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Coastal: Places to Stay

Rebekah Scott

Camino Busybody
Time of past OR future Camino
Many, various, and continuing.
Here is a place to discuss accommodation options on the Coastal Portuguese route between OPorto and Redondela.

I will open up with the Albergue de Peregrinos in Caminha, Portugal.

It is situated underneath a school alongside the big public park by the river, which sounds very pretty but translates to, well... damp and rather dark.
There´s a kitchen with cutlery, plates, and a microwave oven.

There is one smaller dorm room with four bunks, and a much larger dormitory with about 40 bunks, (and four blankets among them) seperate showers for men and women (three stalls each), plenty of hot water.

The facility was clean, but musty and damp. Access was restricted, we phoned a number posted on the door and waited for an attendant to come and unlock it for us. We stayed on a donativo basis, the attendant spoke only Portuguese and a form of French, and snored like a champion from the small dorm room. (Had I been traveling alone, I would not have stayed.)

Caminha is a charming town with plenty of places to eat and drink and lots of historical sites. Internet is available at the public library, which also houses an interesting little museum. It is on the train line between Spain and Oporto, and also home to the ferry boat that carries pilgrims onward across the ria to A Guarda and Spain.
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Hi Rebekah,
Great idea for a thread. You may not remember, but you and Kathy were only the 3rd and 4th pilgrims who I saw from Oporto to Redondela. Can give some accommodation ideas for those who have sleeping issues and desire to stay in private rooms. I was traveling alone, so these rates would have worked out better if you were able to share a room.

Vila do Conde- Estalagem do Brazao-nice clean hotel in good location, but was a little expensive at
39E, including breakfast.
Esposende- Hotel Suave Mar- nice hotel on the sea and on the trail

Viana do Costelo- stayed in Residencial Laranjeira, in the "old town", perfect location for 40E,
very pilgrim friendly, place outside of room to hang laundry.
A Guarda- It was late in the day and I decided to ferry across instead of staying in Caminha for the
day. Caminha was a beautiful town, but was warned that ferry sometimes is not able to
cross in morning until 10 or 11 because of low tides or weather. Stayed at Hotel Vila da
Guarda for 20E including breakfast.
Oia- Stayed at Hotel A Raina for 30E, including breakfast and laundry, with room overlooking
the sea. A fantastic dinner was served for 8E. Owe this great recommendation to Johnny
Walker.
Baiona- Hotel Anunciada for 20E. Ask for pilgrims' rate. Very nice room in great location.
Redondela- stayed at municipal albergue- good facilities, except small kitchen and very noisy.

All of these accommodations were well located, friendly hosts and could have been less expensive if sharing a room. At the beginning of the coastal route after Vila do Conde, I struggled with finding
waymarkers and many days made several passes back and forth between the road path and any way
I could manage close to the sea. This led to several exhausting days, so I was ready at the end of the day for any clean place to lay my head and didn't take the time to look for albergues or hostels, etc.
The coastal route is beautiful and in my opinion, a great way to start the Portuguese Caminho.
 
Hi we did the coastal route in June 2013. We started from Porto airport where we stayed in a private hostel for 14 euros including breakfast. It is highly recommended. The next evening we stayed in Vila do Conde but I do not believe that there is a hostel there but the tourist information office has a list of bed and breakfast places. Some are expensive but there are some cheaper ones. You need to have a look at them before deciding!!

There is now an albergue in Marinahs.If you follow the signs to the alberque you will pass the red cross ambulance depot. You need to call in to the red cross and obtain the key to the albergue. If you are lucky they will give you a lift in an ambulance. There is one problem with this albergue. It appears that there is only one key. So if someone gets there before you and they go out for dinner you will have to sit around waiting for them to come back.

The next albergue is at Viana do costelo in the convent. It is very easy to miss this albergue. When you cross over the bridge with amazing views there will be stickers on posts directing you to the albergue but you can walk past it. There is a small sign on the wooden doors of the convent.

Caminha has a large albergue with a room with 4 bunk beds and then a large room with 24 beds. There is a telephone number on the door and someone will come with the key in about 10/15 minutes. Unfortunately we had a bad experience at this albergue. We arrived and booked in and at that time we were the only people registered. When we were going out to eat we saw 2 walkers approaching the albergue. When we returned the 2 walkers had taken over the 4 bedded room and put all their gear on the 4 beds and gone out. They were not registered in the book but 5 cyclists were. Imagine our shock when we saw that as well as our 3 beds the other 21 bad been taken up by cycling gear. So we had registered and 5 cyclists had but 19 other people had not. Except for us all the others were out and they had filled the locks with cardboard etc to prevent us locking the doors. We did not know what to do and so phoned the number on the door and were told someone would be there i ten minutes but nobody came. At 11.45 they all came back cyclists and walkers they turned all the lights on played music in the kitchen. When they eventually went to bed about 1am they started to pretend to snore and then had a competition to see who could make the loudest "rude" noise. The lights went back on at 5.15 am when the cyclists all got up and left. They appeared to be a cycling club out for the weekend rather than travelling the Camino. I have no idea how they all got in. This is the only bad experience we have had in the three times we have walked the camino.
 
Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Hi,
I just got back from this route (July 2013). Luis has a map which posts an "A" next to every town with an albergue on the coastal route. Here's a link: http://www.caminador.es/wp-content/uplo ... N-2013.pdf. If this doesn't work, download the map from his website: http://www.caminador.es

I met some Polish men who said they slept on the floor of a fire station in Vila do Conde. I stayed in a pension (the one mentioned by Johnny Walker) for 20e.
Instead of the albergue in Caminha, I took the ferry in the evening and stayed in the albergue in A Guarda.(I was told the very wouldn't run at all on the first Monday of the month.) It was on the far side of town in a facility run by the police and St. Vincent De Paul. Be aware it is slightly off the route (the arrows will not lead you directly to the door). We called the police on the way in to let them know we were coming. We had a great dinner at the restaurant on the corner just before the albergue, and in the morning, we were let into the bakery next door before opening hours. Or we wandered in and they were very patient with us and sold us croissants.
Mougas: private albergue for 10e. I think this might have been a junta that the government could no longer sponser after 2010. Currently run by a local family who might also own the bar next door. The bar served good food.
Ramallosa: Lovely, clean private "cell" at the Apostolic Sisters convent for 10e. Also, an amazing dinner including goose neck barnacles and Coquilles St. Jaque in a slightly rough looking cafe/bar/restaurant in a square near the bottom of the hill. The bar is next to a tapas place and faces a large modern building with a vegetarian breakfast cafe.
O Friexo: where Luis and his neighbors run a village albergue in a former (?) town library. Only four beds. Also mats in a common room. Bar downstairs. The hospitalera prepared a good. simple, inexpensive meal. Luis made quemada after dinner.
Luis's website has all I ever needed to know about walking the various coastal options...if only I'd downloaded and printed the material before I left!

Kelly
 
Hi Kelly. Thanks for the links; however, neither ever loaded for me. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Laurie
 
PORTO TO SANTIAGO (COASTAL) 2013

DATEDESTINATIONHOTEL/HOSTALCBOOKINGPRICE
Thursday 5th, P, (15km) Porto
Airporto Hostal, Rua da Estrada 244, Porto, 4470, tel: 00351911046710, email: airoportohostel@gmail.com Chostalbookers.com £14.67
Friday 6th, P (27km) Vila do Conde
Casa da Laura, Rua Estreita, Vilarinho, 4480, Vi do Conde CFacebook, E-mail ?
Saturday 7th, P, (25km)Esposende
Apulia Praia Hotel, Avenida da Praia 45, Apulia - Esposende (Minho) 4740-033, tel: 00351253989290, email: geral@apuliapraia-hotel.comCBooking.com€39.00
Sunday 8th, P, (27km)Viano de Castelo
Hospedaria Senhora do Carmo, Rua Grande, 72 ou Viela da Cega, 44 Viana do Castelo, 4900-542, tel: 00351258825118, email: batistaesilva@sapo.ptCBooking.com€20.00
Monday 9th, P, (22km) Caminha
San Pedro, Rua da Parede Alta, 14 (sao Pedro), Caminha, 4910-341, tel: 00351258727475, email: geral@residencialsaopedro.com CBooking.com €35.00
Tuesday 10th, SP, (20km approx)OiaHotel Araina (Tel 0034 986 362908)CBy phone on 31/7€30.00
Wednesday 11th, SP, (26km approx)Baiona
Carabel La Pinta, Camino Entrehortas 21-1, Baiona, 36300, tel: 0034986355107, email: info@hotelcarabelapinta.comCBooking.com€32.00
Thursday 12th, SP (20km approx)Vigo
Hostal la Colegiata, Plaza de la Iglesia 3, Vigo, 36202, tel: 0034986220129, email: hostalacolegiata@hotmail.esCBooking.com€20.00
Friday 13th, SP, (18.2km)RedondeiaAlbergue Xunta, Casa de TorreTBCN/A?
Saturday 14th, SP (23.1km)Pontevedra
Hotel Comercio, Gonzalez Besada 3, Pontevedra, 36001, tel: 0034986851217, email: info@hcomercio.comCBooking.com €30.00
Sunday 15th, SP, (18.1km)Caldas de Reis
H Balneario Acuna, Herreria 2, Caldas de Reis, 36650, tel: 0034902104841, email: reservas@relaistermal.com, NO WI-FICBooking.com £30.07
Monday 16th, SP, (24.9km)Padron,
Hotel Rosalia, Marixa Villanueva, S/N, Padron, 15900, tel: 0034981812490, email: info@hotelrosalia.esCBooking.com€25.00
Tuesday 17th, SPSantiago
Hospedaria San Martin Pinario, Seminario Mayor, Plaza de la Inmaculada 3, C.P 15704, Santiago, tel: 0034981560282, email: reservas@sanmartinpinario.euCMe/print off€23.00
Wednesday 18thAIRPORT HOME. An excellent route recorded on my Blog "ensuitepilgrim/ Wordpress.com".
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Excellent detail. Thanks so much!

Laurie
 
Hi musicman,

Thanks so much for that list! Can I ask if you booked ahead or just found places when you got there? We're any of the places hard to find if you had booked ahead?

Cheers
Ella
 
Povoa de Varzim Hotel Luso Brasileiro (Booked 45 euros B&B)
http://www.hotellusobrasileiro.pt/en/

Esposende Hotel Estalagem do Zende (40 euros B&B)
Wouldn't bother with this gaff again. Bit dingy. The albergue at Marinhas 4km or so down the road looked ok.
Shortage of budget rooms in Esposende.




Viana do Castelo Hospedaria Senhora do Carmo (30 euros room only)
batistasilva@sapo.pt


Caminha Residencial Galo D'Ouro (40 euros room only)
http://residencialgalodouro.blogspot.co.uk/



Oia Casa Puertas (40 euros B&B). Best place we stopped.
http://www.casapuertas.es/location.html



Didn't stop in Baiona as we had two nights rest and recreation on Las Islas Cies.

Vigo Hotel Hesperia (72 euros B&B). Bit of a splurge but we were very tired.


Redondela Rosa's Albergue no. 33 just up from the official albergue.
(51 euros included Bed, Evening Meal, Breakfast and quite a few beers!)


PontevedraHotel Boavila (45 euros room only). Nice room but right in the centre which is very noisy at the weekend.
http://www.hotelboavila.es/



Caldas de Reis Hotel Lotus (30 euros room only). Excellent value.


Padron Chef Rivera (70 euros room only but it did have a jacuzzi…bliss)


Santiago Hotel Barbantes http://www.libredonbarbantes.com/ (50 euros a night room only)


Musicman - I think I saw you between Caldas de Reis and Padron was about to engage you in conversation when the wife shouted me back for something, by the time I'd finished you were gone and I never saw you again. Presume it was you? Wearing a patch of this forum on your rucksack and listening to an ipod? Stroll on brother...stroll on.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Sorry forgot to add that these were all double room prices.
 
Povoa de Varzim Hotel Luso Brasileiro (Booked 45 euros B&B)
http://www.hotellusobrasileiro.pt/en/

Esposende Hotel Estalagem do Zende (40 euros B&B)
Wouldn't bother with this gaff again. Bit dingy. The albergue at Marinhas 4km or so down the road looked ok.
Shortage of budget rooms in Esposende.




Viana do Castelo Hospedaria Senhora do Carmo (30 euros room only)
batistasilva@sapo.pt


Caminha Residencial Galo D'Ouro (40 euros room only)
http://residencialgalodouro.blogspot.co.uk/



Oia Casa Puertas (40 euros B&B). Best place we stopped.
http://www.casapuertas.es/location.html



Didn't stop in Baiona as we had two nights rest and recreation on Las Islas Cies.

Vigo Hotel Hesperia (72 euros B&B). Bit of a splurge but we were very tired.


Redondela Rosa's Albergue no. 33 just up from the official albergue.
(51 euros included Bed, Evening Meal, Breakfast and quite a few beers!)


PontevedraHotel Boavila (45 euros room only). Nice room but right in the centre which is very noisy at the weekend.
http://www.hotelboavila.es/



Caldas de Reis Hotel Lotus (30 euros room only). Excellent value.


Padron Chef Rivera (70 euros room only but it did have a jacuzzi…bliss)


Santiago Hotel Barbantes http://www.libredonbarbantes.com/ (50 euros a night room only)


Musicman - I think I saw you between Caldas de Reis and Padron was about to engage you in conversation when the wife shouted me back for something, by the time I'd finished you were gone and I never saw you again. Presume it was you? Wearing a patch of this forum on your rucksack and listening to an ipod? Stroll on brother...stroll on.

Wow, many good tidbits. I'm curious...will these places be expecting cash or will they in general accept a credit card?

Thank you for the wonderful info. I trust you had a great journey.

Laurie
 
@musicman

Thanks for report very much. But were those prices for double (shared) ved room or single???
Thanks again :)

Bom caminho!
 
Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Used Visa in
Povoa
Esposende
Oia
Vigo
Caldas de Reis
Padron
Santiago.

Cash all other places.
 
Used Visa in
Povoa
Esposende
Oia
Vigo
Caldas de Reis
Padron
Santiago.

Cash all other places.
None booked in advance apart from Povoa, just walked up on the day. In hindsight I would book in advance for Santiago though. Bit of a rush round early evening to find somewhere.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
I am in Porto and heading out tomorrow - will update this thread with anywhere I say along the way and thoughts about it. At the moment we are staying at the Rivoli Cinema Hostel and it is great - highly recommended! Lots of fun activities and the bed was good. It is also close to the cathedral.
 
Ella, have the time of your life. I'm just checked in at a hotel in Santiago. I made it! However very tired and sore. Wonderful time. I don't know if I told you that I took the coastal route only until I took the ferry across to Spain. Then I left and went east to Tui to join the regular Portuguese route and finished that way. So I had two really different experiences and both just wonderful. Sorry I'm too tired to write anymore right now. Unfortunately I think I've caught a cold!

I'll post more later and I'll look forward to your posts.

Bom Caminho!

Laurie
 
Ella, have the time of your life. I'm just checked in at a hotel in Santiago. I made it! However very tired and sore. Wonderful time. I don't know if I told you that I took the coastal route only until I took the ferry across to Spain. Then I left and went east to Tui to join the regular Portuguese route and finished that way. So I had two really different experiences and both just wonderful. Sorry I'm too tired to write anymore right now. Unfortunately I think I've caught a cold!

I'll post more later and I'll look forward to your posts.

Bom Caminho!

Laurie
Hi Laurie! So glad to hear you made it!! We are in Vila do Conde tonight! We did get a little lost at one point, but knowing we had to head to the coast made it easy! Love to hear more about your Camino when you are rested up!
 
Get a spanish phone number with Airalo. eSim, so no physical SIM card. Easy to use app to add more funds if needed.
Hi Laurie! So glad to hear you made it!! We are in Vila do Conde tonight! We did get a little lost at one point, but knowing we had to head to the coast made it easy! Love to hear more about your Camino when you are rested up!
Ella, I'm looking forward to how it feels now to have walked to Santiago! Indescribable, isn't it?

Laurie
 
Ella, I'm looking forward to how it feels now to have walked to Santiago! Indescribable, isn't it?

Laurie
Hi Laurie,

We enjoyed the walk very much and got to see parts of Portugal and Spain others would never see! We are in Paris now for the last night of our trip before heading home tomorrow. I think it will all sink in after I get back and start going through the huge amount of photos I have!!!

I have to say after the last few days in Barcelona and Paris in all the tourist areas I am pining for the little quiet towns we stayed in along the way! I don't do touristy stuff very well - crowds are not my thing!
 
Thanks so much for all this info: it is exactly the kind of stuff I am looking for as I plan a trip from Porto for the spring. I want to know what the choices are: maybe use some inexpensive hotels as well as the albergues. Still doing the research.
dusty
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
Hi Laurie,

We enjoyed the walk very much and got to see parts of Portugal and Spain others would never see! We are in Paris now for the last night of our trip before heading home tomorrow. I think it will all sink in after I get back and start going through the huge amount of photos I have!!!

I have to say after the last few days in Barcelona and Paris in all the tourist areas I am pining for the little quiet towns we stayed in along the way! I don't do touristy stuff very well - crowds are not my thing!
Hello Ella. Welcome back to 'reality'! I'm so glad to hear you had a wonderful adventure. You are right...your experiences are not what most people get to enjoy. Yeah!!

I understand your thoughts on the villages vs. the tourist areas. I was in Barcelona 1.5 years ago - more specifically the Catalonia region, including Costa Brava (hiking!). We held off on Barcelona until our final few days there, and I'm so grateful for that. We explored small towns and the coast and thoroughly enjoyed relaxing before doing up the big city. Perfect. It's nice to do it all, but if I had only one choice, it would be the villages.

We look forward to you sharing your own journey, when the time is right.

Rest well, let it all sink in, and be prepared to have the Camino continue to wash over you for days, months, and years to come!

Blessings,
Anna :-)
 
A lot of useful information! Am thinking of walking Porto-Santiago (coastal) during the second half of June 2014. Any suggestions, considering I intend to walk a max. of 20 km/day, which is a bit less than all you young people have been doing?
 
Hi Fraluchi. Well, I will take your comment about age as a compliment, but I certainly am no longer considered a "young person"! In any event, when I walked Porto-Santiago this past Sept/Oct, I didn't pay much attention to distance, honestly. I began on the Coastal route and walked another route a bit inland before crossing East to Tui and joining up on the main route to finish. I walked for 11 days, but at least 1.5 days I would say I was either "lost", "wandering", or simply "delayed by rain"!

I've only done this one Camino, so my input on this is quite simple. As long as you know that where you might end up has a bed for you, I wouldn't really be concerned. In other words, there are opportunities on much of the Portuguese routes to stay in different towns/villages. You don't have to follow the 'norm'. You can follow your body!

Having said that, though, I wasn't walking during the peak summer months. Beds may be a little harder to come by in late June when many people walk. On the other hand, the Portuguese route is not near as frequented as the French route.

I really think you will be okay to walk the distance you feel comfortable with each day. I had some days when it seemed a long way to go even a short distance, but mostly my days were filled with, "Wow, that was a really good day!" I recall the last couple of days I hardly even felt the pack on my back. Instead of being weary, I was more energized than ever.

Be sure you have the correct footwear for you AND that you are either wearing double-layer socks (I'm referring to the Wright brand which actually comes as a double-layer sock) AND you are switching pairs once during the day, especially in the summer. I never had anything close to a blister, and that's the regime I followed. Plus, when I stopped during the day for food (the long stop), I removed my shoes and socks and put up my feet :)

I wish you a most blessed journey. The Caminho will walk you, and you will be forever changed.

Bom Caminho!

Anna Grace
 
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Ideal sleeping bag liner whether we want to add a thermal plus to our bag, or if we want to use it alone to sleep in shelters or hostels. Thanks to its mummy shape, it adapts perfectly to our body.

€46,-
Hi Fraluchi. Well, I will take your comment about age as a compliment, but I certainly am no longer considered a "young person"! In any event, when I walked Porto-Santiago this past Sept/Oct, I didn't pay much attention to distance, honestly. I began on the Coastal route and walked another route a bit inland before crossing East to Tui and joining up on the main route to finish. I walked for 11 days, but at least 1.5 days I would say I was either "lost", "wandering", or simply "delayed by rain"!

I've only done this one Camino, so my input on this is quite simple. As long as you know that where you might end up has a bed for you, I wouldn't really be concerned. In other words, there are opportunities on much of the Portuguese routes to stay in different towns/villages. You don't have to follow the 'norm'. You can follow your body!

Having said that, though, I wasn't walking during the peak summer months. Beds may be a little harder to come by in late June when many people walk. On the other hand, the Portuguese route is not near as frequented as the French route.

I really think you will be okay to walk the distance you feel comfortable with each day. I had some days when it seemed a long way to go even a short distance, but mostly my days were filled with, "Wow, that was a really good day!" I recall the last couple of days I hardly even felt the pack on my back. Instead of being weary, I was more energized than ever.

Be sure you have the correct footwear for you AND that you are either wearing double-layer socks (I'm referring to the Wright brand which actually comes as a double-layer sock) AND you are switching pairs once during the day, especially in the summer. I never had anything close to a blister, and that's the regime I followed. Plus, when I stopped during the day for food (the long stop), I removed my shoes and socks and put up my feet :)

I wish you a most blessed journey. The Caminho will walk you, and you will be forever changed.

Bom Caminho!

Anna Grace
I like your thoughts and comments very much. I'm also an optimist and hope it works for me when I start in April Dennis
 
This is an amazing thread. But the last post was 2013 - Do any of you recent Portuguese Pilgrims have a place to add?. . .What was your favourite place to stay on the Coastal Route - either north or south of Porto?
 
This is an amazing thread. But the last post was 2013 - Do any of you recent Portuguese Pilgrims have a place to add?. . .What was your favourite place to stay on the Coastal Route - either north or south of Porto?
A must imho is hostal(NOT hotel !!) o Laranjeiro in Viana do Castelo (there is a hotel but also the hostal with the same name) owners walked the camino themselves.

http://www.olaranjeira.com/
 
The 2024 Camino guides will be coming out little by little. Here is a collection of the ones that are out so far.
A must imho is hostal(NOT hotel !!) o Laranjeiro in Viana do Castelo (there is a hotel but also the hostal with the same name) owners walked the camino themselves.

http://www.olaranjeira.com/

Albertino is so right!
Viana do Castelo is a very nice seaside town with a pilgrim albergue, S. João da Cruz dos Caminhos. However if you are searching for private accommodation, do consider the OLarenjeiro, rua Rua Manuel Espregueira, 24. It is a charming old-fashioned but newly furnished small place with a very good dining room. Just before Christmas 2014 a double room, (our's was named after Eiffel), with private bath and delicious breakfast was 45 euros. Quite a bargain!
 
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