Camino Ingles - Thoughts

[Marcus-UK]

I completed my first Camino in Mid September. I left it a few weeks before I decided to share my thoughts on this Camino.
Unfortunately I chose the worst week to start my first Camino. There was torrential rain on most days and this made 3 days of the walk fairly miserable. I thought myself reasonably fit for someone in their sixth decade and unfortunately I was lying to myself! Being overweight and unfit was also a negative. The rain stopped halfway through the fourth day making the last day and a half the most enjoyable walking.
The saving grace of this Camino were the actual people of Galicia. I have rarely met a more friendly group of people. Special mention must be made to Antonio Father and Son who run the Meson Do Vento and picked me up from the Bruma section of the Camino and dropped me back there before sunrise the next day and refused any payment! Also the people who pointed me in the right direction when the way was not clear in mainly towns especially Fene where I took a wrong turn and got totally lost!
I followed the suggested five stages in the CSF guide starting in Ferrol. My observation about the first day is that the 29 KM Ferrol to Pontedeume section is too long for anyone is unfit. Stopping In Neda would be a better option for a first day. Alternatively taking the optional 24KM option via the railway bridge. In a similar way the climb towards Bruma at the end of a long wet day is not ideal. I would suggest either having a late start in Betanzos and sight see! Then a short day from Betanzos to the Albergue in Presedo (12KM) and a good meal at the Meson Museo . The next day could then be to Buscas making it around 25KM.
Along the way I met and kept meeting two nice Spanish girls Ysabet and Anna, A couple of Friendly Spanish youths, a group of four ladies from England and a large number of Polish Pilgrims. This camino was probably too short to form the "families" you find on the Frances. But everyone was friendly and I met up with Ysabett and Anna in the Queue for certificates in Santiago.
Having retired this year I was considering doing a number of Caminos over the next few years. I liked the idea of the Primitivo but know I am not fit enough. So next year I think I will try the Camino Portuguese from Oporto.

 

[KinkyOne]

I completed my first Camino in Mid September. I left it a few weeks before I decided to share my thoughts on this Camino.
Unfortunately I chose the worst week to start my first Camino. There was torrential rain on most days and this made 3 days of the walk fairly miserable. I thought myself reasonably fit for someone in their sixth decade and unfortunately I was lying to myself! Being overweight and unfit was also a negative. The rain stopped halfway through the fourth day making the last day and a half the most enjoyable walking.
The saving grace of this Camino were the actual people of Galicia. I have rarely met a more friendly group of people. Special mention must be made to Antonio Father and Son who run the Meson Do Vento and picked me up from the Bruma section of the Camino and dropped me back there before sunrise the next day and refused any payment! Also the people who pointed me in the right direction when the way was not clear in mainly towns especially Fene where I took a wrong turn and got totally lost!
I followed the suggested five stages in the CSF guide starting in Ferrol. My observation about the first day is that the 29 KM Ferrol to Pontedeume section is too long for anyone is unfit. Stopping In Neda would be a better option for a first day. Alternatively taking the optional 24KM option via the railway bridge. In a similar way the climb towards Bruma at the end of a long wet day is not ideal. I would suggest either having a late start in Betanzos and sight see! Then a short day from Betanzos to the Albergue in Presedo (12KM) and a good meal at the Meson Museo . The next day could then be to Buscas making it around 25KM.
Along the way I met and kept meeting two nice Spanish girls Ysabet and Anna, A couple of Friendly Spanish youths, a group of four ladies from England and a large number of Polish Pilgrims. This camino was probably too short to form the "families" you find on the Frances. But everyone was friendly and I met up with Ysabett and Anna in the Queue for certificates in Santiago.
Having retired this year I was considering doing a number of Caminos over the next few years. I liked the idea of the Primitivo but know I am not fit enough. So next year I think I will try the Camino Portuguese from Oporto.

Congratulations for your first Camino!
One suggestion regarding Primitivo and being unfit. Maybe start in Madrid on Camino de Madrid where there is just one hard stage (over the Guadarrama Ridge) from Cercedilla to Segovia and the rest is fairly flat.
Continue from Sahagun (where Madrid joins Frances) to Leon on really very flat. Then in Leon turn north to Oviedo on Camino de San Salvador which is a bit tougher but short stages are possible. By the time you'll get to Oviedo I'm sure you would be fit enough to walk Camino Primitivo.
It's a nice combo many pilgrims even on this forum did.

Ultreia!

 

[OzAnnie]

I completed my first Camino in Mid September. I left it a few weeks before I decided to share my thoughts on this Camino.
Unfortunately I chose the worst week to start my first Camino. There was torrential rain on most days and this made 3 days of the walk fairly miserable. I thought myself reasonably fit for someone in their sixth decade and unfortunately I was lying to myself! Being overweight and unfit was also a negative. The rain stopped halfway through the fourth day making the last day and a half the most enjoyable walking.
The saving grace of this Camino were the actual people of Galicia. I have rarely met a more friendly group of people. Special mention must be made to Antonio Father and Son who run the Meson Do Vento and picked me up from the Bruma section of the Camino and dropped me back there before sunrise the next day and refused any payment! Also the people who pointed me in the right direction when the way was not clear in mainly towns especially Fene where I took a wrong turn and got totally lost!
I followed the suggested five stages in the CSF guide starting in Ferrol. My observation about the first day is that the 29 KM Ferrol to Pontedeume section is too long for anyone is unfit. Stopping In Neda would be a better option for a first day. Alternatively taking the optional 24KM option via the railway bridge. In a similar way the climb towards Bruma at the end of a long wet day is not ideal. I would suggest either having a late start in Betanzos and sight see! Then a short day from Betanzos to the Albergue in Presedo (12KM) and a good meal at the Meson Museo . The next day could then be to Buscas making it around 25KM.
Along the way I met and kept meeting two nice Spanish girls Ysabet and Anna, A couple of Friendly Spanish youths, a group of four ladies from England and a large number of Polish Pilgrims. This camino was probably too short to form the "families" you find on the Frances. But everyone was friendly and I met up with Ysabett and Anna in the Queue for certificates in Santiago.
Having retired this year I was considering doing a number of Caminos over the next few years. I liked the idea of the Primitivo but know I am not fit enough. So next year I think I will try the Camino Portuguese from Oporto.

Hi Marcus
Very good comments and advice .
I retired this July too and although I felt relatively fit, the packweight and continual walking over a month takes its toll. Great advice to allow shorter days and make it over more days.
Thankyou for sharing.
Annie

 

[Arn]

Marcus, I to stayed at the Meson...though I was picked up and returned to the Bar Julia to continue the CI. It rained the entire time. There was a long stretch along a logging road that was knee deep in mud. Each night at the Meson there was a regional football match on the TV. That was good. I obviously rooted for the wrong side by the glares, and a few choice words, I received. All in all...a fantastic time.
Arn

 

[mylifeonvacation]

I agree, the people of Galicia were also a huge highlight for me on two short caminos (Ingles and Portuguese). Lovely to hear your feedback and glad it was ultimately a buen camino for you, despite the challenges.

 

[Walli Walker]

Hi Marcus, the Portuguese from Oporto is not as taxing as the Ingles. Take your time and enjoy.

 

[joeboybollo]

I completed my first Camino in Mid September. I left it a few weeks before I decided to share my thoughts on this Camino.
Unfortunately I chose the worst week to start my first Camino. There was torrential rain on most days and this made 3 days of the walk fairly miserable. I thought myself reasonably fit for someone in their sixth decade and unfortunately I was lying to myself! Being overweight and unfit was also a negative. The rain stopped halfway through the fourth day making the last day and a half the most enjoyable walking.
The saving grace of this Camino were the actual people of Galicia. I have rarely met a more friendly group of people. Special mention must be made to Antonio Father and Son who run the Meson Do Vento and picked me up from the Bruma section of the Camino and dropped me back there before sunrise the next day and refused any payment! Also the people who pointed me in the right direction when the way was not clear in mainly towns especially Fene where I took a wrong turn and got totally lost!
I followed the suggested five stages in the CSF guide starting in Ferrol. My observation about the first day is that the 29 KM Ferrol to Pontedeume section is too long for anyone is unfit. Stopping In Neda would be a better option for a first day. Alternatively taking the optional 24KM option via the railway bridge. In a similar way the climb towards Bruma at the end of a long wet day is not ideal. I would suggest either having a late start in Betanzos and sight see! Then a short day from Betanzos to the Albergue in Presedo (12KM) and a good meal at the Meson Museo . The next day could then be to Buscas making it around 25KM.
Along the way I met and kept meeting two nice Spanish girls Ysabet and Anna, A couple of Friendly Spanish youths, a group of four ladies from England and a large number of Polish Pilgrims. This camino was probably too short to form the "families" you find on the Frances. But everyone was friendly and I met up with Ysabett and Anna in the Queue for certificates in Santiago.
Having retired this year I was considering doing a number of Caminos over the next few years. I liked the idea of the Primitivo but know I am not fit enough. So next year I think I will try the Camino Portuguese from Oporto.

Hi,Marcus,
shame about the weather but we had exactly the same experience last year but it was still great!
I agree with all your observations (as another old git at 72) but age is definitely only a number to be overcome.After doing Sarria 2 years ago,my wife and I next did the Ingles last year, but over 7 days,easy peasey. Can't go this year as wife needs an operation but hoping to do coastal Portuguese next September. Slowly building up to hopefully doing the Frances in 2018,or at least a big chunk of it if we are both keeping well. I think that as we get older it is important(health allowing) to have goals to motivate us and to look forward to. So good luck to you and all the other,older,voyagers.
Joe

 

[Tia Valeria]

We just take twice as many days as others (on average). So - from Ferrol to Santiago took 8 walking days plus a day to see Betanzos. On the Primitivo we took 3 weeks from Tineo to Santiago including an extra day in Grandas de Salime (museum) and also 2 days in Lugo. All the shortest stages that we wanted and only long ones where dictated by the accommodation available. Shortest day 6kms from Grandas to Castro for the museum at the latter; longest day 24kms into Lugo -and nearly 2kms of that was walking round to our hotel. Anything is possible.....

 

[Nonnieto9]

I completed my first Camino in Mid September. I left it a few weeks before I decided to share my thoughts on this Camino.
Unfortunately I chose the worst week to start my first Camino. There was torrential rain on most days and this made 3 days of the walk fairly miserable. I thought myself reasonably fit for someone in their sixth decade and unfortunately I was lying to myself! Being overweight and unfit was also a negative. The rain stopped halfway through the fourth day making the last day and a half the most enjoyable walking.
The saving grace of this Camino were the actual people of Galicia. I have rarely met a more friendly group of people. Special mention must be made to Antonio Father and Son who run the Meson Do Vento and picked me up from the Bruma section of the Camino and dropped me back there before sunrise the next day and refused any payment! Also the people who pointed me in the right direction when the way was not clear in mainly towns especially Fene where I took a wrong turn and got totally lost!
I followed the suggested five stages in the CSF guide starting in Ferrol. My observation about the first day is that the 29 KM Ferrol to Pontedeume section is too long for anyone is unfit. Stopping In Neda would be a better option for a first day. Alternatively taking the optional 24KM option via the railway bridge. In a similar way the climb towards Bruma at the end of a long wet day is not ideal. I would suggest either having a late start in Betanzos and sight see! Then a short day from Betanzos to the Albergue in Presedo (12KM) and a good meal at the Meson Museo . The next day could then be to Buscas making it around 25KM.
Along the way I met and kept meeting two nice Spanish girls Ysabet and Anna, A couple of Friendly Spanish youths, a group of four ladies from England and a large number of Polish Pilgrims. This camino was probably too short to form the "families" you find on the Frances. But everyone was friendly and I met up with Ysabett and Anna in the Queue for certificates in Santiago.
Having retired this year I was considering doing a number of Caminos over the next few years. I liked the idea of the Primitivo but know I am not fit enough. So next year I think I will try the Camino Portuguese from Oporto.

We started in SJPDP and when we got to Sarria we switched to the Ingles. We loved getting away from the crowds that thickened the closer we got to Sarria. The solitude was lovely and I'll never forget walking through the eucalyptus woods. You are correct, the path markings are fewer in number. We are in our late 60s, overweight and although we were much more fit by the time we hit Ferrol, we had discovered the joy of a slower pace...we took 7 rather than 5 days to reach Santiago...I'm so glad we did! Kudos for persevering AND for planning your next....proving your mettle!

 

[Susan B Johnson]

I completed my first Camino in Mid September. I left it a few weeks before I decided to share my thoughts on this Camino.
Unfortunately I chose the worst week to start my first Camino. There was torrential rain on most days and this made 3 days of the walk fairly miserable.

May I ask which month you did the Camino Ingles?

 

[marigold]

I completed my first Camino in Mid September. I left it a few weeks before I decided to share my thoughts on this Camino.
Unfortunately I chose the worst week to start my first Camino. There was torrential rain on most days and this made 3 days of the walk fairly miserable. I thought myself reasonably fit for someone in their sixth decade and unfortunately I was lying to myself! Being overweight and unfit was also a negative. The rain stopped halfway through the fourth day making the last day and a half the most enjoyable walking.
The saving grace of this Camino were the actual people of Galicia. I have rarely met a more friendly group of people. Special mention must be made to Antonio Father and Son who run the Meson Do Vento and picked me up from the Bruma section of the Camino and dropped me back there before sunrise the next day and refused any payment! Also the people who pointed me in the right direction when the way was not clear in mainly towns especially Fene where I took a wrong turn and got totally lost!
I followed the suggested five stages in the CSF guide starting in Ferrol. My observation about the first day is that the 29 KM Ferrol to Pontedeume section is too long for anyone is unfit. Stopping In Neda would be a better option for a first day. Alternatively taking the optional 24KM option via the railway bridge. In a similar way the climb towards Bruma at the end of a long wet day is not ideal. I would suggest either having a late start in Betanzos and sight see! Then a short day from Betanzos to the Albergue in Presedo (12KM) and a good meal at the Meson Museo . The next day could then be to Buscas making it around 25KM.
Along the way I met and kept meeting two nice Spanish girls Ysabet and Anna, A couple of Friendly Spanish youths, a group of four ladies from England and a large number of Polish Pilgrims. This camino was probably too short to form the "families" you find on the Frances. But everyone was friendly and I met up with Ysabett and Anna in the Queue for certificates in Santiago.
Having retired this year I was considering doing a number of Caminos over the next few years. I liked the idea of the Primitivo but know I am not fit enough. So next year I think I will try the Camino Portuguese from Oporto.

Well done! You must be fit if you walked 29k on the first day! I struggle to walk more than 20.
I walked the Ingles and the Fisterre-Muxia this year after not having walked for a couple of years. (I'm in my late 60s) I took it easy, and I was fine while I was walking, but after I returned home I got what seemed like tendonitis on my lower leg - swollen and painful. Strange that it waited till I had got home. (It only lasted a couple of days) Has anyone heard of this?
Hearing you talk about torrential rain made me realise how lucky I was - I went in early September and had glorious weather! You can never tell..

 

[Pelegrin]

The solitude was lovely and I'll never forget walking through the eucalyptus woods.

When I was walking through the eucaliptus woods on the Ingles I saw several arrows painted on trees because there weren´t other places (rocks, walls, etc). Probably those eucaliptus (which are private) will be cut in 5 0r 6 years. Then someone will have to repaint the arrows, But where?. Maybe it is cheaper paying the owner for the tree than building a milestone with the shell

 

[Former member 22438]

When I was walking through the eucaliptus woods on the Ingles I saw several arrows painted on trees because there weren´t other places (rocks, walls, etc). Probably those eucaliptus (which are private) will be cut in 5 0r 6 years. Then someone will have to repaint the arrows, But where?. Maybe it is cheaper paying the owner for the tree than building a milestone with the shell

No worry for the day of tomorrow
They will definitively cope with this.

 

[Pelegrin]

No worry for the day of tomorrow
They will definitively cope with this.

Yes, the eucalyptus owner or the timber company will tell the municipality.

 

[Grandma]

We just take twice as many days as others (on average). So - from Ferrol to Santiago took 8 walking days plus a day to see Betanzos. On the Primitivo we took 3 weeks from Tineo to Santiago including an extra day in Grandas de Salime (museum) and also 2 days in Lugo. All the shortest stages that we wanted and only long ones where dictated by the accommodation available. Shortest day 6kms from Grandas to Castro for the museum at the latter; longest day 24kms into Lugo -and nearly 2kms of that was walking round to our hotel. Anything is possible.....

I'm planning to walk the Camino ingles next May, as it'll be my first Camino I would like to take it very slowly, eight days I think would suit me well, would it be possible for you to post a list of the stages you chose for yours?

 

[Marcus-UK]

I'm planning to walk the Camino ingles next May, as it'll be my first Camino I would like to take it very slowly, eight days I think would suit me well, would it be possible for you to post a list of the stages you chose for yours?

1) Ferrol – Pontedeume 29 kms (via albergue at Neda) Very Long first day. Probably better to stop in Neda 13km. Then short walk to Pontedeume 16km and have a short rest day and sightseeing. OR
1a) (Ferrol – Pontedueme 23 kms (alternative route under railway bridge)
2) Pontedeume – Betanzos 20 kms. Could be split into Pontedeume to Mino 10km. Then on to Betanzos 10km. Take a full rest day in Betanzos and sight see. Recommend Hotel Garelos.
3) Betanzos – Hospital de Bruma 29 kms. Toughest day because of steep climb up to Bruma. Would recommend either Betanzos to Presedo 12km, Then on to Bruma next day 17Km. OR
3a) Plan to stay at Meson do Vento for two nights and arrange a pickup from Bar Julia 17km. Antonio will drop you off next day at Bar Julia and you can have a short day to Bruma or on to Buscas an extra 8km stay in the Casa Rural Dona Maria.
4) Hospital de Bruma – Sigüeiro 24 kms. This is actuallly the easiest day very flat. Siguero has some nice bars and restaurants.
5) Sigüeiro – Santiago de Compostela 16 kms - Short day into SDC!

Good luck and enjoy your Camino!

 

[Tia Valeria]

I'm planning to walk the Camino ingles next May, as it'll be my first Camino I would like to take it very slowly, eight days I think would suit me well, would it be possible for you to post a list of the stages you chose for yours?

As I said we took it very slowly
1 Ferrol to Narón - 15kms approx from the harbour. We shortened this by starting at the harbour the previous afternoon and then to our hotel which was our start point next morning. Saved about 3kms giving us 12kms on the first full day. A little further to the albergue at Neda
2 Narón to Pontedeume - 14kms (Or stop just before Pontedeume in a hotel in Cabañas)
3 Pontedeume to Miño - 12kms
4 Miño to Betanzos (2 nights to see churches etc) - 13.4kms
5 Betanzos to Casa Julia (pick up for O Meson Novo, return next day) - 19kms
6 Casa Julia to O Meson Novo (or Bruma) - 13kms
7 O Meson Novo to Calle de Poulo (taxi to Ordes, return next day) - 13.5kms
8 Calle de Poulo to Sigueiro - 11kms
9 Sigueiro to Santiago - 18kms (old route)

These figures are taken from our pilgrimage in 2011, which you can find on our blog under May 2011
We used @JohnnieWalker 's CSJ guide - downloadable off the forum or paper copies from CSJ UK
Buen Camino

 

[Marcus-UK]

Sorry I missed your question. I walked in Early September. The day I arrived was a perfect sunny day and so was the last day and the subsequent additional days I sathed in SDC as a short breal with my wife.