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Camino Portugués: A Winter Pilgrimage from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela

RebeccaGER

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Time of past OR future Camino
CP Porto - SdC
CP Lisbon - SdC
Camino Portugués: A Winter Pilgrimage from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela

As we set foot on the Camino Portugués, leaving Lisbon behind, the noise of everyday life began to fade into the background. Our lives fell into a simple, steady rhythm—walking, eating, searching for shelter for the night, and caring for our bodies to rest and recover after a long day. With every step, the journey became less about the destination itself and more about the moments in between.

The Beauty of Winter on the Camino
The wintertime lent a special charm to the trail. Villages and towns were adorned with Christmas lights, nativity scenes, and festive decorations that sparkled against the crisp air. The seasonal treats were a delight: Bolo Rei with its colorful candied fruit became a favorite, alongside countless other local specialties.

We had been warned about the stretch between Lisbon and Porto—that it wasn’t worth the effort, with limited accommodations and less scenic paths. Nothing could have been further from the truth. Yes, there were tarmac roads and sections along highways, but these were balanced by stunning landscapes: bamboo and eucalyptus forests, sprawling vineyards, quaint villages, and open woodlands. The diversity of terrain made every day an adventure, a testament to the Camino’s ability to surprise and inspire.

Moments of Kindness and Connection
The people along the way made this journey unforgettable. Everywhere we went, locals extended their kindness and warmth. We were greeted with cheerful “Bom Caminho” and “Boa Viagem” from strangers. One offered us oranges plucked freshly from their trees; an albergue host shared homemade soup to ward off the chill of a quiet albergue. On Christmas morning, a kind soul helped us find an open café for breakfast, ensuring we started the day well.

One night, when the albergue’s restaurant had closed, the owner went out of his way to prepare a private dinner for us, setting up a table with local food in the quiet dormitory. Another time, we were invited to share rounds of Ginjinha, a cherry liqueur, with locals. These acts of generosity reminded us of the Camino’s essence—human connection and the goodness of others.

Spontaneity and Freedom
Each day unfolded without a rigid plan. We decided our destination on the fly, allowing us to embrace spontaneity and adapt to whatever the trail brought our way. This flexibility led to unexpected adventures, like private tours of churches in small villages, a pub crawl in a tiny village, where all locals were dressed as Santa, or sampling unknown pastries with just a curious point and a smile.

The weather was a gift: 16 days of sunshine, one overcast day, and just one day of rain. Even when the Galician rain finally arrived, it felt like a rite of passage—a reminder of the Camino’s unpredictability and the resilience it inspires.

The Trail Family
After Porto, my partner and I met a group of fellow pilgrims who would come to define the Camino for us. Our “trail family” consisted of three Americans, one Austrian, and us, two Germans, each of us drawn together by the shared rhythm of the path. Though we came from different backgrounds, the Camino bond formed quickly and effortlessly, as if the Camino had meant for us to find one another.

We shared stories about our lives, laughed at our quirks, and supported each other through every challenge. I learnt so much from my fellow pilgrims, while the miles to Santiago passed quicker and quicker. When I struggled with heavy pain in my shin on a day, without hesitation, others stepped in to share the load of my backpack and carried it. Everyone was there for each other, whether it was a lending hand or an open ear, or an emergency chocolate.

We shared everything, from improvised hiker meals cooked with a single pot, one spoon and a knife to a plastic bag of half a cake passed around mid-walk. A small hairdryer became a small treasure as we used it to dry rain-soaked shoes. We laughed over jokes and situations that only Camino-weary pilgrims would find funny.

The Final Steps to Santiago
Reaching the plaza in front of Santiago’s cathedral was a moment of pure emotion. Tears, hugs, and smiles filled the air as we stood together, realizing we had achieved something far greater than completing a pilgrims walk.

Inside the cathedral, we embraced the statue of Saint James, a gesture of gratitude for the journey, the friendships, and the memories we had made. It was a moment of quiet reflection, a way of closing the chapter while knowing the experience would stay with me forever.

Camino Magic
The true magic of the Camino was not in the over 600 kilometers we walked but in the connections we made. The generosity of strangers, the shared moments of struggle and joy, and the friendships forged along the way are what I will treasure most.

This journey has left an indelible mark on my heart. I set out to walk the Camino Portugués seeking a challenge, but I found so much more: a sense of community, a deeper appreciation for life’s simple pleasures, and memories to last a lifetime.
First and foremost to my trail family, the locals who welcomed us, and the Camino itself—thank you for this extraordinary gift.
 
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What a great report! I loved the Lisbon Porto stretch and also take a flexible approach to my walks. Unfortunately I've often noticed negative, misleading or inflated comments about Caminos, or parts thereof, by people who often haven't actually done them. Ive found this about the via Augusta, VDP and particularly the main stretch of the CP. I'm glad you persevered and did it at what was clearly a very memorable and meaningful time. I just hope your well written and beautiful description of the CP encourages more to start in Lisbon.
 

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