LIVE from the Camino Camino for my 50th- Learning to Walk Anew

[blathercamino]

My wife and I are walking the Camino for my 50th birthday- though today is their birthday, 45. I’m starting this late after walking yesterday from Porto to Labruge. We landed at the municipal, soggy and tired, the last 900 meters a slog, but otherwise not too bad. We had the beaches to ourselves, only seeing locals out on the boardwalk and the occasional other peregrino.

Today- Labruge to Vila do Conde - 12km with detours

We walked as if in a cloud until Vila do Conde- 07:30-10:30

Once we arrived there it slowly started to clear. Lovely afternoon on the beach and still mostly to ourselves. We got a private room at Naval Guest House as a birthday treat. Explored the town, definitely check out the aqueduct- amazing. Walking on to Rates tomorrow.

I turn 50 in a week- I wanted to do something spiritually meaningful as well as a challenge physically, because I want to keep moving my body in this next chapter of life. In my training I discovered some hip pain and found out that a birth defect I thought had no impact (I was born with feet turned in and wore casts, braces, and corrective shoes) actually caused me to walk improperly. In the days before the trip with the help of a Feldenkrais practitioner, I learned to walk properly. It is not easy to remember, but so far so good. How’s that for both spiritual and physical? Learn how to walk again…

 

[grdemedeiros]

Looking forward to following your journey. I love the theme of learning to walk anew.

 

[bullingtonce]

My wife and I are walking the Camino for my 50th birthday- though today is their birthday, 45. I’m starting this late after walking yesterday from Porto to Labruge. We landed at the municipal, soggy and tired, the last 900 meters a slog, but otherwise not too bad. We had the beaches to ourselves, only seeing locals out on the boardwalk and the occasional other peregrino.

Today- Labruge to Vila do Conde - 12km with detours

We walked as if in a cloud until Vila do Conde- 07:30-10:30

Once we arrived there it slowly started to clear. Lovely afternoon on the beach and still mostly to ourselves. We got a private room at Naval Guest House as a birthday treat. Explored the town, definitely check out the aqueduct- amazing. Walking on to Rates tomorrow.

I turn 50 in a week- I wanted to do something spiritually meaningful as well as a challenge physically, because I want to keep moving my body in this next chapter of life. In my training I discovered some hip pain and found out that a birth defect I thought had no impact (I was born with feet turned in and wore casts, braces, and corrective shoes) actually caused me to walk improperly. In the days before the trip with the help of a Feldenkrais practitioner, I learned to walk properly. It is not easy to remember, but so far so good. How’s that for both spiritual and physical? Learn how to walk again…

Think about it . . . it was not so many decades ago that the average person did not even live to be fifty, much less being able to do a Camino at fifty. Chuck

 

[blathercamino]

Day 3- Vila do Conde to Pedra Furada ~20k
6:10-13:30
A muggy muggy high of 71

Today I noticed a sore spot on the inside of my heel on the side of my bad hip- so it’s the leg I walk “wrong” on. I’m still not sure what is happening there, but I noticed if I walk “right” it doesn’t hurt! Hmm… thanks to the Great Good for that.

We took the river route and didn’t find the traffic too bad. There were some dicey spots but it was ok. Lots of lovely scenery after the first 5km or so. Rolling hills, eucalyptus, churches, grapes and more. So much lovely stonework. There were some ups and downs, but very doable. We saw many biker peregrinos once we joined the Central at Arcos- the bridge and willow tree there are stunning. Several walkers as well.

We got to the Albergue- O Palhuço before it opened and sat and waited the 30 minutes until it opened. We were the first to arrive and got to shower and wash clothes in the empty albergue. Comfy beds! People beginning to trickle in now.

Highlights:

Getting off the road
Lovely country views including baby lambs
Friendly dogs walking with us a bit
Tasty lunch at the end of a long day from the pandeleria and supermarket
The universe helping me walk properly and no pain!
A peregrino park where we left an offering
Meeting a couple whose daughter goes to the same university as ours..

 

[blathercamino]

Think about it . . . it was not so many decades ago that the average person did not even live to be fifty, much less being able to do a Camino at fifty. Chuck

Indeed!

 

[blathercamino]

Looking forward to following your journey. I love the theme of learning to walk anew.

It’s definitely a lovely motto of sorts.

 

[jfgough]

My wife and I are walking the Camino for my 50th birthday- though today is their birthday, 45. I’m starting this late after walking yesterday from Porto to Labruge. We landed at the municipal, soggy and tired, the last 900 meters a slog, but otherwise not too bad. We had the beaches to ourselves, only seeing locals out on the boardwalk and the occasional other peregrino.

Today- Labruge to Vila do Conde - 12km with detours

We walked as if in a cloud until Vila do Conde- 07:30-10:30

Once we arrived there it slowly started to clear. Lovely afternoon on the beach and still mostly to ourselves. We got a private room at Naval Guest House as a birthday treat. Explored the town, definitely check out the aqueduct- amazing. Walking on to Rates tomorrow.

I turn 50 in a week- I wanted to do something spiritually meaningful as well as a challenge physically, because I want to keep moving my body in this next chapter of life. In my training I discovered some hip pain and found out that a birth defect I thought had no impact (I was born with feet turned in and wore casts, braces, and corrective shoes) actually caused me to walk improperly. In the days before the trip with the help of a Feldenkrais practitioner, I learned to walk properly. It is not easy to remember, but so far so good. How’s that for both spiritual and physical? Learn how to walk again…

Happy to see your posts!
I wish I was only 50, but grateful to "keep on truckin" at 66.
My first Camino was the CF last fall. This year I am walking the Camino Portuguse Central via the Sends Litoral. Your itenerary seems to mirror what I am planning.
My first day out of Porto I am stopping in Matosinhos to get my hiking legs. After that I plan to go to Vila do Conde and then join the Central.
Thanks for sharing the detailed description of your journey.
Bom Caminho

 

[blathercamino]

Day 4- Pedra Furada- Vila Boa (and exploring Barcelos) 14.3km (12.5 without the wandering.)

Today was almost a rest day, which was ok, because my pack was bothering my back a bit. We set out a little later than we had been, about 6:45. Walked out and into a Eucalyptus forest, through some little towns and farm areas and then hooked up with the suburbs, Staples store and all. Lots of lovely scenery, but the highlight of the day was the Medieval town of Barcelos. As we entered, we found a park and took off our shoes and put our feet up, a pilgrims’s rest as Sarah called it. We then saw the ruins of an old duke’s house, saw an exhibit of the 50 year anniversary of the Carnation Revolution (the fall of fascism in Portugal), had a great lunch, and climbed 100 stairs (with packs) to the top of an old tower where we could look back and see from whence we came. Then, leaving town we took pictures with the newly unveiled peregrina sculpture along the Camino as you leave Barcelos. This will surely become a must have photograph. We are now about to sit down for our pilgrim meal prepared by Flora at Alojamento Flora.

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[blathercamino]

Day 5- Vila Boa- Casa da Fernanda

Today we had a longer walk, 17 kilometers (19.6 with extra wandering) but my pack was better adjusted and I was much more comfortable. I think I am getting stronger. Sarah says that in 9 days we have walked 98 miles!

Our destination today was Casa da Fernanda, a place known for the “pilgrim experience”- a gathering of people from around the world sharing stories of their Camino and what brought them here. Fernanda is an excellent host and there is great food and conviviality. But as she said today, it was um noite tranquilo. It was just us and a couple of young Spanish history students. I think graduate school. We had a lovely dinner and conversation, but it was not what I might have hoped for… and, I’m clearly not in charge! The space is delightful (a lovely open air living room and kitchen opening up into a garden and comfy beds in an adjoining cabin.) besides Fernanda and the space (and pups and kitties) the highlight was that she gave us a lemon cake that tasted exactly like the cake my mom used to make my dad on his birthday. My mom died 4 months ago, so that was pretty special.

Tomorrow we will have a leisurely morning and then head to Ponte da Lima. It’s our 6 year anniversary and Fernanda says it is a very romantic city.

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[Pscarmen]

Day 3- Vila do Conde to Pedra Furada ~20k
6:10-13:30
A muggy muggy high of 71

Today I noticed a sore spot on the inside of my heel on the side of my bad hip- so it’s the leg I walk “wrong” on. I’m still not sure what is happening there, but I noticed if I walk “right” it doesn’t hurt! Hmm… thanks to the Great Good for that.

We took the river route and didn’t find the traffic too bad. There were some dicey spots but it was ok. Lots of lovely scenery after the first 5km or so. Rolling hills, eucalyptus, churches, grapes and more. So much lovely stonework. There were some ups and downs, but very doable. We saw many biker peregrinos once we joined the Central at Arcos- the bridge and willow tree there are stunning. Several walkers as well.

We got to the Albergue- O Palhuço before it opened and sat and waited the 30 minutes until it opened. We were the first to arrive and got to shower and wash clothes in the empty albergue. Comfy beds! People beginning to trickle in now.

Highlights:

Getting off the road
Lovely country views including baby lambs
Friendly dogs walking with us a bit
Tasty lunch at the end of a long day from the pandeleria and supermarket
The universe helping me walk properly and no pain!
A peregrino park where we left an offering
Meeting a couple whose daughter goes to the same university as ours..

So wonderful you're finding such beauty in your pain. I’d planned & saved for years to turn 50 on my Camino. Life ended that dream. That was March 2019. It’s time to start planning again. You inspire me. Remember your new walk & carry on. Buen camino.

 

[grdemedeiros]

Day 4- Pedra Furada- Vila Boa (and exploring Barcelos) 14.3km (12.5 without the wandering.)

Today was almost a rest day, which was ok, because my pack was bothering my back a bit. We set out a little later than we had been, about 6:45. Walked out and into a Eucalyptus forest, through some little towns and farm areas and then hooked up with the suburbs, Staples store and all. Lots of lovely scenery, but the highlight of the day was the Medieval town of Barcelos. As we entered, we found a park and took off our shoes and put our feet up, a pilgrims’s rest as Sarah called it. We then saw the ruins of an old duke’s house, saw an exhibit of the 50 year anniversary of the Carnation Revolution (the fall of fascism in Portugal), had a great lunch, and climbed 100 stairs (with packs) to the top of an old tower where we could look back and see from whence we came. Then, leaving town we took pictures with the newly unveiled peregrina sculpture along the Camino as you leave Barcelos. This will surely become a must have photograph. We are now about to sit down for our pilgrim meal prepared by Flora at Alojamento Flora.

'Day 4 - Pedra Furada to Vila Boa' | Relive

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That Staples store! It all of a sudden comes into view and shakes you!

 

[grdemedeiros]

We loved Ponte de Lima, it *is* romantic! Take your time to savor it. I'm sorry to hear that there weren't a lot of people at Fernanda’s, but so happy to read the lemon cake story. We found several small groups and individual connections in other places/moments and ended up celebrating with them in Santiago (rather than our Fernanda "family" who ended up days ahead of us).

 

[blathercamino]

Day 6 - Casa da Fernanda- Ponte de Lima

Today we left our accommodation of the previous night later than we had any other day, setting out at 9:40 after a lovely breakfast and conversation with our host, Fernanda. On the way, I started to pick up a couple of pieces of trash, saying to sarah that I had meant to put a mesh bag outside my pack to collect it. About then we found a relatively clean plastic bag- the Camino provides! I filled it with trash and eventually found a place to drop it. Nice to leave a place better than you found it.

We walked 14 kilometers on to Ponte de Lima, a medieval town on a river. When we arrived we began to look for lodging, asking first at a boarding house just off a main praça in town, seeking a private room as it was our anniversary. The place we had chosen only had a room with twin beds so we said no thank you, and went back to the square to collect our thoughts and look around for another place. We sat and just in front of us was another hotel, which Google indicated was highly rated. We said to ourselves , well we must be intended to stay here as we have sat down randomly looking right at it. We rang the bell and the owner answered the door, saying he did have a room. He checked the ledger and I could understand that he said they only had the quarto matrimonial - I’m guessing the honeymoon suite is how that translates. It’s beautiful, a huge suite at the top of the building over looking the square and the church built in 1455.

So we asked for a private room and the Camino provided us with a beautiful honeymoon sweet. Happy Sixth Anniversary! Muito obrigada ao Caminho de Santiago!

 

[blathercamino]

Day 7- Ponte de Lima to Rubiães

19km and blissfully cool/misty

Today was the big climb and while it was challenging, it wasn’t too challenging. We were happy to have a bit of rain to keep us cool as we ascended the 400 meters, most of which was in about 5-6km. The walk was mostly through trails and forest, considerably less roads than we had before.

We stopped at Bar Roulete just at the base of the descent and found three other peregrinos there, soon to be joined by two more. A young Portuguese man was impressed when sarah translated his conversation for me.. “wait, you understood?!?” …

As we headed to our destination for the night we saw Alejandro and Marta from Fernamda’s two nights ago. We waited outside the hostel we had chosen for about 20 minutes past when it was supposed to open and decided that was not where we were supposed to stay and returned up the hill to Casa Sao Sebastio and found two peregrines from lunch as well as Marta and Alejandro. Perhaps we are beginning to have a more social Camino. Sarah is more of an introvert than I, but the last couple days Sarah too has been craving some more interaction with fellow peregrinos. Perhaps the Camino was helping them to build up that want with a little solitude beforehand.

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[grdemedeiros]

Day 6 - Casa da Fernanda- Ponte de Lima

Today we left our accommodation of the previous night later than we had any other day, setting out at 9:40 after a lovely breakfast and conversation with our host, Fernanda. On the way, I started to pick up a couple of pieces of trash, saying to sarah that I had meant to put a mesh bag outside my pack to collect it. About then we found a relatively clean plastic bag- the Camino provides! I filled it with trash and eventually found a place to drop it. Nice to leave a place better than you found it.

We walked 14 kilometers on to Ponte de Lima, a medieval town on a river. When we arrived we began to look for lodging, asking first at a boarding house just off a main praça in town, seeking a private room as it was our anniversary. The place we had chosen only had a room with twin beds so we said no thank you, and went back to the square to collect our thoughts and look around for another place. We sat and just in front of us was another hotel, which Google indicated was highly rated. We said to ourselves , well we must be intended to stay here as we have sat down randomly looking right at it. We rang the bell and the owner answered the door, saying he did have a room. He checked the ledger and I could understand that he said they only had the quarto matrimonial - I’m guessing the honeymoon suite is how that translates. It’s beautiful, a huge suite at the top of the building over looking the square and the church built in 1455.

So we asked for a private room and the Camino provided us with a beautiful honeymoon sweet. Happy Sixth Anniversary! Muito obrigada ao Caminho de Santiago!

That sounds lovely! Ponte de Lima was one of my favorite towns on the Central.

 

[Anamya]

I'm loving your posts! When we stopped at Fernanda's, years ago, the place was PACKED, with people sleeping or her garden. The dinner was crazy, and so was the breakfast, but she was the most lovely host. I actually loved the next day walking into Ponte de Lima and then having a quieter night... that Portugues really gives you all sorts of experiences!

Btw, "quarto matrimonial" usually refers to a room for two people sleeping together, so it has a double or queen beds instead of two singles (which would be called a "quarto duplo" or "habitacion doble") . But it's SO BEAUTIFUL how in your camino the quarto is actually a honeymoon suite! what a perfect way to end your anniversary day!

Wishing you the best camino!

 

[blathercamino]

I knew from my Spanish language lessons that matrimonial just meant double- but this was pretty honeymoon suite (if a modest one.) All white, dormered windows looking out to the praça… just lovely.

 

[blathercamino]

Day 8- Rubiães to Valença ~16km

We started a bit late so we could have some café com elite at Sao Sebastian cafe before leaving and then started out with a few fellow pilgrims from the night before. We spent the day in and out of connection with people, walking for a bit and talking and then for one reason or another (needing to stop for food or an adjustment on one’s feet or whatever) would split off from each other only to connect up again later. Sometimes we said goodbye, but often just see you later… and we often did. It was strange to just trust and let things come and go, but lovely too.

Then we met back up at the end of the walk with those we began the day with- finding a spot for lunch in Valença before they went on to their lodging in Tui. Sarah and I then explored the walled city a bit and got gelato and decided we didn’t have time to do much in Tui before bed and didn’t want to rush around, so we are taking a rest day tomorrow and I’m going to celebrate my 50th birthday in Valença and Tui, though thus far we haven’t found lodging in Tui- any suggestions?

We don’t need to rush and the halfway point seems a good place for a day off. We are again in a relatively empty hostel, but think that will change as we move into Spain.

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[grdemedeiros]

It was around this same spot on the Central that we started leap-frogging with folks. It was one of my favorite parts of our Camino.

Sorry I don't have a recommendation in Tui. We stayed at Residencia Portas do Sol in Valença. It was clean and comfortable, in a great location, but a little spendy and impersonal. Everything was done online, including check in and check out. We didn't see a single other person/pilgrim there.

 

[blathercamino]

Day 9- my 50th- rest day and day off

I was just writing about my 50th birthday and how understated it has been. This trip has not been one of exclamations, but so many moments of contemplation, presence, open heartiness, strength and gratitude. It’s a gift to be alive, step each step, breathe each breath, here, now.

We did some laundry, wandered Tui a bit, struggled with our eating schedule and the restaurants’ open hours. Struggling a bit with language, sarah knows quite a bit of Spanish and I a little, but they speak so fast and the accent is a bit challenging.

Tonight a comfy bed at Albergue Pallanes, tomorrow O Porrino.

 

[blathercamino]

Day 10- Tui- O Porrino ~17km

Sarah said, morale is low today. I started off ok, but the blister on my big toe increasingly caused me pain. Sarah, ever the fixer, made a donut for it out of lambswool, which helped a bit.

Overall though, the walk wasn’t nearly as nice as all the previous days and the blister didn’t help. I think the highlight was the Xarden cafe in the beginning where we had breakfast after an hour and a half of walking. Lots of pilgrims there and so many in general. We probably saw over 40 on our walk today. Sarah says the highest before that was about 11.

When we got to town we stopped for a snack before the allergies opened. Then we went to our first choice which was full… she then called one up the street (the one that was basically a tie with the first, but lost because it was further)- they had beds! Can definitely recommend Albergue Casucho de Peregrina.

My blister has bothered me a lot tonight. I’m worried about tomorrow… I put some second skin on it after reading they need moisture to heal. Last night I tried to dry it out because I heard that was better. It felt better today than after the second skin… so going back to dry. I think here’s the thing, it’s going to hurt, pain free is not a thing right now, but drier seemed to lead to less pain. That seems like a spiritual lesson, we probably can’t get through a lot of things pain free, but we can try to minimize the suffering.

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[blathercamino]

Day 11- O Porrino to Cesantes

Approx 20 km, getting hotter- hi of 79

Last night I feared my blisters were going to get the best of me and today it wasn’t so bad. I’m learning that I need more faith that things will work out. I am walking a little funny bc of the blisters and that hurts my foot and leg. So! I went to the shoe store. I decided I’d see if anything felt like a better fit than what I had. The first shoe didn’t hurt my toe! Hooray. So, I now have an extra pair of shoes to carry around a bit (I figure these new ones probably can’t be worse, but who knows… the old ones went with me on many double digit mileage treks and I never got a blister.) it seems a bit risky to switch shoes mid Camino, but we will see!

Today otherwise was gorgeous and lovely. So many pilgrims, but several we’ve seen around for a while. There are a could have folks who are teachers in Denmark we keep running into. It’s fun to see people again.

Trouble finding a place in pontevedra so we booked ahead for combarra too. I had wanted to not book, but it doesn’t seem possible from here on out.

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[blathercamino]

Day 12- Cesantes to Pontevedra ~17 km (plus about 6 walking around town)

Today was gorgeous and rainy. We stopped early in Arcade for breakfast and then about 100 short stops to check my shoes, tend to possible issues. Well, probably 6-8 times. We. Were. Slow. Today. We left at 7 and got in at 2. We tool such a long breakfast and had all those steps that in the last 12 km (and there were lots of ups and downs today) we took no real rest. We learned that made us a little cranky. Kudos to my wife for their patience with my stops. I am so lucky to have them.

It was a gorgeous walk with lots of vistas and a beautiful river walk as we approached Pontevedra (this was the Complementaria-alternate route). We got some food and then rest and we were better. I had pulpo- octopus, which I’ve generally stopped eating bc I have an affinity for octopus as a creature (I tried to explain this to the Spanish pilgrim who shared our table and she did not understand my sentimentality (also a language barrier to explain the nuance of how I am fine with cow and chicken and salmon, but not octopus.) Anyway, I decided I’d try it once in Spain and it was definitely tasty. I also had my first tortilla! Yum!

Then, after siesta we explored the town, got chocolate y churros and pan y queso- very healthy dinner! ;-) Amd walked around and saw the gorgeous city. We visited the church dedicated to pilgrims and climbed to the top of the dome… I plastered myself to the wall. Sarah can share that picture.

Later we saw two folks from our hostel last night. We run into more people repeatedly here than I do in Seattle! Irene and Phillip from Denmark have been fixtures in our lives for days. We will likely not see folks again bc we have not heard of many who are taking the Varient Espiritual, a detour off the main route (not terribly historic, but supposed to be beautiful.)

Today I was both worried about blisters and my feet and feeling sad that we only have five days of walking left. Sarah found that a little contradictory, but there’s just so much in every day and step. Some draining and worrying. Some nourishing and life giving. We don’t have life without pain. We don’t have beauty without struggle. That was today.

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'Around Pontevedra' | Relive

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[blathercamino]

Day 13- Pontevedra to Combarro ~11km

This was almost a rest day, but a gorgeous walk up and out of Pontevedra. We really liked both Pontevedra and Combarro. At a little cafe in Cabeliero we had a nice conversation with a couple from The Netherlands. They asked us how Trump happened/is still happening. There was some talk from them about the rumors about Biden stepping down and then later came the news (we haven’t been following, but folks at home texted.) I am pretty sure we will see them again tomorrow and perhaps we will have a different conversation.

At that same cafe Sarah met more teachers. Definitely a lot of teachers walking right now.

We also met up with my cousin, Brad who did the Frances on short notice right after his wife died. He then did the Portuguese and met someone he is now dating. We had a lovely lunch with them and shared stories of the Camino and they told us about life in Spain. Oh yeah, Brad moved to Santiago in February.

Then we wandered Combarro and took more pictures of cute streets. The streets in Combarro are next level cute.

Tomorrow is the big climb and a hot day, but also the stone and water route. Challenges and beauty await.

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[grdemedeiros]

Can't wait to hear you impressions of the big climb and route of Stone and Water.

 

[blathercamino]

Day 14- Combarro to Os Castaños ~17km (I think)

Today was another climb and the first day of three 90+ days (we have been blessed with mostly low to mid 70s), so we set out at first light to stay out of the heat. The hill was steep, but very doable. We got to the little fridge with drinks right as the sun rose over the hills and there was a bench right there to take it in. And from there it was a little less steep, but consistent. It seemed everything was working for me that day. New shoes not rubbing, pack adjusted well, and I just felt strong. Nice gift of confidence for my newly 50 year old body. And remember that learning how to walk again thing? I’m guessing I’m doing it, because NO HIP PAIN since starting the Camino. Total Camino miracle.

We got to the top and had gorgeous views and it still wasn’t too hot. Then walking the crest for a bit and out of nowhere, Sarah fell. They are ok, a little scraped up and a bit of a sore wrist. They wish I had taken a picture of them on the ground, which I thought about asking them if they wanted it and decided that might not be welcome. You can imagine… I’m on the ground and you want to take a picture?!? Alas… We also realized this day that we forgot to get a picture with my cousin!

After that excitement we came down the hill into Armentiera with Ben (who had trotted up behind us just past the crest) whom I had met at the Albergue the night before. He probably left an hour after us and was going all the way to Villanova de Arousa that day. He asked us about our experience of the Albergue and we all agreed answering your phone in the dorm is generally a no go, but certainly at 11:30pm! She had a whole conversation. Definitely an exercise in surrender. Anyway, Ben walked with us until we three, victoriously first to the cafe, discovered it didn’t open for 45 minutes. We decided to wait and check out the momentary and Ben disappointed not to have coffee went on. I sent him with a cookie and a piece of fruit I had, knowing I’d eat soon. Then, the cafe opened at 10 instead of 10:30 and we felt bad Ben had gone on.

After that, the Rute de pedra y agua. This is a lovely hobbit like fairy forest along a river that way back in the day was used to power grain mills. So there are these very old stone structures covered in moss and the small river running over rocks, sometimes creating little waterfalls. It went on for some ways and we took so many pictures. It was completely magical. Unfortunately all the picture taking aggravated Sarah’s wrist, but it’s ok now.

We ended the day hanging out around our hotel in Os Castaños and then had a little snack at Concha’s bar. She was very welcoming to pilgrims. Coming back from the snack bar to the hotel we met Dion and Susan and sat with them for a while. )we met them at lunch the day before.)

Ben- UK
Dion and Susan- The Netherlands

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[blathercamino]

Day 15- Os Castaños to Villa de Arousa ~16/17 km

This walk had a lot to live up to in order to beat the day before. I knew it would not. It was a hot day and we set out early to beat most of it. By the time we got to the coast we were pretty hot and tired. We got some food, checked into the albergue, took a siesta and went out to the beach. Dion and Susan were in our Albergue room and it was nice to see them again. They are definitely our people, sarah and Dion connected on “woo” and energy medicine. Susan and I don’t share this with them, but respectfully appreciate it.

The water at the beach was blissfully my fria. Once we dipped the 94 degrees was much more bearable. We then set off for dinner and invited Dion and Susan. The view and the company better than the food, but it was doable. Then, as we left we were trying to take a four person selfie and a woman offered to take it for us. She asked where we were from and we told her and she said she was from Michigan and I asked where. It turns out she is from Birmingham, Michigan, which is where my parents met teaching at Birmingham Seaholm high school, which is where her daughter graduated high school. Small world. She was there with her Spanish husband who is from the area.

I’ve had little touches of my mom here and there on this trip. Certainly thoughts of her. The cake at Fernanda’s, stories with my cousin, and now this encounter. Sweet little moments.

We have only two days left and it is hard to imagine the end.

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[blathercamino]

Day 16- Villa de Arousa to Vilar ~9.5 km

We took the boat up the river to meet back up with the main Camino. Dion and Susan were on our boat and we got a final coffee with them. Then we walked around Padron a bit with them before we said farewell and Buen Camino. We got their number and the sent us a picture of us walking off. We were sad to leave them, but hope to meet up in Santiago.

Short walk to Vilar and a lovely relaxing afternoon at O Lugar in Vilar. The place is a big stone house that has a historic winemaking artifact in it. We had a fantastic communal meal talking about walking into Santiago tomorrow. It happens to be St James day, the biggest day of the year for Santiago. The King of Spain will be there and we too are arriving. Many people plan that arrival date, we all stumbled upon it (and luckily figured it out soon enough to get reservations.)

Last walk tomorrow. Hard to believe it’s here already. We are not feeling ready to be done. We have gotten so used to the rhythm. I have found such a simple presence on this walk, more than I have ever experienced before. Truly just in the moment most of the time we are walking (except when I want coffee, food, or a bathroom!) Oh, and often that last kilometer! I won how that one will be tomorrow???

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View my hike: Day 16- Villa de Arousa to Vilar

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[blathercamino]

Day 17- Vilar- Santiago! 20 km

I don’t know that I have it in me to write something complete enough, but I am overdue to at least do this last post.

We had a lovely night at O Lugar and left at first light thinking, according to Wise Pilgrim, we had 17 km to Santiago. Our first marker read 20. This was fine though bc we had both said, I’m not ready to be done.

This was probably my most physically challenging day… I had developed some itis of some sort- tendinitis or fasciaitis, not sure which, but I had pain in my left foot walking. I then for the first time the whole Camino had pain in my hip! I had wondered if I was walking “right” or if I had had a Camino miracle given that my hip hasn’t hurt the whole way. I think the pain in my foot led me to walk in the old way and my hip was painful again. So, I think I did a decent job of learning to walk anew!

As I struggled in those last kilometers I pulled out some letters people wrote me for my journey. They helped fuel me on and remember that this is a spiritual journey and not necessarily supposed to be easy. I called on my resources and just put one foot in front of the other. It want that challenging, but more than I had experienced.

As we got near the city I started to get excited and teary. I didn’t expect the destination to give me that feeling, but it did. We were full of anticipation as we entered the old town… and ran smack into a Galician independence parade and demonstration. And later the St James day parade. We finally found the square and we couldn’t get in because we had backpacks… the Kimg was there for mass on the holiday and security was high. We decided the only thing to do was drop our bags at the hostel and return. Which we did, but they wouldn’t let my small daypack through either. Finally… and hour and a half after we got there they lifted restrictions and we got into the square… so anticlimactic!

Since then we’ve been all around town and now out to Fisterra. The thing we’ve marveled at most is running into so many people we thought we’d never see again in our lives. Amazing.

Still percolating on the lessons… wrap up post later.