Camino Portugues or del Norte

[flying kiwi]

Hi there fellow adventurers,

I walked the CF in 2017 and loved it. I have just booked tickets to head to europe to do another camino in June 2019, and I'm trying to decide on either Portugues or del Norte. I have done a bit of research and know CDN is a more difficult walk and needs a bit of planning to be able to walk on the coast vs road walking (I would rather alternate coastal walk), and I also know the first part of CP can be challenging.

I would really like to hear from anyone who may have done both paths (or 1) and could give me a few insights into their experiences /view. I enjoyed coming into the smaller towns on the CF and seeing the beautiful structures and buildings. I have been to Portugal so have spent a couple of days in Lisbon and Porto, although I would enjoy seeing them again.

My reservations with CDN is what might be required to be able to plan to walk along the coast, as I only have 3 weeks to plan before I leave.

I would appreciate any thoughts or suggestions.

Buen Camino.

Maree, from New Zealand

 

[Jan_D]

My reservations with CDN is what might be required to be able to plan to walk along the coast, as I only have 3 weeks to plan before I leave.

Hi Maree, sorry don't have time to respond to all aspects of your post, but just a quick note to say you really don't need to "plan" the coastal alternatives on the Norte. Basically, there are "fisherman's trails" all along the coast (often labelled as the E-9 path). Sometimes the "official camino" coincides with these paths, but sometimes you're directed along the road just next to it. It's just a matter of deciding to stick along the more rustic paths rather than following the arrows onto the roads. The roads themselves aren't always too bad - they've built a mega-highway across the north of Spain, so lots of the old roads are hardly used except by farm traffic. And sometimes you might actually prefer taking the road as it's usually a bit more direct or less muddy. In any case, you can't get lost - as long as the sea's always on your right!

 

[flying kiwi]

Hi Maree, sorry don't have time to respond to all aspects of your post, but just a quick note to say you really don't need to "plan" the coastal alternatives on the Norte. Basically, there are "fisherman's trails" all along the coast (often labelled as the E-9 path). Sometimes the "official camino" coincides with these paths, but sometimes you're directed along the road just next to it. It's just a matter of deciding to stick along the more rustic paths rather than following the arrows onto the roads. The roads themselves aren't always too bad - they've built a mega-highway across the north of Spain, so lots of the old roads are hardly used except by farm traffic. And sometimes you might actually prefer taking the road as it's usually a bit more direct or less muddy. In any case, you can't get lost - as long as the sea's always on your right!

Hi Jan,
Thanks for your reply thats really helpful. I see you have also done the CP route. Did you have a preference from the two, and if so why?
Warmly, Maree

 

[Jan_D]

They are very different. The Portugues is interesting for cultural reasons, if you want to experience a country other than Spain. The people are very warm and friendly, the food is great, and things tend to be a bit cheaper. The path is relatively flat, and the infrastructure is good. There are a lot more pilgrims (at least from Porto onwards - it's the second most popular camino after the Frances!)

But my heart's on the Norte! It's an amazing route. Beautiful landscapes, with the sea always on your right as you head westwards. It can be physically challenging, but the rewards (and views) are breath-taking. On some days you'll pass through great cities, and on other days the only thing you'll hear are cow bells. You get to experience the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia - all quite different in subtle (and not so subtle) ways. As much as I love the Norte, though, I have heard others complaining that it has less of a "pilgrimage" feel. Sometimes you'll only see other pilgrims in the albergues, and pilgrims definitely become more "diluted" in the touristy areas. The pilgrim infrastructure isn't that great either. I've met pilgrims who've become frustrated by the lack of accommodation, and decided to head to the Frances mid-camino. You definitely need to be a bit more flexible with accommodation, and set aside a bit extra for the occasional hotel.

Maybe flip a coin? See which side you're *hoping* it will land on? Or how you feel about the result?

 

[Mark T17]

Thanks Jan, I'm grappling with the same decision as Maree. Everything I'm reading is pointing me towards the Norte and Primitivo route in 2022. I like the idea of spending a month on the coast and in the mountains.

 

[flying kiwi]

They are very different. The Portugues is interesting for cultural reasons, if you want to experience a country other than Spain. The people are very warm and friendly, the food is great, and things tend to be a bit cheaper. The path is relatively flat, and the infrastructure is good. There are a lot more pilgrims (at least from Porto onwards - it's the second most popular camino after the Frances!)

But my heart's on the Norte! It's an amazing route. Beautiful landscapes, with the sea always on your right as you head westwards. It can be physically challenging, but the rewards (and views) are breath-taking. On some days you'll pass through great cities, and on other days the only thing you'll hear are cow bells. You get to experience the Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias, and Galicia - all quite different in subtle (and not so subtle) ways. As much as I love the Norte, though, I have heard others complaining that it has less of a "pilgrimage" feel. Sometimes you'll only see other pilgrims in the albergues, and pilgrims definitely become more "diluted" in the touristy areas. The pilgrim infrastructure isn't that great either. I've met pilgrims who've become frustrated by the lack of accommodation, and decided to head to the Frances mid-camino. You definitely need to be a bit more flexible with accommodation, and set aside a bit extra for the occasional hotel.

Maybe flip a coin? See which side you're *hoping* it will land on? Or how you feel about the result?

Thanks Jan thats awesome, I really appreciate it. Its a difficult choice. I won't get much time to do any training due to it been a last minute decision to go this year instead of next (leaving in 3 wks).....so due to that factor, it seems more sensible to do CP. But I like your coin idea, maybe this might be the factor to get over my fitness fear

 

[Phil71]

Hmm. For me these are very different Caminos. Portuguese from Lisbon? Then starts very quiet with almost no infrastructure ( till porto) then busy
Mainly flat. Norte a tougher walk but fewer people. Depends what you want. I couldn't choose between the two. For me they were both so rewarding but in different ways.