Considering Portugueses but confused about routes

[Stefania13/14]

Hi to all who hike the Portugues Camino and those considering it!
I have been reading many great comments but when reading the town to town descriptions of routes people have taken I get confused about the "Interior" and "Coastal" routes. I do understand that many who walk the coastal "cut over" to the interior at different spots along the way. Can someone identify for me which towns are in which routes? Also are there more than 2 routes? Also do Brierly/CSJ show both routes or what?
This looks like a great camino and I would like to consider it if I understand better.
Thanks for any help!
Stefania

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Stefania,
For starters, the CSJ guide only shows the interior route. The coastal options are north of Porto, so from Lisbon to Porto you don't have choices, unless you want to detour to Fatima. I've only walked the interior route, but my understanding is that you can head to the coast from Porto and then take the coastal route as far north as Vigo, where you will then head east and join up with the interior route in Redondela. There are lots of options for heading back inland and joining the interior route. I think that the best map, showing all the options, is here: http://www.caminador.es/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/RELIEVE-PORTO-REDONDELA-IMPr.pdf

I've heard nothing but great things about the coastal route, so it's now on my very long list of "Caminos I would love to walk." Buen camino, Laurie

 

[MichaelSG]

Hi to all who hike the Portugues Camino and those considering it!
I have been reading many great comments but when reading the town to town descriptions of routes people have taken I get confused about the "Interior" and "Coastal" routes. I do understand that many who walk the coastal "cut over" to the interior at different spots along the way. Can someone identify for me which towns are in which routes? Also are there more than 2 routes? Also do Brierly/CSJ show both routes or what?
This looks like a great camino and I would like to consider it if I understand better.
Thanks for any help!
Stefania

Hi Stefania, I was also confused by all the options before our September walk from Lisbon. I aimed to do the "most historic", "most 'popular'" but avoiding what I heard was the dangerous walk along the roads out of Porto. In the end, we were quite happy with the walk we did. We followed arrows as best as possible from Lisbon to Porto. Out of Porto, we chose to walk to Matosinhos just using a map(a 2-3 hour walk from Porto), then cross over the bridge walk to the coast along the road or boardwalk, again using more map than arrows, up to Vila do Conde (a one day walk from Matosinhos). From VdC, we were able to follow arrows up to Rates where we rejoined the more traditional route out of Porto. From there, it was up to Barcelos, Port de Lima, Rubiaes, Valenca, Tui, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldes de Reis, Padron, Santiago. There is a link below from my blog that describes that walk.

Finally, one thing I learned from this walk was that I worried less about following exactly every arrow. When I walked the French route in 2012, I was keen to be on every single step of the "real" Caminho. This time, I didn't exactly look for shortcuts but if I realized I wasn't on the arrows, or more likely just couldn't find them, I just used google maps or common sense to find my way to where I wanted to be.

 

[anniethenurse]

@Stefania13/14
I have walked the coastal twice this year so if you have any questions, please let me know.
Buen camino

 

[Former member 22438]

Olá Stefania !
Please take your map and follow the coastal and interior route :

The route starts in Porto at the Sé cathedral. Walk along the river Douro and the Atlantic Ocean to Matosinhos and northwards on to Vila do Conde. Keep the ocean at your left side. There you have two options. Walk the interior to São Pedro de Rates and Barcelos on to Ponte de Lima, Rubiaes, Valença do Minho/Tui, o Porriño, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis ,Padrón to Santiago. Or head for the coast to Póvoa da Varzím, Esposende, Viana do Castelo , Vila Nova d'Âncora to Caminha. Here you have the option to merge in the interior by walking to Vila Nova de Cedreira to Valença/Tui. Or take the ferryboat/boat taxi to a Guarda from Caminha and walk on to Oia, Baiona, Vigo to Redondela alongside the Atlantic coast and pick up the interior route to o Porriño and on as described above to Santiago.

In Porto starts the the original interior route to Vilarinho and on to São Pedro de Rates ,Barcelos etc. But here you walk through a very busy area north of Porto alongside busy motorways so highly advised is to walk directly to the coast to Matosinhos. This part John Brierley describes in his guide as the coastal detour out of Porto.
Complicated ? No. Just look on your map and you'll see the different routes,all leading to Santiago de Compostela.

Bom caminho.

 

[Former member 22438]

Hi Stefania, I was also confused by all the options before our September walk from Lisbon. I aimed to do the "most historic", "most 'popular'" but avoiding what I heard was the dangerous walk along the roads out of Porto. In the end, we were quite happy with the walk we did. We followed arrows as best as possible from Lisbon to Porto. Out of Porto, we chose to walk to Matosinhos just using a map(a 2-3 hour walk from Porto), then cross over the bridge walk to the coast along the road or boardwalk, again using more map than arrows, up to Vila do Conde (a one day walk from Matosinhos). From VdC, we were able to follow arrows up to Rates where we rejoined the more traditional route out of Porto. From there, it was up to Barcelos, Port de Lima, Rubiaes, Valenca, Tui, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldes de Reis, Padron, Santiago. There is a link below from my blog that describes that walk.

Finally, one thing I learned from this walk was that I worried less about following exactly every arrow. When I walked the French route in 2012, I was keen to be on every single step of the "real" Caminho. This time, I didn't exactly look for shortcuts but if I realized I wasn't on the arrows, or more likely just couldn't find them, I just used google maps or common sense to find my way to where I wanted to be.

The Coastal detour from Porto Sé cathedral to Matosinhos Mercado where the bridge is over the Leixoes harbour is 10 kms .From there along the Atlantic coast boardwalk it is 20 kms to Vila do Conde. From there you can access the interior route by walking to São Pedro de Rates or walk on along the Atlantic coast to Póvoa da Varzím and Esposende what they call the coastal route .

I can imagine it is all very confusing but this comes because of John Brierley's guide who talks about the coastal route which is only this 30 kms from Porto plus the about 14 kms to São Pedro de Rates... The green dotted route on his guide map.
The real Coastal route via Esposende ,Caminha ,Vigo and Redondela is about 250 kms to Santiago.
My wife and I are going to walk the real Coastal next year May

Bom caminho e um abraço disso lado do mundo.

Albertinho

 

[Stefania13/14]

Hi, Stefania,
For starters, the CSJ guide only shows the interior route. The coastal options are north of Porto, so from Lisbon to Porto you don't have choices, unless you want to detour to Fatima. I've only walked the interior route, but my understanding is that you can head to the coast from Porto and then take the coastal route as far north as Vigo, where you will then head east and join up with the interior route in Redondela. There are lots of options for heading back inland and joining the interior route. I think that the best map, showing all the options, is here: http://www.caminador.es/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/RELIEVE-PORTO-REDONDELA-IMPr.pdf

I've heard nothing but great things about the coastal route, so it's now on my very long list of "Caminos I would love to walk." Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks so much for your comments. Now that I look at that map carefully is see there are several possible routes but the Caminho Central (blue route) is the "Inland". I have a friend who might want to walk this with me but she is worried about walking on roads (knee troubles). Can you walk the Central/Inland route from Porto to Santiago without hitting lots of paved roads? Also she might want to stay in pensions or CRs is it possible to do on the Central/inland with moderate distances most days?
Thanks again.
Stefania

 

[Stefania13/14]

Hi Stefania, I was also confused by all the options before our September walk from Lisbon. I aimed to do the "most historic", "most 'popular'" but avoiding what I heard was the dangerous walk along the roads out of Porto. In the end, we were quite happy with the walk we did. We followed arrows as best as possible from Lisbon to Porto. Out of Porto, we chose to walk to Matosinhos just using a map(a 2-3 hour walk from Porto), then cross over the bridge walk to the coast along the road or boardwalk, again using more map than arrows, up to Vila do Conde (a one day walk from Matosinhos). From VdC, we were able to follow arrows up to Rates where we rejoined the more traditional route out of Porto. From there, it was up to Barcelos, Port de Lima, Rubiaes, Valenca, Tui, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldes de Reis, Padron, Santiago. There is a link below from my blog that describes that walk.

Finally, one thing I learned from this walk was that I worried less about following exactly every arrow. When I walked the French route in 2012, I was keen to be on every single step of the "real" Caminho. This time, I didn't exactly look for shortcuts but if I realized I wasn't on the arrows, or more likely just couldn't find them, I just used google maps or common sense to find my way to where I wanted to be.

Michael: Thanks so much for the detailed description. This sounds really good to me. Using the map Laurie had in her link makes that very clear. Much appreciated.
Stefania

 

[Stefania13/14]

Olá Stenania !
Please take your map and follow the coastal and interior route :

The route starts in Porto at the Sé cathedral. Walk along the river Douro and the Atlantic Ocean to Matosinhos and northwards on to Vila do Conde. Keep the ocean at your left side. There you have two options. Walk the interior to São Pedro de Rates and Barcelos on to Ponte de Lima, Rubiaes, Valença do Minho/Tui, o Porriño, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis ,Padrón to Santiago. Or head for the coast to Póvoa da Varzím, Esposende, Viana do Castelo , Vila Nova d'Âncora to Caminha. Here you have the option to merge in the interior by walking to Vila Nova de Cedreira to Valença/Tui. Or take the ferryboat/boat taxi to a Guarda from Caminha and walk on to Oia, Baiona, Vigo to Redondela alongside the Atlantic coast and pick up the interior route to o Porriño and on as described above to Santiago.

In Porto starts the the original interior route to Vilarinho and on to São Pedro de Rates ,Barcelos etc. But here you walk through a very busy area north of Porto alingside busy mitorways so highly advised is to walk directly to the coast to Matosinhos. This part John Brierley descibes in his guide as the coastal detour out of Porto.
Complicated ? No. Just look on your map and you'll see the different routes,all leading to Santiago de Compostela.

Bom caminho.

Thanks so much Albertinho,
You and others responding to my question have just been great! Your details also help a bunch. I feel much more confident now than yesterday ; ) Since you used Brierley did you find it helpful besides the map portion? I have a friend that might want to walk this with me and she would want to stay in CRs or pensions not albergues - is it possible on the route you described?
Stefania

 

[Stefania13/14]

@Stefania13/14
I have walked the coastal twice this year so if you have any questions, please let me know.
Buen camino

Thanks Annie,
When did you walk and what was the weather like? Also did you meet many pilgrims along the way? I don't mind walking alone but I like to visit with people at the end of the day.
Stefania

 

[MichaelSG]

Thanks so much Albertinho,
You and others responding to my question have just been great! Your details also help a bunch. I feel much more confident now than yesterday ; ) Since you used Brierley did you find it helpful besides the map portion? I have a friend that might want to walk this with me and she would want to stay in CRs or pensions not albergues - is it possible on the route you described?
Stefania

Are you thinking of starting from Porto, Lisbon or some other city? South of Porto, it's easy to stay out of hostels / albergues if you want to but the few there are before Porto, like in Santarem and Tomar, they also have private rooms in addition to dorms. North of Porto, of the cities I stopped at, we only stayed in albergues in Rubiaes and Redondela. There might be a B&B in Redondela but we didn't look. If I recall correctly, with prior reservations, there was a small / popular B&B just before Rubiaes that could keep you out of their albergues. Most B&Bs / pensions / hotels / motels we paid 25-35 euros for a double room. That would usually be en-suite, most times with wi-fi, sometimes with laundry, occasionally with breakfast but always with a good story or entertainment. Buen Camino!

 

[Former member 22438]

Thanks so much Albertinho,
You and others responding to my question have just been great! Your details also help a bunch. I feel much more confident now than yesterday ; ) Since you used Brierley did you find it helpful besides the map portion? I have a friend that might want to walk this with me and she would want to stay in CRs or pensions not albergues - is it possible on the route you described?
Stefania

Stefania. We used the complete Brierley guide for sideinformation and addresses to sleep. We found it very useful.

If you read back a while on this forum you will find all the info of the entire caminho we walked from Lisbon to Santiago aswell from Claudia aka Amorfati1
Only one and a half month ago we wrote this information down. I shal see if I find it back easily

 

[Former member 22438]

Stefania go back on this forum to july 20th and read about all the places Claudia stayed and my wife and I too on this thread !


Places I stayed May 2 - 28, 2014 on Caminho Portuguese - (w/ images part I)
Discussion in 'Camino Portuguese albergues, pensions and hostals' started by amorfati1, Jul 20, 2014.

Sorry I copyed the head of the thread with fat printed letters and do not know how to change that. It is not an expression of my "meaning"

 

[saltwaterpearl]

Hi, Stefania,
For starters, the CSJ guide only shows the interior route. The coastal options are north of Porto, so from Lisbon to Porto you don't have choices, unless you want to detour to Fatima. I've only walked the interior route, but my understanding is that you can head to the coast from Porto and then take the coastal route as far north as Vigo, where you will then head east and join up with the interior route in Redondela. There are lots of options for heading back inland and joining the interior route. I think that the best map, showing all the options, is here: http://www.caminador.es/wp-content/uploads/2009/06/RELIEVE-PORTO-REDONDELA-IMPr.pdf

I've heard nothing but great things about the coastal route, so it's now on my very long list of "Caminos I would love to walk." Buen camino, Laurie

Thanks for the map, Laurie!

But I'm confused..... On the map, there is the Senda da Orla Litoral (in green) and the Caminha da Costa (in red).

They overlap occasionally, but seem to be distinct routes most of the time?
When they don't overlap, the Senda Litoral is closer to the coast than the Caminha da Costa.

Also, the Senda Litoral goes through Matosinhos outside of Porto on the way to Vila do Conde, like I understood the Coastal Camino would.....
but the Caminha da Costa on the map does NOT go through Matosinhos.

Is the Senda da Orla Litoral actually the Coastal Camino we're discussing here?
Also, are the Senda da Orla Litoral and the Caminha da Costa both clearly and distinctly waymarked from Porto to Redondela?

 

[Former member 22438]

Thanks for the map, Laurie!

But I'm confused..... On the map, there is the Senda da Orla Litoral (in green) and the Caminha da Costa (in red).

They overlap occasionally, but seem to be distinct routes most of the time?
When they don't overlap, the Senda Litoral is closer to the coast than the Caminha da Costa.

Also, the Senda Litoral goes through Matosinhos outside of Porto on the way to Vila do Conde, like I understood the Coastal Camino would.....
but the Caminha da Costa on the map does NOT go through Matosinhos.

Is the Senda da Orla Litoral actually the Coastal Camino we're discussing here?
Also, are the Senda da Orla Litoral and the Caminha da Costa both clearly and distinctly waymarked from Porto to Redondela?

It is a bit confusing on the map but the way out of Porto by the detour as written down by John Brierley is the green dotted line. From Porto center (Sé Cathedral) walk to the riverside and head southwards untill you arrive at the end of the river where it flows into the ocean Follow the boardwalk alongside the ocean (at your left side and you will arrive in Matosinhos. Follow the yellow waymarks untill you arrive at metrostop Mercado and the bridge over the Porto Harbour
Walk over the bridge and go to the left. After some hundreds of meters you'll see the ocean again and keep this to the left untill you will arrive nearby Vila do Conde.follow the yellow waymarks untill you arrive at the bridge in Vila do Conde.
There go over the bridge and walk to the right. Follow the waymarkers direction São Pedro de Rates and you are on the interior route

The red dotted line out of Porto is described in Brierley's guide as far as Maia .on the map it bends to Vila do Conde while the interior route goes on to Vilarinho and on to São Pedro.desadvantage of this route is that you walk along side of very busy roads and further on on cobblestones.I did not walk this but drove it with my car and this is a very unpleasant part to walk.
Highly recommended to follow the green dotted line.
Alternative is to take the metro from Porto to Matosinhos Mercado and start from there to walk over the bridge.

 

[anniethenurse]

Thanks Annie,
When did you walk and what was the weather like? Also did you meet many pilgrims along the way? I don't mind walking alone but I like to visit with people at the end of the day.
Stefania

Hola @Stefania13/14 ,

The one and only guide I used is written by Mr Luis Freixo (www.caminador.es). I also used google maps occasionally
Below you can see my caminos and the name of the cities where I stayed for night.
The colours refer to the different colours the different routes are marked with in Mr Freixo´s online guide.

The first time was in May, 2014 when I started from Porto Sé Cathedral and walked :
the Coastal Route/ Senda Litoral to Matosinhos, Vila do Conde, Apulia, Viana do Castelo, Caminha(Portugal).
the Central/ Historical/ Inland Route to Tui(Spain), Mos, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Teo, Santiago.

The second time was in September 2014
the Coastal Route/ Senda Litoral Viana de Castelo (Portugal), A Guarda (Spain), Mougas, A Ramallosa, Vigo.
the Central Route Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Padron, Santiago.

The weather was great most days - no need for rain gear when I was walking but I can imagine the conditions are guite different if it rains and a cold wind is blowing hard from the Atlantic ocean.

You will be walking alone most likely but if you stay in the albergues you will meet other pilgrims in the evenings.
I like this route and will be walking again next year from Lisbon to Porto and then the coastal all the way to Padron and Santiago.

Buen camino

 

[anniethenurse]

Thanks for the map, Laurie!

But I'm confused..... On the map, there is the Senda da Orla Litoral (in green) and the Caminha da Costa (in red).

They overlap occasionally, but seem to be distinct routes most of the time?
When they don't overlap, the Senda Litoral is closer to the coast than the Caminha da Costa.

Also, the Senda Litoral goes through Matosinhos outside of Porto on the way to Vila do Conde, like I understood the Coastal Camino would.....
but the Caminha da Costa on the map does NOT go through Matosinhos.

Is the Senda da Orla Litoral actually the Coastal Camino we're discussing here?
Also, are the Senda da Orla Litoral and the Caminha da Costa both clearly and distinctly waymarked from Porto to Redondela?

Correct Senda (=path)Litoral (=coast) is closest to the coast line some times on tarmac, board walks, narrow paths.

The Coastal Camino takes you a couple of kilometres inland sometimes through the villages, farm land, river sides, eucalyptus forrests but the Atlantic Ocean will always be close to you and always on your left which ever camino you choose.

Colours are refering to the map @peregrina2000 is talking about and to the guide I am using.

The best camino is a mixture of Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route or maybe you prefer the Central Route? I have not walked the Central Route south of Valenca.

In Caminha which is the last coastal city in Portugal on the coast line you have to make you choice:
1) following the river Minho to Valenca and Tui in Spain to the Central Route.
2) a ferry boat/ fisherman´s boat over to Spain and continue on the Coastal Route and join the Central Route in Redondela (85 km before Sdc) or Padron (25 km before SDC).

Buen camino

 

[anniethenurse]

Accomodation between Porto and Redondela all routes (thank you Mr Freixo).
Of course there are also many hotels, hostals and other accomodation all along the route. not mentioned here:

 

[Former member 22438]

Hola @Stefania13/14 ,

The one and only guide I used is written by Mr Luis Freixo (www.caminador.es). I also used google maps occasionally
Below you can see my caminos and the name of the cities where I stayed for night.
The colours refer to the different colours the different routes are marked with in Mr Freixo´s online guide.

The first time was in May, 2014 when I started from Porto Sé Cathedral and walked :
the Coastal route/ Senda Litoral to Matosinhos, Vila do Conde, Apulia, Viana do Castelo, Caminha(Portugal).
the Central/ Historical/ Inland Route to Tui(Spain), Mos, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Teo, Santiago.

The second time was in September 2014
the coastal route/ Senda Littoral Viana de Castelo (Portugal), A Guarda (Spain), Mougas, A Ramallosa, Vigo.
the central route Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Padron, Santiago.

The weather was great most days - no need for rain gear when I was walking but I can imagine the conditions are guite different if it rains and a cold wind is blowing hard from the Atlantic ocean.

You will be walking alone most likely but if you stay in the albergues you will meet other pilgrims in the evenings.
I like this route and will be walking again next year from Lisbon to Porto and then the coastal all the way to Padron and Santiago.

Buen camino

This is excellent information if you want to walk all the way along the coast Annie .

 

[anniethenurse]

The coastal camino in Brierley´s guide is actually only one etapa - from Porto Sé Cathedral to Vila do Conde and then back to the Central Route.
In mr Freixo´s guide the same etapa is the first etapa on Senda Litoral.

Quite many pilgrims were walking to Vila do Conde and then following their guide books back to the Central Route.

 

[Former member 22438]

Accomodation between Porto and Redondela all routes (thank you Mr Freixo).
Of course there are also many hotels, hostals and other accomodation all along the route. not mentioned here:
View attachment 14805

This is what I need myself for our next caminho, following that route.
Många tack .

 

[anniethenurse]

Is the Senda da Orla Litoral actually the Coastal Camino we're discussing here?
Also, are the Senda da Orla Litoral and the Caminha da Costa both clearly and distinctly waymarked from Porto to Redondela?

As you already might know the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route are not the same but two different routes the Senda (=mening path) Litoral (=coast) following closest to the coast line. So sometimes you are on the Senda and sometimes on the Coastal Route.

And yes, the route is well marked but sometimes you might be on the Senda and sometimes on the Coastal and not for the time knowing on which. But you are walking to the right direction and suddenly when you need to see an arrow VOILA there you see it

Buen camino

 

[MichaelSG]

Stefania, good luck. I'm starting to get confused again myself and I already walked the route!

 

[saltwaterpearl]

As you already might know the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route are not the same but two different routes the Senda (=mening path) Litoral (=coast) following closest to the coast line. So sometimes you are on the Senda and sometimes on the Coastal Route.

And yes, the route is well marked but sometimes you might be on the Senda and sometimes on the Coastal and not for the time knowing on which. But you are walking to the right direction and suddenly when you need to see an arrow VOILA there you see it

Buen camino

Thanks for all the great info, Annie!

So it seems that the the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route are well waymarked, but not necessarily distinctly waymarked as separate routes? So when we leave our accomodation in the morning and start following that first yellow arrow we find, we may end up on either route..... but it doesn't matter?

It seems from what you're saying (and by looking at the map Laurie posted) that the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route come together at the main points of accomodation anyway?

My other issues is that we will be walking the route in reverse. Our main camino is the Norte/Salvador/Primitivo/Fistera-Muxia. But we are in Spain for 3 months and fly out of Lisbon. Given the time to do so, we hope to walk from Santiago to Porto, before bussing to Lisbon for our flight home.

Can anyone comment on walking the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route in reverse (or, for the matter, the Central/Interior route in reverse)?
I expect we'll walk from Santiago to Redondela, and then make up our mind then as to whether to head towards Vigo or Tui from there.

 

[peregrina2000]

I think that walking almost any camino " in reverse" or " backwards" is likely to be very challenging and frustrating. There are a few exceptions, like wherever that blue circle with arrow at the end is (maybe somewhere on the Norte?) or if you can find a route marked to Fatima on one of these Portuguese routes. But the arrows are generally marked in only one direction and their visibility is calculated to be there for those walking to, not from, Santiago. I recall that Margaret ( ms path, who is currently walking the Frances) tried walking the Portugues in reverse and had a hard time.

I don't mean to be negative but honestly I think you would spend more time looking for arrows than walking.

 

[Stefania13/14]

Hola @Stefania13/14 ,

The one and only guide I used is written by Mr Luis Freixo (www.caminador.es). I also used google maps occasionally
Below you can see my caminos and the name of the cities where I stayed for night.
The colours refer to the different colours the different routes are marked with in Mr Freixo´s online guide.

The first time was in May, 2014 when I started from Porto Sé Cathedral and walked :
the Coastal Route/ Senda Litoral to Matosinhos, Vila do Conde, Apulia, Viana do Castelo, Caminha(Portugal).
the Central/ Historical/ Inland Route to Tui(Spain), Mos, Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Teo, Santiago.

The second time was in September 2014
the Coastal Route/ Senda Litoral Viana de Castelo (Portugal), A Guarda (Spain), Mougas, A Ramallosa, Vigo.
the Central Route Redondela, Pontevedra, Caldas de Reis, Padron, Santiago.

The weather was great most days - no need for rain gear when I was walking but I can imagine the conditions are guite different if it rains and a cold wind is blowing hard from the Atlantic ocean.

You will be walking alone most likely but if you stay in the albergues you will meet other pilgrims in the evenings.
I like this route and will be walking again next year from Lisbon to Porto and then the coastal all the way to Padron and Santiago.

Buen camino

Thank you so much Annie,
I was thinking of late most of September 2015 and starting out in Porto as you did in May. It looks like 12 days of walking to Santiago and I am not speedy so maybe 14 if I breakup 2 long days into 4. I thought about doing the Finisterra/Muxia route with that. However, what do you think the Lisbon to Porto portion will take? If I start in Lisbon and end in Santiago (not going on to Finisterra, etc.) it looks like I could do that in about 3.5 - 4 weeks. Is that reasonable? Which did you prefer May or September?
Stefania

 

[Stefania13/14]

Stefania. We used the complete Brierley guide for sideinformation and addresses to sleep. We found it very useful.

If you read back a while on this forum you will find all the info of the entire caminho we walked from Lisbon to Santiago aswell from Claudia aka Amorfati1
Only one and a half month ago we wrote this information down. I shal see if I find it back easily

Thanks Albertinho. I will start looking back for that info.
Stefania

 

[Former member 22438]

Thanks for all the great info, Annie!

So it seems that the the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route are well waymarked, but not necessarily distinctly waymarked as separate routes? So when we leave our accomodation in the morning and start following that first yellow arrow we find, we may end up on either route..... but it doesn't matter?

It seems from what you're saying (and by looking at the map Laurie posted) that the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route come together at the main points of accomodation anyway?

My other issues is that we will be walking the route in reverse. Our main camino is the Norte/Salvador/Primitivo/Fistera-Muxia. But we are in Spain for 3 months and fly out of Lisbon. Given the time to do so, we hope to walk from Santiago to Porto, before bussing to Lisbon for our flight home.

Can anyone comment on walking the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route in reverse (or, for the matter, the Central/Interior route in reverse)?
I expect we'll walk from Santiago to Redondela, and then make up our mind then as to whether to head towards Vigo or Tui from there.

Walking from Vigo is the easiest way. Keep the Atlantic at your right all the way and you'll end up in Porto.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Walking from Vigo is the easiest way. Keep the Atlantic at your right all the way and you'll end up in Porto.

RIGHT?!?!?

 

[Former member 22438]

RIGHT?!?!?

You agree with me Stephen or is it the right side ?

 

[danielc]

Hi to all who hike the Portugues Camino and those considering it!
I have been reading many great comments but when reading the town to town descriptions of routes people have taken I get confused about the "Interior" and "Coastal" routes. I do understand that many who walk the coastal "cut over" to the interior at different spots along the way. Can someone identify for me which towns are in which routes? Also are there more than 2 routes? Also do Brierly/CSJ show both routes or what?
This looks like a great camino and I would like to consider it if I understand better.
Thanks for any help!
Stefania

Hi Stefania just back from the Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago. Travelled by metro from Porto to Matosinhos then took the coastal route to Vila De Conde. Stayed in Vila De Conde and the next day got a taxi to Rates, joined the interior route, and proceeded to Barcelos. The reason for the taxi is the way marking is poor and the road is very busy from Vila De Conde to Rates, and I needed the yellow arrows.

The other stage with a problem seems to be between Tui and Redondela the area Porrino appears to be an industrial area and an alternative is suggested by the river. However it seems some problems exist with the confusion of the way markers or yellow markers on the alternative route. My solution we got a taxi from Tui to the alberque in Porrino, sharing the taxi with three others, cost 5€ each. Also between Rates and Barcelos at Pedra Furada call to Antonio’s café/restaurant, he will give an alternative route to avoid the busy road section before Barcelos

However overall this is a wonderful trip, which I would strongly recommend it.

 

[MichaelSG]

You agree with me Stephen or is it the right side ?

The ocean will be on the right if you are heading south. Most people prefer to walk from Lisbon or Porto to Santiago the shorter way by heading north. It avoids having to walk past the poles.

 

[MichaelSG]

Hi Stefania just back from the Portuguese Camino from Porto to Santiago. Travelled by metro from Porto to Matosinhos then took the coastal route to Vila De Conde. Stayed in Vila De Conde and the next day got a taxi to Rates, joined the interior route, and proceeded to Barcelos. The reason for the taxi is the way marking is poor and the road is very busy from Vila De Conde to Rates, and I needed the yellow arrows.

The other stage with a problem seems to be between Tui and Redondela the area Porrino appears to be an industrial area and an alternative is suggested by the river. However it seems some problems exist with the confusion of the way markers or yellow markers on the alternative route. My solution we got a taxi from Tui to the alberque in Porrino, sharing the taxi with three others, cost 5€ each. Also between Rates and Barcelos at Pedra Furada call to Antonio’s café/restaurant, he will give an alternative route to avoid the busy road section before Barcelos

However overall this is a wonderful trip, which I would strongly recommend it.

Wow, I had plenty of problems following arrows south of Porto but very, very little trouble north of it. I'm sorry that you had trouble or concerns but I found it easy to walk to Matosinhos, Vila de Conde to Rates and the new route bypassing the industrial area O Porrino.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

You agree with me Stephen or is it the right side ?

Well .... you know me, Albertinho! I looked at a map and saw Vigo on the coast, and Porto almost directly east of Vigo.
I'd have thought that walking from Vigo to Porto you wouldn't see the Atlantic at all - it's behind you!
But you know that Gill [my wife] knows my poor sense of direction. Every time I walk to Santiago, she thinks I'll end up in Morocco!

 

[t2andreo]

RIGHT?!?!?

This is the direction for someone walking the Camino in reverse, north to south. The Atlantic Ocean would logically be on their right.

 

[anniethenurse]

Thanks for all the great info, Annie!

My other issues is that we will be walking the route in reverse. Our main camino is the Norte/Salvador/Primitivo/Fistera-Muxia. But we are in Spain for 3 months and fly out of Lisbon. Given the time to do so, we hope to walk from Santiago to Porto, before bussing to Lisbon for our flight home.

Can anyone comment on walking the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route in reverse (or, for the matter, the Central/Interior route in reverse)?
I expect we'll walk from Santiago to Redondela, and then make up our mind then as to whether to head towards Vigo or Tui from there.

It is possible to walk in reverse but more challenging. Doable if you have good maps.
Look at the Mr Freixo´s webpage - further down the page there are detailed maps on the Portugues routes. Print them or open them (pdf) in your Kindle or iPad.

Actually I met a Hungarian guy who walked from Budapest to SDC and all the way to Lisbon.
Met also and had dinner with a young guy who walked first with his mother on the camino Frances and then continued south on the camino Portugues (coastal) to Porto and to Lisbon. He used the maps on mr Freixo´s webpage opened them in Adobe in his iPhone.

I cannot explain how to find the path from Redondela towards Vigo. It is called Senda da Auga and if you find it up on the hills you will easily walk to Vigo.
In Redondela you could stay at the private albergue on c/ Telmo Bernadez, 11 just behind the Municipal and ask the owner Rosie and her husband for more info. Maybe you can contact mr Freixo also and stay at his refugio south of Vigo.

Buen camino.

 

[anniethenurse]

Thank you so much Annie,
I was thinking of late most of September 2015 and starting out in Porto as you did in May. It looks like 12 days of walking to Santiago and I am not speedy so maybe 14 if I breakup 2 long days into 4. I thought about doing the Finisterra/Muxia route with that. However, what do you think the Lisbon to Porto portion will take? If I start in Lisbon and end in Santiago (not going on to Finisterra, etc.) it looks like I could do that in about 3.5 - 4 weeks. Is that reasonable? Which did you prefer May or September?
Stefania

According to Brierley it is 620 km between Lisbon and SDC according to Brierley 23 etapas.
Porto - SDC doable in 10-12 walking days.

I will be walking from Lisbon (the Cathedral in Lisbon) to Porto on the Central Route with J. Brierley and then The Coastal / Senda Litoral again to SDC next May and allow at least 24 walking days.

May or September?
Both are low season and both were great. I was very lucky with the beautiful weather both times.

Buen camino

 

[Stefania13/14]

According to Brierley it is 620 km between Lisbon and SDC according to Brierley 23 etapas.
Porto - SDC doable in 10-12 walking days.

I will be walking from Lisbon (the Cathedral in Lisbon) to Porto on the Central Route with J. Brierley and then The Coastal / Senda Litoral again to SDC next May and allow at least 24 walking days.

May or September?
Both are low season and both were great. I was very lucky with the beautiful weather both times.

Buen camino

Sounds great Annie. Thaks for all your information.
Buen Camino

 

[Former member 22438]

Saw the new Brierley "maps " guide been advertised on Amazon.com and it now shows the "Coastal"routo to Vigo and Redondela too.
I ordered this new guide last week.

But sent it back after receiving. Only on the cover it shows a green dotted line, being the caminho da Costa but in theside the booklet there is nothing about it. Some disappointment.

 

[Dutch]

@Stefania13/14
I have walked the coastal twice this year so if you have any questions, please let me know.
Buen camino

Annie, in which months did you walk the coastal route and how busy was it, compared to the inland route (if you know)?

Thnx

 

[musicman]

https://ensuitepilgrimblog.wordpress.com/

In the Back pages of the Blog, you will find descriptions of a small, group walk along the Coast from lisbon to Porto.
Also, my solo Coastal Caminho from Oporto to S de C.
I have a spreadsheet for the latter, if it is of any interest.
Best wishes for whichever way you go.

 

[anniethenurse]

Annie, in which months did you walk the coastal route and how busy was it, compared to the inland route (if you know)?

Thnx

Hola Dutch,

I walked it May 2 - May 13, 2014 when I started from the cathedral in Porto.
There were some other pilgrims the first days but they all walked back to the central route from Vila do Conde. I continued alone on the coastal and met two other pilgrims in the albergue in Vila do Conde. We walked together to Caminha and Tui. Lots of pilgrims on the Central route between Tui and SDC.

Waked also in September 3 - September 13 when I started from Viana do Castelo and walked on the Spanish side to Redondela - this time some more pilgrims en route.

Both times great weather mostly sun and some rain.

The central route is much busier.

 

[Dutch]

Hi Annie,

Thanks for the reply.

I started on may 5th last year from the Cathedral in Porto. I walked inland on day one. Brrrrr. That wasn't nice at all. The rest was very nice

I enjoy it when there's lots of pilgrims around in the city/villages you stop. Thats why still undecided if the coastal route is the way to go this year in may.

 

[Former member 22438]

Hi Annie,

Thanks for the reply.

I started on may 5th last year from the Cathedral in Porto. I walked inland on day one. Brrrrr. That wasn't nice at all. The rest was very nice

I enjoy it when there's lots of pilgrims around in the city/villages you stop. Thats why still undecided if the coastal route is the way to go this year in may.

In May 2014 we were in the area between Viana do Castelo and A Guarda for about ten days, camping in Vila Praia de Āncora close by Caminha and only met a couple of pilgrims so if you like "de gezelligheid " and socializing, better walk the central route and stay overnight at casa da Fernanda in Vitorino dosPiães.

 

[Utgaard]

I walked a combination of the Coastal, Senda Litoral, and interior routes in May/June, 2014. The Coastal and Senda Litoral were done using the maps by Mr. Freixo. My stops were Vila do Conde, Esposende, Viana do Castelo, Caminha, then to Valenca and continued on the main interior route to Santiago. I carried the Brierley guide, but found it to be of very little use.

The arrows in the Viana district were plentiful and easy to follow. It was much trickier in other places.

I met some pilgrims on the first day, but they all turned inland and went to Rates. The albergue host in Caminha said there was a big group of people a day ahead of me, but I walked alone from Vila do Conde to Valenca.

You have plenty of options with the Portuguese route north of Porto and each has something special to offer. I enjoyed mixing routes, but it certainly isn't for everyone.

 

[ourgirl]

I walked a combination of the Coastal, Senda Litoral, and interior routes in May/June, 2014. The Coastal and Senda Litoral were done using the maps by Mr. Freixo. My stops were Vila do Conde, Esposende, Viana do Castelo, Caminha, then to Valenca and continued on the main interior route to Santiago. I carried the Brierley guide, but found it to be of very little use.

The arrows in the Viana district were plentiful and easy to follow. It was much trickier in other places.

I met some pilgrims on the first day, but they all turned inland and went to Rates. The albergue host in Caminha said there was a big group of people a day ahead of me, but I walked alone from Vila do Conde to Valenca.

You have plenty of options with the Portuguese route north of Porto and each has something special to offer. I enjoyed mixing routes, but it certainly isn't for everyone.

I'm intending to do the same—two questions:
1.How many miles/how long did it take to walk from Caminha to Valenca and what was the route like?

2. Did you book ahead? I'd like to keep my options open and not book ahead, but I recognize that these are coastal towns and they make book up quickly if the weather is good. I'm planning on traveling the same time of year that you did.

 

[anniethenurse]

@ourgirl
Caminha to Valenca is about 30 km.
Can be done in 2 days - there is an albergue in Vila Nova de Ceiveira.



Buen camino.

 

[ourgirl]

@ourgirl
Caminha to Valenca is about 30 km.
Can be done in 2 days - there is an albergue in Vila Nova de Ceiveira.



Buen camino.

Good to know. I was considering possibly taking the train, if going this way—since the last 100km starts in Tui, this way. Still debating...

What is the ability to get water/food supplies when traveling up from A Guarda, Oia, and Baiona? Looking at google maps, it doesn't show much avails to refill with water, if necessary...

 

[Utgaard]

I never had any trouble finding water in Portugal, there were fountains in just about every neighborhood.

I walked from Caminha to Valenca in one day. I stopped at a grocery in Vila Nova de Ceiveira for lunch and got into the albergue in Valenca probably around 5pm. This day did go up and down a bit more than the others and I stopped for a couple of long breaks. It was a good walk. There were nice views across the river to Spain, walks through arbors, fields, and residential. The path was well marked, but I did lose the marks in Vila Nova (in full disclosure, I pretty much lost them in every city I walked through). If I did it again, I would probably stop in Vila Nova.

I didn't book ahead and had no problems finding places to stay, but I was in albergues. Late May was still outside of tourist season.

 

[anniethenurse]

Not that many fountains on the coastal route (between A Guarda- Oia-Baiona-Vigo-Redondela) than on the Central route. But there are many villages with small stores, cafees, restaurants, hotels, service stations. No problem at all.

 

[ourgirl]

Not that many fountains on the coastal route (between A Guarda- Oia-Baiona-Vigo-Redondela) than on the Central route. But there are many villages with small stores, cafees, restaurants, hotels, service stations. No problem at all.

Glad to read that! In looking at the potential route of Guarda, Oia, Baiona and beyond, it appears you were walking down a small coastal road--correct?

Here is a silly question, but one that keeps me up at night--when walking on the beach, how do you know if you've reached a town?

Thanks, everyone, for your patience as I noodle this out for myself!

 

[Former member 22438]

All places are situated at the coastside .there are not many towns. Only Porto and Vigo are bigger towns. Viana do Castelo, Caminha ,a Guarda are smaller places.
As soon as you see a concentration of houses, a church , restaurants ,a boulevard you know you are in an urban area.
There is not much beachwalking. There are boardwalks, boulevards etc.
I should advise you the take a detailed map with you.
As far as I know in Porto they can provide a good map at the Tourist Info but I forget to ask about it in 2013 when we were there but I saw it once herre somewhere on the forum.
There are digital maps available on this coastal forum when you read back a bit.
There are links to the website of mr. Freixo who published useful information.
If you google Luis Freixo Caminho deSantiago do Compostela you'll find many links

Bom caminho