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Camino Interior - Portugal

flewitheagles

Active Member
Donating Member
Time of past OR future Camino
Frances - 2009
Portuguese Interior (2014)
Hadrian's Wall (2017)
Porto to SdC ( Seaside) 2019
I have completed the Interior route and will post some thoughts and "findings" in a few days (ok, maybe a few weeks since I just got home). My first post is to ask a question of some thoughtful pilgrim. Is there anyone who could send me a picture of Casa de Cesar? I had a "brain cramp" and didn't get one to go with my picture of Casa de Tomas (the last of the Knights Templar) on the Frances route.

You can send it to this email: westernkyep@gmail.com

Oh, and lest I forget, Aurelio (who posts on occasion) was the most gracious host a pilgrim could imagine and it was a great pleasure meeting and speaking with Ivar, who is even more helpful in person than he is "online."
 
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Very much looking forward to your post. We are walking the Portugues next June but haven't yet decided whether to do the in-land or coastal route.
 


Hi Richard

I'm glad you finished the Caminho Português do Interior a Santiago (Portuguese Way of the Interio).
I know it was hard, but I think it was gratifying to landscapes and by the view of the Douro vineyards.

The Hernani, our friend Pilgrim of Vila Real sends you greetings.

We await for comments on the way, to try to correct the negative aspects.

AMSimões
 
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We are also planning to walk that rout next year. Looking forward to hear more about your experience Richard.
 
could someone comment on the difference in distance and terrain between the coastal and interior routes? Thanks very much!
 
 
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In the attached files I show five films with the Portuguese Caminho of the Interior, which was conducted in August by bicycle.
I hope you enjoy and love this Caminho as I love him. The most beautiful season is autumn (September and October).






AMSimoes
 
Thanks Aurelio when I had been planning on walking the route this year you very graciously helped me with information.

Mike
 
Great Aurelio with the GoPro camera.
Just got mine an hour ago. A friend of mine brought me one from the USA.
I bought it also to use on the the next caminho Portuges in May 2015 among others.
Just finding out how it works
Nice vids. Muito obrigado para compartir.
Um abraço disso lado da Holanda
 
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Arelio,

So many great pictures of the beautiful landscape in Portugal! Almost hard to imagine, based on my foot travels, having so many sunny days! I would note that by September the grapes were amazing!

fwe
 
Oh my!! The videos were inspiring. This is the vision I have in my head, so I am thinking of doing the interior route and since I'm not planning to head out for over a year I know my mind will flip flop many times.

My main questions are the following: Is the interior route safe enough for a female alone? Is the interior route well enough travelled to occasionally see others if you need assistance, but not enough to take away from the solitary journey? This will be my first camino and although I have travelled a bit this will be my first solo big trip I do want to challenge myself, but I don't want to go in over my head.

Thanks for any and all of your feedback!
 
Ms Mackie,

I traveled the route alone (66 yo male) and never felt uncomfortable. Often I was very much alone and didn't have a second thought. I'm certainly not in your shoes, but I believe you'll feel quite comfortable most of the time. There are times when you will be remote. I can't speak to your situation but would not hesitate to do it again alone. I cannot emphasize too much that I mean very alone! I am an introvert, so I handled it OK. However, there were times when I would have liked to have someone to dialogue with!

fwe
 
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FWE, Thank you for the reassurance. I am a 40 something year old woman who camps alone (okay, the 18lb bichon schitzu is usually snoring with me) in the Canadian Rockies for a week on my own whenever I get the chance, so your comments have pretty much settled it for me. That and google mapping the pathway again....I'm already a little in love with the Viseau - Castro Valley scenery. -C
 
Oi o senhor Simoes,
Muito interessanta par ler o texto no Português de você.
Más quem da gente podria entender o texto em geral ?
Para mim está bem . Agora tenho aulas do Português (do Brasil) primeiro nível.
Um abraço deste lado da Holanda
 
Hello

Sorry, but the google has made a machine translation and I did not check.

The original text:

"I do not advise this caminho as the first. It is a very hard caminho, but achievable. I (have 57 years) and my wife (56 years) (suffering from asthma) did the caminho in September 2012 (16 days).
The Caminho Português do Interior is a safe caminho (not to say that it is 100% safe as anywhere in the world). I have not heard of any problems that occurred. The people of northern Portugal are very friendly and welcoming. Always say good morning (bom dia) or good afternoon (boa tarde) to everyone you meet.
The most difficult part, in my opinion, is the first part of the second stage, because we will walk 9 km without seeing anyone, you will go through an abandoned village (Cabrum) with a good source of water, but all very isolated. After the second stage you will find many villages.
The best time, in my opinion, to make the Caminho is the month of September, although in 2014 was the rainiest month, since 35 years.
If you have questions, feel free to ask. I born in Viseu. "
AMSimoes
 
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We have a different meaning. The caminho Portugues is quite moderate. Only the part between Ponte de Lima and Rubiães is a tough part due to some climbing and some off road part.
We walked the camino Ingles last year and this one is much tougher.
The camino Portuges is a good camino for a beginner. No trouble to be expected

I advise anyone to AVOID leaving Porto by the waymarking to Maia and Vilarinho. Take the coastal detour from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde and from there to São Pedro de Rates where you hit the interior route to Barcelos and Ponte de Lima
Avoiding the Vilarinho route because you walk through an area with heavy traffic, dangerous and terrible cobblestones roads
The coastal detour-read about it on this forum or in the Brierley guide -is beautiful and relaxed and well waymarked !
I explored the Vilarinho one and do not understand why people are walking this terrible route.
I walked the detour and I can tell you this is great.
My wife and I walked in May andthis is a great season in Portugal and Galicia. Everything is blooming, fresh green .
Our next caminho Portugues will be in springtime again. No doubting about it.

Bom caminho
 
Last edited by a moderator:
I agree.
Albertinho.
We are talking about different caminhos.
The "Caminho Português do Interior" starts in Viseu, Lamego, Vila Real, Chaves, Verin, Ourense, Santiago.
AMSimoes
 
amsimoes said:
I agree.
Albertinho.
We are talking about different caminhos.
The "Caminho Português do Interior" starts in Viseu, Lamego, Vila Real, Chaves, Verin, Ourense, Santiago.
AMSimoes
Click to expand...
Okay that clears everything.

Is this the camino that comes from Salamanca ?
 
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I"d like to affirm very much what Aurelio has stated. It (Interior) may not be your best "first camino" [take note CMSMackie) because it is difficult. It also does not provide the kind of comradeship that one might expect if he/she is using "The Way" as a standard. I would not expect, if you saw "The Way" that your pack would (Not) be stolen because it seemed extremely safe to me. There are many difficult parts. If I'm thinking correctly the stage he speaks about is to Ribolhos and it is very difficult. Please note, too, that there is no eating place in Ribolhos, nor is there a market. By the grace of God someone had left a bag of noodles in the kitchen. [My faith tells me it was a gift.] The day was very long and very hard. Most days were not like that, but most had significant hills - up and down. I went in September and it was beautiful! Of course it was the rainiest in 35 years!!!!

Oh, and CMSMackie, if you go the Interior, don't miss going to Swing Bar [ http://swingnando.blogspot.pt ] in Chaves, and visit with Freddy. He was born in the USA and married a lady from Chaves. Checking the blogspot will bring up a picture of him and me having a beer together. It was great to have some good ole' English dialogue! The bar is in the market building.

fwe
 
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NOTE: I MEANT TO WRITE THAT YOUR PACK WOULD NOT / I SAY AGAIN "NOT" BE STOLEN!!!!!!
 
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amsimoes said:
Albertinho
No the camino from Salamanca is "Torres Camino". You need GPS.

AMSimoes
Click to expand...
Obrigado pelo contestar O caminho interior de Viseu paresse um caminho muito interessante. Ha um livro com a ruta o uma pagina web com informação ?

Um abraço deste lado
 
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FWE, I gathered that my pack would NOT be stolen and thanks so much for the reassurance. (I'm generally a trusting person) Although I enjoyed the movie for the most part I am not really using 'The Way' as my inspiration. I did watch it after having already decided to do the walk, but my real inspiration and the one that finally encouraged me to commit to doing the walk was "Each Step is the Journey" by Patricia Klinck from Calgary, Alberta, Canada. Her thoughts on the Camino and the spiritual peace it brings while testing one's physical and mental endurance were and are my guiding inspiration. If you have a chance to read it I would encourage you to.

After reading all of the generous advice on here I have committed that since I'm not planning to do this until 2016 I will use the spring/summer/autumn of 2015 to test my physical endurance with some back to back elevated hikes. (It's still the heart of winter here, so I'm keeping close to home as I'm not a skier) I live less than 90 minutes from the rocky mountains (Kananaskis, Banff, Lake Louise - if you're not familiar, but want to google) so elevation trials are on my doorstep. It is nothing for us Canucks (Canadians) to do a quick drive out, a good hike for the day and then return that same day. After that I will make sure that I once again revisit my multitude of options based on my physical state.

Please keep the advice coming.....as well as the notes on where to stop and who to say hello to when I do stop!!

CMS
 

It's hard to advise someone who has it together - especially a Canuck! (We say the toothbrush was invented in Kentucky - otherwise it would be a teethbrush....). Actually I didn't prepare for a lot of up and down stuff. I did take seriously walking with a pack, but didn't worry about up and down so much and I was fine - around 20 years your senior.... I averaged about 4 miles a day (for about 4 weeks) getting used to the pack again. I had been walking a fair amount for a time. My bet is that you may be too worried about the prep. Unless you are really driven... and I'm fairly strong "A" type.... you'll not have any trouble making the suggested legs (assuming that you use the information provided by the likes of Aurelio and the folks who promote the Interior). If you were to decide on the coastal route, you have a lot less climbing and you would be in great shape. My bet is you could go in a month and be fine!
But, like I said, I'm not going to try to suggest a prep time for train up - that's a personal call. Some need the time more for the mental part not the physical part. I'm just living proof that "just doing it" is possible.
 
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Thanks for the vote of confidence. Not a type A, but darned determined sometimes. The prep time is needed for physical, mental and financial. .
 
CMSMackie said:
Thanks for the vote of confidence. Not a type A, but darned determined sometimes. The prep time is needed for physical, mental and financial. .
Click to expand...


Hello CMSMackie

I have provided various information and advice on the Portuguese Caminho of the Interior.
Search this forum (ex: "Portuguese Caminho Lamego") or send me an email to amsimoes@gmail.com

You can also visit the website: http://www.cpisantiago.pt/

If you enter in Portugal at Lisbon airport, we can meet us. I work in central Lisbon next to the Praça do Comércio.

AMSimoes
 
Hello.
Yesterday I was talking to a person responsible for the Interior Portuguese Caminho (Viseu - Santiago), who informed me that have been made new marks (arrows) in the municipality of Lamego, to prevent the signaling errors reported by many pilgrims.
He also drew my attention to the arrows in the city Régua because the markings of the Caminho Torrres (Lamego to Régua are the same). You must be careful not to follow the path to the town of Amarante in the direction of Ponte de Lima, but go to Santa Marta de Penaguião. Can ask the way in Tourist Office of the Régua , near the train station, after crossing the river Douro.
AMSimoes
 
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Hi Aurelio, is the website (cpisantiago) ‘down’ at the moment. I can’t seem to access it.

I am looking for detailed information on the stages and accommodation options ip to Verin.
Also, do you know if it is possible to start from Coimbra yet? Is the Coimbra-Viseu section marked?
Many thanks for all your helpful information so far. It is much appreciated in planning.
Cheers, Grace
 


Hi Grace
I've asked theresponsible for the website if there are any problem.
Soon I will make a translation of the caminho made by a Brazilian pilgrim.
Inform you that the road still is NOT marked the city of Coimbra to the city of Viseu, but it is possible to do the caminho, if you start in Mealhada in the direction of Mortágua (by EN), Santa Comba Dao (here take the Ecotrail river Dan), Tondela e Viseu. Is not the original caminho, but by Penacova (Lorvão convent?), Santa Comba Dão, Tondela, São Miguel de Outeiro, Vil de Moinhos e Viseu.
The first albergue is in Farminhão near the Ecotrail.
You can sleep in Mealhada, Mortágua, Santa Comba Dao, Tondela and Viseu.
In Verin exists albergue.
Soon I will have news.
When you intend to start the way?

AMSimoes
 
amsimoes said:
Hi Grace
I've asked theresponsible for the website if there are any problem.
Soon I will make a translation of the caminho made by a Brazilian pilgrim.
...When you intend to start the way?
AMSimoes
Click to expand...

Wow - thanks so much for the quick reply, AMSimoes,
I am thinking of starting in late September or early October. Do you think (based on normal year weather) that it will be a good time?
Last year I was in Northern Portugal (Braganca area) in early October and it was brilliant weather.
I have looked on GoogleMaps for the villages you recommended. Can you tell me, what is (EN)? - a highway?

I like to go on caminos alone (always meeting people on the way) but this one seems quite solitary. My concern is getting lost.
Is the waymarking good enough?

Cheers again, Grace
 
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Hi Grace

The website (cpisantiago) is already active and new image.

AMSimões
 
amsimoes said:
Hi Grace

The website (cpisantiago) is already active and new image.

AMSimões
Click to expand...


Thanks so much for this information, this caminho is on my list and all of this information is great. So good to see you, and thanks for getting the stamp for the credentials for our little group yesterday. Now I know where the Santiago Church in Lisbon is -- about time!!!!!
 
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EN should identify national roads, most of the time identify with and N and some numbers (N1, N13, N222). These are the most common roads linking cities and towns.
IC, IP and A roads are highways.
M and R roads will be smaller municipal roads, sometimes single lane.

The waymarking is said to be good, so there should be no problems. There are more kms in isolated areas and in the hills. If you are concerned, I suggest taking a smartphone if you have it) with a GPS app and the track in there.
 
Edmund, you suggested a smartphone - I’ll take my iphone and get a SIM for Portugal on arrival (using wifi where I can). Do you have any suggestions for mobile providers in Portugal. Also what GPS app would you recommend for a techno-gumby?? Just enough so I can see where I am and not get too lost. I don’t need to mark my actual route. Many thanks, Grace
 
MEO or Vodafone. Meo should have the best coverage but pre-paid sim prices are pretty much the same. Explain what you want it for and they give a plan that suits your needs.
They both offer mobile internet packages you can get from 6€ per month for 200mb. I mention this because it might be likely that you'll find less places with wifi on the interior route than the other ones.

I personally use oruxmaps for tracking and navigation. Despite being free it has all the bells and withles. Probably overkill for you. I would recommend getting something with downloadable tracks and maps.
Tracking your progress may not be important but having the camino track lets see if you are on the right path. You don't need maps for this, but they are handy to aid you in recognizing the environment and finding alternatives.
Wikiloc is a simpler app that comes from a huge database of outdoor tracks. You can get the track for the camino onto the phone app and follow it. I believe it has off-line maps.
 
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Hi again all! Life changes have happened and I'm considering the possibility of moving my camino for 2016 from September to April/May starting in Viseu. Any advice?
 
Hello
I will be walking from Porto to Santiago is June by myself. I think I will take your advice and take the coastal detour from Matosinhos to Sao Pedro de Rates. I am wondering if this is a longer route as I only have 11 days to walk to Santiago. Also, wondering about accommodations along this route--needing to make reservations?
Thank you so much for any info
 
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Even with the detours it is perfectly manageable with your time frame.

Vila do Conde has an albergue, but between Porto and VdC I think there are none, so you'd need to make a reservation somewhere midway, I believe others (Albertinho?) could make recommendations.
 
Thank you
Do you know how to take metro from Porto airport to Matosinhos and which stop I would take for pension on Rua Brito Capelo?
 
You take the metro and exit at "Senhora da Hora", change to the blue line going to "Senhor de Matosinhos". Depending where on Rua Brito Capelo the pension is, you can exit either in "Matosinhos Sul", "Brito Capelo" or "Mercado".

Check this map:
https://www.google.pt/maps/place/Ru...c1138df00b3d5668!8m2!3d41.1803103!4d-8.689574
Search the addres of the pension you book and then exit at the nearest station, they are named and are signalled with an M.


However... Please don't go direct from the airport to the Caminho... Check out Porto city center a little, enjoy a bit of the city. Drink a Portonic on a sunny esplanade in Ribeira.
 
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Hi all, I am making final plans for my up coming walk...if training goes well I will be leaving Regua along the CP Interior on June 5 th...after 4 days sightseeing in Porto...checking out all your wonderful videos & useful info...it looks like there is a small Pension in Regua, any advice on specific accom along the ways would be great, I have printed the latest walking guide & will have my basic smart phone for back up directions ( hope to mostly stay in Albergues with an odd private cheap room if need)...
Oh & how good do my Portuguese language skills need to be?
Many thanks for any tips & favourite pit stops..
 
bimblingalong said:
Oh & how good do my Portuguese language skills need to be?
Click to expand...

The percentage of Portuguese people speaking English is very high, but I am sure they appreciate if you just learn some basic phrases like, hello, thank you and so on. Bon Camiño, SY
 


This is the central way (Caminho Central: Lisboa-Coimbra-Porto-Santiago)), is not the way interior (Caminho Interior: Viseu to Santiago).
 
Let us pick up your suitcase once you arrive in Europe....
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Yay!!! Flights booked. I will arrive in Lisbon on September 2nd and hope to begin from Viseu on the 3rd or 4th.

My husband will meet me in SDC on September 25th.

Now that 5 years of thinking is real.....I cannot wait to get going.
 
CMSMackie, I wish you a Bon Caminho. I'm two years out from my interior journey. It was tough! Having done Frances' 5 years before, I compared it by saying it was half as far and twice as hard! It is very rewarding, but the hills and valleys are definitely challenging. The people are so very friendly. Some of the markings out of the towns (cities) are difficult, so pay attention to the road numbers and don't be afraid to use them. I'll wait patiently for your reports and completion!
 
FWE! Thank you so much for your good wishes. GracethePilgrim walked the route last year about the same time that I'll be doing my journey and she sent me fantastic notes.

I have also built in a couple of days grace so that I can rest up when I need to.

My biggest concern at the moment is food. I need to eat regularly to keep my blood sugar in check, so I'm hoping that I can figure out road food sufficiently. Did you find that you were able to easily find packable food along the way to prepare you for the next day's journey?
 
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...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).



Hi CMS
In principle you will not have problems with feeding. If you have problems ask people for "Mercearia", "Café/Bar", "Supermercado".

The most complicated site will be in Albergue of Ribolhos (without services), but after + -6 km (on the caminho) there exists a hotel with restaurant and bar. You have to buy food in Mões village, for the dinner and other food, where there are all the services.

AMSimoes
 


Hi there! I leave for Lisbon on September 1st. Just curious about how your journey went. C
 
SYates said:
The percentage of Portuguese people speaking English is very high, but I am sure they appreciate if you just learn some basic phrases like, hello, thank you and so on. Bon Camiño, SY
Click to expand...
Hi SY (Sue?). I have started to put together a list of common phrases. I realized there must be many terms specific to pilgrimage and e.g., church services that I cannot look up if I am not aware of them. Has anyone put together a list of those terms that you know of?
 
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You're confusing the Caminho Interior (CPI) which begins in Viseu, with the Caminho Central that begins in Lisbon.
 
This is now 2017 and I'm looking for more recent trips along the CPI. I have the terrific set of notes by Grace the Pilgrim, and just want to know if there is any more information, and whether albergues are full. I fly into Lisbon from San Francisco on Aug 24th, will walk first to Santarem then visit Fatima, bus to Coimbra before getting to Viseu, probably Aug 28th. Anyone going?
 
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Please let us know how the markings are around the cities. Since it is quite demanding, I wonder how long you plan to walk? Bon Camiho!

I've pretty much decided to pilgrim from Porto to Santiago next spring. Hopefully it won't be as demanding as the interior!
 
I am starting in Lisbon, Aug 25 with a couple of flat days to warm up and then starting in Viseu on Aug 29 to Sept 13 or 14. How long did it take you?
 
karidadpoethig said:
I am starting in Lisbon, Aug 25 with a couple of flat days to warm up and then starting in Viseu on Aug 29 to Sept 13 or 14. How long did it take you?
Click to expand...

It took me about 18 days. I didn't break any speed records and the terrain is difficult - certainly not impossible but difficult. I stayed an extra day in Regua. I started about the same time in 2014 (early September) and enjoyed the scenery a whole bunch. Watch for the grapes hanging from the vines and the pumpkins on the ground. The flowering plants were everywhere. I had several days of rain and the pathway was often muddy. I resorted to walking along the highway a couple of times. Often I was the only person in the albergue, especially in the early part of the journey. When you marry up with la Plata, there will be some pilgrims. I sometimes went more than 1 day without seeing another pilgrim. Oh, and I didn't worry too much about having my compostela stamped (except at the albergue). No one troubled me for not having a multitude of stamps.
One last thing: At the main market place in Chavez there was a bar owned by a fellow from Connecticut - "Swing Bar" . Freddy is the owner. He was a welcome conversationalist after not having anyone to talk to for days! It's really just a small place toward the front of the marketplace.
 
Camino Way markers in Bronze
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.


Thank you! I've got more training to do, up and down as much as possible. I read a blog from the recommended website too. Since there isn't your friendly book, trying to find all I can. I don't speak either Portuguese or Spanish.
 
KaridadP said:
Thank you! I've got more training to do, up and down as much as possible. I read a blog from the recommended website too. Since there isn't your friendly book, trying to find all I can. I don't speak either Portuguese or Spanish.
Click to expand...

I did some "training" in Portuguese before I left but I was far from conversant. I'm not sure that it is ncecssary. I do have a little Spanish to lean on, but I found that the Portuguese were more than able / willing to help me out. "They" are a very friendly group in my experience and seem to like Americans. I really wouldn't worry too much about the language, but I would concentrate on the train up - although I don't think over training is good. Try not to be tired to start. I found my 2nd day (to Robelos, sp?) to be a long, taxing day with no villages / water to speak of. As I have said, it's not easy, but doable.
 

Yes, it's the challenge that I want to take on, kinda like I have to do it. Can I ask, did you have a EU sim card? I read another post where the person got lost a few days in a row and had to follow N2. He said there was no one around at all, so he had to figure it out by himself. That's a challenge and I see now that there are a variety of numbers available.
 
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Kinda short reply: I didn't have a sim card (no working cell phone). I did carry my android and a cheap tablet to work from wifi. I used my instincts a few times (I have some experience with that since I'm retired Army) and you are very smart to note that the route parallels 2 major roads (which I don't have before me now... one is N2 for sure). I'll get back with a few more reflections, today is just full of stuff.....you'll do fine remembering the road thing.
 
I'm not at all familiar with this route but have used the app: maps.me both on Camino and just traveling in foreign countries and it's quite brilliant at showing your position and surrounding roads/paths/tracks and works offline. Just have to go to the app's settings and upload that country's (or city if it's a major one) maps while you are still online. I found it does use a lot of battery so in your phone's settings, set it to not work in the background, to only work while using.
 
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