Can someone explain Oviedo and the dotted line back to Norte route

[shefollowsshells]

I have only one book as I wait for my German books to arrive (laughing out loud here as I know very little German)...In Dave's book (Cicerone Guide) I am marking places based on folks experience here on the forum. In the thread that asked what were some of your favorite places Cudillero came up.
I see it is there near Gijon.

Can someone explain the decision to go to Oviedo and then the dotted line back up to the Norte?
I assume Oviedo must be really worth seeing and many pointed out it sounds like I will be there for Easter and that it would be a great spot for Easter. So if I plan to continue on the Norte (which I am leaning toward BUT totally up for suggestions) do I split at Villaviciosa hit Oviedo and then go up to Aviles ? or do I head back up to Villaviciosa.

Decisions , Decisions...
As always thanks in advance,

 

[StuartM]

I wasn't overwhelmed by Oviedo. It's a nice city but I think visiting may be more to do with it being a traditional pilgrimage destination than more modern tourist motives. The Naranco sites and San Julian de los Prados church ARE breathtaking though. I walked round San Julian with my jaw hanging open. I can't recall if Easter is one of the days the Sudarium is on display so might be a consideration. On the whole as a more secular tourist walker I probably wouldn't go out my way to visit Oviedo, for the more spiritual or traditionally minded then it might be different. However I imagine it's a good place for a fiesta.

 

[peregrina2000]

Just so you won't have an easy decision to make, I'll take the position that is polar opposite to Stuart's. I love Oviedo, and I have walked through there at least half a dozen times, and each time I try to take an extra day to visit. I think it is a beautiful small city with a very high level of civic pride and many wonderful public spaces for all to enjoy. Where else can you find a statue of Woodie Alan, a Botero statue of a mother and child, and a modern statue that appears to portray the human derriere (referred to in Oviedo as "El Culo." The large in-town park is very nice, but the park on the edge of town near the University is my favorite. The parque del Invierno, is a large expanse with many trails, snow capped mountains in the back, and green hills all around. And don't get me started on the pre-romanesque churches Stuart has already described, though I realize that is an acquired taste for many people. And as Stuart also mentions, the Cathedral, its treasures, and the statue of El Salvador have a lot of religious significance (aside from being quite visit-worthy in a secular vein as well).

When I walked the Norte in 2006, I did what you describe -- went down from Villaviciosa to Oviedo (there is a new albergue there on the way now, in Pola de Siero, which will make the journey much more pleasant). The benefit of taking that route is that you can take a tiny detour off to see another spectacular pre-romanesque church at Valdedios, in a beautiful valley setting.

The way from Villaviciosa to Oviedo is well marked and easy. But we had a terrible time getting from Oviedo back up to Aviles. Some comments here: http://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/norte-to-primitivo.19695/#post-147208

It is of course possible that the route has been better marked since then, maybe someone who has been there more recently can tell us.

Lots of fun decisions to make! Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. And Cudillero, about 3 km (?) off the Camino, is a touristy but great place to spend a night - its position in a cove on the ocean is amazing, lovely walks and views.

 

[jl]

When I walked the Norte in 2009, I had to have a very planned itinerary (which I didn't stick to I might add!) so that I knew I could fit things into the 90 days Schengen Visa thing (I had left from Troyes in France). I planned both the Norte and the Primitivo from Oviedo, making the decision of whichone i would take when I got there. I ended up choosing the Primitivo and taking the Hospitales route. I hope to do the rest of the del norte next year. Like Laurie I loved Oviedo, and I especially enjoyed heading into the mountains after walking along the coast. Just something else for you to contemplate. Janet

 

[peregrina2000]

Jl, I completely agree with you. People frequently ask me which I would recommend at Villaviciosa, continuing on the Norte or heading south for Oviedo and the Primitivo. My own rationale was like this -- I decided I would never go back just to walk the Norte from Villaviciosa, but that since the Primitivo starts in Oviedo, I would be likely to return to do that. So I stuck with the Norte in 2006 or 7 and went back to walk the Salvador/Primitivo in 2008. The combination between the coast of the Norte and the hills of the Primitivo would be a perfect match, though, so it's not that I would try to discourage anyone from doing it. But for me, if you are going to walk the Primitivo, the absolute best way to do it is to start in Leon and add on the gorgeous Salvador, another 4-5 days.

And as many others have noted, what will probably tilt your scale will be where your Camino family decides to go when you hit Villaviciosa. Both are great choices. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Tia Valeria]

I have just seen, from your 'Caminos past and future', that you plan to walk the Norte in April of 2014. That means that the direct Norte route might be the best option weatherwise, although personally the route via Oviedo would be my choice. However a return to the Norte would need checking that it isn't high altitude, and we have not actually walked that section. Some-one will know I am sure.
Buen Camino