Camino Vadiniense

[psheehan]

Day 1: Potes to Espinama.

A wonderful day of walking with stunning views of the Picos.

In Saint Toribo Monastery I enquired in the gift shop about the certificate for having walked the Liebaniego but I was told they do not issue certificates anymore. I then followed the plentiful yellow arrows towards Espinama. The way is very well marked with yellow arrows. I kept following the arrows but I didn't get to Camaleno, I could see it from the Camino but I couldn't see how to get down to it. Later on I passed through the villages of Redo and Mogroveno before following the signs down into Los Llanos for a very welcome bocadillo.

Leaving Los Llanos the grassy path is now very well sign posted with multiple yellow arrows. From Cosgaya to Espinama is also well marked with a lovely walk through the forests. Espinama is a charming little village. I'm staying in Albergue Briz, 15 euro and I have the place to myself.

 

[gerardcarey]

Tks for you notes.
Keep it up!
Regds
Gerard

 

[peregrina2000]

Would love to hear more!

 

[psheehan]

Day 2: Espinama to Portilla de La Reina.

What an amazing day... Simply Stunning are the words to describe the scenery and the way. From Espinama the route is very well marked through Pido and Fuente De with lots of easy to find yellow arrows. The yellow arrows continue all the ways up and over the highest peak at Horcado Valcavao. As per Rebekah's notes I followed the arrows to the left but after about 10 minutes walking, there is a big yellow arrow painted on a cement bollard lying flat on the ground and pointing into the grazing area on the left. I had a look for further arrows for about half an hour and just as I was about to give up and follow the wide road as recommended, I met a local farmer who pointed me in the direction from the grazing area so I decided to follow his directions down the valley. After about an hour of walking in the direction of Portilla de la Reina I came across a solitary blue and yellow 'Ruta Vadiniense' sign pointing down the valley. After about another 45 minutes I was onto the paved mountain road and continued to Portilla de la Reina. I wouldn't recommend this diversion as it's not clearly marked but the big yellow arrow pointing into the grazing area is very confusing.

Staying in Albergue Portilla de la Reina. I'm the only person here as well.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

this is news to me. I hope o t hers are not led astray, that is not a good place to get lost in!
Thanks for the warning. Buen camino!

 

[psheehan]

Hi Rebekah,

I took photos of the yellow arrow on the cement bollard... I'll post a link to the photos on my return home so you can see what I mean.

Paul.

 

[psheehan]

Day 3: Portilla de La Reina to Riano.

Nice flat walk today... after all the inclines and declines yesterday my legs appreciated the easy walking day. Had a late morning coffee in the very friendly Venta de Eslona and then continued onto the Hotel Tierra de la Reina in Boca de Huergano for a lunch stop.

After leaving the hotel I took the 'off highway' alternative after passing Hermita de San Tirso, but after about 50 meters I had to revert to the highway as the alternative track was under water. I could see the track under the water but the reservoir must be very high this time of year. Even the trees are half submerged. I continued onto Riano and I've booked into the recommended Hostal Riano, en-suite double room for €35. The Cafeteria Tanis downstairs is 'Se Alquila'. Excellent meal in Hotel Presa.

 

[peregrina2000]

Your reports are triggering great memories!

I slept and ate in Hotel Presa, isn't it a funny little town? I kind of wish I had gone up to the albergue, because it looks like a nice place, but when I got to town, I just decided to stop.

Enjoy tomorrow's lovely walk. You will pass by a little fishing cabin where Francisco Franco used to come to fish, and say what you want about the man, his tastes in accommodation were certainly simple!

That walk up along the river is lovely. Are you going to stay in the Ventasierra? If so, try to get a back room, so you can hear the amazing rush of water all night.

Albergues in Cistierna and Gradefes are quite nice -- let us know about the now marked alternative that Reb described after Gradefes, or is it between Cistierna and Gradefes? Reb, refresh my recollection.

Hope you get a chance to visit San Miguel de la Escalada if you haven't already, because it is a stunning place. Opening times may not work well with your walking schedule, but if it were me, I'd hang around a bit to get inside. But not everyone is a fanatic about these ancient churches like I am. Buen camino! What are your plans from Leon onwards?

Laurie

 

[psheehan]

Hi Laurie,

Riano was definitely the strangest 'town' I've stayed in... But also rather interesting... It made a lot more sense after the waiter in Hotel Presa explained that the town is only 27 years old. I too would like to have seen the albergue but I didn't fancy the 2km each way to come back into town.

The weather is gorgeous here at the moment and the reservoir is quiet high... I've taken a couple hundred photos since San Vicente... I'll post a link to them after I get home.

Yes, tonight I'm staying in Ventasierra, thanks for the tip on getting a room at the back. I definitely want to stay in the albergues after tonight to see what they're like.

After Leon it's home until the Camino Ingles in September.

Saludos,

Paul.

 

[psheehan]

Day 4: Riano to Venta de Valdore.

Following a very good breakfast in Bar El Mentidero in Riano it was another great days walking thanks to blue skies and wonderful vistas, coupled with some nice off road walking sections. The trail is well marked down towards Carande and onwards to the lovely little village of Horcadas where I stopped for a refreshing drink from the very friendly Señora Loli in the village Bar.

About 5 kms after Horcadas on the N-621 highway brings you to the tunnel Remonila and the dam. At the end of the tunnel there is a big blue sign directing you into a shorter tunnel on the left and onwards to Las Salas. Before turning left at this sign it's worth taking a look at the dam on one side and the high level of the water in the reservoir on the other side.

After a welcome section of off road walking I crossed the bridge to Las Salas in the hope of some lunch. The Hostal Las Pintas is closed with a 'Se Vende' sign on the window. There is another new looking bar further down the street with no name on it but they don't do bocadillos or any other food, so I carried on to Cremenes and had some really great Raciones in Centro de Turismo Rural Huedle. Before leaving Cremenes I tried to find the shop but according to a local man the shop has closed down.

The most enjoyable section of today's walk has to be the section between Cremenes and Venta de Valdore on the roman road. This section takes about an hour and affords some great views of the surrounding mountains and looking down at the fast flowing river.

Tonight I'm staying in Hostal Ventasierra in Venta De Valdore with a room at the back of the hotel (thanks Laurie ), the sun shining in the bedroom window and all I can hear is the rushing river. The hotel is actually very nice with very comfortable double rooms for €30. Just had dinner in the Restaurante, the fish soup is so delicious I have to post a photo.


In my opinion Hostal Ventasierra deserves a strong recommendation!!!

 

[psheehan]

Day 5: Venta de Valdore to Cistierna.

Even though today's walk was only 13 kms it still took me 4 hours, this was mostly to do with the very welcoming track of country lanes and pathways. The way is sufficiently waymarked to Alejico. After passing the suspension bridge and following the Ruta Vadiniense signs into Alejico the first confusion of the day began... I could not locate any signs in Alejico, so I decided to follow the river. A few reassuring yellow arrows would be very useful here. A little further along I came to the highway underpass and continued following the arrows.

I continued past the remains of the coal processing plant, which does have a very spooky feel about it. After passing the coal processing plant, I found the notes to be frustrating and confusing!!! The confusing part was looking for the 'heavy gate with a private property sign', the gate in question turned out to be a regular gate in a field to stop cows from getting out of the field!!! There is no private property sign on it. I was also trying to figure what a 'Millrace' is!!!

My advice on this section is to continue past the coal processing plant for about 20 minutes on the path used by local walkers and cyclists, go through the green gate and continue straight ahead until you come to the electricity generator. A few more yellow arrows on the this section would make a big difference.

After passing the CH Pena Corcida electricity generator, follow the yellow signs at the roundabout pointing to the left under the highway, continue up the short slip road to the highway and then turn right (not left) past kilometre marker 144 (not 44). Continue across the bridge over the Rio Esla, take the first exit off the roundabout and head into Cistierna on Avenue de Constitucion.

The albergue is easy enough to find as per the notes. As it was Sunday I phoned one of the 4 telephone numbers posted on the albergue door and a very obliging man arrived to book me in and provide me with a set of keys.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Paul, yes, I got lost in this coal processing plant area, too. And it is a pretty spooky place. I only realized I was wrong when I hit the river and couldn't figure out what to do. I then backtracked and passed a place that looked like a loading dock with old tracks coming into it -- did you see that?

If I remember correctly, when I found the gate with the private property sign, I then turned right and came to the channel (I think that's the millrace, but we need Reb's input here because it was her choice of word -- I admit I didn't know what it was either ). Maybe you found a gate closer to the channel? And I will correct my notes with the mistakes into Cistierna, thanks much for that.

Maybe among the three of us, we can come up with some better instructions for navigating the coal plant. Only a few more days for you, will you get to visit San Miguel de la Escalada? Buen camino, I think tomorrow's walk into Gradefes involves some of the re-routed camino. I remember a long slog on sunny roads (after some very nice shaded kms through small villages and along streams) and I think Reb's notes suggested some shortening by criss-crossing fields.

 

[psheehan]

Hi Laurie,

The Coal Processing Plant was definitely confusing but at all times the river was on my left. I took some photos of the route including the gate and the picnic tables, I'll post a link to the photos when I get home, this might help in updating the notes.

I'll definitely take a look at San Miguel de la Escalada after Gradefes tomorrow. I'm sitting having desayuno in Hostal El Cruce waiting for the supermercado to open for some provisions to walk the west side of the Esla to Gradefes.

Restaurants Moderno was excellent last night, thanks!

Paul.

 

[econodan]

Thanks for these detailed notes, Paul. We'll be following in your footsteps in July, and this additional information will be helpful.
Buen camino.
Dan

 

[psheehan]

No problem Dan.

 

[psheehan]

Day 6: Cistierna to Gradefes.

I took the quieter option out of Cistierna following the yellow arrows where they begin on Calle Las Eras off Constitution Avenue. After following the arrows under the railway track and under the highway the route joins a quiet road at La Cruz Del Molino. I took the West Side route and enjoyed a lovely peaceful walk along quiet roads and pathways through fields. As there are no eateries along this route I stocked up on some provisions in the supermercado before leaving Cistierna. The route is very well marked with Ruta Vadiniense and yellow arrows to guide you all the ways to Gradefes.

In the little village of Carbajal de Rueda the owner of the Embutidos shop opened up and sold me some delicious chorizo and cheese.

I arrived in Gradefes and got no answer from the 2 phone numbers posted on the albergue door, so off I went to enquire from the local barman and he found a man to take me to the ayuntamiento office to sign and get a key. The albergue is really nice, it's a modern apartment converted into an albergue with a full kitchen including washing machine.

I hadn't noticed anywhere to eat so I bought some food in the friendly supermercado and made use of the great kitchen in the albergue.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Paul,
I think susanna and I will be taking part of this stage in a few weeks when we walk the Camino Olvidado. It goes through Cistierna and then there is a turn-off a few kms later on from the west side of the river route that you followed. Enjoy the last part of your Vadiniense! Laurie

 

[psheehan]

Day 7: Gradefes to Mansilla de las Mulas.

Another unnecessary frustrating search for arrows this morning. Not sure what is meant by a 'blacktop' road but I headed to the only bridge I could find to locate the dirt road but the only dirt road I could find at the bridge led me back to behind the albergue. After asking a local man, I was directed down the road leading out of Gradefes, where 20 minutes later I found the bus stop and a very small little bridge. From this point I followed the arrows to Cifuentas. My advise on leaving Gradefes is... As you leave the albergue, turn left and continue on the road out of town, after 20 minutes you will see the bus stop with the arrows beside it. A yellow arrow outside the albergue would be very useful.

On the way into Cifuentas de Reuda there is a wooden post with an arrow on it propped up against a wall, leaving the village there is also a yellow arrow. Further on there are arrows pointing to Casasola, and then a long road walk to San Miguel de Escalada.

After leaving San Miguel monastery, I continued to the end of the town, the 'Ruta Vadiniense' sign points right up past the church where a yellow arrow points out to the cart tracks through the fields to Puente Villarnte. There is also a sign at the end of the town pointing straight ahead if you want to walk to Mansilla on the road. I took the Ruta Vadiniense to the right but after about 20 minutes there is a fork in the path with no arrows!!! I took the left hand path assuming this would lead towards Mansilla but after about 45 minutes this path came to an end. Rather than walk back to the fork and try another direction with no arrows, I scrambled down the side of a hill and joined the asphalt road into Mansilla. Again, the difference a few arrows would make.

If the Amigos association in Cistierna are interested in promoting Ruta Vadiniense they need to put up a few more arrows!!!

At Villacontilde I had a look for the arrows to follow the shortcut, but alas no arrows so I continued on the road into Mansilla.

Overall, the Ruta Vadiniense is an excellent Camino, with amazing mountains, off road walking and great accommodation and food. However, for the middle of May it is a very quiet Camino, the only time I saw other peregrinos was in the albergue in Potes, I met nobody else on the Camino, I was the only person in all the other albergues and usually the only person in the restaurants. Also, I certainly would not have attempted to walk this Camino without Rebekah and Laurie's notes, mucho Gracias to both of you.

Now I am in Mansilla and have joined up with the throngs of peregrinos on the Camino Frances for a short walk into Leon tomorrow.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Paul, congrats!

It seems to me that you are well poised to consider this alternative to Santa Maria de Villaverde de Sandoval. Not sure really how well preserved it is, but since Mansilla is such a short day you might be in an exploring mood! I would have done it a couple of years ago but my toes were a bloody mess and I needed a few days' rest in Leon. Buen camino. Laurie

http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...-santa-maria-de-villaverde-de-sandoval.12809/

 

[psheehan]

Hi Laurie,

My legs and my head made the decision this morning to auto pilot to Leon with all the other CF peregrinos... It also rained all the way there... So I'll have to wait another day for the alternative route...

Saludos,

Paul.

 

[oursonpolaire]

I am sorry to hear that the hostal in Las Salas has closed. The landlord was very friendly and gave me a bottle of wine for the road at breakfast the next morning!

 

[psheehan]

Here's a link to my recent Camino Vadiniense photos.. apologies for the large number of photos... with such beautiful scenery I was very snap happy!!! Hopefully they will convey to would be Vadiniense pilgrims what this route has to offer...

https://plus.google.com/photos/1135...ms/6017648587009159281?authkey=CJnwuLSllfjkIQ