- Time of past OR future Camino
- Recent:Norte/Muxia- Spring '23
MadridWay- Fall '23
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There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.Day 2-
We walked 21k in sunshine again today from Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas. The Camino paths and other dirt roads were good for the feet with no loose, rolling rocks, so it was easy to look around at the pretty landscape and flowers. The white broom is everywhere and I love it. The yellow broom has barely blossomed yet. I also took time to climb another set of stone stairs to a church tower to the top; plenty of weeds on these steps too.
Gronze.
We are staying in Puebla de Sanabria for two nights and Requejo is the following night so I will watch for it. Thanks for the info, Paul.One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.
So pleasant to read the account of someone taking it relatively easy and truly enjoying the sights. Buen provecho.Day 2-
We walked 21k in sunshine again today from Rionegro del Puente to Entrepenas. The Camino paths and other dirt roads were good for the feet with no loose, rolling rocks, so it was easy to look around at the pretty landscape and flowers. The white broom is everywhere and I love it. The yellow broom has barely blossomed yet. I also took time to climb another set of stone stairs to a church tower to the top; plenty of weeds on these steps too.
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We had pre-arranged lodging to stay at Casa Azul; a newly remodeled small one bedroom house and we had it all to ourselves. The owner drove us to a restaurant just a couple of miles away for dinner, which was a nice gesture as there is nowhere to eat. We had another Pilgrim from Germany eating with us and she spoke good English, which made for nice conversation.
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We have a short day tomorrow of 16k because we sometimes break up long stages shown on Gronze.
Paul, I was so disappointed to not take the turn off at Terroso today to see the church, but the cold day with intermittent drizzle and some muddy spots had me focused on getting to the albergue. There are only six of us here tonight.There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.
This brings back happy memories of my first Camino. On the advice of locals we walked on the road in the snow (it was April then as well) before it turned to sunshine on the other side of the tunnel.Day 6-
It was rather cold this morning when we checked out of the albergue in Requejo at 8:30am, so I layered and wore my puffy jacket. It was suggested we take the road at first instead of the Camino due to rain overnight with muddy trails in the low valley. I am very impressed with the nice N525 because there was no traffic since the interstate A52 was built nearly paralleling it. We stayed on the road, crossing its bridge and 345 meter tunnel before later joined up with the Camino path. Only one pilgrim passed us today; our new friend from dinner; Pete from Holland.
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After entering the adorable village of Acibros with its lovely renovations of homes, church and ancient grain grinding stones, including new slate roofs, we entered the Camino nature path again. It was gorgeous with heavy bright green moss on old stone fences, and large soft lichen growing on humongous twisted tree trunks, reminding me of a fairytale Hobbit forest. I liked these colorful bee hive houses amongst the green and brown.
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We reached Lubien about 4k later, and it was a larger town going through many similar very attractive renovations. I have a little theory about all of this renovation work going on in the two villages. The newly completed AVE train goes in the middle between the two and I speculate funds were possibly allocated to improve these villages on either side of the tracks.
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We have settled in our room at Casa Cesar and had calamari and homemade croquettes for a quick dinner at the nearby restaurant.
I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?Finally about an hour before we arrived at Casa Nunez (thanks to @peragrina2000 calling in a reservation for me),
Well, you get what you pay for. At 35 euros for a private twin room and bathroom, I'll not complain, but since you asked, it was not the cleanest; a bit grungy. I checked for bedbugs and found no signs. The water was very hot and we put our washed socks and shoes on the wall heaters, which were warmer and stayed on longer than most places, and were dry this morning...apparently only to get wet again today. Most importantly, the sheets were clean with warm blankets.I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?
Turning on the charm — love it!I'd heard the worker lady (owner?) was a bit of a sourpuss, so I made sure I was smiling and appreciative, and she quickly became sweet as pie.
Given the current exchange rates, one possibility is that the host keyed in a charge of EU25 and not EU35 by mistake.I see I had my credit card purchase emailed to me automatically this morning and I was only charged $25.77 US for the Casa Nunez room; no idea why it was so cheap...go figure.
Maybe you got the pilgrim discount?I see I had my credit card purchase emailed to me automatically this morning and I was only charged $25.77 US for the Casa Nunez room; no idea why it was so cheap...go figure.
Kindness always spreads...wonderful, Chris.. I'd heard the worker lady (owner?) was a bit of a sourpuss, so I made sure I was smiling and appreciative, and she quickly became sweet as pie.
Ditto. Fossils?Last but not least, I also "have a thing" for rocks and today I have been loving the bluestone and shale.
Thanks, @VNwalking, i'm glad you are liking my write-ups on the Sanabres.Really loving your words and images, Chris.
It looks gorgeous.
Ditto. Fossils?
(Here you go. Too much information, but you're on this gorgeous geological map:
(One map east of this one - that you just walked over on the way from Puebla de Sanabria - had some eye-wateringly old granite....)
Well, yeah. Me too. But it's fun to explore it anyway. I just discovered DeepL can translate geological nomenclature!That link looks very interesting, but probably think I would fail a test
It is a sweet, isolated little church. We climbed the steps and rang the bell.There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.
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The dealbreaker for us at Campobecerros was the copious evidence of a longterm bedbug infestation. The rims of the mattresses were lined with evidence. And there was a dead bedbug on top of the sheet. Glad that wasn't apparently your room, Chrissy!I know that several Forum members have posted very negative opinions about this place. What’s your opinion, Chrissy?
I haven’t been following your Camino since I’m on the Invierno right now, but a quick skim through the posts and beautiful pictures show that you’re having a wonderful camino.
I’m in Galicia now too (leaving Quiroga today), and it looks like we will have enough rain for the next week to keep us good and wet every day!
I checked the mattresses and the slats first thing. Then I looked in the closet and corners of the nightstand drawers. I saw no sign of the tiny black poo buildups anywhere. I am glad you found somewhere else to stay close by...all good..Glad that wasn't apparently your room, Chrissy!
Dojo, I only wanted to be away from home for less than a month and always add in a few sightseeing days, in addition to the walk.Chrissy - I plan to do the VDP/Sanabres in May 2025 starting in Salamanca, so I am following your posts with much interest. Is there a reason you didn't start in Salamanca? How was the train from Madrid to Salamanca- did you have any issues? Your days seem rather short - did you plan it that way or did lodging drive it?
Yes, me too. And the ferocious dogs.Loving your posts, Chrissy!
We were unable to get a reservation in that town, so are staying in nearby Pousa, 2k further. Your suggestion may be beneficial to someone else reading along.Enjoying following your journey Chrissy. If you are stopping in Xunqueira de Ambia I thoroughly recommend Casa Tomas.
The dogs were absolutely adorable and didn't yap at all.Yes, me too. And the ferocious dogs.
Yeah, they really look like cuties.The dogs were absolutely adorable and didn't yap at all.
Hope so! I hear that shortly after the monastery at Oseiro there have been a bad dog or two reported by Luka and confirmed by others...we shall see.Yeah, they really look like cuties.
May these be the only kind of dogs you encounter.
Chrissy will just give them the sourpuss charm treatment and they’ll be wagging their tails at her in no time!Hope so! I hear that shortly after the monastery at Oseiro there have been a bad dog or two reported by Luka and confirmed by others...we shall see.
I try doing that every time I pass the barking meanies, but 4 out of 5 times my charming ways fall on deaf ears.Chrissy will just give them the sourpuss charm treatment and they’ll be wagging their tails at her in no time!
Where did you eat breakfast in Laza, please?today we were offered omelettes
Thx, sounds like you had a very big day from Laza to A Pousa Pension - congratsScott, the awesome breakfast was in Vilar de Barrio at Bistro Don Manuel...not in Laza. In Laza we had a very simple breakfast at our lodging.
I am sorry, Scott, as I didn't make myself clear enough. We stopped for the night in Vilar de Barrio, and the great breakfast was in that same village. The next night was in Pousa. I cut that long stage in two and was glad I did.Thx, sounds like you had a very big day from Laza to A Pousa Pension - congrats, you would have needed 2nd breakfast…
Thanks for the memory, Chris! Buen camino!Day 11
It rained today steady for an hour, so we added our umbrellas to our rain gear. An hour doesn't sound like much of over 6 hours walking, but it is when navigating a variety of trails. The weather has been slowly getting warmer, so we haven't needed our gloves and warm hats...yay.
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I'm a sucker for old blue doors, so here is a plethora on an old building.
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We only stopped once, sitting on an enclosed "Bus Stop" bench to eat our cheese sandwiches, cashews, and chocolate out of the rain. It reminded me of the old song I recalled as a very young teen so I took my phone off airplane mode and played it on Youtube while we walked; it was so much fun to hear it!
I hope this link works...
As we neared our destination of the city of Ourense, the proportion of lovely homes increased. We eventually turned left at the car dealership and walked the river path recommended by Laurieinto the city.
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We later arrived at our room at J&J Hostel and have two nights here. This room has a beautiful enclosed balcony, so it can be enjoyed even if it rains, which is still predicted for another day; highly recommend room #103 as only two rooms have the angled enclosed huge balcony.
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We do not always like eating dinner so late at the typical 8:00pm in Spain, so we'd stopped at a grocery store for pasta salads, strawberries, and ice for the bottle of fizzy Semi Seco white wine I enjoy.
Sunday is a free day in Ourense, so I'll check for sights to see in addition to the cathedral, although it is supposed to rain.
A whimsy pilgrim...
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Me too. It also gives hope and inspiration that this camino is doable for those of us with shorter comfort zonesWhat a pleasure to read about someone taking the time to experience a route rather than just complete it. Buen Camino.
8pm at the absolute earliest! A lot of restaurant kitchens wouldn’t even be open yet.We do not always like eating dinner so late at the typical 8:00pm in Spain
It seems to have been a pretty grim week or two for weather over a lot of the Caminos. Huge numbers still arriving in Santiago though. I've been watching the webcam near Monte do Gozo now and again and it sometimes looks like the paintings of Napoleon's retreat from Moscow with all the damp people walking past! Ultreia!It rained today steady for an hour, so we added our umbrellas to our rain gear.
OMG. Love them all, each and every ferocious snarling one.These three amigos were seriously ferocious and the one on the far right is named Henry...just sayin'.
Thanks, Dani! I spend quite a bit of time putting my posts together most days and I enjoy doing it. It's nice to know you appreciate what I write.Oh Chrissy. So enjoying your post, pictures and the song.perfect for your day. Thank you once again for taking the time to share your experience with us. Makes those of us longing to be on a camino feel connected to yours.
Dani is not alone, your post's are much appreciated. It's clear that you put quite an effort into them and the photos are excellent.Thanks, Dani! I spend quite a bit of time putting my posts together most days and I enjoy doing it. It's nice to know you appreciate what I write.
That's a pity - one of the highlights of Ourense for me. Any sign of the As Burgas pool just down from the albergue being back in use any time soon?Due to the weather, we decided not to swim at any of the thermal bath hot springs, which was rather disappointing as eas something I had looked forward to.
Maybe you will get one of their regular balconies if you put in a request.I am also enjoying your reports, @Camino Chrissy! I am following them with special interest, as I will be on the Sanabrés soon! Booked at J&J too, but a single room, so I guess no balcony for me...
Were there problems finding beds in the albergues? Everywhere we stayed was over half empty.We met two older Frenchmen at breakfast this morning who are walking two stages today; my one stage is already 20k.
We also met a German gal who walks alone and started in Salamanca. She is walking even farther than those men because she was unable to reserve lodging for herself on her planned stage.
That IS a beautiful section of the Sanabres. Great pics! I'm sorry you had so much rain. Did you get a chance to try the swing, at least? It was actually hot for us the day we walked that (about a week before you?) Somebody showed me a pic from a few weeks before we were there and there was about 3" of snow on the trail!Day 8-
We walked from A Gudina to Campobecerros today, a total of 21k. It is supposed to be one of THE most beautiful stages on the Sanabres, and after such a gorgeous day yesterday, I was looking forward to this stage. Unfortunately we woke up to cold, fog and intermittent mist and light rain. Oh yes, we had some wind at times, too. I had forgotten we had crossed over and entered Galicia yesterday, but Galicia didn't let us forget!
Two tour groups of about eight to ten walkers in each passed us up early on wearing day packs, but after that we saw no one else the rest of the way.
The good news is that the whole trail snaked back and forth along a small, paved mountain road with no traffic and few ascents and descents. I found it to be the absolutely perfect surface to be walking in the rain and our dirty shoes were even washed clean.
We kept dry and "fairly warm" except for our fleece gloves that eventually got wet and it became difficult to keep our hands warm after six hours of walking. The temp hovered between 48 and 54°F the whole time. We had no opportunity to stop and eat the lunch we'd brought, nor to stop at a cafe/bar for a break.
We could barely see anything the whole way, which made me thankful for the sunshine and beauty of yesterday. Finally about an hour before we arrived at Casa Nunez (thanks to @peragrina2000 calling in a reservation for me), some of the fog and rain lifted, so I was able to take several pictures with my wrinkled, numb fingers.
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The beautiful reservoir peeked out.
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I will mention that every mojone along the Sanabres has been in pristine condition with absolutely no graffiti whatsoever; possibly because this more remote area draws mature, dedicated walkers in general.
(Our destination of Campobecerros in the background.)
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We finished our walk with a cafe con leche to warm us up and much later a nice meal of homemade soup, beef stew, potatoes, vino tinto, and chocolate ice cream cones.
We were a week ahead of Chrissy and really lucked out. It was warm and dry the whole way (started in Puebla de Sanabria), until just before Santiago. It got a bit cold and a little drizzly, but other than that we had no rain at all.It seems to have been a pretty grim week or two for weather over a lot of the Caminos. Huge numbers still arriving in Santiago though. I've been watching the webcam near Monte do Gozo now and again and it sometimes looks like the paintings of Napoleon's retreat from Moscow with all the damp people walking past! Ultreia!
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We were there on Apr. 14th.There are quite a few of those unique churches up ahead, Chrissy. I read somewhere that they are templar churches built with outside steps to the bell tower to provide convenient look-outs for approaching raiders. One of my favourites is the church of Santiago at Terroso just before Requejo, located all on its own in woodland.
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You walked on that thing?!different angles
I not sure, Jill. I planned ahead from home and booked the majority of our nights and have seen very few other walkers each day to find out. Only heading out of Pueblo de Sanabria did we see the two big groups on organized tours pass us.Were there problems finding beds in the albergues? Everywhere we stayed was over half empty.
Our rain thankfully was never pouring down. Mostly it was intermittent drizzle or light rain that came and went. The only day that was foggy happened to be this day. We stopped at the swing on the mirador and saw stone benches for gazing in all directions, knowing it was beautiful, but saw nothing through the shroud of fog.That IS a beautiful section of the Sanabres. Great pics! I'm sorry you had so much rain. Did you get a chance to try the swing, at least? It was actually hot for us the day we walked that (about a week before you?) Somebody showed me a pic from a few weeks before we were there and there was about 3" of snow on the trail!
Believe me, if I could walk on that "amusement park ride"You walked on that thing?!
Aiyeee. Marvelous.
Sounds like a lovely day.
For both, OP and VNwalking: and why not?You walked on that thing?!
Aiyeee. Marvelous.
Sounds like a lovely day.
Day 13-
Today was a majority uphill, from Ourense to Cea, a total of 22.3k according to Gronze. It was a long day for me, with a nice variety of trails, lanes and eventually picking our way through wet rocks in steam beds. I see someone left their shoes!
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Highlights included an early "picnic" lunch at an awesome tiny church on a big climb after a long slog getting out of Ourense with great views of the city below. The fog was just beginning to lift and eventually the sun broke through in all its glory after about three+ days of gray skies.
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My other favorite thing today was walking through the renovated village of Tamallancos, with pristine homes on the main village Camino street heading toward Cea.
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A very friendly, cute dog started following us for about one kilometer before he turned back after we left his sight rounding a corner. It was a relief, but he was adorable with long, fluffy fur and an unusual face.
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The small town of Cea, where we are staying at Casa Manoso, is a little treasure itself as everything is kept up well and the village square is particularly nice.
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P.S. We only saw two bikagrinos today; no walkers.
Walk on WHAT thing? I cant find the post about that.Believe me, if I could walk on that "amusement park ride"...anyone can!
Check the photos in Post #79 of the new bridge at Ourense.Walk on WHAT thing? I cant find the post about that.
Thank you, NYC.Lovely pictures.
In 2019, the thermal baths steps from albergue were open. A light drizzle cooled the heat of the baths the night I was there.
I took a wrong turn out of Ourense.
So, I ended up walking up, up, and up the road with cars whizzing or screeching past.
I stayed at the municipal albergue in Cea where I met a 60ish male Irish pilgrim.
We fell asleep to the snores of the hospitalero.
Buen camino CC and son.
You are one brave lady. I’m also scared of heights. Just looking at the added photos (views) you posted raised my heart rateIt's this crazy looking, extremely modern bridge with a pedestrian crossing up, around, over and down with oodles of steps.
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Just looking at these pictures makes me dizzy!It's this crazy looking, extremely modern bridge with a pedestrian crossing up, around, over and down with oodles of steps.
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