Camino San Salvador Very Busy

[mikevasey]

Hi Just to let pilgrims know who are thinking of walking this route in the next 7-8 weeks that this route could be very busy.
Me and my girlfriend walked from Leon on the 1st of July to Oviedo yesterday, because we did it over 8 days we were the first to the Albergues but they would usually get full later, nearly all Spaniards going to Oviedo and then on to the Primitivo. Oviedo yesterday was very busy and the places 40/50 in the Albergue de Peregrinos had gone by 12 to 1 o clock.

For information Cabinallas there was 3 of us in the 4 bed albergue, 14 in La Robla(16 beds), 3 in Buzia(16Beds),
10 in Poladura (8 beds), 15 in Pajares (13 beds)- there was one very disgruntled looking swiss guy who I think thought he was going to walk a quiet route, marissa the hospitalera cooks food here, usually you have to give advance notice, she was locking the kitchen when she was not there, it had all her food in. Stayed in Compomanes the next night in a nice Casa Rural, got very wet this day,my expensive waterproofs decided that I should have reproofed them before I walked and decided to not to be waterproof anymore as the heavens opened and made the hard route from Pajares even more harder, my gfs 2 euro see through plastic poncho passed with flying colours. In Mieres there was 5 of us, its not that bad, yes the area is a little run down but everyone is very friendly, I did notice about a km on the next day a Posada called the camino de santiago, so maybe that is an option for people who dont feel comfortable staying there on their own.

The route is stunninly beautiful at times, the lead up to Poladura for us was like spring had just broke out on a hot day and millions of different coloured flowers and butterflys came out to play and greet us. The view at the pass of Pajares, WOW! and if I hadnt been so wet and cold on the way from Pajares the route after Puente de Ferros would have just been that more special.

Another little warning, after Poladura you eventually come to a steep field and you descend to a path on your left after about 200 meters, the field is fill of cows, BULLS and calves. One of the bulls went bravo on us and we had to leg it. When we got to the albergue in Pajares a group of blokes from Huelva said they had the same experience and had to leg it as well, so just be careful if you have to walk through them.

Saw an entry from Laurie from the US in the peregrinos book at La Robla dated 2nd July we arrived at 1 o clock that day, and saw an entry from an Alan Turner in one of the Peregrino post boxes dated about the 30/31 May.

Might do this route again It was a lot more than i was expecting.

Buen Camino Pilgrims

 

[Al the optimist]

Wow! Just shows how timing is all important. Started the 30th May and had gorgeous weather to enjoy the spectacular views. Every night saw the same people in the albergues, seven of us in total. Great weather, great views, great company! Marissa in Parajes was absolutely wonderful. I arrived much earlier than the others who always took a long time to go from A to B anyway and I knew that one of them had sprained an ankle the day before. I let her know they would be along eventually, that two of the girls were vegetarian, and that I was sure the rest of us would be happy to have the same as them. So she arranged a vegetarian menu. She was helpful, pleasant and full of fun. I don't know weather it was because the 5 girls all live in Munich (two are Spanish) or not, but all the beer in the vending machine soon disappeared!

 

[fortview]

Extraordinary! We walked mid September, and saw a grand total of 5 pilgrims in six days! We were all on our own in la Robla, with one other in Pajares, and one in Mieres. And we were so lucky with the weather at that time of year as well...

 

[StuartM]

Wow I walked the end of August last year and saw only one other pilgrim. Although a day behind me was a humungous group from one of the Camino societies along the route walking to Oviedo. I saw maybe 30 arrive the next day.

 

[Kiwi-family]

In June our first couple of days there were just three others - then, hello, we turned up at that grotty-ish little donativo and two other guys were already there! (They were doing shorter stages). We all became good friends - but it was pretty quiet. The Prmimtivo, on the other hand, was largely booked out for us but quiet for those who started a couple of days later.

 

[GunnarW]

This is good news for the Camino Del Salvador.
Mike, do you have an idea why this camino is now close to saturation? Is it because the Frances is oversaturated and pilgrims are diverting to Oviedo - Primitivo/Norte?

Laurie passed in La Robla doing the Camino Olvidado. It starts in Bilbao, crosses La Robla from east to west and continues to Ponferrada. As I'm writing for the moment, she finished the Olvidado and is now on the Frances just after Ponferrada, maybe in Cacabelos or Villafranca del Bierzo.

 

[Tincatinker]

This is good news for the Camino Del Salvador.

Gunnar, I have to agree this is great news for the route but it adds a challenge for the average pilgrim. There are very few alternatives when it comes to accommodation. On my Salvador, 12 - 17 June, I did always find a bed but that was in part because I co-incided with a Spanish hiking group who very kindly bagged me a bunk on a couple of occasions (there were enough of them to cause sufficient confusion). They had seen my problems getting started in the mornings and knew I would be well behind them. La Robla, Poladura and Pajares were all complet by lights-out. Pola de Lena had a few beds spare, Mieres was empty, but that's another story.

I met mostly Spaniards on the route, one Italian, two French, most with the view that the Frances was too busy, too commercialised and a couple of rude Spanish words that I can't translate.

And I heartily agree with Al that Marissa at Pajares is absolutely wonderful: she cooked my supper for 7:30, everyone else ate at 8:30 (9:00!), "its better for the English, they don't eat late".

 

[jpflavin1]

I walked this route in April 2013 and never saw another soul. I believe the time of year is a contributing factor to Pilgrim volume. This route can also can be combined with the Primitivo for a nice three week walk.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[teda]

Hi, this discussion made me a little bit worried... I'm planning to to go this route in September, but if there are such problems... I don't know.

 

[angulero]

No creo que en septiembre haya problemas, no debería haberlos.

I do not think any trouble in September, there should not be.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi mike. Yes, Gunnar is right that I was in la Robla when my Camino Olvidado crossed the Salvador.

If you read Mike's post carefully he isn't saying that people are sleeping on the ground or rushing for beds, just that sometimes the albergues are near capacity. This shouldn't dissuade anyone. I'm in O Cebreiro today and the albergue has been full since 2 pm, but the hoards keep coming. "Crowded" on the Salvador is very relative.

Its beauty, however, is definitely not relative. Buen camino, Laurie.

 

[Simon Shum]

I just completed C. San Salvador and Primitivo from May 26 to June 16. Met only two other guys, one from France and one from Spain for the five days in C. Salvador. Blessed with good weather, fantastic walk, and like to do that again! And thanks to Ender for the very very helpful yellow arrows! Did got lost in Leon making the mistake of crossing the river by the parador with the Camino Frances crowd but found my way back!
Simon Shum

 

[mikevasey]

Hola from the Primitivo! I think but I am not 100% about it that a lot of Spanish are treating the Salvador as a pre primitivo camino which could mean that the rest of July and August will be very busy, or I might have just walked at a time of a blip, time will tell.
For info my gf got her Salvadorian at the cathedral and it was 4 euros, if she had gone to the albergue it would have been 2.50. Boulevard Gascona has some very good places to eat on it in Oviedo, follow the norte scallop shells from the marker at the front of the cathedral and you will be on it in 80 metres.
The Primitivo is ever so busy but thankfully (for me) the pilgrims are following the suggested stages. Borres will be packed tomorrow its like everyone I have met today is determined to be there, when I have suggested dropping back 5 km people generally dismiss it, the only other person who is doing it is an American called Scott who started in Vezlay on the 17th May for his first Camino, not a bad way to start this addiction.
Gunnar the Salvador is a brilliant Camino Have not watched your series of videos yet but feel its on the cards, have yet to watch the final parts of your Frances ones they just make me want to walk it again.
Buen Camino Pilgrims

 

[mikevasey]

And Casa Herminia is packed as well, I arrived at 4.38 if I had been 20 minutes later it would have been plan B, hadn't worked out what it was, seen a lot of brassed of pilgrims who have walked from salas and further in the last hour look not too happy when they were told their was no space. I stayed in LA espina last night, bodenya had 21, el texu the new private one had 11, and the donativo crucero was complete, in Tineo the municipal had 23 last night, I spoke to the hospitalero on the way through,and I am not sure what the the other hostel had.And there is a lot of pilgrims wild camping so all in all it is a very busy route at the moment.

 

[angulero]

Creo que el problema es que cada vez más peregrinos hacen la transición del Norte al Primitivo, ya que aunque desde hace unos días están pasando bastante peregrinos por mi pueblo, en mi opinión son muchos que estos años atrás. Además, según lo que decís, estos días también hay mucho peregrino haciendo el Salvador, y seguro que muchos de ellos continúan por el Primitivo.

I think the problem is that more and more pilgrims make the transition of North to Primitivo, as though the last few days many pilgrims are passing through my town, in my opinion these many years ago. Furthermore, as you say, these days there are lots pilgrim doing the Savior, and I'm sure many of them continue the Primitivo.

 

[jpflavin1]

I agree that many are probably transitioning from the Norte. About half the Pilgrims I walked with this Spring switched to the Primitivo in Oviedo.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[kellyz]

Another little warning, after Poladura you eventually come to a steep field and you descend to a path on your left after about 200 meters, the field is fill of cows, BULLS and calves. One of the bulls went bravo on us and we had to leg it. When we got to the albergue in Pajares a group of blokes from Huelva said they had the same experience and had to leg it as well, so just be careful if you have to walk through them.

It's fun to see others posting about this beautiful valley field. I walked the Salvador in late June 2012 (I only ran into three other pilgrims then) and had a terrifying moment there. Not only were their bulls, I was totally lost. I ended up scrambling up the side of the steep valley to get away from the heard and followed the power lines down. I don't know if I was every in any real danger, but it took me some time to get over my fear of any horned cattle. But, interestingly, I did read that the adolescent males are more dangerous than the bulls--curious and impulsive, I guess.

 

[mikevasey]

I am a bit nervous of cattle, but in this instance said to the gf get behind me and lets walk tranquillo through them, we were OK for the first 20 metres then one to our right started to get a bit 'playfull' so we ran to our left and into the gauze which was behind a semi delapilated wire fence. We stood there for 20 minutes watching the steers playfully lock horns and a giant bull going around proving who was boss, the cows were even edgy chasing away any steers who were going near the calves. In the end we decided to work a way through the gauze to the path which was about 50 metres below us going off the field to the left and upwards.We could also see the little pueblo and train station down at the bottom of the valley, but that would have meant going through a lot more cattle. At the time its not funny but afterwards it all makes up for a little adventure.

 

[Al the optimist]

At least you didn't get bitten by the big black dog leaving Poladura like I did.

 

[mikevasey]

No, but I had you're post in mind when I arrived in Poladura, the dogs were friendly enough when we were there, but a couple who walked in to Pajares after us told of having difficulty in with a big dog in Poladura. I think it was better for the dog it did not encounter us, when its myself I can just switch off and go through the motions to get out of the situation but macho pride probably wouldn't let me edge out of their if I felt my gf was in danger.

 

[peregrina2000]

At least you didn't get bitten by the big black dog leaving Poladura like I did.

No, but I had you're post in mind when I arrived in Poladura, the dogs were friendly enough when we were there, but a couple who walked in to Pajares after us told of having difficulty in with a big dog in Poladura. I think it was better for the dog it did not encounter us, when its myself I can just switch off and go through the motions to get out of the situation but macho pride probably wouldn't let me edge out of their if I felt my gf was in danger.

My understanding is that Ender found the owner and spoke with him and his family. Apparently the owner has some sort of disability but Ender thought that things would be taken care of.

 

[peregrina2000]

News flash on the Salvador. Yesterday the 500th pilgrim of the year slept in Pola de Lena. http://www.lne.es/cuencas/2014/08/22/500-peregrinos-lena/1631893.html

That may not seem like a lot, but I have walked twice (2011 and 2008 I think) and I was totally alone both times I slept in Pola de Lena (and in Pajares as well)! The article says that the numbers have been doubling every year for the last few years. Kind of like the Levante, the totals are low but the trajectories are pretty straight up if they keep doubling every year.

One other thing -- the article mentions an albergue in Campomanes, but I think that must be a mistake because if you spent one night in Campomanes you are very unlikely to spend the next night 8 km later in Pola de Lena. But I'd be interested to hear if anyone has heard of an albergue opening in Campomanes.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

News flash on the Salvador. Yesterday the 500th pilgrim of the year slept in Pola de Lena. http://www.lne.es/cuencas/2014/08/22/500-peregrinos-lena/1631893.html

That may not seem like a lot, but I have walked twice (2011 and 2008 I think) and I was totally alone both times I slept in Pola de Lena (and in Pajares as well)! The article says that the numbers have been doubling every year for the last few years. Kind of like the Levante, the totals are low but the trajectories are pretty straight up if they keep doubling every year.

One other thing -- the article mentions an albergue in Campomanes, but I think that must be a mistake because if you spent one night in Campomanes you are very unlikely to spend the next night 8 km later in Pola de Lena. But I'd be interested to hear if anyone has heard of an albergue opening in Campomanes.

Saw no info about albergue in Campomanes when I slept there August 2. And Ender didn't say anything about it the night before either.

 

[Al the optimist]

I stayed in a hostal in Campomanes this June. I had a wander around most of the town but didn't see an albergue.

 

[angulero]

A día 22 de agosto, se llevan contabilizados quinientos peregrinos en Pola de Lena.

A August 22, five hundred pilgrims take recorded in Pola de Lena.

http://www.lne.es/cuencas/2014/08/22/500-peregrinos-lena/1631893.html

Los 500 peregrinos de Lena
El albergue de la Pola alcanzó el miércoles, con la llegada del caminante Antonio Jarit, el medio millar de usuarios en lo que va de año
22.08.2014 | 05:51

Jarit, con el obsequio en la mano, junto a peregrinos y empleados del albergue.

• Fotos de la noticia

Pola de Lena, C. M. BASTEIRO Antonio Jarit Cobos se convirtió el miércoles en el peregrino número 500 que ha pernoctado este año en el albergue del Hotel de Asociaciones de Pola de Lena. El Ayuntamiento quiso celebrar su llegada y entregó al caminante, un apasionado del concejo y sus paisajes, un diploma y un obsequio de recuerdo.

Es la tercera vez que Antonio Jarit Cobos hace el Camino de Santiago por la variante del Camino del Salvador. La noche antes de llegar a Pola de Lena durmió en el albergue de Campomanes y el peregrino sólo tenía buenas palabras para los establecimientos y para el concejo: "Están muy cuidados, me gusta mucho esta zona porque permite el auténtico ideal que persigue el peregrino, que es la tranquilidad", destacó. También pidió al Ayuntamiento que no deje que el Camino del Salvador "muera de éxito ya que, cuando se llena de gente, la ruta pierde toda su identidad".

Las encargadas de entregar los obsequios a Jarit fueron la vicealcaldesa, Gema Álvarez, y la coordinadora del albergue de peregrinos, Merce Díez. También estuvieron presentes los empleados del Hotel de Asociaciones, Luis "Pibe" Puente y Paloma Gutiérrez. El concejal de Turismo, Rolando Díaz, aprovechó la ocasión para alabar el "excelente trabajo" de los empleados municipales. El Ayuntamiento culminó las celebraciones con un desayuno especial para el peregrino número 500 y el resto de caminantes que durmieron el miércoles en el albergue de la Pola.

 

[Pilar]

I started from Leon on August 29th. I was alone in La Robla until two bikers showed up late. I was the only pilgrim at Posada Embrujo in Poladura de Tercia and no pilgrims at the albergue. I was the only one at albergue in Pajares and had nothing to eat. Bar didn't open. Marissa did not cook. I am in Pola de Lena now and the only one here. Guess timing is everything. Oviedo tomorrow and then will see what is happening with the Primitivo.