - Morga (Albergue Gerekiz): I met 84 pilgrims, in the albergue were only 6.
Today (25/5): Morga - Ziortza Monastery: I met 148 pilgrims (new record!), in the albergue are 18 pilgrims, I count only 2 free beds.

My strategy is now to end my stages in between the usual stages, so that my chances for an albergue bed are better, especially when arriving late. Works so far.

By the way, I had the idea to surprise pilgrim no. 100 with a joyful outburst including a little dance à la Sara Dhooma. But no.100 turned out as grumpy old men who barely noticed me, so I thought I do the celebration for no. 150. But that number never came...
 
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I drove the Norte late last week through some driving rain storms. I felt bad for the pilgrims I saw out in that rain.

Buen Camino to you all.

Kathy
 
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Oh my...this makes me somewhat anxious! I walked the Sanabres in 2021 and it was perfect for me - I don't think I ever saw more than 10 pilgrims in a day, and mostly just a few. Some days none at all. Bliss! The idea of over 100...! It's not the thought of not getting a bed that bothers me, it's just the idea of it being crowded and not peaceful like the Sanabres was. I would never consider walking the Frances for that reason. Oh well, I knew it would be busier, I will just have to accept it is what it is and take peace where I can find it. Anyway, this time I'm walking with my son so it will be a different experience anyway I guess.
 

These numbers are for reverse-walking which is why they are so interesting. Walking towards Santiago, you may end up totally alone all day even though there are 100 pilgrims on that stage.
 
I am slow, I will be in Deba on Saturday. I am 1.5M with a green hat, a big smile and slow pace. See you soon.
Vacajoe said:
These numbers are for reverse-walking which is why they are so interesting. Walking towards Santiago, you may end up totally alone all day even though there are 100 pilgrims on that stage.
Click to expand...
I walked most of the way by myself yesterday from San Sebastián to Orio, with the exception of the last part where I had some wonderful company.
 
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estorildon said:
JP is trying to remember where this was taken. Any idea?
Click to expand...
I believe it was Carrion de Los Condes. We had a very pleasant drink on the square with JP and Thierry. Right before a foot race came through town. He provided some some good advice about the Camino and life in general. Wish we were there with you both.
 
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trecile said:
It was great meeting @Umwandert today between Markina and Bolibar!
I couldn't miss him as he walked towards me. I was pilgrim #15 today.
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It was a pleasure to meet you, @trecile. The first time ever I met someone from this forum for real! I hope, you have reached your destination safely. I needed 10 hours for Ziortza - Mutriku (32km), a real highlight stage with stunning views and lots of tricky ascents. I met 142 pilgrims, almost as many as yesterday.

In the guesthouse in Mutriku are 10 other pilgrims today. Tomorrow I'll walk to Getaria, I hope I am able to recognize @AlexC along the way. I look forward to counting him too.
 
Correct. I found a photo on line of the shop in the background of your photo that matches the storefront in Carrion.
 
FYI they have accommodation for pilgrims from Irun to SjPdP also,just follow the GR10- RedWhite markings
 
Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
I think I missed you. I am at Ibiri.
 

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AlexC said:
I think I missed you. I am at Ibiri.
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Unfortunately yes, and I think I know why: I guess you stayed on the main path but I didn't.

Yesterday (27/5) I took the coastal alternative Ruta del Flysh (fantastic views, but quite demanding) from Deba to Zumaia. On that path I met only few pilgrims but hoards of locals hiking and enjoying the fantastic weather. This time I even had to walk behind a group at times. I met 25 pilgrims till Deba, 15 on Ruta Flysh and only 1 when approaching Getaria at 7pm. So only 41 pilgrims for Mutriku-Getaria. The private albergue in Getaria (I think trecile stayed there too?) had still beds, maybe 8 people there.

Today (28/5) the count was even lower, because again I took the coastal alternative to Zarautz, where I spent the whole afternoon relaxing at the beach. I didn't see anyone for the last 5 km to Orio. Total count for Getaria-Orio: 21 pilgrims.

I think I'll count a lot more tomorrow when Orio-San Sebastian is on my schedule.
 
I am happy, I finished my camino yesterday in Irun. And here are my final numbers:

(29/5): Orio - San Sebastian: I met 111 pilgrims.
(31/5): San Sebastian - Irun via mountain route: I met 73 pilgrims.

That makes a total of 882 pilgrims I met during the last two weeks while walking in reverse from Santander to Irun:

(18/5): Santander – Guëmes: 77 pilgrims
(19/5): Guëmes – Laredo: 51 pilgrims (*)
(20/5): Laredo – Castro-Urdiales: 55 pilgrims
(21/5): Castro-Urdiales – Portugalete: 61 pilgrims
(22/5): Portugalete – Bilbao, along the river: 18 pilgrims (*)
(24/5): Bilbao – Morga (Albergue Gerekiz): I met 84 pilgrims
(25/5): Morga – Ziortza Monastery: 148 pilgrims (record number)
(26/5): Ziortza – Mutriku: 142 pilgrims
(27/5) Mutriku – Getaria via Ruta del Flysh: 41 pilgrims (*)
(28/5) Getaria – Orio: 21 pilgrims (*)
(29/5): Orio - San Sebastian: 111 pilgrims.
(31/5): San Sebastian - Irun via mountain route: 73 pilgrims (*)

(*) real numbers probably higher because I chose short distances or took alternative routes

My impression: The Norte in May is NOT crowded. I found a bed in the albergues of Guëmes, Laredo and Ziortza. Only Guëmes seemed to be full (70 people) at the end of the day. I made reservations in private albergues of Gerekiz, Getaria and Orio. There still were beds available when I checked in.

I enjoyed walking in reverse a lot and might return to the Norte next year. I still have to walk Santander - Áviles (or Áviles - Santander?) in order to complete this camino. I did Áviles - Santiago already last May/June. Maybe I'll combine my next camino with the Lebaniego/Vadiniense or the San Salvador (in reverse). Thanks for reading!
 
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