irishmancamino
New Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Summer 2013
Hello everyone,
Just wanted to share my thoughts and experiences having just completed walking the Camino Ingles yesterday.
I arrived into Ferrol on 16th June, left walking the following morning of the 17th and arrived into Santiago yesterday, June 21st.
I previously walked the Camino Frances (and Finisterre) in 2013, the Camino Portuguese in 2014 (and Muxia), so I've had a lot of experience behind me for the Ingles.
I used the invaluable Johnnie Walker CSJ Camino Ingles guide to guide me through the walk.
I will give a general breakdown of the five days, then I'll give my own impressions of the towns and highlights/lowlights/recommendations of the Ingles at the end.
Day One - Ferrol to Pontedeume
This was a long first day. Left Ferrol early in the morning knowing this. Went to look for the starting point the previous evening, down by the port. The construction site is still in operation, you'll have to look for the starting waymark outside a row of cafes.
Walker's guide is very clear on leading you out of Ferrol, yet it's important to stay alert yourself as there are several 'new' construction site areas that can confuse.
Nice leisurely walk through Naron, Neda, Fene.
I began to get a jaded as I was approaching Pontedueme, mainly due to an ongoing ascent and descent into the town. This tiredness was mainly due to the heat, as it turned out Galicia was beginning to get a heatwave.
Eventually arrived into Pontedueme, crossing the lovely bridge into the town.
Day Two - Pontedeume to Betanzos
Shorter in length than Day One, this, however, was a more challenging walk due to the many ascents and descents that you have to face.
Very sharp ascent out of Pontedeume (so stock up on a good breakfast before departing), you need to prepare yourself for many ups and downs on this particular walk to Betanzos, reward yourself with many breaks and stock up on water and energy foods.
While it is a challenging walk, you are rewarded with stunning views of Northern Galicia, a typical characteristic of the Ingles.
The heat was still a major factor on Day Two.
Day Three - Betanzos to Meson do Vento (2km from Hospital de Bruma)
Goodness me, this was a hard day! It's right up there with some of the most difficult days of walking that I've had from my extensive Camino experiences of these last 3 years.
Another sharp ascent out of Betanzos, I found the walk fine after this up to Bar Julia and then the fun began!
I had a lovely bite to eat at the new Museu Xente no Camino just outside Presedo, a beautiful stop to recharge the batteries (you'll need to). Owners are very friendly and hospitable.
I had read that the ascent after Bar Julia was tough but having such experiences walking different Caminos, I didn't worry too much about it. It was extremely tough going, not just the ascent but I was fighting against extreme heat at the same time. I thought I'd never reach the end of it! I found that last stretch, after this main ascent, very, very long.
I took a break and rest at the nice albergue in Hospital de Bruma, drinking 3 more bottles of water.
I had previously booked the Pension O Meson Novo and I was one happy pilgrim when I checked in there, having been given very clear directions how to get there by the very nice people at the albergue.
The owners at this Pension are so nice and welcoming and will make sure you're very comfortable.
Day Four - Meson do Vento to Sigueiro
I welcomed this more straightforward walk to Sigueiro.
Be it noted that you're off the Camino route in Meson do Vento, so I backtracked a little bit to walk from the Albergue in Bruma.
Lovely, lovely views of Galicia on this walk but psyche yourself up for what seemed to be a never ending straight road into Sigueiro (it felt a lot longer than the specified 4km in Johnnie's guide!).
Again, the extreme heat was a factor here. It was 32 degrees by the time I checked into my accommodation and that was lunch time!
Day Five - Siguerio to Santiago de Compostela
This was a nice, leisurely walk (and the shortest walk out of the five days) with no real problems with the terrain.
Knowing that I was returning to Santiago for the third time in as many years was a major driving factor for my enthusiasm however!
I found the directions into Santiago very clear in the guide (although I'm very familiar with the city by now). I arrived early in the morning because I didn't want to suffer in the heat again. Wonderful, wonderful feeling seeing the great cathedral again and noticing the changes in the progression of the works on the outside of the building (in comparison to exactly a year ago).
I took time out to just sit in the big court and watch the happy pilgrims all come to their respective journey's end.
Towns
Ferrol -
Ferrol has its own charm but parts of the town are quite run down and it will be nice to see all the construction works come to an end. Nice walk out of the town.
Pontedeume -
A small, compact town. Nice views of it as you cross the bridge. Not a huge amount to see and do however. The church is a pleasant building and the people were very friendly.
Betanzos -
By far my favourite town, with lots of interesting buildings and places of interest. Charming town centre. Churches very nice. Lovely park.
Meson do Vento -
Really only a small village, although it has a supermarket, pharmacy and a few cafes and ATM spots. Not much to see and do here but after this day's walk, you might be glad of the rest!
Sigueiro -
I thought a town that close to Santiago would have a lot more to offer but the town really didn't appeal to me at all.
Highlights
- The views of Galicia are so, so beautiful and the beauty of the region tries its best to inspire you during a very challenging walk at times
- I only encountered 4 pilgrims for the entire 5 days, so the Ingles seems to be a road less travelled which can be nice for those seeking a more reflective experience
- Betanzos is a very nice town to soak up and enjoy
- Once again, I found the locals very warm and friendly
- Arriving into Santiago and seeing the cathedral once again
Lowlights
- Those many ascents and descents are very challenging (even to those with previous Camino experiences) but then again, no pain, no gain!
- The heat was very extreme at times, ranging from 29-35 degrees with little wind to cool you down
- The lack of pilgrims can also be quite isolating for some
Recommendations
The Camino Ingles is a short but very challenging route. I don't think it's for the novice Camino pilgrim. My previous experiences held me in good stead on this walk.
If I were to do it again, I would break the days up a bit more, looking at Days One and Three in particular.
Johnnie Walker's guide is ESSENTIAL! Thank you Johnnie for all the hard work on this detailed guide.
Should anyone have any questions or queries on this walk, don't hesitate to ask.
Regards to everyone and Buen Camino!
Just wanted to share my thoughts and experiences having just completed walking the Camino Ingles yesterday.
I arrived into Ferrol on 16th June, left walking the following morning of the 17th and arrived into Santiago yesterday, June 21st.
I previously walked the Camino Frances (and Finisterre) in 2013, the Camino Portuguese in 2014 (and Muxia), so I've had a lot of experience behind me for the Ingles.
I used the invaluable Johnnie Walker CSJ Camino Ingles guide to guide me through the walk.
I will give a general breakdown of the five days, then I'll give my own impressions of the towns and highlights/lowlights/recommendations of the Ingles at the end.
Day One - Ferrol to Pontedeume
This was a long first day. Left Ferrol early in the morning knowing this. Went to look for the starting point the previous evening, down by the port. The construction site is still in operation, you'll have to look for the starting waymark outside a row of cafes.
Walker's guide is very clear on leading you out of Ferrol, yet it's important to stay alert yourself as there are several 'new' construction site areas that can confuse.
Nice leisurely walk through Naron, Neda, Fene.
I began to get a jaded as I was approaching Pontedueme, mainly due to an ongoing ascent and descent into the town. This tiredness was mainly due to the heat, as it turned out Galicia was beginning to get a heatwave.
Eventually arrived into Pontedueme, crossing the lovely bridge into the town.
Day Two - Pontedeume to Betanzos
Shorter in length than Day One, this, however, was a more challenging walk due to the many ascents and descents that you have to face.
Very sharp ascent out of Pontedeume (so stock up on a good breakfast before departing), you need to prepare yourself for many ups and downs on this particular walk to Betanzos, reward yourself with many breaks and stock up on water and energy foods.
While it is a challenging walk, you are rewarded with stunning views of Northern Galicia, a typical characteristic of the Ingles.
The heat was still a major factor on Day Two.
Day Three - Betanzos to Meson do Vento (2km from Hospital de Bruma)
Goodness me, this was a hard day! It's right up there with some of the most difficult days of walking that I've had from my extensive Camino experiences of these last 3 years.
Another sharp ascent out of Betanzos, I found the walk fine after this up to Bar Julia and then the fun began!
I had a lovely bite to eat at the new Museu Xente no Camino just outside Presedo, a beautiful stop to recharge the batteries (you'll need to). Owners are very friendly and hospitable.
I had read that the ascent after Bar Julia was tough but having such experiences walking different Caminos, I didn't worry too much about it. It was extremely tough going, not just the ascent but I was fighting against extreme heat at the same time. I thought I'd never reach the end of it! I found that last stretch, after this main ascent, very, very long.
I took a break and rest at the nice albergue in Hospital de Bruma, drinking 3 more bottles of water.
I had previously booked the Pension O Meson Novo and I was one happy pilgrim when I checked in there, having been given very clear directions how to get there by the very nice people at the albergue.
The owners at this Pension are so nice and welcoming and will make sure you're very comfortable.
Day Four - Meson do Vento to Sigueiro
I welcomed this more straightforward walk to Sigueiro.
Be it noted that you're off the Camino route in Meson do Vento, so I backtracked a little bit to walk from the Albergue in Bruma.
Lovely, lovely views of Galicia on this walk but psyche yourself up for what seemed to be a never ending straight road into Sigueiro (it felt a lot longer than the specified 4km in Johnnie's guide!).
Again, the extreme heat was a factor here. It was 32 degrees by the time I checked into my accommodation and that was lunch time!
Day Five - Siguerio to Santiago de Compostela
This was a nice, leisurely walk (and the shortest walk out of the five days) with no real problems with the terrain.
Knowing that I was returning to Santiago for the third time in as many years was a major driving factor for my enthusiasm however!
I found the directions into Santiago very clear in the guide (although I'm very familiar with the city by now). I arrived early in the morning because I didn't want to suffer in the heat again. Wonderful, wonderful feeling seeing the great cathedral again and noticing the changes in the progression of the works on the outside of the building (in comparison to exactly a year ago).
I took time out to just sit in the big court and watch the happy pilgrims all come to their respective journey's end.
Towns
Ferrol -
Ferrol has its own charm but parts of the town are quite run down and it will be nice to see all the construction works come to an end. Nice walk out of the town.
Pontedeume -
A small, compact town. Nice views of it as you cross the bridge. Not a huge amount to see and do however. The church is a pleasant building and the people were very friendly.
Betanzos -
By far my favourite town, with lots of interesting buildings and places of interest. Charming town centre. Churches very nice. Lovely park.
Meson do Vento -
Really only a small village, although it has a supermarket, pharmacy and a few cafes and ATM spots. Not much to see and do here but after this day's walk, you might be glad of the rest!
Sigueiro -
I thought a town that close to Santiago would have a lot more to offer but the town really didn't appeal to me at all.
Highlights
- The views of Galicia are so, so beautiful and the beauty of the region tries its best to inspire you during a very challenging walk at times
- I only encountered 4 pilgrims for the entire 5 days, so the Ingles seems to be a road less travelled which can be nice for those seeking a more reflective experience
- Betanzos is a very nice town to soak up and enjoy
- Once again, I found the locals very warm and friendly
- Arriving into Santiago and seeing the cathedral once again
Lowlights
- Those many ascents and descents are very challenging (even to those with previous Camino experiences) but then again, no pain, no gain!
- The heat was very extreme at times, ranging from 29-35 degrees with little wind to cool you down
- The lack of pilgrims can also be quite isolating for some
Recommendations
The Camino Ingles is a short but very challenging route. I don't think it's for the novice Camino pilgrim. My previous experiences held me in good stead on this walk.
If I were to do it again, I would break the days up a bit more, looking at Days One and Three in particular.
Johnnie Walker's guide is ESSENTIAL! Thank you Johnnie for all the hard work on this detailed guide.
Should anyone have any questions or queries on this walk, don't hesitate to ask.
Regards to everyone and Buen Camino!