Camino for my 50th

[Rich1]

Hi all.
Firstly, what a great forum - tremendous source of information
Planning on doing the Camino as a 50th birthday present to myself - finishing in Santiago on my birthday May 28th.
Was just thinking Frances but having read more about Norte & Primitivo, I'm now muddled!!
I'm a trail & mountain runner and love getting away for a few days in the hills and mountains here in the UK. I like the solitude and peace during the day, and then a bit a natter in the evening at campsite or youth hostel.
The more I read about the Frances, the more I think it won't give me what I want. A Norte/Primitivo route sounds like it will be quieter - am I right in thinking its a bit more rural too?
Any advice gratefully received

 

[grayland]

There are many more pilgrims on the Camino Frances...but most of us still recommend it as a first camino.
The other routes have much to recommend also (I have done most of them) but the classic is the CF.
The month of May is a bit busy, but much less then June, July and August on the Camino Frances so you may not have the crowds you worry about.

 

[mikevasey]

If you are used to the mountains and hills then maybe the long road sections of the Norte might grate with you. A forum member (Peregrina2000) walked the Santo Toribio route to Potes from Santander, then walked the Ruta Vadiniense over the Picos to Leon, then the San Salvador route back over the mountains to Oviedo and then the Primitivo. If you started in Santander you would still have a lot of road walking but you could shorten it by starting in Santillana del Mar which is another traditional start point for Santo Toribio. The amount of road walking has been lessened on the Vadiniense, there is a guide in the resources section on here for it. The San Salvador is stunning and quite hard trail in places which might suit you, use the Confraternity of St James guide. You will meet peregrinos at the albergues on the Norte but on the turn off for Potes and on the Vadiniense you could be the only one, the same goes for the San Salvador but that is looking less likely even in May, on the Primitivo you will meet quite a few pilgrims and is good for mixing in the evenings. The Frances is special, you could almost say it is a way of friendship but if you like isolated rugged trails then don't expect it on that route apart from a few places.

I think the distance of the route I suggested from Santillana would be around 700kms.

Good Luck

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi all.
Firstly, what a great forum - tremendous source of information
Planning on doing the Camino as a 50th birthday present to myself - finishing in Santiago on my birthday May 28th.
Was just thinking Frances but having read more about Norte & Primitivo, I'm now muddled!!
I'm a trail & mountain runner and love getting away for a few days in the hills and mountains here in the UK. I like the solitude and peace during the day, and then a bit a natter in the evening at campsite or youth hostel.
The more I read about the Frances, the more I think it won't give me what I want. A Norte/Primitivo route sounds like it will be quieter - am I right in thinking its a bit more rural too?
Any advice gratefully received

Hi, Rich, It was 15 years ago that I walked the Camino as a 50th birthday event; little did I know I would become a camino addict, walking every year for as many weeks as possible. So beware!

Like Grayland, I usually suggest that a "first camino" be the Francés, but it´s not for everyone. You say that the more you read about the Francés, the more you think it won´t give you what you want. Can you be a little more specific about what you want? You are right that the Norte-Primitivo combination will be quieter. The Primitivo is definitely rural (but then so is a lot of the Francés), but the Norte goes through lots of beach tourist towns. This, in my experience, changes the vibe quite a bit. Pilgrims are a poor second to "real tourists" in the eyes of the local economy. And in summer there will be crowds, not necessarily of pilgrims, but of happy tourists.

When you say you like solitude, do you mean you want to be totally alone? I´ve walked a fair number of those caminos, so I can make some suggestions if that is what you´re looking for. Buen camino, Laurie

 

[peregrina2000]

If you are used to the mountains and hills then maybe the long road sections of the Norte might grate with you. A forum member (Peregrina2000) walked the Santo Toribio route to Potes from Santander, then walked the Ruta Vadiniense over the Picos to Leon, then the San Salvador route back over the mountains to Oviedo and then the Primitivo. If you started in Santander you would still have a lot of road walking but you could shorten it by starting in Santillana del Mar which is another traditional start point for Santo Toribio. The amount of road walking has been lessened on the Vadiniense, there is a guide in the resources section on here for it. The San Salvador is stunning and quite hard trail in places which might suit you, use the Confraternity of St James guide. You will meet peregrinos at the albergues on the Norte but on the turn off for Potes and on the Vadiniense you could be the only one, the same goes for the San Salvador but that is looking less likely even in May, on the Primitivo you will meet quite a few pilgrims and is good for mixing in the evenings. The Frances is special, you could almost say it is a way of friendship but if you like isolated rugged trails then don't expect it on that route apart from a few places.

I think the distance of the route I suggested from Santillana would be around 700kms.

Good Luck

We must have been writing at the same time, Mike. Yes, that´s a great route for people who do want solitary and mountains at the same time. Recent reports suggest that the Salvador is getting very popular (in fact I think you yourself reported on some crowding last year), but it is just beautiful.

 

[mikevasey]

You can look at the various routes using www.gronze.com/ these guides are good for distances, accommodation and height profiles but the guides on here and CSJ will be helpful in tricky situations with specific information to get you through confusing sections.

 

[MKalcolm M]

I too dithered between the Norte and the Frances for my first camino, and in the end chose the Norte because I like the sea and don't like crowds. I am very glad I did because it was a fabulous walk with great scenery, mountains, beaches, cliff top walks and towns en-route. There was room to set my own pace and walk alone when I wanted solitude, and good companionship when I wanted company. The irony of it was that having set out to walk alone, I developed a tight camino family and we met up and walked a lot together, and then a friendship evolved into a romance and the last half was walked hand in hand with a very sweet soul from Germany. (Two years on and we are planning to walk the European Peace Walk together this summer). If you want solitude during the day, hills and mountains to traverse on your own, then company in the evenings, I would definitely suggest you consider the Norte, starting in Irun, and you can decide whether to stay on it or go along the Primitivo while you walk. Buen camino, and happy half century!

 

[yeewun]

I too dithered between the Norte and the Frances for my first camino, and in the end chose the Norte because I like the sea and don't like crowds. I am very glad I did because it was a fabulous walk with great scenery, mountains, beaches, cliff top walks and towns en-route. There was room to set my own pace and walk alone when I wanted solitude, and good companionship when I wanted company. The irony of it was that having set out to walk alone, I developed a tight camino family and we met up and walked a lot together, and then a friendship evolved into a romance and the last half was walked hand in hand with a very sweet soul from Germany. (Two years on and we are planning to walk the European Peace Walk together this summer). If you want solitude during the day, hills and mountains to traverse on your own, then company in the evenings, I would definitely suggest you consider the Norte, starting in Irun, and you can decide whether to stay on it or go along the Primitivo while you walk. Buen camino, and happy half century!

I am also doing the Camino for my 50th. I start in Sarria on 27th march and will slowly complete my journey on the 2nd of april. Kind of worried as this is my first backpacking trip. A pity that our timings dont cross.

 

[Rich1]

Thanks for all the quick replies - all helpful.
I guess I just don't want to feel like I'm on a motorway or in a procession of hundreds. I'm not after total solitude but want to feel as though I'm on my own adventure, my own journey. And as much trail, and as little tarmac as possible.
Oh dear....sounds like a list!!

 

[solotraveller]

I'm going for the first time to walk the Camino Portuguese, Coastal part , they say there are no crowds of tourists and even piligrims are few on the way.

 

[peregrina2000]

Thanks for all the quick replies - all helpful.
I guess I just don't want to feel like I'm on a motorway or in a procession of hundreds. I'm not after total solitude but want to feel as though I'm on my own adventure, my own journey. And as much trail, and as little tarmac as possible.
Oh dear....sounds like a list!!

Hi, Rich,
Last July when I finished the Camino Olvidado in Ponferrada (having been completely alone after my walking partner had to stop after the first week), I decided to continue on the Frances rather than take the Camino de Invierno from Ponferrada to Santiago. I had walked the Invierno several years earlier and I knew it would be another totally alone experience. I was actually surprised to find that I never felt like I was in a mad rush. I saw a lot of people, but I stayed in towns that were not typical end-stage places in the guides and just never found overwhelming crowds. And I walked into Santiago the day before the feast day in July, so this was definitely a high traffic time. My point is that it really isn't hard to find the alone time you seek on the Frances if you are mindful of where you stay. And there is just something about the Frances....

I agree with Mike about the asphalt on the Norte, it is not fun. And the Vadiniense has some really nice mountain stretches, so you might want to look at what he suggests. Norte from Irun to San Vicente, Lebaniego/Vadiniense to Leon, Salvador to Oviedo, and then Primitivo into Santiago. Only the Lebaniego/VAdiniense will be solitary, the rest will have lots of pilgrims.

 

[Rich1]

Well....after much reflection (& dithering) , I'm all sorted to do the Frances and it feels right
My wife and I watched The Way a few years ago and just looked at each other and said we have to do that, so that was always my driving force. Jenny has just had knee surgery so perhaps we'll do a shortened Frances or Primitivo for her 50th in 2018
Anyway, flights all booked so no turning back.
So excited
Thanks for the advice everyone

 

[Old Koot]

I agree with Mike about the asphalt on the Norte, it is not fun.

Sheeest .... you just threw up a red flag about walking the del Norte .... how onerous and perhaps dangerous is walking "the asphalt" ?

I take it that pathways off asphalt aren't always an option so it's walking the road, along with not being able to avoid breathing the fumes of passing vehicles. I've walked the Camino Francis twice, so I wouldn't want to walk it again, and I thought that the northern route might be a more interesting challenge to commence in September.

 

[jpflavin1]

Well....after much reflection (& dithering) , I'm all sorted to do the Frances and it feels right
My wife and I watched The Way a few years ago and just looked at each other and said we have to do that, so that was always my driving force. Jenny has just had knee surgery so perhaps we'll do a shortened Frances or Primitivo for her 50th in 2018
Anyway, flights all booked so no turning back.
So excited
Thanks for the advice everyone

Rich1:

If you find the Frances not to your liking you can always switch over to the San Salvador in Leon and Primitivo in Oviedo. These are definitely more rural routes and much less traffic than the Frances.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[jpflavin1]

Sheeest .... you just threw up a red flag about walking the del Norte .... how onerous and perhaps dangerous is walking "the asphalt" ?

I take it that pathways off asphalt aren't always an option so it's walking the road, along with not being able to avoid breathing the fumes of passing vehicles. I've walked the Camino Francis twice, so I wouldn't want to walk it again, and I thought that the northern route might be a more interesting challenge to commence in September.

Old Koot:

The Norte gets a bad rap on asphalt walking. Sure you do walk through coastal towns, and have the option in places to walk the highway. That said, the are alternative routes and the e-9 intersects the route in many places. The Norte is a great route with lots of ocean views.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[peregrina2000]

Old Koot:

The Norte gets a bad rap on asphalt walking. Sure you do walk through coastal towns, and have the option in places to walk the highway. That said, the are alternative routes and the e-9 intersects the route in many places. The Norte is a great route with lots of ocean views.

Ultreya,
Joe

Yes, I hope that my comment about asphalt didn't break the deal with the Norte for anyone. I would highly recommend Joe's suggestion to head to the E-9, which is a European coastal path that you will see at many intersections. It always takes you back to the camino.

But I will say that the last time I was on the Norte, it was prior to walking the Vadiniense, and I started in Santander and turned off to the Vadiniense in San Vicente de la Barquera. I can tell you that from Santander to Comillas, which is just about 10 km (?) before San Vicente, there is virtually not one unpaved meter/foot. My problems were compounded by having missed the train/illegal track crossing into Mogro, so I added even 9 more kms to that total. But I also agree that the views are a great antidote. Buen camino, Laurie

and p.s., as TioTel has pointed out, my asphalt complaint is because of the fact that the hard surface does a number on my feet, NOT because the camino goes on busy roads. If your feet don't mind asphalt, you will love this part because it's secondary roads and no traffic almost the whole way!

 

[TerryB]

Sheeest .... you just threw up a red flag about walking the del Norte .... how onerous and perhaps dangerous is walking "the asphalt" ?

I take it that pathways off asphalt aren't always an option so it's walking the road, along with not being able to avoid breathing the fumes of passing vehicles. I've walked the Camino Francis twice, so I wouldn't want to walk it again, and I thought that the northern route might be a more interesting challenge to commence in September.

The "asphalt" is perhaps "onerous" if your feet do not like the hard surface. However, most of the road walking is on very minor roads and "traffic fumes" (apart from an occasional old tractor) do not exist Don't let the idea that the walking is on main roads put you off the Norte.

Blessings
Tio Tel

 

[Rich1]

No one's put me off - I'd already decided to do the Frances.
Norte/Primitivo will be for my wife's 50th

 

[Old Koot]

... I hope that my comment about asphalt didn't break the deal with the Norte for anyone. I would highly recommend Joe's suggestion to head to the E-9, which is a European coastal path that you will see at many intersections. It always takes you back to the camino.

Thank you for your kindly reassurances.

I had copied the Gronze.com web site de Norte route to my iPhone notes to be my walking guide, so now I will make the effort to integrate the E-9 European coastal path as recommended into my walking planning.

Thanks much!