Camino Portugues advice

[GerFol]

Hi folks,
I did the Camino Frances which was a wonderful experience. I have two weeks free in April so I'm considering doing part of the Portaguese from Porto to Santiago. I have the Brierly book and have read some posts on this forum and still have a few questions that need clarification. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

1. Are costs similar on the CP? On average I spent €20 per day on the CF staying in Municipal Hostals on the way. Is the infrastructure as good on this section of the CP? Are there Hostals at regular intervals?
2. I'm planning to go in early April and netting to Santiago Easter weekend. Whats the weather like this time of year?
3. I'm travelling solo and have a terrible sense of direction. Are there plenty of yellow arrows? What advice would you give to me to avoid going the wrong way?
4. What's the best hostal to use at the starting point in Porto?
5. I'm travelling solo but love meeting people, will the CP be very quiet this time of year? Will I spend days walking on my own?

Thank you for your help.

Gerard

 

[scruffy1]

Shalom Jerard and greetings from Jerusalem!
Porto is a lovely place to start-don't get off the plane and run down the Camino, get the city a day-it deserves more but give it a day.
1.Portugal is maybe a tad cheaper but don't count on it-half of your plan is in Spain anyway so its really quite similar.
2. Should be very pleasant temperature wise-expect rain you will be walking right on the coast.
3. Plenty of yellow arrows, the only thing to worry about may be a need for asking directions-the Prtuguese will welcome you warmly and give fully detailed instuctions should you get lost-they will asi about your family - tell you about theirs-talk about the weatherall in rapid Portuguese so good luck with that one! Like in Spain, watch yourself in the larger cities the Camino is marked but you must look for it!
4. The best hostel is a private one The Poet's Inninfo@thepoetsinn.com [/EMAIL]http://thepoetsinn.com/
5. Very quiet, amaziling so, wonderfully so, even the albergues have few pilgrims.
Bom Caminho which is also a good blessing after you cross the bridge into Spain since there is more Galego spoken there in that part of Galicia.

 

[hnguyen]

Thank to Gerard for posing the very questions about the CP that I also have in mind. Like you, I did the CF last April-May, starting from SJPP and am planning to do the CP from Lisbon, in September. And thank to Scruffy1 for your precise answers.
Can anyone give additional advice for starting in early September? Is this a good time weather wise (rain, temperature...), crowd wise (I like people but prefer fewer to more) and hostel availability (any closure this time of year) etc.
Thank you.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Hi folks,
I did the Camino Frances which was a wonderful experience. I have two weeks free in April so I'm considering doing part of the Portaguese from Porto to Santiago. I have the Brierly book and have read some posts on this forum and still have a few questions that need clarification. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
1. Are costs similar on the CP? On average I spent €20 per day on the CF staying in Municipal Hostals on the way. Is the infrastructure as good on this section of the CP? Are there Hostals at regular intervals?
2. I'm planning to go in early April and netting to Santiago Easter weekend. Whats the weather like this time of year?
3. I'm travelling solo and have a terrible sense of direction. Are there plenty of yellow arrows? What advice would you give to me to avoid going the wrong way?
4. What's the best hostal to use at the starting point in Porto?
5. I'm travelling solo but love meeting people, will the CP be very quiet this time of year? Will I spend days walking on my own?
Thank you for your help. Gerard

Hi Gerard!
I did the camino Portuguese in two sections - different years. The diaries are downloadable from my web site. However, in direct answer to your questions ...
1. I'd have thought 20E was VERY conservative. Crumbs - I spend that much on food and wine .
2. April can be very wet - yet on my trip in 2011 it was perfect.
3. I found the arrows excellent - perfect between Porto and Tui, slightly less good from Tui to SdC. But with Brierly's book, you should have no problems.
4. I stayed in a hostal which cost 25E in Porto, so that would be outside your budget. You would need to find an albergue, and I'm sure details are available elsewhere here in the Forum.
5. I met no other pilgrims for the first three days of the camino: it tends to be very quiet - which I prefer - compared to the Frances.
Have a super time ..and ...
Buen camino! Or should we say Bom Caminho in Portuguese!

 

[mspath]

...
Bom Caminho which is also a good blessing after you cross the bridge into Spain since there is more Galego spoken there in that part of Galicia.

The bridge to which Scruffy refers crosses the old frontier between Valenca de Minho, Portugal and Tui, Spain and said to have been designed by Eiffel (of Parisian tower fame) c.1878 for both rail and vehicle traffic. At night the view from the bridge towards Tui is spectacular.

 

[mikevasey]

Hi have a look at this link www.vialusitana.org/caminho-portugues/albergues/ it gives details of the albergues from Porto to SDC, the link for the Portuscale is not working but if you use the details given in google search it will give you a working link, that one is donativo and unusually you are expected to ring in advance and reserve a place. The Vairio one opened in July last year is about 23 km walk from the Cathedral and is donativo. Costs are generally cheaper in Portugal, if you are using supermarkets you will be able to keep your costs under €20.
It is quite busy from Porto and when you add that on to the people who start in Lisbon, Fatima and Coimbra you should see a lot of pilgrims in your first few days.

Good luck

 

[NadAmr]

Hi ! I planned to do the portuges way during this Spring, too.
Apparently you can also sleep by the firemen all along this Camino (they are called Bombeiros) but there is not so much books in France about this Camino (Yes, I know, I'm French, nobody's perfect). The book I have assure there is enough places to sleep between Porto and Santiago, all along the way.
I also eard it's a little cheaper and a little more lonely than Spain.
If someone has others info...
Maybe see you on the Way.
Bon chemin (ou Buen Camino

 

[scruffy1]

I too read that one may sleep with the firemen-tried it three different times-once it worked in Coimbra and I was shown to an empty room next to the toilets and slept on the floor-twice the firemen laughed hysterically at the attempts of an elderly foreigner trying to communicate in zero Portuguese spiced with English/Spanish/French and mimicking in the best traditions of Marcel Marceau the request for a place to sleep-and no I didn't sleep in either.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi ! I planned to do the portuges way during this Spring, too.
Apparently you can also sleep by the firemen all along this Camino (they are called Bombeiros) but there is not so much books in France about this Camino (Yes, I know, I'm French, nobody's perfect). The book I have assure there is enough places to sleep between Porto and Santiago, all along the way.
I also eard it's a little cheaper and a little more lonely than Spain.
If someone has others info...
Maybe see you on the Way.
Bon chemin (ou Buen Camino

Hi, NadAmr,

You should check the ViaLusitana website that Mike mentioned in his post. The group makes a point of informing pilgrims of the places where the Bombeiros have stopped taking pilgrims. I think you will find that the number of Bombeiros that will accept pilgrims is decreasing as the number of pilgrims increases. But there are more and more albergues, so that's a good development. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[Former member 22438]

Hi ! I planned to do the portuges way during this Spring, too.
Apparently you can also sleep by the firemen all along this Camino (they are called Bombeiros) but there is not so much books in France about this Camino (Yes, I know, I'm French, nobody's perfect). The book I have assure there is enough places to sleep between Porto and Santiago, all along the way.
I also eard it's a little cheaper and a little more lonely than Spain.
If someone has others info...
Maybe see you on the Way.
Bon chemin (ou Buen Camino

Hola NadAmr,
Last year we slept at the Bombeiros Volontarios in Tomar. Once and never again but anyhow an unforgetable experience.
Sleeping with 9 other peregrinos in a big empty hall on filthy matrasses on the ground.So take a silk liner with you for some hygienic protection The bombeiros shifts have to be awake in case of accidents at all times. that's why they are bombeiros So they are shouting loud all the time, play games like football and cards and keep the sleeping peregrinos out of their nightrest. At the reception we had not the impression that we were very welcome and the next morning they did not accept our donation .
But we keep the memories with a smile on our faces and were grateful they lodged us. That's one thing of the caminho to experience.

A great experience we had in Cernache, just before Coimbra.we slept at a highschool campus.
At the campus they had a house with a lot of bunkbeds. We had it for ourselves( we were there in the month of May) you have to give them a phonecall on beforehand so the concierge knows about. After 20h 00 the gate closes so you have to be inside and the next morning you are kindly to leave before 8h00 .But is was nice to be there. Restaurant in front of the gate, hot showers etc. They did not accept any donation although we insisted.

Just outside Albergaría-a-Velha we slept in a casa Diocesana, a retraîthouse with nuns.
We arrived around midday and they cooked us a lunch and a diner and had several rooms with bunkbeds. We were there together with a German peregrino We had a room for ourselves, a (not too) warm shower and a conversation full of laughs with the nun in charge for that day (in Portugese !
One of the nuns asked us what time we liked our breakfast the next morning.7h30 please.
Exactly at 7h30 she was standing in front of the door waiting for us. We were ready and packed Where is the German she asked. Maybe still sleeping I responded. So than he doesnot get his breakfast she said with an anoid voice! Later we met our German friend who told us he slept until 9h and after that there was nobody and no breakfast.
We paid 3€ each for the lodging and service. Great memories

Do not forget Casa Fernanda ! The best experience at the caminho Portuges. But read about it yourself on this forum .there have been said so many words about it . Almost every week you'll find something about it in the threads.

Bom caminho

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Hi, NadAmr, You should check the ViaLusitana website that Mike mentioned in his post. The group makes a point of informing pilgrims of the places where the Bombeiros have stopped taking pilgrims. I think you will find that the number of Bombeiros that will accept pilgrims is decreasing as the number of pilgrims increases. But there are more and more albergues, so that's a good development. Bom caminho, Laurie

Just a quickie - if any pilgrim can afford to stay in small hotels, PLEASE DO SO.
The Portuguese economy is going through bad times. I stayed in several places where I was the ONLY one there - that included a 40 bedroom modern hotel. They blame the bombeiros for offering 'free' beds and many small hotels and hostals may even have to close down.
As pilgrims we are helping the local economy - and we are appreciated.

 

[Former member 22438]

Just a quickie - if any pilgrim can afford to stay in small hotels, PLEASE DO SO.
The Portuguese economy is going through bad times. I stayed in several places where I was the ONLY one there - that included a 40 bedroom modern hotel. They blame the bombeiros for offering 'free' beds and many small hotels and hostals may even have to close down.
As pilgrims we are helping the local economy - and we are appreciated.

We as pensionados-baby boomers as they say in Holland- can afford it but obviously there are a lot who can't so than it is okay there are exists cheaper lodging.
But as a relieve for the economia Portugesa, on the Lisbon Porto leg there are only a few places you can stay for nothing or at a small amount so anyway everybody who walks that track has to be prepared for sleeping in hotels or hostals and for some higher costs.

And we are going for the more expensive way on the camino Ingles is it not Stephen ?
However there are some albergues. We will see !

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

We as pensionados-baby boomers as they say in Holland- can afford it but obviously there are a lot who can't so than it is okay there are exists cheaper lodging. But as a relieve for the economia Portugesa, on the Lisbon Porto leg there are only a few places you can stay for nothing or at a small amount so anyway everybody who walks that track has to be prepared for sleeping in hotels or hostals and for some higher costs. And we are going for the more expensive way on the camino Ingles is it not Stephen ?
However there are some albergues. We will see !

Hi Albertinho!
I think there are plenty of albergues on the Ingles! However, from time to time I like a room to myself - to get away from the snoring and the 5 a.m. early-risers! The trouble is, when you book into a hostal/hotel, you don't have the pleasure of the "camino family" which is very important for me.
Last year I booked into a modern, 40 bedroom hotel for about 37E [I grumbled about the price!]. In the morning I went into the dining room, to find just one, single table laid up for breakfast: the staff confirmed that I was the only guest staying there.... I felt so sorry for them - and for grumbling about the price.
My plans are: Santiago May 14th and 15th. Ferrol 16th, and then walking to Bruma over several days. From Bruma I'll take a bus back to the other main starting point [A Coruna] and walk the whole route to SdC from there.
I wonder if our paths will cross?
Buen camino, amigo Albertinho!

 

[Former member 22438]

Hi Albertinho!
I think there are plenty of albergues on the Ingles! However, from time to time I like a room to myself - to get away from the snoring and the 5 a.m. early-risers! The trouble is, when you book into a hostal/hotel, you don't have the pleasure of the "camino family" which is very important for me.
Last year I booked into a modern, 40 bedroom hotel for about 37E [I grumbled about the price!]. In the morning I went into the dining room, to find just one, single table laid up for breakfast: the staff confirmed that I was the only guest staying there.... I felt so sorry for them - and for grumbling about the price.
My plans are: Santiago May 14th and 15th. Ferrol 16th, and then walking to Bruma over several days. From Bruma I'll take a bus back to the other main starting point [A Coruna] and walk the whole route to SdC from there.
I wonder if our paths will cross?
Buen camino, amigo Albertinho!

We will see if we will cross our path Stephan

We were intending to leave home mid of last april, but i have a gig with my bigband on april 26 th. So I think it will be beginning of may we drive to Ferrol which will take us about 8 days with our car and caravan. Probably we'll meet somewhere.

Cheers and buen camino Stephan. We'll keep in contact

 

[Eileen W]

I'm also planning my first camino for next spring and would very much like to walk the Portuguese way. The only problem I can see is not being able to speak the language. When you're on your own, how do you phone ahead whilst on the camino to reserve a room, which many of them seem to ask (as much as I can glean from the links)? It's a bit daunting, tbh. I'd try and learn Portuguese but I'm absolutely useless at languages. I took French at school for four years and still can't understand it, and have tried many other languages with the same results, lol. Any suggestions anyone? Or perhaps I should go for the camino Frances first...although I've really got my heart set on Portugal. Cheers.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

how do you phone ahead whilst on the camino to reserve a room

Have the host phone for you. They usually are very willing to help.

 

[mspath]

I'm also planning my first camino for next spring and would very much like to walk the Portuguese way. The only problem I can see is not being able to speak the language. When you're on your own, how do you phone ahead whilst on the camino to reserve a room, which many of them seem to ask (as much as I can glean from the links)? It's a bit daunting, tbh. I'd try and learn Portuguese but I'm absolutely useless at languages. I took French at school for four years and still can't understand it, and have tried many other languages with the same results, lol. Any suggestions anyone? Or perhaps I should go for the camino Frances first...although I've really got my heart set on Portugal. Cheers.

Eileen,

Many Portuguese speak English! If you learn a few basic phrases ie good day, please, thank you, how far?, how much? etc. you will easily be able to communicate. When all else fails there is always pantomime! Generally you do not call ahead for a pilgrim albergue space except in private albergues where you might make a reservation. If you need to call ahead the current albergue hospitalero could call for you. Similarly for future regular tourist accommodation reservations the hotel staff where you are staying could reserve ahead for you. Portuguese tourist bureau staff are also MOST helpful in booking regular accommodation.

Bom Caminho,

Margaret Meredith

 

[Deleted member 3000]

You can review the route and accommodations here:

http://www.csj.org.uk/guides-online.htm

 

[Eileen W]

Thank you both very much, falcon and mspath. That's really helpful.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

I'm also planning my first camino for next spring and would very much like to walk the Portuguese way. The only problem I can see is not being able to speak the language. When you're on your own, how do you phone ahead whilst on the camino to reserve a room, which many of them seem to ask (as much as I can glean from the links)? It's a bit daunting, tbh. I'd try and learn Portuguese but I'm absolutely useless at languages. I took French at school for four years and still can't understand it, and have tried many other languages with the same results, lol. Any suggestions anyone? Or perhaps I should go for the camino Frances first...although I've really got my heart set on Portugal. Cheers.

Hi Eileen!
As has been said - and I confirm - the Portuguese are very welcoming, and very often speak English. Although I have a smattering of Spanish, I speak no Portuguese, and found they preferred to use English anyway .
There are many less pilgrims on the Portugese - I found no reason to call ahead at all.
Use this forum to get all your answers - you can also check out my diaries [in Word format] on my web site.
You say your heart is set on the Portuguese: it's a beautiful camino: just follow your heart.
Bom caminho, Eileen!

 

[Gailsie]

My language skills are limited and my pronunciation is horrible so when I walked the Frances, I used a phase book and wrote down the words I wanted to say. It sure helped, especially with the names of towns, I never seemed to say them properly.

 

[Meldelcamino]

Just a quickie - if any pilgrim can afford to stay in small hotels, PLEASE DO SO.
The Portuguese economy is going through bad times. I stayed in several places where I was the ONLY one there - that included a 40 bedroom modern hotel. They blame the bombeiros for offering 'free' beds and many small hotels and hostals may even have to close down.
As pilgrims we are helping the local economy - and we are appreciated.

Valued advice Stephen which I probably will follow - particularly to get undisturbed sleep and leisurely starts! Mel

 

[Snowflower]

Hi folks,
I did the Camino Frances which was a wonderful experience. I have two weeks free in April so I'm considering doing part of the Portaguese from Porto to Santiago. I have the Brierly book and have read some posts on this forum and still have a few questions that need clarification. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

1. Are costs similar on the CP? On average I spent €20 per day on the CF staying in Municipal Hostals on the way. Is the infrastructure as good on this section of the CP? Are there Hostals at regular intervals?
2. I'm planning to go in early April and netting to Santiago Easter weekend. Whats the weather like this time of year?
3. I'm travelling solo and have a terrible sense of direction. Are there plenty of yellow arrows? What advice would you give to me to avoid going the wrong way?
4. What's the best hostal to use at the starting point in Porto?
5. I'm travelling solo but love meeting people, will the CP be very quiet this time of year? Will I spend days walking on my own?

Thank you for your help.

Gerard

Hello Gerard, i am beginning my Portuguese Camino in Sept ember , there is a hostel very close to the Airport which i am looking at , its only 5 minutes walk from the airport and on the Camino path , - Good luck from Snowflower

 

[GerFol]

Hi everybody,
Thank you all so much for the valuable information. I will certainly check out the hostal close to Porto airport as my flight gets in very late in the evening and knowing the potential of my sense of direction, don't want to be trying to navigate the city in the dark.
Kind regards,
Gerard.

 

[Meldelcamino]

Hi everybody,
Thank you all so much for the valuable information. I will certainly check out the hostal close to Porto airport as my flight gets in very late in the evening and knowing the potential of my sense of direction, don't want to be trying to navigate the city in the dark.
Kind regards,
Gerard.

If you can access Google Earth, or Maps, you can easily trace/print out the route to the Hostal near the Airport - though don't know how well-lit the streets are. No doubt others will know. Bom Caminho

 

[Eileen W]

Thanks again to everyone from me too. Stephen, I read your diaries yesterday. It took the rest of the day and half-way through the night until the early morning hours, lol, but I found them fascinating. Very useful as what to do in the worst case scenarios, which would be for me as they were for you on the Salamanca to Santiago pilgrimage...extreme rain, extreme pain and loneliness for our mother tongue. I haven't let it put me off (yet!), but it's useful seeing it from both sides. Cheers.

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

Thanks again to everyone from me too. Stephen, I read your diaries yesterday. It took the rest of the day and half-way through the night until the early morning hours, lol, but I found them fascinating. Very useful as what to do in the worst case scenarios, which would be for me as they were for you on the Salamanca to Santiago pilgrimage...extreme rain, extreme pain and loneliness for our mother tongue. I haven't let it put me off (yet!), but it's useful seeing it from both sides. Cheers.

Eileen - DON'T let it put you off! The Salamanca episode was most unusual ... I've enjoyed another [even quieter] camino since then [Lisbon to Porto] and have now booked my flights for the Ingles, flying out on May 14th to SdC and then - after a couple of days in the city - catching a bus to Ferrol and starting to walk.
I am SO looking forward to it, after the long, dark, wet days of the last winter in England.
You'll have an amazing time on the Portuguese!
Buen camino Eileen! Keep in touch!

 

[Eileen W]

Hi Steven. Yes, I read your Lisbon to Porto diary. I read it before the Porto to Santiago one so that I'd get an idea of the whole camino from Lisbon to Santiago. I'm still a bit undecided as to which to do first, but it depends on how I heal from a back injury. I also have joint problems, so a long one might not be a good idea for my first pilgrimage. The walk I'd most like to do is Porto to Santiago, but I'm thinking that the Camino Ingles will be the best to begin with, as it's only a week or less. I've looked at the route and it looks very interesting and doable for me too, and as it's only short it means being able to spend a few days either end.

Buen camino.

 

[NadAmr]

Ok, thanks for advices and tips guys! Actually, I think, I'll camp most of the time, like I did on the Caimno Frances and in the french part, but well sometimes you need a shower!

 

[Diogo92]

@NadAmr , please see this post about camping on the portuguese:http://www.caminodesantiago.me/comm...caminho-português-allowed-or-forbidden.20903/

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[chook]

I'm also planning my first camino for next spring and would very much like to walk the Portuguese way. The only problem I can see is not being able to speak the language. When you're on your own, how do you phone ahead whilst on the camino to reserve a room, which many of them seem to ask (as much as I can glean from the links)? It's a bit daunting, tbh. I'd try and learn Portuguese but I'm absolutely useless at languages. I took French at school for four years and still can't understand it, and have tried many other languages with the same results, lol. Any suggestions anyone? Or perhaps I should go for the camino Frances first...although I've really got my heart set on Portugal. Cheers.

I will be leaving Porto late May and speak no Portuguese or Spanish (except to ask for red wine) - non-verbal communication with universal gesture is my only hope. It got me by on the CF in 2005 so here's hoping again...

 

[Stephen Nicholls]

I will be leaving Porto late May and speak no Portuguese or Spanish (except to ask for red wine) - non-verbal communication with universal gesture is my only hope. It got me by on the CF in 2005 so here's hoping again...

You'll be fine!
The Portuguese often like to use English.
Failing that, use mime ..... my first camino I had to 'mime' CRAMP in a chemist shop, holding my left leg, grimacing hard and dancing around in agony. They understood! All the other customers grinned!
Buen camino!

 

[OttawaWalker]

You'll be fine!
The Portuguese often like to use English.
Failing that, use mime ..... my first camino I had to 'mime' CRAMP in a chemist shop, holding my left leg, grimacing hard and dancing around in agony. They understood! All the other customers grinned!
Buen camino!

Hi Stephen

I just read your diary for Porto to Santiago and really enjoyed it - thanks for sharing. I will be leaving Porto on March 20 and hope to walk to Santiago over 10 days. I am a little nervous about the walk out of Porto and the traffic problems.
Josey

 

[Former member 22438]

Hi Stephen

I just read your diary for Porto to Santiago and really enjoyed it - thanks for sharing. I will be leaving Porto on March 20 and hope to walk to Santiago over 10 days. I am a little nervous about the walk out of Porto and the traffic problems.
Josey

If you read this forum well , you'll see that there is a very safe detour out of Porto to Matosinhos and on to Vila do Conde and so on to Sāo Pedro de Rates where you pick up the interior route and avoid the stressfull walk on the hardshoulders of busy roads north of Porto. Many posts about that detour on this forum

 

[HeidiL]

I walked (OK, mostly waded - last Easter was the wettest week in Portugal for over 40 years, the locals said) from Porto to Santiago last Easter. On the whole, it was a very pleasant experience, easy terrain, nice countryside, good food. Not a lot of pilgrims, apart from the last 100K, but a good walk.

The only thing that surprised me, since I'm used to the Spanish tapas tradition, was the way many restaurants in Portugal put food that you didn't order on your table and expect you to pay for it.

In Spain, if you order a drink, very frequently it comes along with a piece of bread, a handful of olives or a few potato chips. In Portugal, if they put something you didn't order in front of you, expect to pay. We ordered "pilgrim lunches" for €6 at a little place a couple of days out of Porto, and the waiter put three breadrolls and a little sliced cheese on the table while we were waiting for our starters. €3 per person was what the bill said. We paid, but thereafter refused any "extras".

 

[zsit]

Hello everyone,
I walked the Camino Frances two years ago and now planning to do the Portuguese one, starting at the end of April. Getting excited (well a bit nervous, too ). This forum is a great help with the preparation!
Does anyone have any experiences with bed bugs on this route? I was lucky enough not to meet any on the Frances but read somewhere that there are a lot on the Portuguese :/ Don't think this would keep me away but would like to know what to expect

Thanks and buen camino.

 

[DurhamParish]

I walked from Porto to Santiago in September of 2012. I didn't see or hear tell of any bedbugs.

 

[Diogo92]

Hello everyone,
I walked the Camino Frances two years ago and now planning to do the Portuguese one, starting at the end of April. Getting excited (well a bit nervous, too ). This forum is a great help with the preparation!
Does anyone have any experiences with bed bugs on this route? I was lucky enough not to meet any on the Frances but read somewhere that there are a lot on the Portuguese :/ Don't think this would keep me away but would like to know what to expect

Thanks and buen camino.

I don't know where you have read that kind of thing, but that is a lie. The only case of bedbugs that somebody talked with me about, was last year, in mid-summer peak, in an Albergue in Caldas de Reis.

Just one thing: bedbugs spread not only in Albergues, but also in Hostels and Hotels. I know people who never had problem in Albergues, but that had a major attack on a Hotel. So it's a kind of thing that you really sometimes do not count to happen, but that can appear.

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[Me Fein]

No sign of bedbugs when I walked Lisbon to Santiago April/May 2013. Enjoy your Camino
Bom Caminho
Maura

 

[linnea.borealis]

I'm also planning my first camino for next spring and would very much like to walk the Portuguese way. The only problem I can see is not being able to speak the language. When you're on your own, how do you phone ahead whilst on the camino to reserve a room, which many of them seem to ask (as much as I can glean from the links)? It's a bit daunting, tbh. I'd try and learn Portuguese but I'm absolutely useless at languages. I took French at school for four years and still can't understand it, and have tried many other languages with the same results, lol. Any suggestions anyone? Or perhaps I should go for the camino Frances first...although I've really got my heart set on Portugal. Cheers.

Hello, Eileen! I have had very good luck having the host of one night call ahead for the next night or two. I've also found other pilgrims to help. I've walked the Le Puy Route, the Camino Frances to Santiago, the Via Gebennensis, and next week will begin walking from Porto to Santiago and to Muxia and Finisterre. Stephen, I've read your report. Thank you! Still not sure whether we need sleeping bags or just liners on this route. I think I will take my very lightweight bag. Linnea caminobleu.blogspot.com

 

[Diogo92]

Hello, Eileen! I have had very good luck having the host of one night call ahead for the next night or two. I've also found other pilgrims to help. I've walked the Le Puy Route, the Camino Frances to Santiago, the Via Gebennensis, and next week will begin walking from Porto to Santiago and to Muxia and Finisterre. Stephen, I've read your report. Thank you! Still not sure whether we need sleeping bags or just liners on this route. I think I will take my very lightweight bag. Linnea caminobleu.blogspot.com

Take a sleeping bag, during the day you walk with 20ºC, and by night you'll have to sleep with 6ºC.

Best Regards
Diogo

 

[OzAnnie]

Hi
My experience Porto to Sdc was may 2012. I think about 10 days
It was my first camino . (Just walked sjpdp to Sdc aug sep12 too so can now compare).

1 my memory of cost in Portugal , was that it was cheap. At least no more than similar on the Frances
2 weather in may was a joy to walk in. In 2012 we had a few drops of rain one day and then only a short quick shower about an hour before arriving in Sdc. You can't anticipate weather though. It happens!
3 arrows. Everywhere. I commented at the time to my friend with me who had walked the Frances in 2012. That there were so many and her reply was that there were more on the Portuguese. There were many occasions on the way when (if there was a choice ). There would be a big x painted on the post of the wrong way.. So you couldn't go wrong.
4 stages. We picked up a Brierley guide at one of the alburgues early on. I think in hindsight of the Frances we walked longer stages (for me) on the portuguese. I think one day was about 36k. Memory is fading but sure they were early 20's. but we only had to walk 10 days. We didn't have any Pyrenees to cross. There were a few rugged bits where I saw a cyclist carrying his bike all the way down
5. I hear people say they won't see other pilgrims. There were plenty of people walking at that time. We never scored abottom bunk. I'm trying to say the alburgues were mostly full. One had to bring out overflow mattresses. It was a great camino family and I am still in touch with 3 others from that camino.

6. We didn't stay in hostal or alburgue in Porto at start as we had been on Spain tour prior and went to hotel. Sorted out un needed gear and posted to Sdc. (We weren't aware of ivars holding facility at that time). Pity for my friend as her parcel never arrived at hotel .
7. We had learned prior about getting out of Porto on the cobbled streets so after getting our credencials at the cathedral we caught a train to (I think Vila de Conde ). And stayed there / checked out - dipped my feet in the Atlantic. 1st ever sight of it. And headed off on way.
8. We only stayed in a pension one night. I forget which town but the arlburgue was on the approach and the town was a large one. One of the other pilgrims clued us into it prior so we nabbed the last bed I think.

Such a gorgeous walk. Lovely villages and towns that you walk through. Friendly people !!!! No problem communicating.. Most portuguese people could understand the questions that a pilgrim has to ask. The only time you may need help to be understood (like catching the train or Was it the metro? ). Choose someone young. As we found that most of the young ones now learn English whereas it wasn't the case with older folk. The guy who helped us find the right transport and made sure we got off at the right place explained that the most young ones could speak some English.

The way is very pretty, portugal have their unique blue tile and youll see a lot of examples on the homes , the grape vines are on higher frames in many places which is a bit different. Many of the crops are still gathered into 'stooks' rather than the more modern. ' machine bound' square or round bales.

The tostada on Portuguese was from memory more enjoyable than on some occasions on the Frances where it was very dry and crunchy. I look forward to my tostada with my coffee in the morning


Oh yes. In Porto. Don't miss out on going in to the main railway station and checking out the walls. Covered in the beautiful Portuguese blue 'art'. All the bus tours stopped off to look too.

But I loved the Frances too !! That's another topic though.
Annie

 

[headinclouds]

Hi Gerard,

I found the arrow marking in Portugal to be very consistent, more so than on the Spanish part of the walk, where it seems local ideas of what help I needed were different from town to town (I did Lisbon to Santiago).

I had two occasions after the camino, back in Lisbon, when food was put on my table without me asking for it. The first time I assumed it was free and ate it, not wanting to waste it, only to find when I payed that I had forced my self to eat an extra €5 of food. The second time it happened, I asked and then left it alone. Generally the food in Portugal was very good value. I do miss the Spanish Tapas!

I spent a rest day in Porto before continuing on to Santiago. As well as being a good opportunity to see the city, which for me was the most beautiful on the CP, it was a chance to see other pilgrims walking about during the day.

If you have a day in Porto first you will get a good sense of how many others there are and maybe even meet someone to start out with the next day.

Bom Caminho!

Phil.

totallyphil.blogspot.com.au

 

[peregrina2000]

I had two occasions after the camino, back in Lisbon, when food was put on my table without me asking for it. The first time I assumed it was free and ate it, not wanting to waste it, only to find when I payed that I had forced my self to eat an extra €5 of food. The second time it happened, I asked and then left it alone. Generally the food in Portugal was very good value. I do miss the Spanish Tapas.
totallyphil.blogspot.com.au

I remember learning the hard way that you will have to pay for anything that you eat that is put on the table, whether you ask for it or not. That's just the Portuguese custom. I have learned, though, that there's no pressure to eat anything, if you feel like it, eat it, if not, just ignore it and you won't be charged for it. Sometimes those little plates are full of good things! In fact, in a favorite Lisbon restaurant, I eat the octopus salad they always put out as an appetizer and then have a green salad for dinner. No one bats an eye. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[DurhamParish]

3. I'm travelling solo and have a terrible sense of direction. Are there plenty of yellow arrows? What advice would you give to me to avoid going the wrong way?

The only time I got lost in Portugal is when I was distracted by six of the prettiest young girls you could ever hope to see. By the time we parted ways there wasn't a yellow arrow to be seen anywhere. Had to turn around and go back until I found where I lost the trail.

 

[donnercruiser]

I am back from my camino Porto to SdC since a few days. I had have lots of nice experiances and impressions. I dont speak any portuguese or spanish, except some basic phrases. For the first three days i had rain and i was walking solo. Day Nr. 4 brought sunschine and other pilgrims to my camino. I did not use any guidebook and trusted to be lead from above. The way was well marked and in situations i thought i have lost my direction, somebody helped with advice. And mostely i did not ask for. No bedbugs seen, and i slept in albergues, hostels and hotels. I did the camino in 9 days instead 12. Spending one day in Porto is a must. Please expect always some rain. So if you are prepaired, it wont hit you hard. The people from Galicia are very kind and friendly. Speak with your heart and communicate, you wont have any problems.

 

[helenamary]

I'm also planning my first camino for next spring and would very much like to walk the Portuguese way. The only problem I can see is not being able to speak the language. When you're on your own, how do you phone ahead whilst on the camino to reserve a room, which many of them seem to ask (as much as I can glean from the links)? It's a bit daunting, tbh. I'd try and learn Portuguese but I'm absolutely useless at languages. I took French at school for four years and still can't understand it, and have tried many other languages with the same results, lol. Any suggestions anyone? Or perhaps I should go for the camino Frances first...although I've really got my heart set on Portugal. Cheers.

I'm walking the Portugese Camino at the moment & am pleasantly surprised how many Portugese either speak or understand English. I walked the Frances Camino last year & had many more problems with the language(or lack of it) there.

 

[helenamary]

The only time I got lost in Portugal is when I was distracted by six of the prettiest young girls you could ever hope to see. By the time we parted ways there wasn't a yellow arrow to be seen anywhere. Had to turn around and go back until I found where I lost the trail.

The signposting in Portugal if fantastic, it would be fairly impossible to get lost, thanks to whoever has painted all those yellow arrows & crosses along the way

 

[Gailsie]

Good to know that the signage is good as I am directionally challenged. The abundance of arrows should help me. Also I was a bit concerned about having no language skills as my pronunciation is so horrible that I usually do not try anything other than please and thank you. If I have anything complicated to ask, I use my dictionary and write down what I want to say.

 

[helenamary]

Good to know that the signage is good as I am directionally challenged. The abundance of arrows should help me. Also I was a bit concerned about having no language skills as my pronunciation is so horrible that I usually do not try anything other than please and thank you. If I have anything complicated to ask, I use my dictionary and write down what I want to say.

 

[helenamary]

 

[Pelegrin]

helenamary, posted: I'm walking the Portugese Camino at the moment & am pleasantly surprised how many Portugese either speak or understand English. I walked the Frances Camino last year & had many more problems with the language"

Yes Portuguese people speak and understand better English than Spanish people. There are historic reasons, but the most inportant IMO is that they watch always American films in theatres and on the Tv in original version with subtitles, whereas in Spain we always have films dubbed into Spanish, Galician, Catalan or Basque . So, the Portuguese are accustomed to native English sounds from chilhood. In Spain, in theory, all people under 40 should understand some English but they have learnt at school from Spanish English teachers. so they really can not understand native English speakers in phrases a little more complicated than "My name is ", "I am from" or "How much?". If I were you I asked only young people the simpler the better: Shop food ? Toilet? Santiago direction?, etc, trying to get closer to normative English pronountiation. f. i, I say "uoter" instead of "uora" (water), forty instead of fory, etc.

 

[zsit]

Hello everyone and thanks very much for your reply, I feel more relaxed now.
Cannot wait to start my Camino

 

[CanPete]

You'll have a blast; the Portuguese are very hospitable people and are often more than happy to help . . .
Buen Camino and Bom Caminho !!

 

[Michal P]

I remember learning the hard way that you will have to pay for anything that you eat that is put on the table, whether you ask for it or not. That's just the Portuguese custom. I have learned, though, that there's no pressure to eat anything, if you feel like it, eat it, if not, just ignore it and you won't be charged for it. Sometimes those little plates are full of good things! In fact, in a favorite Lisbon restaurant, I eat the octopus salad they always put out as an appetizer and then have a green salad for dinner. No one bats an eye. Bom caminho, Laurie

Hello peregrina2000 and all of you at this forum!

Do you remember name/address of this restaurant in Lisbon? I'll have some days there, would love to try it.

Thank you in advance!

 

[peregrina2000]

Oh, yes, I remember the name. It is called Carvoeiro da Palma, it is not at all centrally located though. Closest metro stop is Laranjeiras. The grilled fish is excellent, really excellent. Simple, fresh, delicious. It is located across a highway on an overpass from the Universidade Catolica. It's really an interesting little neighborhood, old houses and cobbled streets, surrounded by big apartment buildings and the highway.

A more centrally located favorite is Adega Sao Roque, near the church by the same name in the Bairro Alto. They do great grilled fish and serve a fish and seafood stew called cataplana de marisco that is delicious (but you need two people).

And one more favorite, to round out my list of favorite down home kinds of places is the Adega das Gravatas, also out of the way, near the metro stop Carnide. Great fish and grilled meat on a hot stone -- they bring the stone and the raw meat.

In my humble opinion, the best food Lisbon has to offer is the simplest -- unbelievably fresh grilled fish and grilled meats, fresh unadorned vegetables and potatoes, and good red wine.

 

[Diogo92]

Oh, yes, I remember the name. It is called Carvoeiro da Palma, it is not at all centrally located though. Closest metro stop is Laranjeiras. The grilled fish is excellent, really excellent. Simple, fresh, delicious. It is located across a highway on an overpass from the Universidade Catolica. It's really an interesting little neighborhood, old houses and cobbled streets, surrounded by big apartment buildings and the highway.

A more centrally located favorite is Adega Sao Roque, near the church by the same name in the Bairro Alto. They do great grilled fish and serve a fish and seafood stew called cataplana de marisco that is delicious (but you need two people).

And one more favorite, to round out my list of favorite down home kinds of places is the Adega das Gravatas, also out of the way, near the metro stop Carnide. Great fish and grilled meat on a hot stone -- they bring the stone and the raw meat.

In my humble opinion, the best food Lisbon has to offer is the simplest -- unbelievably fresh grilled fish and grilled meats, fresh unadorned vegetables and potatoes, and good red wine.

And pastries, don't forget the pastries

 

[peregrina2000]

Diogo, and amsimoes, could you list the names and addresses of a couple of central places with delicious pasteis de nata? I know they are good almost everywhere, and the little place where we met in February is a great example of a no-frills place with pastries that melt in your mouth!

 

[amsimoes]

Laurie

In my opinion the best "pastel de nata" are these:


The Best

Pastelaria Marianita
Queluz


Very Good

Pastelaria Aloma
R. Francisco Metrass, 67, Lisboa


Loja Nata Lisboa da Rua da Prata
Rua da Prata, 78 – Lisboa



Good

Confeitaria Nacional.
Praça da Figueira 18B – Lisboa


Pastéis de Belém
Rua Belém 84-92 – Lisboa


Of course, there are others opinions, but these are the ones I know best.


Bom Caminho
AMSimoes

 

[Diogo92]

Laurie

In my opinion the best "pastel de nata" are these:


The Best

Pastelaria Marianita
Queluz


Very Good

Pastelaria Aloma
R. Francisco Metrass, 67, Lisboa


Loja Nata Lisboa da Rua da Prata
Rua da Prata, 78 – Lisboa



Good

Confeitaria Nacional.
Praça da Figueira 18B – Lisboa


Pastéis de Belém
Rua Belém 84-92 – Lisboa


Of course, there are others opinions, but these are the ones I know best.


Bom Caminho
AMSimoes

You've said it all

 

[CanPete]

How about Pastelaria Gomes, Vila Real ???

Also known for their Covilhetes . . . .

Laurie

In my opinion the best "pastel de nata" are these:


The Best

Pastelaria Marianita
Queluz


Very Good

Pastelaria Aloma
R. Francisco Metrass, 67, Lisboa


Loja Nata Lisboa da Rua da Prata
Rua da Prata, 78 – Lisboa



Good

Confeitaria Nacional.
Praça da Figueira 18B – Lisboa


Pastéis de Belém
Rua Belém 84-92 – Lisboa


Of course, there are others opinions, but these are the ones I know best.


Bom Caminho
AMSimoes

 

[Antonio Hidalgo]

Has anyone walked from Tui to Santiago ? Have you taken the new option detour , to avoid the The Industrial Route?
We are going on june 4 and will appriciate any information. Thanks

 

[Diogo92]

Has anyone walked from Tui to Santiago ? Have you taken the new option detour , to avoid the The Industrial Route?
We are going on june 4 and will appriciate any information. Thanks

Well, it's a wonderful thing to walk, but it adds at least more 3km to the day. Oh, and if you take it, take some food with you, because you will only find some expensive vending machines, and some cafés, some 150m to go, and 150m to come back, from the Caminho.

 

[Tad]

Have you taken the new option detour , to avoid the The Industrial Route?

I just got back from the Camino this week and I would definitely take the detour. The views are quite nice and the path feels great on the feet after all the cobblestones.

Just a note: there are lots of posters up about the detour in the albergues and on poles along the way. Take a second to look at the pictures of where the two turns are. A number of waymarks for the new route were covered or defaced...rumor has it by merchants who are now bypassed...and we found some false ones put up. But don't sweat it; the turns aren't hard to spot just from the images.

 

[AllanHG]

Thank to Gerard for posing the very questions about the CP that I also have in mind. Like you, I did the CF last April-May, starting from SJPP and am planning to do the CP from Lisbon, in September. And thank to Scruffy1 for your precise answers.
Can anyone give additional advice for starting in early September? Is this a good time weather wise (rain, temperature...), crowd wise (I like people but prefer fewer to more) and hostel availability (any closure this time of year) etc.
Thank you.

What is the distance from Lisbon to Santiago? I am also interested in the weather, crowds and and hostel availability. Thanks,

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, AllanHG, welcome to the forum,
The very first bit of advice I would give you is to read Magwood's wonderful blog on her walk from Lisbon to Santiago, you can find it here: http://magwood.wordpress.com/camino-portuguese/

Weather, crowds, and hostel availability are going to vary quite a bit from Lisbon to Santiago. Weather gets rainier as you go north, and the crowds increase as well. Very few people before Porto, a healthier crowd till Tui, then a full fledged crowd till Santiago. There are lots of posts with updates on the albergues in the Camino Portugues section, and check out the online guides (updated a few months ago) in the Resources section of this forum.

There are lots of Camino Portugues aficionados on the forum, so you can be sure your questions will get some attention. Bom caminho, Laurie

 

[Magwood]

Has anyone walked from Tui to Santiago ? Have you taken the new option detour , to avoid the The Industrial Route?
We are going on june 4 and will appriciate any information. Thanks

Sorry this is a bit late for you Antonio, but for anyone interested in this question check out this thread .

Bom caminho, Maggie

 

[amorfati1]

What is the distance from Lisbon to Santiago? I am also interested in the weather, crowds and and hostel availability. Thanks,

You did not provide the travel details ...which time of year you intend to walk.
But summer tends to be hot and humid ....i already had lots of hot days when walking early May ( which is just my cuppa tea)
There are some hostels ( Santarem, Tomar, etc) but the only albergue i stayed in BEFORE Porto, was in Coimbra/ Santa Clara in the Rainha Isabel monastery. ( 14 beds, one bathroom, 8 euros) Loved staying there...
Also stayed @ the Quinta Marchanta in Ponte de Muge, right between Azambuja and Santarem.
I just finished the Caminho, and am back in Portugal... Lingering....in Cascais near Lisbon...hot and smoldering...
Crowds???
Never encountered one until Spain....
Have a lovely experience...whenever you may embark on your pilgrimage...
Claudia




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