Christmas memories from Camino Frances. Anyone?

[Pheilhans]

I notice that on the tread "December 2024 start ups" there are no pilgrims that has alerted they will start walking CF during Christmas, noor second part of December for that matter. I seem to remember years ago people writing up and down this board on their experiences of walking during Christmas and how special this felt. I am an experienced winter walker on the Camino Frances, but have never walked during Christmas. I would love to hear people share their experiences of walking during Christmas on the CF. It should be doable, should it not? Anyone else doing some walking on any of the caminoes this Christmas without prebooking the whole bed thing?

 

[J Willhaus]

We have served as hospitaleros over Christmas at Grañón in 2018 on the CF and Zamora in 2017 on the VdlP. Great experiences! Smaller groups, but made for cozy evenings at both places.

 

[Takahiwai]

I'm pretty sure I've mentioned this story before on another thread, but as you've asked..

After a long camino, which began in Chartres, following the Via Turonensis, and ended in SdC, I still had three weeks remaining of the time I'd allotted myself, so decided to see how far back I could walk before my time ran out. I was quite worried about what might be open, specifically on Christmas Day, so I cast my mind back to all the refugios in which I'd stayed, and decided I'd try my luck in Mansilla de las Mulas.

The young hospitalera there, well-known to many on this forum, was Laura, in her first year of service, and quite disgruntled about having being given the job by her mother, then mayor of the town. I'm 100% sure that she didn't envisage 20-odd years of caring for pilgrims at that point! Anyway, despite having seen almost no pilgrims throughout the entirety of my walk (ida y vuelta), I used Christmas Eve to stock up on huge quantities of food and drink, in case there was a surprise influx of pilgrims. In fact, only one other pilgrim arrived that day, a sanctimonious born-again Basque gentleman, who proceeded to spend hours trying to lecture me on what a bad pilgrim I was, and how I shouldn't have squandered money on stocking the fridge, but should, instead, have spent the day in silent contemplation of the true significance of Christmas etc.

Fortunately for me, Laura, desperate to escape her family Christmas, dropped in to take me out on the town, which was a blessed release, even though Xabino trailed along disapprovingly for a while. He moved along the next day (Christmas Day) to be replaced by a lovely Belgian cardiac nurse, who was doing the camino to mark his 40th year, and sporting a large yellow sunflower to brighten up his all-black apparel. I wish I could remember his name, rather than that of the grumpy Basque.

 

[trecile]

Anyway, despite having seen almost no pilgrims throughout the entirety of my walk (ida y vuelta), I used Christmas Eve to stock up on huge quantities of food and drink, in case there was a surprise influx of pilgrims. In fact, only one other pilgrim arrived that day, a sanctimonious born-again Basque gentleman, who proceeded to spend hours trying to lecture me on what a bad pilgrim I was, and how I shouldn't have squandered money on stocking the fridge, but should, instead, have spent the day in silent contemplation of the true significance of Christmas etc.

What you did in thinking of others was far more "Christian" than what the Basque gentleman suggested.

 

[Takahiwai]

What you did in thinking of others was far more "Christian" than what the Basque gentleman suggested.

That was my argument, insofar as I could express myself in Spanish at the time. It didn't wash with him, though.

 

[CWBuff]

That was my argument, insofar as I could express myself in Spanish at the time. It didn't wash with him, though.

Well... stupid iz as stupid duz.
His loss.

 

[BigT]

I hope many stories and photographs are submitted, as I am hoping to convince my grandsons to Go Caminoing with me between Christmas and New Year's in the next few years. How about Portugal at Christmas, any comments, photographs? For me, in general, Europe feels more like Christmas than here in the USA.

 

[J Willhaus]

Another really great time on the Camino is 3 Kings Day (actually the night before) and there are parades and celebrations all over Spain! We went to the big parade in Burgos one year. Last year I had a small university group in Arzua. Even in tiny towns there are celebrations because "The Kings are coming". In Grañón, pilgrims and hospitaleros are sometimes called into service to play the role as a "king" because the children generally don't recognize them.

 

[roving_rufus]

Never been on Christmas Eve/Day but definitely New Year and 3 kings/Epiphany.

I was on VF in Italy for Epiphany - I was asked for a sock the night before and in the morning I had some sweets tucked into my sock downstairs (like i was a child again!). I was in Vercelli on Epiphany, went to mass and the nuns brought me in to show me further treasures and made me a hot coffee before I set off. That evening in Nicorvo there was an issue with keys for the ostello as it had an electronic lock but a power cut had knocked it out, and both the key holders had gone to visit family- so I was waiting in the bar until they returned and 2 different locals bought me drinks as it was a holiday- a coffee (to warm up) and 2 glasses of wine.


On New Years Day I did enjoy the Christmas market in Leon, and wonderful lights! I do love the Christmas lights and decorations, and nativity scenes in every town, village and church.

 

[J Willhaus]

There was a belén competition in both Zamora and Grañón. These very elaborate nativity scenes are set up. Zamora had more than 20 of them in the old town. In Grañón, Phil and I were on a panel of three to judge the local belén displays and we awarded the winners at the Sunday Mass.