Camino Lemovicensis / section Vézelay - Limoges / sept-oct 2016

[GunnarW]

Hello,

I did the section Vézelay till Limoges in september/october 2016 in 14 days. The walked distance was 447km.
I will post some pictures and leave some comments on regulary base.
The guide I used is distributed by Lepère Editions. It's also written in French. Like in the Miam Miam Do Do guide, it contains the road description, maps and sleeping places. The guide from Lepère includes also some information about historical sites. Also important is that you can receive the latest changes / updates by sending an email. The guide is even for sale in the tourist office of La Charité sur Loire.

The guide describes both sections (North: Vézelay - La Charité sur Loire - Eguzon AND South: Vézelay - Nevers - Eguzon) and even describes a three day "South 2" alternative.

 

[GunnarW]

Before you start walking in Vézelay, you need to decide which section you will walk. Section North or section South?
The intersection between North and South is 100m after you passed the gate of Vézelay.
I choose for a combination of both sections. I started walking on the North section. At La Charité Sur Loire, I walked on the GR654 till Nevers and continued the South Section. The distance between La Charité sur Loire and Nevers is 33km. It's a very beautiful walk. You can also walk to Nevers by following the Loire upstream.

 

[GunnarW]

Day 1: Vézelay - Moulin de Merle (Thurigny)

Vézelay


The walk on the North section starts with a walk through a forest


First village after the forest: Maison-Dieu


Heading to Asnois

 

[GunnarW]

Day 2: Moulin de Merle (Thurigny) - Châteauneuf Val de Bargis.
CVdB is a few km off road but has a gite municipal with 14 beds devided in 3 rooms.
The village of Arbourse, which is a regular stop, has a gite with 4 beds but was too small for our "family".


heading to Cuncy-Les-Varzy





War monument in Varzy


Champlemy

 

[peregrina2000]

Yay! Gunnar is back. So glad you will share your experience on this route. Lovely pics, as always !

 

[mla1]

Hi Gunnar, Wonder photos. I'm looking forward to learning more about your walk. Did you meet many other pilgrims?

 

[SabsP]

Gunnar! Yeah...good to see you again. Will make a lovely read again.

Dank je.

 

[Kanga]

This looks like a beautiful walk.

 

[backpack45]

It looks like you averaged almost 20 miles per day. Do you think it would be possible to find accommodations if you had gone only half of that? Thanks!

 

[GunnarW]

Hello Laurie: thank you for the compliment
Hello Mia: in Vézelay in the centre Madeleine, we were (too) many (in the kitchen) (compared with last year when I arrived at Vézelay). There were some English spoken persons who were doing day trips (who were sleeping in individual rooms which is allowed), there were two bikers and even two journalists from La Libre Belgique who were staying there several days.
First I did the North section with 2 work colleagues till Nevers. During that section, there was Geneviève from Mulhouse (F), Guy from Jodoigne (B) and a guy we met at day 2 - I forgot his name - who was following the GR654.
At Nevers, It was a solo trip except I met 2 Canadians during the last week. In the guest books, there was average a pilgrim or two on the road each 1 or 2 days.
Hello Sabine: I think you already walked this section. So you can see if you recognize the places.
Hello B45: yes, it must be possible to do sections of 15 - 20 km except maybe the section La Charité - Nevers (if you plan this switch over). Always call in the evening to check if the host is available. For "auberges communals", there was always a list on the door or an explanation in the guide who can be called or where can you retrieve the key if the "mairie" was closed.
Hello Kanga: it's a nice track with many highlights. There were some long stretches on concrete roads. Sometimes walking a part on the GR654 is a solution but will extend your walk.

 

[GunnarW]

Arrived in Chateauneuf Val de Bargis, we decided to walk the first part on the GR654. It was a beautiful walk and look who we met:



The GR654 towards Chasnay


Still on the



...GR654


Chasnay after 5 km.


Heading to Raveau

 

[SabsP]

Hi Gunnar, no we just had our regular holidays here no Camino...

 

[GunnarW]

Back at the Via Lemovicensis arriving at Raveau.


heading to La Charité sur Loire


La Charité sur Loire

La Charité sur Loire is the first historical town on the way. Since the Middle Ages, pilgrims are welcome.
As mentioned before, I decided to leave the Northern part. On the Northern section, there are other interesting cultural sites like Bourges et Châteauroux. The problem is the landscape. I read that you will walk for hours in weedfields. When I took the train back at Limoges, it was indeed all weed fields and flat country.

 

[GunnarW]

So I decided to walk till Nevers by following the GR654. I attached the recorded GPX track of my walk. It's about 33 km that can be reduced with +/- 1 km just before Parigny Les Vaux. Also I took a much simple way when crossing the A77 highway. I didn't take the tunnel but the bridge.
Here are some pictures:











Nevers


Nevers

 

[GunnarW]

From Nevers, I walked two stages in one day till Augy Sur Aubois.
Nevers - Grossouvre = 24,5km
Grossouvre - Augy Sur Aubois = 17km
I left Nevers at 6:00. The first 5 km, you need to walk the Loire downstream. In my case I needed to walk again direction La Charité



After Gimouille, you will walk along a small canal that will cross the river L'Allier on an aquaduct.


After Apremont, there is a walk on the D road for 8 km with private lands on the left and private lands on the right. Time to take out a music player and listen to some music during 2 full hours... because it's forbidden to penetrate the forest or to walk on the private roads.

 

[GunnarW]

Grossouvre, first village after the 8km walk.

After Grossouvre


A few km after Grossouvre starts the walk along the Canal de Berry


I quit at Sancoins the Canal de Berry and walked till Augy Sur Aubois.

 

[GunnarW]

After Augy Sur Aubois, the walk is very simple. Just follow the Canal de Berry...


The problem with the canal was that the locks were constructed too small when they did the construction in the 19th century. Only 2,7 m wide. Just OK for small boats.


Sometimes, it was possible to walk in the canal....


Arrived at St Amand Montrond

 

[GunnarW]

Bouzais, in the morning


Limousin cows. A high quality cow. Limousin cows are brown and have white rings around their eyes and mouth.


Le Châtelet




Billboard at Château Meillant. Behind the billboard, there is the tourism office where you can ask for a stamp.

 

[Kanga]

Absolutely stunning photos @GunnarW - it looks entrancing.

 

[GunnarW]

Thank you for the feedback, Kanga.
Let's continue...
The village Neret




La Chatre


Heading towards Sarzay


I took some time to visit the castle of Sarzay. The guy who is reconstructing the castle worked at the electricity company EDF. And yes, he has a stamp for your credencial.


Arrived at Cluis

 

[GunnarW]

And now the most beautiful walk: Cluis till Crozant

First the walk over an ancient railroad bridge


Just before Gargilesse, I didn't follow the Via Lemovicensis, I didn't follow the GR654. I found a trail on my GPS along the river Gargilesse in a gorge. I took the risk to follow it because it could be possible that the trail wasn't existing or too dangerous: in fact it was awesome and little bit shorter then the Via.


The village Gargilesse


Heading to Eguzon, Crozant


Near Crozant


Crozant

 

[GunnarW]

The way to St Agnant


La Sousterraine

 

[GunnarW]

Direction St Priest la Feuille, normally along a D road. I searched my own through a forest with succes.



Just before St Priest La Feuille, you can make a small detour to visit the dolmen.


Direction Bénévent l'Abbaye


Bénévent l'Abbaye

 

[GunnarW]

Some rain heading to Les Billanges. I don't think the walk in this wood was the official road but it was shorter and much nicer.


Direction the highest point of the Via Lemovicensis at St Goussaud


Une lanterne des morts à St Goussaud

 

[GunnarW]

Direction Chatelus Le Marcheix


Les Billanges

 

[peregrina2000]

Gunnar, you are making me rethink my decision to walk the Baztanes/Norte this year. Actually, it wasn't a decision, it was the toss of a coin, but I just couldn't decide between France and Spain. It wasn't the language difference holding me back (I speak virtually no French), but the uncertainty about the "camino feeling.". When I walked from LePUy, I ended in Pamplona feeling like I had had a beautiful walking experience but not really a camino. Can you comment on that? I know the Vezelay route may be different than the Arles route.

BTW, I don't see pics in the post #17 and beyond. The ones I do see are gorgeous! Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Purky]

I hope you'll forgive me the intrusion, but in the beginning of this year I walked from Breda in The Netherlands to Santiago. I choose the Vezelay route through France, so I walked roughly the same section from Vézelay to Limoges as Gunnar did (except the bit between Vezelay and Nevers, where I followed the southbound Via Lemovicensis).
The reason I'm writing this, is that the atmosphere I felt during my walk can be categorised in four distinct slices of camino, if you will. Belgium, the north of France, the south of France and Spain.
For me all those sections were of course an integral part of my camino, but they each had a distinctly different feel to them, and it wasn't just the difference in landscapes. It also had to do with culture, the number of pilgrims (or lack thereof) passing through and of course the weather. Stuff like that.
In that sense I had (at least) four camino feelings, and that is not counting everything else that was going on. So Laurie, it depends on your definition of camino feeling whether or not the Via Lemovicensis is your specific cup of tea.
Other than that, it's a beautiful walk, so a big thanks to Gunnar for the pics and bringing back some memories!

 

[GunnarW]

Hello Laurie and Purky,

Thank you for your feedback.
Yes indeed, the camino Lemovicensis and the camino Campaniensis (Rocroi at the Belgian border => Vézelay) are different then the Camino Frances.
First of all, there are lesser pilgrims on the road. During Spring and Summer, you will meet easily other pilgrims because their goal is to reach Compostela. In September and October, the months I prefer to walk caminos, there are an average of 2-4 pilgrims walking every 2 days. I took this conclusion while reading different guest books.
Most of the time, I was alone in albergues, guest houses, hotels. The advantage is you don't need to stress for a bed. Off course alone is sometimes not funny. In some places, I ate with the owner in her/his kitchen which is nice. I will come back at the end with a list of the places where I stayed.

In France they speak French. As you will pass many small places where you meet mostly old people, the only language is their mother language. Speaking some French is nice for communication but you will survive if your knowledge is basic. I need to say that 1 hotel-guest house and 1 albergue where owned by English people.

One of my "favorite" conversations with other pilgrims or owners is about bedbugs (punaises de lit) on the road. Until now - let's hope it will stay - there are no bedbugs noticed.

Laurie, I can understand your comment about the "no camino feeling" in France. Did you know that many pilgrims in France aren't motivated to start the Spanish part because it's overcrowded and too commercial? Purky is right, the complete camino can be categorised in distinct slices of camino each having pro's and contra's.

Did you know that between Vézelay and Le Puy, there is also camino (following a GR road I think nr 13). I think you can compare this with the camino Olvidado you did in 2014. The distance is +/- 15 walking days and there is lesser accommodation. I had the plan to follow this way but I canceled because I wanted at least a little bit camino feeling and pass some cultural sites.

As there are many high quality pictures posted, the complete page needs to load completely and it can take at least 30 seconds. If you notice it didn't load complete completely, press the key F5 or Ctrl + R.

 

[Purky]

In Bénévent-l’Abbaye I met a French pilgrim who took the Voie de Rocamadour to Rocamadour (obviously...). After that there is the option to take the GR 46 to Cahors, which lands you smack in the middle of the Via Podiensis or the Le Puy Route. And there are probably more ways to connect the Vézelay Route to the Way of Le Puy. Ah, so little time and so much to walk...

 

[LesBrass]

Beautiful photos...the one of the stag is incredible!

I live very near to St Astier... If you find yourself in this area maybe send me a message... There a great restaurant in the town and a fabulous huge market every Thursday.

I had even thought about offering pilgrim accommodation but we're 12km from town... So too far... But I'd always be happy to offer assistance... And coffee...

 

[GunnarW]

Hello person who lives close to St.-Astier,

St-Astier is the next stop after Périgueux.
It seems the walk between d'Anesse-et-Beaulieu and St-Astier is maybe rather boring along the D3 - D41.
As the walk is only 21,5 km, maybe there is a possibility to extend it over the hills (red arrows on the map) ? Do you have an idea?
(source: Le Père Editions - Camino Lemovicensis)

 

[Kanga]

It is @LesBrass (Colleen) who lives near St-Astier. I think she walks a lot locally and may have some ideas.

 

[Purky]

Saint-Astier made me, and the Belgian pilgrim I was walking with that day, feel very welcome. It was Pentecost sunday, the weather was great and there was a big art market happening on the central square in Saint-Astier. Where they also served cold beer, which for me is the best after a day's hike.
We got talking with the locals quick, and the man who said he was in charge of organising the market asked us if we had a place to sleep for that evening. If not, we were welcome at his place. We accepted gratefully, a little surprised though at the speed things were developing.
So was his wife, as it turned out. But she accepted our presence gracefully and extended us the courtesy by also inviting us to a home cooked dinner. Which turned out to be very animated, because us two pilgrims had a couple of good stories to tell, much to the delight of the two young boys of the family (8 & 13).
All was well at Saint-Astier that day.

As for the route, I used the Vézelay guide published by the Dutch Association of Saint James which is based on the Dutch translation of the famous "yellow" guide: Voie Historique de Vézelay by Monique Chassain. Great guide and also available in English (see the post from espritduchemin in this Vézelay Route section for more info).
Just after Les Fieux and Gravelle it led me along the river L'Isle and the canal to Annesse from where I followed the voie verte (green way, paths reserved for bicycles and hikers) and again the river and a canal to Saint-Astier. It looks a lot like I took that blue dotted route on Gunnar's map. Much better than along the D3.

 

[LesBrass]

Hello and I am sorry for my slow reply... I'm back from my VdlP walk and was in hospital for a simple pre-planned op which seemed like a good idea at the time but I'm going stir crazy at the moment

There are a few circular walks around St Astier... I know the area above Chancelade well as I drive from St Astier to Bussac every week to rehearse... but I dont know about al of walking routes... however there are a few resources that might help... like this...

http://www.dordogne-perigord-tourisme.fr/nature et loisirs/rando/pedestre/images/carto_St_Astier.pdf

We've done a number of these walks... they have always been well marked so maybe you could use the map and hop between walks?

Alternatively the Voie Vert from Perigueux is almost complete... I dont think it's 100% but my husband thinks maybe only a very small section. He thinks this map might help you if you wanted to take the path along the river?

http://www.tourisme-isleperigord.com/carte-interactive
http://www.tourisme-isleperigord.com/carte-interactive
I hope this helps? Please do ask away if you need anything else... I'm watching the thread now so I'll get an email and I'm at home so I'll be quicker.

 

[LesBrass]

p.s. my husband has just used google earth to walk the voie vert route and he feels its complete... we've not walked it for real but the section that he wasnt sure about, he says is a country lane and it looks open? So this might be a prettier option? When my leg is better I should go and try it!

 

[GunnarW]

Hello Lesbrass,

Thank you for the links. The first one with the pdf map "vaut de l'or" - has the value of gold. I will certainly study to see if there is a possibility to follow partially the suggested walks and to jump from one to the other.
Also the second one "the voie verte" is very interesting. I remember the voie verte leaving Troyes - on the Via Campaniensis - which was very nice to follow.
Again thank you for you answer with valuable information.

 

[LesBrass]

@GunnarW there are a number of these maps around... not all are online yet but it is getting better.

http://rando.dordogne.fr/

The above link takes you to a good site for this department. Once there you need to go to the Pied menu option... there are walks and routes on maps which you can download in GPS format and import into something like mapmywalk... then you could play with the routes for your walk. I use the 5km + map... it opens a map with lots of little yellow routes... you can click on a route and download a zipped file of the gps maps... it's a little convoluted but it works well.

I've often found that if I put randonee + the location in a search often a local website will list a few options. It's not always the case but if there are other areas that you wish to adapt you might find this useful? We just use it to find new places to visit... so I'm glad it was helpful.

Happy walking

 

[Purky]

"the voie verte" is very interesting

I found the photo I took of the map of the Voie Vert I followed from d'Anesse-et-Beaulieu to St-Astier. After that it follows the river to Mussidan and beyond, where this particular Voie Vert and the Vezelay route part ways. Maybe you find it helpful.

 

[LesBrass]

I found the photo I took of the map of the Voie Vert I followed from d'Anesse-et-Beaulieu to St-Astier. After that it follows the river to Mussidan and beyond, where this particular Voie Vert and the Vezelay route part ways. Maybe you find it helpful.

View attachment 30555

The Voie Vert I'm guessing crosses the Camino at Sourzac? The Vezeley continues over the bridge, across the road and up through the back lanes to Mussidan, I think there was an albergue somewhere along this section... but I'm not 100% sure? So you could follow the Voie to Sourzac and then hop back on the camino?

We've decided to go and walk St Astier to Pergieux in a week or so... it's lovely weather at the moment and I'm almost mobile again after my op... and have very itchy feet... the Voie seems a good way of getting back to fitness without being too strenuous (no hills ). We'll then go the other way down to Sourzac and I'll keep you posted.

@Purky I'm glad you have fond memories of St Astier

 

[Purky]

There is a albergue municipal in Mussidan, on Place Victor Hugo, not far after crossing the river where you enter the city. And a very nice bar, just after the bridge on the left...
And you can pick up the Vezelay Route in Mussidan again, by the church.

 

[LesBrass]

@Purky -Although I walked this bit of the route I have no idea what/where albergues are... so its a good job you remember!

There's also a great restuarant opposite the church in St Asiter called the Palombiere... they do a great menu... it's our most favourite local restaurant... there is also a good pizza restaurant beside it and a Chinese restauarant (but we've not tried that yet).

 

[Purky]

@Purky -Although I walked this bit of the route I have no idea what/where albergues are... so its a good job you remember!

There's also a great restuarant opposite the church in St Asiter called the Palombiere... they do a great menu... it's our most favourite local restaurant... there is also a good pizza restaurant beside it and a Chinese restauarant (but we've not tried that yet).

I remember eating in a snackbar just around the corner of that bar I mentioned earlier. That wasn't too bad either, a little junkfood now and then is good for putting back some fat on the bones... (I lost 12 kilo's on my camino, I just couldn't seem to eat enough)

I also remember a long conversation with the two owners of aforementioned bar. They were telling me that everybody they knew in Mussidan was leaving for the bigger cities. Less and less restaurants, bars, shops, a very sad story. I couldn't help but noticing the same happening all over France in little towns. Heartbreaking, really.

Hope you'll be back on your feet and back in shape in no time. You live in a beautiful part of France, walk-wise, so that shouldn't be a problem!

 

[GunnarW]

Member Connie reminded me I had the intention to publish the places where I stayed.
Here I go.
1 Vézelay: Centre Madeleine: nice reception, each dormitorio (man & woman separated) has only 1 shower and 1 restroom.
2 Moulin de Merle: nice place, it's a small old castle with a Dutch family. I liked it.
3 Chateauneuf Val de Bargis (a little bit off road): auberge municipal. Good!
4 La Charité sur Loire: chez mme Ira Schulz, German lady, you better ask the actual price in advance, nice old place, as all the rooms are connected and she sleeps also in the house, its better to check with other pilgrims and reserve in group.
switch from N to S....
5 Nevers: acceuil chrétien Monastère Visitation: a little bit out of the centre, small rooms in a corridor, nice place, there was no option to dinner but enough places in Nevers.
6 Augy sur Aubois: dutch auberge, very nice, it has the spirit of an Spanish auberge
7 St Amand Montrond: there was no place in the centre des jeunes travailleurs so I choose Hotel l'écu which was OK. Very good bed, finally some real sheets to sleep in.
8 Chateaumeillant: chez mme Chabert, old lady who made a nice place for pilgrims in her house, don't take here too serious, she like to make jokes (for example if you want an extra piece of bread, she will reply: I will charge you an extra....) nice meal with wine, she was a famous singer and made appearance in Japan, ask before bedtime if she would like to sing a song on her piano. The song "Appelez-moi Dracule" is very funny.
9 Cluis: auberge municipal: very nice, has a dryer you can use for free.
10 Crozant: nice auberge municipal in an old primary school. very small toilets, only one restaurant which was closed during my stay. But there is a grocery store = the place where you can retrieve the key.
11 La Souterraine: chez Ronway (English), maisonnumerneuf.com, a lovely place, nice food!!!, nice breakfast !!!
12 Bénévent l'Abbaye: chez Godson (also English), very nice gite! the daughter runs a small restaurant where you can eat a nice hamburger.
13 Billanges: chez Françoise (she designed the stamp of house Godson, [it's an owl]), very nice place plenty of art, she prepares the food, I reconnected here sound system so you can listen to your mp3 player on speakers, pay attention while stepping out of the shower: the white stone is very slippery, also the blue rectangle stone fixed is sharp and can hurt your feet.
14 St Leonard de Noblat: Refuge associative: very nice with free laundry machine and dryer. No need to reserve in advance: a telephone list is hanging outside and you will receive a code to enter. The hospitalero will come later.
15 Limoges: Hotel de Paris: it was close to the railway station, nice hotel.