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Cathedrals

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When I went to live in Spain, I thought it would be head scarves [mantillas] for ladies, and NO bare shoulders. But that is not the case. If you are walking and come across a cathedral or church you'd like to visit, then just GO IN :).
You will be made welcome, and if you look like a pilgrim [backpack etc] you may well get a "Buen camino!" and a smile.
 
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Free in Spain?
So the guy in the priest's cassock in the Pamplona Cathedral who took my money scammed me?
At least he wasn't as expensive as the bloke at St Pauls in London.
 
Regarding clothes, don't make the mistake of packing clothes for "special occasions." The sight of pilgrims on the Camino dressed in their pants with zipper off legs and quick dry t-shirts is the norm. Nobody will give you a second glance. When entering churches be sure to be respectful--especially if there is a service underway. Don't take flash pictures unless you are sure they are allowed. Otherwise, the locals are more than happy to have you come in, sit down, and gather your thoughts and give thanks to God for safe passage.
 
As state support to the Spanish church has pretty well disappeared, church authorities are anxious to make sure that historic (and therefore expensive to maintain) churches do not fall down through disrepair. As far as I can recall, I only saw charges for Burgos and Santo Domingo. Villarcazar Sirga charged, IIRC, 3€. There is never a charge if you are attending services.
 
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When visiting historic churches anywhere I have traveled, I am not offended to be asked to pay a fee, or if there is a donation box I put in money. I am only there once and I hope that my small contribution will help the church to be there for future generation to visit.
 

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