LIVE from the Camino Camino do Mar by Mera

Caminogoat · Oct 16, 2023

I had been walking the Notrte, but had skipped a lot of segments after Deba. To me Irún to Deba is breathtakingly beautiful and exciting, I enjoy every step. But after Deba, I had walked only my favorite segments. I arrived at the Playa de Peñarronda (4 kilometers before Ribadeo) the day before yesterday. I have not been posting anything since the war between Israel and Palestinians broke out. I had walked feeling somber and sad. I have been and am praying for peace.

Yesterday, I started Camino do Mar. I will post my daily experiences in short sentences for those who never walked this Camino. It’s my first, too. My initial impression is that it is like walking between San Sebastián and Deba but on flat land. It is so beautiful and easy that I never took a break during the first 10 miles or so until I arrived in Rinlo. I used Wikiloc and the Google map. I don’t know if there are any exclusive Camino do Mar apps out there. Does anyone know? This albergue located right after crossing the bridge to Ribadeo is kind of a starting point. When I found a pension room with an ocean view (walked 16.56 miles from the Playa de Peñarronda). I stopped. The only downside is that there is no WiFi. I will post more photos tomorrow when I hopefully find a room with WiFi.

Caminogoat · Oct 16, 2023

Yesterday, there was no service until I reached Rinlo. I started from La playa de Peñarronda so it was about 10 miles for me. If you love the ocean, this is the trail where you can get plenty of it.

Caminogoat · Oct 16, 2023

The pension I stayed was clean but had a bare minimum, basic things only. The restaurant food was good. The view from the room was beautiful, but when I went to the beach, I saw a scary warning that made me put my shoes back on immediately.

Caminogoat · Oct 16, 2023

I started walking at 8 am but it was still dark. The sunrise happens around 8:30 here.

Caminogoat · Oct 16, 2023

Today’s route toward Burela was not as beautiful as yesterday’s. It was because I had to walk inland in a U shape, hugging the river. You can walk along the beach until you see Foz right across the ocean, but there is no ferry to cross you. Without a ferry, it is a long detour. A lot of paved road. A bit hilly at times. I tried to attach some photos but the WiFi is so slow that I gave it up. I quit a little bit before Burela, about 22 miles today.

Corned Beef · Oct 16, 2023

It's a beautiful camino and as it is one less populated than the Norte, you have time to appreciate the peace and the view. It's even better when the sun is out.

Caminogoat · Oct 16, 2023

I didn’t actually climb the rock to find out if the chair was comfortable and the view was worth it.

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

Last night I ordered soup and a “small” steak. The waitress told me to order a“small” one instead of “regular “ one. She was right. Here is the photo of the “small” steak and soup. What’s up with that big bowl of soup? They do this in Cantabria and Galicia. You can have as much as you want from this huge bowl.

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

Leaving Burela toward San Ciprian.

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

Ways to San Ciprian.

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

I have never picked anything from a tree or vine except some wild berries. BUT, this was different. A lone survivor from being harvested. All its compatriots are in a wine barrel somewhere. I said: “no more worries about being forgotten because I would love you to death”.

So juicy and sweet!

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

Wild mint.

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

As I was arriving in San Ciprian, I noticed a mass amount of housing complexes, which is rare in small towns in Spain.

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

I struck a conversion with a local man. Among other things he said that the aluminum factory is polluting everything. One can see it’s huge chimney from miles away. I asked him if he meant the dark water in the river, but he said it’s in the air. In fact, I was noticing a strong smell resembling an electrical fire. The man said with a great sadness: “with a progress, pollution came”.

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

Even with more than 40- minute walking, I couldn’t get away from the smell and I was feeling sick to my stomach. I called a cab and that transported me to lovely Viveiro within 20 minutes. The hotel had a lovely room, an Indonesian restaurant next door, and a laundromat across the street. What a welcome sight!

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

The food was good, Viveiro is lovely.

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

I almost died, happily, from this bottle of chili powder. They weren’t kidding about the heat it can generate. I loved it so much, I had to buy a bottle.

VNwalking · Oct 18, 2023

Buen camino, Mera! I'm happy to follow along.

Mera said:
put my shoes back on immediately.

If these guys are the same as the ones in the Pacific, they pack a painful sting, but are not 'poisonous.' They just burn like crazy. As kids we used to pop the bubbles of the ones on the beach, and never got stung by the washed up ones - but in the water is another matter.

Corned Beef · Oct 18, 2023

You are making good progress. Viveiro is a lovely town with the river running through it. Shame about the weather which is moving northwards.

This was Viveiro on 3rd December last year. Much warmer I'd think

Caminogoat · Oct 18, 2023

Corned Beef said:
You are making good progress. Viveiro is a lovely town with the river running through it. Shame about the weather which is moving northwards.

This was Viveiro on 3rd December last year. Much warmer I'd think

Yes, it has been raining on and off for the last 5 days. Did you use an app for this Camino? I didn’t find any. I am just wondering around on Wikiloc and Google.

Corned Beef · Oct 18, 2023

Mera said:
Yes, it has been raining on and off for the last 5 days. Did you use an app for this Camino? I didn’t find any. I am just wondering around on Wikiloc and Google.

I usually use OpenStreetMap but I can't see any specific routes past Viveiro. There is the Ruta del Cantábrico which criss crosses the other routes but that only goes as far as Ladrido. At Ladrido you could take the FEVE train to Ferrol. Ortigueira, a few miles further, has far more connections with Ferrol though.

Camino Natural de la Ruta del Cantábrico

www.mapa.gob.es

Ladrido/Ortigueira is a decision point. Past there the accomodation gets more difficult and the routes less well signposted. Perhaps the others who have done this route this year could jump in with some comments.

Corned Beef · Oct 18, 2023

Just going back to my notes, you can continue from Ortigueira on the Camino de Santo André de Teixido. Map is here but the accommodation issue remains. There is a very nice but pricey AirBnB in Santo André de Teixido.

Camiño do Mar - Camino a San Andrés de Teixido

caminosasanandresdeteixido.gal

When you get to Santo André de Teixido you can follow the Camino in reverse to Ferrol or Neda.

Camiños a Santo André de Teixido - Todas - Google My Maps

CAMIÑOS PRINCIPAIS: 1. Camiño Vello 2. GR 55 – Camiño de Santo André 3. Ruta dos Peiraos 4. Camiño dos Cantís 5. Camiño do Mar CAMIÑOS SECUNDARIOS A. Camiño Vello Alternativo B. Camiño Vello desde Santa Comba C. Camiño de Cedeira polo interior D. Camiño de Santiago dende Ferrol

www.google.com

Caminogoat · Oct 19, 2023

Reluctantly leaving the beautiful Viveiro.

Caminogoat · Oct 19, 2023

Walked variable surfaces. Today’s trail to O Vicedo was tranquil and beautiful. Especially the last 7 miles were so beautiful that I hoped to return someday again. Well that wish came true inadvertently so soon in the evening.

Caminogoat · Oct 19, 2023

Another temptation, but I did not give into it today.

Caminogoat · Oct 19, 2023

I took a break when I arrived in San Roman around 12:40 pm. It’s below that huge cross and right next to the beautiful beach on the above map that shows today’s trail.

Caminogoat · Oct 19, 2023

I left without a breakfast this morning thinking I will get lunch somewhere. Guess what? It’s a rural area with not much to begin with. On top of that all the restaurants in the vicinity were closed, their regular off day. I survived on candies. As I arrived in my final destination around 4 pm, O Vicedo, I had a sinking feeling. The town looked abandoned. No one was around and restaurants looked permanently closed. I started calling hotels and pensions listed on Google. They all said they were closed for two weeks. A lot of places in Spain close for a couple of weeks right after the big holiday on 10/12, the day they celebrate finding America. They claim Spaniards, not Columbus, found America because Spain funded the discovery mission. I found one apartment but they refused to rent it to me just for one night. I found one hotel in San Roman. It’s by the beach that you see on the map above, 8 miles back where I rested around 12:40 pm. Furthermore, it’s in the area where all the restaurants were closed. I had to wait for a store to wake up from the siesta, usually at 5 pm, bought a bunch of foods and called a cab who also needed some time to wake up from her siesta.

VNwalking · Oct 19, 2023

Mera said:
Another temptation, but I did not give into it today.

Wow. Kiwifruit!

Mera said:
Furthermore, it’s in the area where all the restaurants were closed

Oh, geeeeeze.
I hope you got enough to eat in the end, Mera. As well as some food to carry forward.

Caminogoat · Oct 19, 2023

I sat by my backpack waiting for my cab driver to wake up. After being on the road for two weeks with just 2 sets of clothes, by now I look semi homeless. The store patrons kept looking at me as they go in and out, wondering whether they should offer me some food or not. So I stood up and started taking photos.

Caminogoat · Oct 19, 2023

The hotel was a brand new. Lovely and impeccable. I was the only guest in this 14-room boutique hotel. The owner said I could pick any room I wanted for the same price, 85 Euros. After seeing 7 rooms up and down the stairs, I picked this room with a balcony on the second floor.

Caminogoat · Oct 19, 2023

Now I am right back to where I was 4 hours ago looking up that same St. Roman Cross, Prepared my dinner and sat down thinking “ All’s Well That End’s Well”!

Caminogoat · Oct 20, 2023

I woke up yesterday with a tooth/gum pain and my left cheek was slightly swollen. Driven by a guilt, I thought of the grapes I took (a.k.a.stealing) the other day. I ate them without washing: perhaps they were the Grapes of Wrath!
I immediately googled for a dentist in the area. The nearest city where I could find a dentist was Viveiro. I called 5 dentists but couldn’t get a same-day appointment. I took a cab to one of the offices thinking it would be hard to say no to person’s face. To my big surprise, when I explained my situation, the dentist slammed the door on my face, didn’t even bother to say “no way” or “over my dead body”. I am not sure if she was angry because I showed up without an appointment or she thought I was asking for a free treatment. Or there’s something wrong with my face. I walked out thinking some highly educated professionals (regardless of their nationalities) are less sympathetic toward others than general Spanish public I encounter during the Camino. I started calling again and one told me to come in. Another big surprise when I got there was that this office was right across from the hotel I stayed. Do you remember the one that had an Indonesian restaurant on the right and a laundromat across? The office and the laundromat was physically joined together. Wow, the beautiful hotel, not the Camino, provides! After an x-ray, the doctor said my gum infection was not a serious one. He drained it (too much detail?) and prescribed antibiotics. I checked into the same lovely hotel I enjoyed staying so much, and spent the rest of the day walking around the city end to end. Two days ago, I reluctantly left this lovely city without getting to know it better. Now my tooth granted my wish come true. All’s Well That End’s Well! By the way, I hope not but if you are ever in need of a dentist in or near Viveiro, here is the name of the dentist. I have to go back for a follow up today. After that I am traveling to Santiago, leaving the Camino do Mar to another time. It’s been raining for a week every single day (on top of that it’s extremely windy now) since Ribadeo and I need a change of scenery. Perhaps spend a couple of days eating Korean food in Santiago and then head out to Muxia. Thank you!

Corned Beef · Oct 20, 2023

Glad you got your tooth sorted and you've probably made the right decision to take it easy. FEVE will take you to Ferrol where you can get a train to SdC. It's a very pleasant journey especially when the alternative is getting soaked through.

This Camino is underdeveloped as caminos go so it takes a bit more pre-planning if you want to go past Viveiro. But I think it is worth it.

Caminogoat · Oct 20, 2023

Corned Beef said:
Glad you got your tooth sorted and you've probably made the right decision to take it easy. FEVE will take you to Ferrol where you can get a train to SdC. It's a very pleasant journey especially when the alternative is getting soaked through.

This Camino is underdeveloped as caminos go so it takes a bit more pre-planning if you want to go past Viveiro. But I think it is worth it.

Yes, you are exactly right about everything that’s going on here. Especially with hotels closing for 2 weeks, it will be difficult. Thank you!

Canche · Oct 22, 2023

Mera said:
I had been walking the Notrte, but had skipped a lot of segments after Deba. To me Irún to Deba is breathtakingly beautiful and exciting, I enjoy every step. But after Deba, I had walked only my favorite segments. I arrived at the Playa de Peñarronda (4 kilometers before Ribadeo) the day before yesterday. I have not been posting anything since the war between Israel and Palestinians broke out. I had walked feeling somber and sad. I have been and am praying for peace.

Yesterday, I started Camino do Mar. I will post my daily experiences in short sentences for those who never walked this Camino. It’s my first, too. My initial impression is that it is like walking between San Sebastián and Deba but on flat land. It is so beautiful and easy that I never took a break during the first 10 miles or so until I arrived in Rinlo. I used Wikiloc and the Google map. I don’t know if there are any exclusive Camino do Mar apps out there. Does anyone know? This albergue located right after crossing the bridge to Ribadeo is kind of a starting point. When I found a pension room with an ocean view (walked 16.56 miles from the Playa de Peñarronda). I stopped. The only downside is that there is no WiFi. I will post more photos tomorrow when I hopefully find a room with WiFi.

I look forward to your posts as I hope to do that Camino next spring.

Canche · Oct 22, 2023

Mera said:
Yes, it has been raining on and off for the last 5 days. Did you use an app for this Camino? I didn’t find any. I am just wondering around on Wikiloc and Google.

Try Gronze

Corned Beef · Oct 22, 2023

Canche said:
Try Gronze

There doesn't seem to be a separate section for this Camino but some of the comments there led to this

Asociación Camino del Mar - Concello a Concello

CONCELLO A CONCELLO - 2023

www.asocaminodelmar.com

It's in Spanish but you can right click for a translation. There has been recent growth in interest and if you are a foodie, there is a special annual pilgrimage. There is an email address if you want to sign up for details for 2024.

Asociación Camino del Mar - Camino Gastronomico

IV Edición Camino Gastronómico del Mar. Realizaremos tramos de las etapas que componen el Camino del Mar. Al finalizar esos tramos se realizará una degustación de recetas gastronómicas de productos del mar, cada día serán dos preparaciones. Con esta actividad se pretende conjugar distintos valores

www.asocaminodelmar.com

Caminogoat · Oct 22, 2023

Canche said:
I look forward to your posts as I hope to do that Camino next spring.

I had a medical emergency when I reached O Vicedo. I had to go back to Viveiro for treatments. Spent 2 days there and then came to Santiago. I will stay here for a week or so before I fly back home. I have been doing my own Camino in and around Santiago, Wikiloc has many lovely trails in and around Santiago including some parts of Camino Muxia and Finistere. My observation of Camino do Mare: very lovely scenery, lovely locals, not well marked, no dedicated app available but Wikiloc will do, not much Camino infrastructure but hotels are readily available if you can avoid that 2-week closedowns after the big holiday. Hotels were booked until 10/15 and then they close down for their own vacations. It rains a lot in October and November. I got rained on every day for a week. Incidentally, if you pronounce “O vicedo” it sounds like “even if the rain leeks into” . I am a Korean

VNwalking · Oct 22, 2023

If the weather's improving, you might consider going out to walk up Pico Sacra. Near enough to Santiago that there's public transport to where you walk from - Lestedo, on the Sanabres/Invierno. On a fine day I'd be tempted to bus out, walk to the summit, then come back to Santiago along the Camino. It's one of the nicest entries to the city of all the caminos.

Directions from a blog account of the walk:

From the central bus station in Santiago de Compostela, go to the Castromil ticket office and ask for the next departure for Lestedo—it shouldn’t cost more than a couple of euros. Go downstairs to the main hall and hop on the blue-and-yellow Monbus bus (same company, different name), ride for about half an hour (watching the signs carefully), and get off on the side of the highway in Lestedo, a parish of the Boqueixón municipality.

From the bus stop, it’s not hard to find your way—just look up for the mountain and start hiking, generally in a northerly direction (to the left from the highway). There are a couple of signs here and there that will direct you up.

Caminogoat · Oct 22, 2023

VNwalking said:
If the weather's improving, you might consider going out to walk up Pico Sacra. Near enough to Santiago that there's public transport to where you walk from - Lestedo, on the Sanabres/Invierno. On a fine day I'd be tempted to bus out, walk to the summit, then come back to Santiago along the Camino. It's one of the nicest entries to the city of all the caminos.

Directions from a blog account of the walk:

That actually was my plan for tomorrow. For sure I will do this all the more now. Thanks

Caminogoat · Oct 22, 2023

VNwalking said:
If the weather's improving, you might consider going out to walk up Pico Sacra. Near enough to Santiago that there's public transport to where you walk from - Lestedo, on the Sanabres/Invierno. On a fine day I'd be tempted to bus out, walk to the summit, then come back to Santiago along the Camino. It's one of the nicest entries to the city of all the caminos.

Directions from a blog account of the walk:

I agree with you. I did that part in reverse after visiting Mercado de Abastos de Santiago.

VNwalking · Oct 22, 2023

Mera said:
That actually was my plan for tomorrow. For sure I will do this all the more now. Thanks

Wow, fantastic (I hope that link worked...)! Pics and let us know how it went, pretty please. Hoping your tooth feels better....

peregrina2000 · Oct 22, 2023

Mera said:
I will stay here for a week or so before I fly back home. I have been doing my own Camino in and around Santiago, Wikiloc has many lovely trails in and around Santiago including some parts of Camino Muxia and Finistere.

I’m sorry to learn that you had to cut your camino short. Your accounts are always so fun to read! But you seem to have taken this all in stride, good for you, @Mera.

I can suggest two short walks in Santiago itself. One is the Sarela path, which you get to by following the Muxia route till you cross the little river. At that point, the camino goes left, and you go right. It’s a little green oasis a stone’s throw from busy roads and apartment buildings.

The other would be to walk up to the Cidade de Cultura, which is a complex of buildings made of many different materials, with many different angles and curves. My first reaction was that it would be an awfully good spot for skateboarders! Sometimes there are interesting exhibits in one of the buildings. It’s at the top of a hill and one way to get there starts near the church at Sar (also worth a visit, IMHO).

Enjoy your time in Santiago.

Caminogoat · Oct 22, 2023

peregrina2000 said:
I’m sorry to learn that you had to cut your camino short. Your accounts are always so fun to read! But you seem to have taken this all in stride, good for you, @Mera.

I can suggest two short walks in Santiago itself. One is the Sarela path, which you get to by following the Muxia route till you cross the little river. At that point, the camino goes left, and you go right. It’s a little green oasis a stone’s throw from busy roads and apartment buildings.

The other would be to walk up to the Cidade de Cultura, which is a complex of buildings made of many different materials, with many different angles and curves. My first reaction was that it would be an awfully good spot for skateboarders! Sometimes there are interesting exhibits in one of the buildings. It’s at the top of a hill and one way to get there starts near the church at Sar (also worth a visit, IMHO).

Enjoy your time in Santiago.

Yes, I saw these on Wikiloc. Thank you for always being so kind. I always feel like you, VNwalking, and a few others have my back. Thanks

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T07:06:24+0100

I arrived in Madrid on 11/07. I walked some of my favorite spots on Norte before continuing to Camino do Mar from where I left off last year. Does anyone remember Getaria, where restaurants have huge BBQ grills outside and grill everything? I looked forward to eating there, so I made a mad dash from Madrid to Getaria via ALSA (33 Euros with a discount) and taxi (50 Euros from San Sebastián). Sadly, I arrived there on a Thursday when all restaurants were closed I only managed to get some Pinchos at a couple of bars that stayed open. I walked from Getaria to Deba, then Laredo to Noja. I visited an interesting place in Santoña. See these photos.

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T07:13:42+0100

Plaza de Toros in Santoña is worth the visit. It is not very far from where you get off the boat. Turn left, and you will get there in 10 minutes. This magnificent-looking bullfighter was injured on the day the photo was taken and died the next day.

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T07:16:52+0100

A female bullfighter.

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T07:23:57+0100

The mostly paved - road walking from O Vicedo to O Porto Espasante was not that great, but the town of O Porto Espasante was delightful. The town’s only open restaurant served delicious food. The town shared a pet pig named Antón with whom I shared my grapes. A native artist painted houses and residents.

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T07:31:04+0100

Here is Antón.

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T07:35:02+0100

Painted house.

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T07:42:28+0100

More here. It appears I can post only one photo at a time.

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T19:37:27+0100

Let me tell you what happened before I reached San André Teixido. I woke up to a pouring rain. The hotel advised me not to walk between O Porto Espesante and Cariño on a rainy day because I would be walking mainly on the road where cars couldn't see me well due to the heavy rain. They didn't need to persuade me too hard. I hopped into a taxi to Cariño. When I got out of the cab, it was only drizzling, so I headed toward San André Teixido. It was beautiful up to Cabo Ortega (a bit of a detour to see this lighthouse). Then, the trail became steep. The bigger problem was strong winds (I understood the meaning of “Viento del Norte”). I have never encountered such strong winds on any of the Caminos. I understood why there were so many windmills. If you hiked up so much that the windmills ate below your feet, that is quite steep. Remember the CF before Psmpalona? It was like that. It was so cold and windy, my hands were so frozen I couldn't take any photos. Nor did I even think about it. I just wanted reach the town. By the way, I have not met any pilgrims since I started.

Dave · 2024-11-14T21:40:22+0100

I missed your first stretch on the Mar, but I've enjoyed catching up just now. If you're still hunting for gps tracks, mine are updated and available through Cicerone:

Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar guide - To Santiago, Spain

Guidebook to walking the Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar pilgrim routes through northwest Spain. From Ferrol, A Coruna or Ribadeo to Santiago de Compostela.…

www.cicerone.co.uk

Scroll down toward the bottom and click on the Downloads tab. They're organized by stage and you'll see multiple route options included for each.

Dave

Caminogoat · 2024-11-14T22:00:14+0100

Dave said:
I missed your first stretch on the Mar, but I've enjoyed catching up just now. If you're still hunting for gps tracks, mine are updated and available through Cicerone:

Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar guide - To Santiago, Spain

Guidebook to walking the Camino Ingles and Ruta do Mar pilgrim routes through northwest Spain. From Ferrol, A Coruna or Ribadeo to Santiago de Compostela.…

www.cicerone.co.uk

Scroll down toward the bottom and click on the Downloads tab. They're organized by stage and you'll see multiple route options included for each.

Dave

Hi Dave,
I bought your book in 2023 and studied before the Csmino. Thanks!

Dave · 2024-11-14T22:44:18+0100

It's funny--the last time I was on the Mar, it was near the windmills en route to Teixido that I encountered my only pilgrims of the trip. Three of us, all walking individually, all happened to converge at the viewpoint there at the same moment. I hope you come across one or two as well. Giulia, the host at Caborredondo, is out there, but she may be ahead of you.

Are you planning to stay on the coast all the way around to Ferrol, or to take the direct, inland approach?

Clay7011 · Tuesday at 4:30 PM

Planning on walking Norte-Primitivo starting about June 10, 2025. Are the albergues very busy at that time and also what will the weather be? I did this the end of August and September of 2017 and...

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