Juliet Clark
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Camiino de Santiago 2012
I walked the Camino Portuguese September 2017 from Lisbon to Santiago. While I will comment on the section from Lisbon to Porto in another post, this post is to encourage pilgrims to take the beautiful Variante Espiritual. Total of 4 days and 3 nights to Santiago. The walk from Porto to Pontevedra is relatively flat so if you're up for a change of walk dynamics from Pontevedra you will scale the mountains to Monasterio Armentiera 21kms. Leaving the beautiful coastline it's up through little villages secluded from the hustle of life below and a slow climb into thick forest filled with birds, good dirt roads (no cobblestones), and a more ethereal medieval pathway. Cut down into the valley of the monastery and stay overnight for 20 euros or walk another km to the lovely new albergue situated on the opposite side from the monastery about 6 euros. Sorry I didn't write the name of the albergue but there is only one and plenty of beds. Wonder back to the monastery and visit the pub for a dinner of mouthwatering scallops and then attend Vespers at the monastery 7pm.
The next day walk to Villanova 25kms, but don't be so keen to start before sunrise as you will miss the most beautiful walk in the entire Camino Portuguese. The Water & Stone walk as it's known follows an ancient wooded pathway beside a remote mountain stream where medieval corn mills still stand sentinel to an ancient feudal culture. This deserves your time, tread lightly and breathe slow. I wondered if St James actually walked here...
Try to take a pause and say Hi to Alfonso who may be sitting outside the little stone church on your right hand side offering a stamp (for the credential), an orange and a chat. I can't say exactly where this church is, so pay attention. If he likes you he might invite you to his beautiful stone house in Villanova for home hospitality, a warm bed, local food cooked with love and wonderful conversation. Hint - not every pilgrim is invited!
Then the following day - just when I thought camino couldn't get any better - Alfonso organised tickets to take the boat up River Ulla to Pontecesures at sunrise. St James' body was smuggled up the river so this is the last of an amazing link to Santiago. One day to go, stay wherever you feel compelled and then the final day into Santiago is leisurely! Bom Camino.
The next day walk to Villanova 25kms, but don't be so keen to start before sunrise as you will miss the most beautiful walk in the entire Camino Portuguese. The Water & Stone walk as it's known follows an ancient wooded pathway beside a remote mountain stream where medieval corn mills still stand sentinel to an ancient feudal culture. This deserves your time, tread lightly and breathe slow. I wondered if St James actually walked here...
Try to take a pause and say Hi to Alfonso who may be sitting outside the little stone church on your right hand side offering a stamp (for the credential), an orange and a chat. I can't say exactly where this church is, so pay attention. If he likes you he might invite you to his beautiful stone house in Villanova for home hospitality, a warm bed, local food cooked with love and wonderful conversation. Hint - not every pilgrim is invited!
Then the following day - just when I thought camino couldn't get any better - Alfonso organised tickets to take the boat up River Ulla to Pontecesures at sunrise. St James' body was smuggled up the river so this is the last of an amazing link to Santiago. One day to go, stay wherever you feel compelled and then the final day into Santiago is leisurely! Bom Camino.