Camino Portugues March 2011

[jsalt]

We’re a South African couple planning to walk from Lisbon to Santiago starting about 10 March. Lisbon to Porto seems to be a relatively quiet route, even more so at that time of the year. I’d be interested in hearing from others who have already walked it in March: how they found the weather (cold and rainy?), accommodation (easily available?), way marks (well-signposted?), etc. I’d also like to hear from anybody else planning to walk in March.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, jsalt,
I have walked from Lisbon to Porto, but it was a little later in the year. It is solitary and quiet no matter when you go -- I have heard from people who walked in mid-summer that they did not encounter any other pilgrims. The British Confraternity of St. James has published online guides of the Caminho Portugues, one from Lisbon to Porto, and one from Porto to Santiago. You can download them here:
http://www.csj.org.uk/guides.htm
(I am the author of the Lison-Porto segment, and as you will see, there is a brief update available as well, based on comments I've received from others who use the guide.)

There are many posts here on the forum that will give you some information, too. Take a look at all the listings under the Camino Portugues heading, there are several hundred, and I'm sure you will find lots of info there as well.

But the short answer to your questions, at least with regard to Lisbon to Porto is that accommodations are always available, but there are no albergues south of Porto. Private lodging usually runs about 20-25 euros per person, but there are places for pilgrims to sleep for a donation in the fire stations. I go to Lisbon for two weeks every year, usually in March, and the weather is tremendously varied -- sometimes lots of rain, sometimes lots of sun, sometimes warm, sometimes cold. I would be prepared for rain and chilly. And the way is well signposted except for the couple of places I note in my guide.

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[jsalt]

Hi Laurie, many thanks for your reply, much appreciated. I’d downloaded the guides already, but will check for any updates before we go. Looking forward to it. Looks like we may be the only ones then in March . . . . Jill

 

[camino07]

Hi Laurie and jsalt
I returned from the walking from Lisbon to Santiago two weeks ago over September so can't really comment on March weather. My Canadian friend and I found the first 10 days very hard. Long distances and extreme heat, we felt that walkers should be experienced and able to stand the heat, walking on mainly asphalt and dodging the dangerous traffic .I once more ended up with many blisters .I think that just might be my problem though as my friend had no foot problems and only ever used a single layer of socks and bodyglide ,so jealous of him!
Now looking back,it was wonderful. Funny how you forget the pain. I couldn't have done it without Laurie's guide. Sometimes we felt the distances were longer than you said and yes,we got lost in the eucalyptus forest.We didn't notice the downward pointing arrow below the yellow cross on the first transmission pole and spent ages following yellow industrial ribbon tied on branches thinking that was the camino. After going up close to the pole again we saw the arrow.
I totally misunderstood your notes and looking back over now I can see that. Anyway there are yellow metal arrows high up on trees and KSO.even though it seems ages between them. We started looking down other paths instead of just going straight on.
It was like a miracle when after deciding we were totally lost that we came upon a yellow arrow on a concrete block after clambering down a slope following transmitter lines.There are many different lines which was also confusing.We found the farm and the farmer gave us a handful of pears and pointed the way to Grou. Sorry this is so long winded.
Not many country people spoke English but were friendly and at first no one had heard of the Camino but as we got closer to Porto this changed. On the Lisbon portion we met all in all 9 pilgrims
but many after Porto.I loved the last 2 weeks. Glad to answer any questions. Heather

 

[jsalt]

Hi Heather, thanks for the tips, and we’ll definitely go very carefully through the eucalyptus forest. We’re experienced walkers, but not on asphalt, so hope we can cope on the road sections, very tiring on the feet. If you have the time, I’d be very interested in knowing where you stayed each day between Lisbon and Porto, and what the places cost, to give me some idea of how much we should allow for. Thank you Laurie and Heather for your help. Jill.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Heather,

Glad to hear about your trip, and I will take a look at my language in the guide. I'm sorry if you wound up more lost because of it. I suppose that if there's been more waymarking done it could actually make things more confusing, since my directions were done before and may now be inconsistent. I think the only thing is for me to walk it again! I had said when I arrived in Porto that I had finally found a camino I had no desire to repeat, but like you, looking back and thinking about it, there were many very beautiful spots and nice towns.

And yes, this part of the camino was where I really learned that "no arrow at an intersection means KSO" -- unfortunately it's sometimes hard to know what KSO means when there's no arrow at an intersection with more than two paths crossing each other.

So I'm hoping from your comments here that there is new waymarking in the second eucalyptus forest as well, which would be a big improvement since I walked many kms out of my way in that one!

Did you take pictures? Laurie

 

[camino07]

hi Jill and Laurie
No trouble with the marking on the second forest and in fact the Portuguese marking was mostly excellent and looked freshly done. We commented that the Spanish marking was not so frequent.
I know three people planning on walking from Lisbon next may so hopefully it will become more popular.
Heather

 

[camino07]

Here is a list of where we stayed: Prices between 20 to 30 Euros mainly for single rooms

Lisbon: Residencial Florescente 50 E single .Excellent and central.
Vila Franca de Xira: Residencial Flora good but try Pensao Ribatejana it looked ok,next to station
Azambuja: Res. Flor de Primavera was full but lady took us to nearby apartment. Good
Santarem: Res. Vitoria
Golega: Campground was full due to a wedding. Had to stay at Pensao above Black Pig Cafe,a bit grotty but ok 20E for huge room Great meal at Cafe Central on square.
Tomar: Res. Luz 20E Lovely but noisy street. Brass Band started playing for an hour at 930pm!
Alvaiazere: after 9 and half hour walk found Res Obras,owners on vacation.Neighbour had key so we had sole occupancy with beautiful rooms for 20 E each. still had to walk into town for meal.
Ansaio was our goal ,rainy day so took taxi to Rabacal planning to stay at Casa de Turismo which was closed. Camino Angels in shape of Jaoa and Marjolyn insisted on taking us home to there wonderful converted millhouse near Condeixa on the Camino. Said they didn't often get the chance to speak English .5 star treatment and even insisted on making us breakfast before we set out in the am. Wow!
Coimbra: Res Dumus full but taken across street to other accom. good 30E Loved this City.
Mealhada: Res Oasis turn L end of town Very nice 30E Must try yummy Suckling pig (but keep eyes closed) poor piggy.
Agueda: Pensao Riberina 20E lovely but another noisy street.
Albergaria a Velha: Pensao Casa de Alameda 25E good restaurant downstairs.
Sao Jao de Madeira Res Solar, good
Took bus to Porto from bus station early next am.My only compensation as my partner didn't take rest days. Had to search for accomodation as very busy.Res Vera Cruz ok . We took topless bus around interesting sights and got off at Port Caves for sampling.Great City for extra night.
Hope this helps
Heather

 

[jsalt]

Wonderful! Many thanks Heather. Jill.

 

[joeymello]

Hi jsalt,

You're probably starting the camino in a few days. Well, hopefully the weather will be good! We arrived in Santiago a few days ago from Porto and we were lucky that we didn't get any rain! I know!!! We couldn't believe it!

Some tips:

1) There is a 1 hour time difference after you cross the border from Portugal to Spain
2) The sun was already up by 7am Portugal time or 8am Spanish time. Weather starts at around 5 degrees C and goes to a high of 15 degrees C. We never 'sweat' because of the cool weather!
3) On average the albergues only had 5-10 pilgrims each evening during our route. Not bad at all especially since the albergues can accomodate more than 30 people normally.

Have fun!

 

[ervanni]

Planning to do the Portuguese route from Porto to Santiago in May 2011.
Like solitude, but wondering how safe it will be for a woman walking alone.
Any advice or somebody planning to walk it as well?

 

[albergue_de_rates]

Hi ervani,

Danger is every in our life... :?

As you are going to start walking in Porto you will find more people walking for sure in that period, for instances there are more people walking in May that in June.

On the first day it will be difficulty to see someone since peregrinos start in different places of Porto town but when you get at Albergue S. Pedro de Rates, you will be nested be other peregrinos to walk with.

Ultreia
Pedro
Albergue Peregrinos S.Pedro de Rates

 

[haitianevey]

I'm getting ready to go this March.... has anyone else gone in March and how was the weather?

Thanks!
D

 

[keilnirby]

Haitianevey,

Did you end up going in March after all? I'm toying with the idea of a March Camino Portugues (trying to decide between that and the VDLP).

Neil