peregrina09
New Member
Reading posts in this forum was an important part of planning my walk at the end of May 2009. I would like to share my own experiences, in case they might be helpful to future pilgrims -- as all of your contributions were to me.
Certain stages of this route were TOUGH – physically demanding and the terrain proved a significant challenge. In spite of my best intentions, I was not prepared with the proper equipment, nor did I have an idea of just how difficult the paths and weather conditions would be. The first week in Asturias was predominantly foggy, misty and rainy. Though I only walked one full day in heavy rain – night time rainfall left many trails in Asturias wet and MUDDY.
I had purchased high quality walking shoes, which served me well in Galicia, but at times were a major impediment in Asturias. My socks and feet were constantly wet for a week. I would imagine that the weather in Asturias is variable depending on the time of year – but please consider the needs of your feet for these two very different areas of Spain.
Though the kms of the stages in Asturias may seem manageable distances – one must consider that walking there consists of constant climbing up - sometimes sharply steep - mountain paths and descending down again into valleys – over and over. Both can be hard on the knees and slow one down a great deal.
Were I to walk this route again – I would consider bringing shoes for wet and dry walking conditions. I realize that might add bulk to my pack. But in the long run – socks and footwear are crucial to a comfortable experience. And I would consider giving 13 - 14 days to reach Santiago.
Peregrina 2000 “Laurie” - posted an excellent description that I viewed many times. I believe she also contributed to the CSJ guide update – which I carried with me on the walk. She makes special notes of muddy areas on the route between Salas and Tineo. She is correct!!! If you are prepared with the proper water/mud resistant foot wear – then proceed – otherwise consider her alternate suggestions.
Having said all that: I wouldn’t trade any part of my experience or difficulty. Everything that we went through made us stronger and appreciate our arrival in Santiago all the more. And muddy or not, woodland paths are usually more pleasant than walking on asphalt. Just consider your footwear!
DOGS
I encountered many dogs on this route. Almost every farm has a dog and every dog has something to “say” about your walking into his territory. 97% are on leashes and just make a lot of noise – Maybe 3 or 4 were unleashed – and most stared at us, but left us alone. Possibly around Villardongo, when alone, an unleashed dog came after me, barking and giving concerning signals – but ultimately I kept walking and was not harmed. I was a little scared then though.
OVIEDO
I visited the churches of San Miguel de Lillo and Santa Maria del Naranco on my first day in Oviedo, where I stayed overnight to get myself oriented. The hill where the churches are located overlooking the city, is fairly steep and distant. I took a taxi there, which was reasonably priced. If you decide to visit here separately from the Camino - take the cell phone number of your driver, if possible, for the return visit back to the Oviedo town center. If you are walking there, the guide explains how you may visit and rejoin the Camino without backtracking.
For the start of my walk from Oviedo to Grado, I had the CSJ guide - as well as the city tourist map for the Camino in English. I still got lost leaving Oviedo several times! It was MUCH harder to get out of the city than I anticipated. If I attempted it today, I could probably find my way without any map. But at the time – I was flustered and lost an hour and a half. Sometimes the shells are helpful, and sometimes there are not enough to let you know if you're going the right way. I feel this could be made clearer for pilgrims.
For those who consider starting from Oviedo Cathedral and following the embedded shells to the outskirts of town – a big part of the adventure – I will try to describe where I went wrong:
It was at the point of trying to find Calle de la Arañgosa – and it was tricky for some reason. When I crossed over from the Calle de la Independencia to what the guide describes as a “roundabout” - the shell on the ground was pointing in an ambiguous manner – making me think I should go right... There was no other waymark nearby to give me a sense of direction here – and I was disoriented. Try to find the Calle de la Arañgosa, which is to the left at this juncture.
For those who would like to save time and energy – consider taking a taxi to Paseo de la Florida and the Parque Camino de Santiago where the first stage begins. This is just a personal choice. This option might be more obvious looking at the map you may obtain from the tourist office, rather than just reading the CSJ guide.
The Camino Primitivo is not easy but it is very rewarding. The Spanish countryside was spectacularly beautiful - even in the mist. I have posted a photo link above.
I am a female, and started the walk alone, but soon met friends on the way and we stayed together through the rest of the journey. I did walk alone for long parts of days when going at my own pace. If I can be helpful to any other pilgrims, I will be happy to answer your questions.
I will try to share more of my experiences when I have time. Just wanted to make these points for now, if someone is planning on leaving soon.
Buen Camino!
Certain stages of this route were TOUGH – physically demanding and the terrain proved a significant challenge. In spite of my best intentions, I was not prepared with the proper equipment, nor did I have an idea of just how difficult the paths and weather conditions would be. The first week in Asturias was predominantly foggy, misty and rainy. Though I only walked one full day in heavy rain – night time rainfall left many trails in Asturias wet and MUDDY.
I had purchased high quality walking shoes, which served me well in Galicia, but at times were a major impediment in Asturias. My socks and feet were constantly wet for a week. I would imagine that the weather in Asturias is variable depending on the time of year – but please consider the needs of your feet for these two very different areas of Spain.
Though the kms of the stages in Asturias may seem manageable distances – one must consider that walking there consists of constant climbing up - sometimes sharply steep - mountain paths and descending down again into valleys – over and over. Both can be hard on the knees and slow one down a great deal.
Were I to walk this route again – I would consider bringing shoes for wet and dry walking conditions. I realize that might add bulk to my pack. But in the long run – socks and footwear are crucial to a comfortable experience. And I would consider giving 13 - 14 days to reach Santiago.
Peregrina 2000 “Laurie” - posted an excellent description that I viewed many times. I believe she also contributed to the CSJ guide update – which I carried with me on the walk. She makes special notes of muddy areas on the route between Salas and Tineo. She is correct!!! If you are prepared with the proper water/mud resistant foot wear – then proceed – otherwise consider her alternate suggestions.
Having said all that: I wouldn’t trade any part of my experience or difficulty. Everything that we went through made us stronger and appreciate our arrival in Santiago all the more. And muddy or not, woodland paths are usually more pleasant than walking on asphalt. Just consider your footwear!
DOGS
I encountered many dogs on this route. Almost every farm has a dog and every dog has something to “say” about your walking into his territory. 97% are on leashes and just make a lot of noise – Maybe 3 or 4 were unleashed – and most stared at us, but left us alone. Possibly around Villardongo, when alone, an unleashed dog came after me, barking and giving concerning signals – but ultimately I kept walking and was not harmed. I was a little scared then though.
OVIEDO
I visited the churches of San Miguel de Lillo and Santa Maria del Naranco on my first day in Oviedo, where I stayed overnight to get myself oriented. The hill where the churches are located overlooking the city, is fairly steep and distant. I took a taxi there, which was reasonably priced. If you decide to visit here separately from the Camino - take the cell phone number of your driver, if possible, for the return visit back to the Oviedo town center. If you are walking there, the guide explains how you may visit and rejoin the Camino without backtracking.
For the start of my walk from Oviedo to Grado, I had the CSJ guide - as well as the city tourist map for the Camino in English. I still got lost leaving Oviedo several times! It was MUCH harder to get out of the city than I anticipated. If I attempted it today, I could probably find my way without any map. But at the time – I was flustered and lost an hour and a half. Sometimes the shells are helpful, and sometimes there are not enough to let you know if you're going the right way. I feel this could be made clearer for pilgrims.
For those who consider starting from Oviedo Cathedral and following the embedded shells to the outskirts of town – a big part of the adventure – I will try to describe where I went wrong:
It was at the point of trying to find Calle de la Arañgosa – and it was tricky for some reason. When I crossed over from the Calle de la Independencia to what the guide describes as a “roundabout” - the shell on the ground was pointing in an ambiguous manner – making me think I should go right... There was no other waymark nearby to give me a sense of direction here – and I was disoriented. Try to find the Calle de la Arañgosa, which is to the left at this juncture.
For those who would like to save time and energy – consider taking a taxi to Paseo de la Florida and the Parque Camino de Santiago where the first stage begins. This is just a personal choice. This option might be more obvious looking at the map you may obtain from the tourist office, rather than just reading the CSJ guide.
The Camino Primitivo is not easy but it is very rewarding. The Spanish countryside was spectacularly beautiful - even in the mist. I have posted a photo link above.
I am a female, and started the walk alone, but soon met friends on the way and we stayed together through the rest of the journey. I did walk alone for long parts of days when going at my own pace. If I can be helpful to any other pilgrims, I will be happy to answer your questions.
I will try to share more of my experiences when I have time. Just wanted to make these points for now, if someone is planning on leaving soon.
Buen Camino!
