Camino Inglés - 7 Days

[natefaith]

Hola! I just finished the Camino Inglés today. Overall it was exactly what I needed as far as a time of personal retreat and contemplation, for which I'm grateful. The weather was perfect for walking and everything was in bloom at this time of year (without triggering any allergies!) and until the last two days there weren't many other pilgrims on the trail at all so I walked for many hours each day in solitude. However, especially the first few days, there were plenty of locals out and about using the trails as well so I didn't feel unsafe.

I walked over seven days and will set the stages down here in case others need help planning. For various reasons I booked private accommodation the entire week and did not stay in the albergues. I also tried to keep my stages to less than 24km as that's usually when I start feeling exhausted and problems develop.

Day 0: Train from Santiago to Ferrol, stayed in Hotel Almendra

Day 1: Ferrol to Neda, stayed in Pensión Maragoto. Wonderful room with a view onto the river, nice menu of the day and a good breakfast of eggs, ham, and juice in the morning.

Day 2: Neda to Cabañas, stayed in Hotel Iberia just a few steps from the beach. During the walk I followed Johnnie's guide and looked out for the gas station/rest stop at Vilar do Colo and had a nice needed break. At Cabañas it was too cold to swim but it was nice to sit on a bench and journal for a while.

Day 3: Cabañas to Betanzos, stayed in Hotel Garelos. This was an unexpectedly wicked hard day! It took me four hours just to walk the 12km to Miño as I am very, very slow going uphill, and there were a lot of steep uphills going from Pontedeume to Miño. If I had to do it over again and had the time, I'd stop in Miño for the night and enjoy the rest of the day there. But that's just me .

Day 4: Betanzos to Casa Julia, taxi back to Hotel Garelos in Betanzos. Maria is a wonderful taxi driver and was recommended by the hotel. The trip was 18€.

Day 5: Taxi to Casa Julia and walked on to Mesón do Vento, with a stay in Hotel Canaima.

Day 6: Mesón do Vento to Sigüeiro, stayed in Hostel Sigüeiro. I wish I had started out earlier this day, since the last 4- 5km into Sigüeiro are on an up-and-down gravel and dirt path without much shade. Ate at one of our favorite restaurants, Cortes, which is located near the nice wooded park you walk through to get to Sigüeiro.

Day 7: Sigüeiro to Santiago. A nice breakfast was included in the room price at the Hostel Sigüeiro so the day started out well. Around the 8th or 9th km(??) within the wooded path the back to Hotel Castro could be seen. It was well worth it to follow their signs and go around to the front entrance and use their bathroom and have an Aquarius in their posh cafeteria before moving on.

Hope all this helps. Let me know if you'd like more detail on anything . I used Johnnie's CSJ guide as well as the Wise Pilgrim Camino Inglés app. I'd also purchased Susan Jagannath's book and read it beforehand. All worth the investment.

Faith

EDIT and important note: future walkers will want to be aware that the route is in the middle of being changed as we speak, and the trail around Casa Julia is being re-routed. So the above itinerary will be outdated soon!

 

[Kanga]

Great to get a report of your trip Faith, and to hear you enjoyed it. Hope you are planning another one soon!

 

[mylifeonvacation]

Faith - that sounds like a wonderful itinerary! I also had a room at Maragoto facing the river and loved that view, especially as it changed through the afternoon and evening with the tide going in and out. The ladies there are so lovely.

I envy your two days in Betanzos - was the medieval fair still going on when you were there? I'd swap out O Meson Novo for Canaima in Meson do Vento, but otherwise it all sounds wonderful. Especially the part about relaxing on the beach at Cabañas! Glad it was a buen camino!

 

[JohnnieWalker]

Hola Faith, I'm glad you enjoyed this Camino. I'm interested that you didn't encounter other pilgrims as the hospitalera in Bruma reports that in this period and over the last month the Albergue has been full 4/5 days each week. But 20 pilgrims fill that albergue - not many to see when leaving at different times in the morning and stretched out over the day. Buen Camino John

 

[natefaith]

Hola Faith, I'm glad you enjoyed this Camino. I'm interested that you didn't encounter other pilgrims as the hospitalera in Bruma reports that in this period and over the last month the Albergue has been full 4/5 days each week. But 20 pilgrims fill that albergue - not many to see when leaving at different times in the morning and stretched out over the day. Buen Camino John

Hola John,
I encountered the most pilgrims right after Presedo and on. Previous to that I'd just see one here and there though I did have the privilege of walking with an Australian couple a few times when we'd coincide on the trail the first few days. After Bruma there were tons of high schoolers! I'd wondered if they'd started in Coruña as there was no sign of them previously.

 

[natefaith]

Faith - that sounds like a wonderful itinerary! I also had a room at Maragoto facing the river and loved that view, especially as it changed through the afternoon and evening with the tide going in and out. The ladies there are so lovely.

I envy your two days in Betanzos - was the medieval fair still going on when you were there? I'd swap out O Meson Novo for Canaima in Meson do Vento, but otherwise it all sounds wonderful. Especially the part about relaxing on the beach at Cabañas! Glad it was a buen camino!

Hola @mylifeonvacation! The banners and flags from the fair were still around but I arrived a couple days after it had finished I believe. Have you been to the Pasatiempo park at Betanzos? What a hoot.

 

[movinmaggie]

Wonderful that you were able to do this walk Faith. You more than deserve the time, peace and contemplation time, given the long hours and work you put in at Pilgrim House, as of course does Nate. You both are in my memory book. Kindness such as yours and Nate's are long remembered.

 

[Mike Savage]

Wonderful that you were able to do this walk Faith. You more than deserve the time, peace and contemplation time, given the long hours and work you put in at Pilgrim House, as of course does Nate. You both are in my memory book. Kindness such as yours and Nate's are long remembered.

I couldn't have said it any better! Congratulations Faith! I'm so glad you were able to take the time to experience this Camino.

 

[mylifeonvacation]

Hola @mylifeonvacation! . Have you been to the Pasatiempo park at Betanzos? What a hoot.

That sounds so festive, with the town all decorated like that still.

Oh, Pasatiempos is amazing! Weird and wonderful! I always describe it as "the place that time forgot". Sadly, it is actually starting to crumble in places, so I hope they will be putting some more attention to maintaining it, but still be able to retain that weird charm. So many great photos ops there ... people with a photographic eye should def put this on their list to visit when passing through.

 

[Peter Fransiscus]

Hola! I just finished the Camino Inglés today. Overall it was exactly what I needed as far as a time of personal retreat and contemplation, for which I'm grateful. The weather was perfect for walking and everything was in bloom at this time of year (without triggering any allergies!) and until the last two days there weren't many other pilgrims on the trail at all so I walked for many hours each day in solitude. However, especially the first few days, there were plenty of locals out and about using the trails as well so I didn't feel unsafe.

I walked over seven days and will set the stages down here in case others need help planning. For various reasons I booked private accommodation the entire week and did not stay in the albergues. I also tried to keep my stages to less than 24km as that's usually when I start feeling exhausted and problems develop.

Day 0: Train from Santiago to Ferrol, stayed in Hotel Almendra

Day 1: Ferrol to Neda, stayed in Pensión Maragoto. Wonderful room with a view onto the river, nice menu of the day and a good breakfast of eggs, ham, and juice in the morning.

Day 2: Neda to Cabañas, stayed in Hotel Iberia just a few steps from the beach. During the walk I followed Johnnie's guide and looked out for the gas station/rest stop at Vilar do Colo and had a nice needed break. At Cabñas it was too cold to swim but it was nice to sit on a bench and journal for a while.

Day 3: Cabañas to Betanzos, stayed in Hotel Garelos. This was an unexpectedly wicked hard day! It took me four hours just to walk the 12km to Miño as I am very, very slow going uphill, and there were a lot of steep uphills going from Pontedeume to Miño. If I had to do it over again and had the time, I'd stop in Miño for the night and enjoy the rest of the day there. But that's just me .

Day 4: Betanzos to Casa Julia, taxi back to Hotel Garelos in Betanzos. Maria is a wonderful taxi driver and was recommended by the hotel. The trip was 18€.

Day 5: Taxi to Casa Julia and walked on to Mesón do Vento, with a stay in Hotel Canaima.

Day 6: Mesón do Vento to Sigüeiro, stayed in Hostel Sigüiero. I wish I had started out earlier this day, since the last 4- 5km into Sigüeiro are on an up-and-down gravel and dirt path without much shade. Ate at one of our favorite restaurants, Cortes, which is located near the nice wooded park you walk through to get to Sigüiero.

Day 7: Sigüiero to Santiago. A nice breakfast was included in the room price at the Hostel Sigüiero so the day started out well. Around the 8th or 9th km(??) within the wooded path the back to Hotel Castro could be seen. It was well worth it to follow their signs and go around to the front entrance and use their bathroom and have an Aquarius in their posh cafeteria before moving on.

Hope all this helps. Let me know if you'd like more detail on anything . I used Johnnie's CSJ guide as well as the Wise Pilgrim Camino Inglés app. I'd also purchased Susan Jagannath's book and read it beforehand. All worth the investment.

Faith

EDIT and important note: future walkers will want to be aware that the route is in the middle of being changed as we speak, and the trail around Casa Julia is being re-routed. So the above itinerary will be outdated soon!

Congratulations Faith with a wonderful walk home.
Wish you well , Peter .

 

[Tia Valeria]

Well done Faith. It is great that the Camino gave you just what you needed.
We stayed at the Hotel Iberia (May 2015) and they opened up just for us. We had pre-booked but there was no-one else there. It felt really strange being the only people in such a big hotel.
We stopped in Miño and then the Garelos in Betanzos, which was booked out with pilgrims. A complete change from the Iberia .
I agree that the Pasatiempo is amazing, especially viewed from the raised walk.

 

[J Willhaus]

Thanks Faith! Enjoyed your post and itinerary. I hope someone will continue to update on the route changes. We hope to walk the Ingles in December.

 

[Parrottgang]

Sounds like you had a fantastic time. Interested in your plan as we (my husband, me and 10 year old daughter) will be completing this next Easter and didn't want too many long days!
Would be interested to chat more about how you booked and found hotels etc.
Do you know anything about the changes mentioned?
Have a lot of weight to lose before, but doing lots of walking and training already so hoping 8 months will be enough time
Thanks again.

 

[natefaith]

Sounds like you had a fantastic time. Interested in your plan as we (my husband, me and 10 year old daughter) will be completing this next Easter and didn't want too many long days!
Would be interested to chat more about how you booked and found hotels etc.
Do you know anything about the changes mentioned?
Have a lot of weight to lose before, but doing lots of walking and training already so hoping 8 months will be enough time
Thanks again.

Welcome to the forum, @Parrottgang ! Sure, ask away here and we all can answer, or you can message me through the private conversation feature.

If you browse through the Camino Inglés subforum you'll find a lot of good threads as well, with many repeat-Camino Inglés walkers contributing their knowledge: https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/forums/camino-ingles.23/

Hope that helps for now. Enjoy all the planning and Buen Camino!
Faith

 

[Jeff Crawley]

Hola! I just finished the Camino Inglés today. Overall it was exactly what I needed as far as a time of personal retreat and contemplation, for which I'm grateful. The weather was perfect for walking and everything was in bloom at this time of year (without triggering any allergies!) and until the last two days there weren't many other pilgrims on the trail at all so I walked for many hours each day in solitude. However, especially the first few days, there were plenty of locals out and about using the trails as well so I didn't feel unsafe.

I walked over seven days and will set the stages down here in case others need help planning. For various reasons I booked private accommodation the entire week and did not stay in the albergues. I also tried to keep my stages to less than 24km as that's usually when I start feeling exhausted and problems develop.

Day 0: Train from Santiago to Ferrol, stayed in Hotel Almendra

Day 1: Ferrol to Neda, stayed in Pensión Maragoto. Wonderful room with a view onto the river, nice menu of the day and a good breakfast of eggs, ham, and juice in the morning.

Day 2: Neda to Cabañas, stayed in Hotel Iberia just a few steps from the beach. During the walk I followed Johnnie's guide and looked out for the gas station/rest stop at Vilar do Colo and had a nice needed break. At Cabñas it was too cold to swim but it was nice to sit on a bench and journal for a while.

Day 3: Cabañas to Betanzos, stayed in Hotel Garelos. This was an unexpectedly wicked hard day! It took me four hours just to walk the 12km to Miño as I am very, very slow going uphill, and there were a lot of steep uphills going from Pontedeume to Miño. If I had to do it over again and had the time, I'd stop in Miño for the night and enjoy the rest of the day there. But that's just me .

Day 4: Betanzos to Casa Julia, taxi back to Hotel Garelos in Betanzos. Maria is a wonderful taxi driver and was recommended by the hotel. The trip was 18€.

Day 5: Taxi to Casa Julia and walked on to Mesón do Vento, with a stay in Hotel Canaima.

Day 6: Mesón do Vento to Sigüeiro, stayed in Hostel Sigüiero. I wish I had started out earlier this day, since the last 4- 5km into Sigüeiro are on an up-and-down gravel and dirt path without much shade. Ate at one of our favorite restaurants, Cortes, which is located near the nice wooded park you walk through to get to Sigüiero.

Day 7: Sigüiero to Santiago. A nice breakfast was included in the room price at the Hostel Sigüiero so the day started out well. Around the 8th or 9th km(??) within the wooded path the back to Hotel Castro could be seen. It was well worth it to follow their signs and go around to the front entrance and use their bathroom and have an Aquarius in their posh cafeteria before moving on.

Hope all this helps. Let me know if you'd like more detail on anything . I used Johnnie's CSJ guide as well as the Wise Pilgrim Camino Inglés app. I'd also purchased Susan Jagannath's book and read it beforehand. All worth the investment.

Faith

EDIT and important note: future walkers will want to be aware that the route is in the middle of being changed as we speak, and the trail around Casa Julia is being re-routed. So the above itinerary will be outdated soon!

That's me sorted out for next year then! Many thanks!

 

[roisinailishclancy]

Hola! I just finished the Camino Inglés today. Overall it was exactly what I needed as far as a time of personal retreat and contemplation, for which I'm grateful. The weather was perfect for walking and everything was in bloom at this time of year (without triggering any allergies!) and until the last two days there weren't many other pilgrims on the trail at all so I walked for many hours each day in solitude. However, especially the first few days, there were plenty of locals out and about using the trails as well so I didn't feel unsafe.

I walked over seven days and will set the stages down here in case others need help planning. For various reasons I booked private accommodation the entire week and did not stay in the albergues. I also tried to keep my stages to less than 24km as that's usually when I start feeling exhausted and problems develop.

Day 0: Train from Santiago to Ferrol, stayed in Hotel Almendra

Day 1: Ferrol to Neda, stayed in Pensión Maragoto. Wonderful room with a view onto the river, nice menu of the day and a good breakfast of eggs, ham, and juice in the morning.

Day 2: Neda to Cabañas, stayed in Hotel Iberia just a few steps from the beach. During the walk I followed Johnnie's guide and looked out for the gas station/rest stop at Vilar do Colo and had a nice needed break. At Cabñas it was too cold to swim but it was nice to sit on a bench and journal for a while.

Day 3: Cabañas to Betanzos, stayed in Hotel Garelos. This was an unexpectedly wicked hard day! It took me four hours just to walk the 12km to Miño as I am very, very slow going uphill, and there were a lot of steep uphills going from Pontedeume to Miño. If I had to do it over again and had the time, I'd stop in Miño for the night and enjoy the rest of the day there. But that's just me .

Day 4: Betanzos to Casa Julia, taxi back to Hotel Garelos in Betanzos. Maria is a wonderful taxi driver and was recommended by the hotel. The trip was 18€.

Day 5: Taxi to Casa Julia and walked on to Mesón do Vento, with a stay in Hotel Canaima.

Day 6: Mesón do Vento to Sigüeiro, stayed in Hostel Sigüiero. I wish I had started out earlier this day, since the last 4- 5km into Sigüeiro are on an up-and-down gravel and dirt path without much shade. Ate at one of our favorite restaurants, Cortes, which is located near the nice wooded park you walk through to get to Sigüiero.

Day 7: Sigüiero to Santiago. A nice breakfast was included in the room price at the Hostel Sigüiero so the day started out well. Around the 8th or 9th km(??) within the wooded path the back to Hotel Castro could be seen. It was well worth it to follow their signs and go around to the front entrance and use their bathroom and have an Aquarius in their posh cafeteria before moving on.

Hope all this helps. Let me know if you'd like more detail on anything . I used Johnnie's CSJ guide as well as the Wise Pilgrim Camino Inglés app. I'd also purchased Susan Jagannath's book and read it beforehand. All worth the investment.

Faith

EDIT and important note: future walkers will want to be aware that the route is in the middle of being changed as we speak, and the trail around Casa Julia is being re-routed. So the above itinerary will be outdated soon!

Hey Faith, very much looking forward to seeing you tomorrow in Pilgrim House. Will post on my return to London all about this wonderful camino .

 

[natefaith]

Hey Faith, very much looking forward to seeing you tomorrow in Pilgrim House. Will post on my return to London all about this wonderful camino .

Great! I'll be there. I think @miguel_gp will be around as well and we can all compare notes

And - congratulations!!

 

[roisinailishclancy]

Wonderful Faith and so looking forward to sharing my solo trip with you. Going forward I am already thinking of my next so doubt if I will travel with family or friends again
P.S. at the moment sitting on the terrace at hostel siguiero - what a find !

 

[natefaith]

Wonderful Faith and so looking forward to sharing my solo trip with you. Going forward I am already thinking of my next so doubt if I will travel with family or friends again
P.S. at the moment sitting on the terrace at hostel siguiero - what a find !

Yes, I really liked Hostel Siguiero. And I asked for a ton of stuff at breakfast (yogurt, ham, GF bread, juice, tea), thinking I would pay for it all, and then was blown away when it was all included in the room price already . Enjoy your night and your last day of walking. Buen Camino!
Faith

 

[roisinailishclancy]

Faith one last question. Best time to leave here for Santiago?

 

[natefaith]

Faith one last question. Best time to leave here for Santiago?

Hi Roisin,
If you'd like to make it for pilgrim's mass at noon, I'd leave by 6:00 or 6:30 or so. I left at 7:45 and made it to the Cathedral by 12:30 which would've been too late for mass. If you can arrive by 11am or 11:30am you'll have time to drop off your pack (you can't bring it in to the Cathedral) and then make your way to the Cathedral. You can drop off your pack at your hotel; Pilgrim House; the Campus Stellae storefront on Praza da Quintana, 3; or the Correos post office on Rua Franco, 4.

If you're not interested in attending mass tomorrow, I think leaving by 7:45/ 8:00 works fine!

Hope that helps!
Faith

 

[natefaith]

Well done Faith. It is great that the Camino gave you just what you needed.
We stayed at the Hotel Iberia (May 2015) and they opened up just for us. We had pre-booked but there was no-one else there. It felt really strange being the only people in such a big hotel.
We stopped in Miño and then the Garelos in Betanzos, which was booked out with pilgrims. A complete change from the Iberia .
I agree that the Pasatiempo is amazing, especially viewed from the raised walk.

It's actually really funny to think of you guys all alone in Hotel Iberia - it *is* huge! There are so many negative reviews on Booking.com about it, but the room I received on the 4th floor had new flooring, window treatments, and bathroom. It was all very nice, and a big plus was that it was just across from the beach.

Next time around I'll stop in Miño - I didn't take time to go see the beach there and would love to explore the town more.

Your blog was so helpful as I planned - a big thank you! (I don't think I've said it before!)

 

[handzondeck2]

Hola Faith glad you liked the Camino. It was awesome in May when I walked and probably will again some time. Buen Camino Sharon.

 

[natefaith]

Hola Faith glad you liked the Camino. It was awesome in May when I walked and probably will again some time. Buen Camino Sharon.

Sharon, your feedback was great when we saw each other. Hard to believe that was back in May...!! Time is volando.
Hugs

 

[JohnnieWalker]

It's actually really funny to think of you guys all alone in Hotel Iberia - it *is* huge! There are so many negative reviews on Booking.com about it, but the room I received on the 4th floor had new flooring, window treatments, and bathroom. It was all very nice, and a big plus was that it was just across from the beach.

Next time around I'll stop in Miño - I didn't take time to go see the beach there and would love to explore the town more.

Your blog was so helpful as I planned - a big thank you! (I don't think I've said it before!)

Ah you stayed in Cabanas. Didn't you miss going to the church of Santiago in Pontedueme which has a really nice welcome for pilgrims and a blessing at the end?

 

[natefaith]

Ah you stayed in Cabanas. Didn't you miss going to the church of Santiago in Pontedueme which has a really nice welcome for pilgrims and a blessing at the end?

Well John... I wouldn't say I missed it since I never went and didn't know what I was missing. But I'll try to go next time!