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Camino del Salvador/Primitivo Starting mid March 2016

Gerry Sinclair

CdnDadio
Time of past OR future Camino
March/April 2016
Looking for general thoughts, input and all around comments. I have a month and would like make it an easy go rather than "blasting" through the Camino Frances. Like I said in a previous thread, I want a chance to smell the roses..... or the whatever.
Thanks for the help
Buen Camino!!
Gerry
 
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Hi Gerry,
Great combination of Camino, the Salvador and Primitivo. i walked this way beginning in june this year. Hope the weather is kind to you in March. Salvador is well marked, very rugged and beautiful. If you have a month to walk, you may be able to fit in a Fisterra/Muxia trip as well.
buen camino
Aidan
 
Looking for general thoughts, input and all around comments. I have a month and would like make it an easy go rather than "blasting" through the Camino Frances. Like I said in a previous thread, I want a chance to smell the roses..... or the whatever.
Thanks for the help
Buen Camino!!
Gerry

Hi, Gerry,
I second the sentiment that this is a beautiful route. Starting mid March might be dicey, though. My guess is that there is likely to be a lot of snow left and still the possibility of more storms. Hope you will keep track of the weather and play it safe! Buen camino, Laurie
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
Looking for general thoughts, input and all around comments. I have a month and would like make it an easy go rather than "blasting" through the Camino Frances. Like I said in a previous thread, I want a chance to smell the roses..... or the whatever.
Thanks for the help
Buen Camino!!
Gerry

Gerry:

I walked this route the first week in April 2013. Somewhere in this section I posted pictures of some of the 3-4 meter snow drifts I encountered. That said, weather is different every year. Here are a few.

Joe
 

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Yes, Aidan, that's my plan, finishing off this endeavor with a trip to the end of the earth and Laurie, the weather is in the for front.
Thanks for the input both of you.
Buen Camino!!
Gerry
 
Gerry: You might consider the VdlP and Camino Sanabres from Salamanca if there is a lot of snow in March on the Salvador and Primativo. I walked It this year starting in early March. It took 20 days but I walked several 30+km. days so you could take longer. It was beautiful and lots of solitude - I only met pilgrims in Zamora and after Orense. Salamanca and Zamora are beautiful cities and worth a day of exploring. I found the locals to be very friendly and helpful often stopping me to chat because they were surprised to see a single woman walking alone at that time of year. Freezing at morning but warmed up nicely during the day and luckily only one day of rain walking into Santiago.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Looking for general thoughts, input and all around comments. I have a month and would like make it an easy go rather than "blasting" through the Camino Frances. Like I said in a previous thread, I want a chance to smell the roses..... or the whatever.
Thanks for the help
Buen Camino!!
Gerry

So, Gerry, I can't tell if you are planning to spend a month on the Salvador/Primitivo, or whether you plan to start on the Francés and then turn off at León. Not that it matters, but the suggestion about the Vdlp would be more complicated if you will be on the Francés. BTW, I think the Vdlp idea would be very nice as well. Buen camino, Laurie
 
Hello brave Gerry, I did this route year 2014, starting from Vitoria, city in the Camino de Bayona. The Albergue in Vitoria (the new one close to the ancient Cathedral) is really a gem and put the smile on your face to start the Camino. Then from Vitoria to Burgos across beautiful areas (Puerto de Segorbe is one of them). At Burgos you might be lucky and enjoy the impressive Albergue, the Cathedral just next door...
Then Burgos to Leon in the Frances and in Leon up north to Oviedo, Camino del Salvador, one of the prettiest I ever walked with El Primitivo following next. The first half of Salvador (to Puerto de Pajares) is absolutely delicious with first class marking. Then Oviedo (bof!) opens for you El Primitivo, and I would recommend the variant Ruta de los Hospitales, alone totally alone in the mountains, only horses and livestock and ... our Apostol. El Primitivo is a piece of art, practically all the way up and down (oh yes!) Then Melide and a couple of days to cope with the Pilgrim motorway to Santiago.
All this can be perfectly be done in one month, even reaching the end of Earth (by the way is in Portugal not in Fisterre!).
Accommodation is not that bad and always cheap with decent hostals/pensions at 20€ per night/person, hence affordable. Avoid Albergue de Pajares, it is a shame. And enjoy Albergue de Buiza, at the end of first day in Salvador. An old school totally refurbished, I enjoyed 20+ beds for me alone !
Amigo del Camino, be happy, as these are among the most wonderful Camino de Santiago you can walk in Spain...
 
Gerry: You might consider the VdlP and Camino Sanabres from Salamanca if there is a lot of snow in March on the Salvador and Primativo. I walked It this year starting in early March. It took 20 days but I walked several 30+km. days so you could take longer. It was beautiful and lots of solitude - I only met pilgrims in Zamora and after Orense. Salamanca and Zamora are beautiful cities and worth a day of exploring. I found the locals to be very friendly and helpful often stopping me to chat because they were surprised to see a single woman walking alone at that time of year. Freezing at morning but warmed up nicely during the day and luckily only one day of rain walking into Santiago.
Hi Laura, What date in March did you leave Leon and did you run into closed albergues along the Salvador? I am looking at some days of 30+k which doesn't concern me nor does the cold or rain. Thanks again for your input here.
Buen Camino!!
Gerry
 
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Looking for general thoughts, input and all around comments. I have a month and would like make it an easy go rather than "blasting" through the Camino Frances. Like I said in a previous thread, I want a chance to smell the roses..... or the whatever.
Thanks for the help
Buen Camino!!
Gerry

Gerry:

You might want to consider one of the two itineraries I am considering.

I will be starting in Madrid on March 31st and walking the Madrid to Sahagun, then when I reach Leon deciding on whether to walk the Salvador/Primitivo or stay on the Frances until Ponferrada and then jumping to the Invierno.

Madrid/Salvador/Primitivo or Madrid/Frances/Invierno

Ultreya,
Joe
 
Gerry:

You might want to consider one of the two itineraries I am considering.

I will be starting in Madrid on March 31st and walking the Madrid to Sahagun, then when I reach Leon deciding on whether to walk the Salvador/Primitivo or stay on the Frances until Ponferrada and then jumping to the Invierno.

Madrid/Salvador/Primitivo or Madrid/Frances/Invierno

Ultreya,
Joe
Thanks for the suggestion Joe. I am set on the Primitivo right now and can't see that changing. (I want at some point to do the entire Frances) The only variable for me is checking the weather once I get to Leon and making a "Salvador" decision then and making my way to Oviedo, either way.
Buen Camino!!
Gerry
 
Hi Laura, What date in March did you leave Leon and did you run into closed albergues along the Salvador? I am looking at some days of 30+k which doesn't concern me nor does the cold or rain. Thanks again for your input here.
Buen Camino!!
Gerry

Gerry: I walked the Salvador/Primitivo in October and the Sanabres (off the Via de la Plata from Salamanca) starting in early March. I didn't walk the Salvador in March so I don't know the status of the albergues. There is a high likelihood of deep snow on the Salvador and I would assume that some of the albergues will be closed. Ender, the local Spanish man that way marked the Salvador, has a website and guide on the Salvador. You might check with him or Peregrina2000 - she is in contact with him. Link to his guide:
http://www.slideshare.net/caminodelsalvador/guia-ingles-del-camino-del-salvador

Due to the high likelihood of snow and closed albergues on the Salvador, I would like to suggest another alternative - the Sanabres. You would head south from Astorga (2 days after Leon) on the Via de la Plata (about 3 days) to Granja de Moreruela then head west on the Camino Sanabres. There are mountains but you will have road alternatives if there is heavy snow. I found the Sanabres to be very quiet and beautiful. Starting in early March I saw only one other pilgrim until Orense (3 days before Santiago). All of the albergues were open.
 
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Just saw statistics that show how incredibly the traffic has increased on the Salvador. Five years ago, 95 total night stays registered by the albergues. This year, 3,000! Sounds like crunch time on the Salvador.

http://www.lne.es/caudal/2015/12/03/albergues-peregrinos-pasan-96-3000/1850240.html


I walked the Salvador this year in early July. I was expecting not to see anybody else but that really wasn't the case. Sometimes there were 10-12 in an albergue, though sometimes it was just me and my walking buddy. But we knew there were plenty of Peregrinos around. We even spoke to many locals that were opening new bars along the route because of the increase of pilgrims! One of which opened the week we got there (in Cascontes). The albergue in Pola de Lena was completo! (lucky we got a bed before).

Most (nearly all) of these pilgrims were Spanish, either not wanting to do the Frances because of numbers or looking for something different. Me and a Dutch girl who had walked from home (and me from Geneva) were the only non-Spanish we met. It looks like it is becoming popular with the Spanish. (When I was in France and on the Frances and Primitivo I found most non-Spanish pilgrims had never heard of the Salvador)

Saying that I am going back in 2016. The Salvador/Primitivo was stunning!

Happy Christmas

Davey
 
When I walked in April 2013, I never saw another Pilgrim. This is a great Camino for someone who only has a week to walk. The Salvador offers the same benefits as walking the last 100 km's with its' own Compostela and credential, without the crowds. If you only have three weeks add on the Primitivo.

It does not get much better than that:).

Ultreya,
Joe
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Planning to walk the Camino de San Salvador in late March 2016.

The only thing holding me back are the weather conditions. I have never hiked in such weather. What type of hiking gear do you suggest for this time of the year?

I would like to get to Oviedo by the 25th March for the display of the Sudarium of Oviedo.

Happy Christmas

Andrea
 
Planning to walk the Camino de San Salvador in late March 2016.

The only thing holding me back are the weather conditions. I have never hiked in such weather. What type of hiking gear do you suggest for this time of the year?

I would like to get to Oviedo by the 25th March for the display of the Sudarium of Oviedo.

Happy Christmas

Andrea

Andrea:

No one can predict the weather conditions you will encounter at that time. We can provide you with our experience. You can also consider historical weather data.

That said, I would recommend you read through the Salvador threads for suggestions and make an on the ground decision when you get to Leon.

This is a great walk but conditions can make it more challenging.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
Planning to walk the Camino de San Salvador in late March 2016.

The only thing holding me back are the weather conditions. I have never hiked in such weather. What type of hiking gear do you suggest for this time of the year?

I would like to get to Oviedo by the 25th March for the display of the Sudarium of Oviedo.

Happy Christmas

Andrea
Hi Andrea,

When do you plan on leaving Leon? I should be arriving in Leon on March 18th and depending on when I arrive, leaving for Oviedo on that day or the 19th. I'm planning on 4 to 6 days to Oviedo and should arrive the 23rd or 24th.

FYI &........ Buen Camino!!
Gerry
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Hi Gerry, I am planning to start walking a few days after you. But I intend to make the walk in four days.

Buen Camino!

Andrea
 
Lots of good info provided here already, but I'll just put my two cents worth of thoughts in...

In 2014 I walked the Salvador/Primitivo/Muxia/Finisterre during late February/early March, in about three weeks. Really. Multiple 50km+ days, and two short trips by car (where kindly old men offered to drive me down a mountainous path during heavy storms; I never sought help but they offered). As you are going in mid-March you might have more lenient conditions than I did...maybe.

Weather/Conditions: It was generally -5 to +10 degrees Celsius from Leon to Oviedo to Fonsagrada (the first town after crossing into Galicia). After that the weather warmed up and cleared up considerably, up to 20 degrees C and sunny all the time at the coast. Weather was anything from sunny and windy to blizzards and thunderstorms. On the Salvador I had up to waist deep snow in certain sections, and in other places in the mountains I was walking through ankle-deep water (from snowmelt). At the highest points the path was covered in snow which was covered in a layer of ice, creating dangerous conditions where a slip could mean a slide down hundreds of metres. Also, mud everywhere.

Albergues: (Salvador) They were open (some by request). I had counted on the family restaurant in Poladura de la Tercia to be open, but it wasn't, so I went relatively hungry on that night. I had to ask for the albergue in La Robla to be opened for me. (Primitivo) This was tricky, because some were unlocked but unmanned. One albergue in Fonsagrada was closed and locked, and I had to get a local to phone the hospitalero to come open it. In general I was lucky to be able to access the albergues, and if they were locked then I may have had a much more unpleasant experience.

Time: Salvador took me 3 days (due to an unexpected drive), was planning 4. Primitivo took me 11 days. Muxia + Finisterre took 3 days. I took a day each to sightsee in Oviedo, Finisterre and Santiago. I was not in a rush at all but I tend to walk fast and for long stretches at a time without stopping.

Company: I was alone on the Salvador. There was one other person who walked on the Primitivo at the same time I did. Being nearly untravelled during winter/early Spring, locals seem more friendly/hospitable. Besides the free rides, I also got free food from a restaurant owner, free advice from a few people and lots of hellos and pleasant greetings from all kinds of people. I actually found that as soon the Primitivo ended (at the Frances) locals were less friendly, as traffic increased substantially from all the other pilgrims.

Experience: Absolutely fantastic! I chose the Salvador + Primitivo because they were less travelled and less seen. The scenery was gorgeous, whether it was snow covered or warm and sunny. The more dangerous sections were...interesting but navigable with some thought and care, but those sections were very few and far in between. Overall, an experience I will not forget.

Buen Camino,
Fidel
 
Good Morning Everyone,
I plan to start the Salvador, March 19th from Leon dependant on weather. Does anyone have information on the amount of snow currently on the Salvador?
Thanks in advance & Buen Camino!
Gerry
 
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I think the best thing to do is post on the Camino del Salvador Facebook page in a few days. But for now, I remembered that there is a ski resort near the Puerto de Pajares, where the Salvador passes. Its website gives information on snow conditions. http://www.valgrande-pajares.net/partenieve

Forecast is for heavy snow tomorrow.
Thanks Laurie!! I'm learning something new everyday!!!
 
Snow line for the coming week is as low as 500mts some days, then up to over 2000 by the weekend. This from aemet predictions for regions 'Asturias' read last night.
A useful website as it gives 7 days ahead
 
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Thanks again Laurie!! It looks like a small bus trip after Buiza may have to happen. Do you know how that affects getting a Compostela for the Camino del Salavador? Although this is not critical for me, I thought I would ask.

Gerry

From Buiza, you would have to get out to Villasimpliz to get a bus that goes up and down the N-630. Looks like there is one bus a day which leaves La Robla at 9:20 and goes all the way along the N-630 and arrives in Oviedo at 10:50. Here's where the Salvador splits from the route to Villasimpliz, in front of Buiza's church.

If you see the snow situation being manageable when you get to the Puerto de Pajares (the mountain pass before the town of Pajares), you could get off there and start walking. Or you could wait till the town of Pajares -- from there, the Camino route goes down to San Miguel and then through some very pretty little places. The other place to possibly get off would be Puente de los Fierros, which is a little before Campomanes and has a quite lovely off-road walk through Herías into Campomanes. Worst case scenario would be getting off in Campomanes, where I think the risk of snow will be nil.

I don't know the answer about the Salvadorana (that's what they call the "certificate" for the Salvador).

Fingers crossed for you, Laurie
 

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Thanks again Laurie!! It looks like a small bus trip after Buiza may have to happen. Do you know how that affects getting a Compostela for the Camino del Salavador? Although this is not critical for me, I thought I would ask.

Gerry

Gerry:

Buiza to Puerto de Pajares is the most difficult part of this walk, especially in inclement conditions. I am not sure how close Pasado-el-Embrujo is to this section but that looked like a lot of snow. If you do decide to walk, one item I would recommend is a pair of trax. I encountered 9-12 foot frozen drifts (some pictures in an earlier post) and they were near impossible to climb. Everyone has a different degree of hiking experience. Therefore, I would never tell someone not to do anything. Just make sure you have all the information you need to make an informed decision.

I still enjoyed this walk very much.

Ultreya,
Joe
 
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Thanks again Laurie!! It looks like a small bus trip after Buiza may have to happen. Do you know how that affects getting a Compostela for the Camino del Salavador? Although this is not critical for me, I thought I would ask.

Gerry

Gerry,
Ender reports on his Facebook page that the snow is mainly between Poladura and the pass at Pajares. (Joe, the Posada de Embrujo is the casa rural in Poladura). Ender is going to walk this stage this week and will report back. Hope you find a safe way, Gerry.
 
Gerry:

Just to give you some perspective. There was no snow on the ground in Poladura when I walked the first week in April 2013 and still big drifts in the passes.

345 is picture from Albergue in Poladura
351 just before the pass with the cross
358 one of several streams of run off
360 ankle deep or higher mud after Puerto de Pajares

I still loved this walk. It would be so much better under different conditions.

Ultreya,
Joe
 

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Ideal pocket guides for during & after your Camino. Each weighs only 1.4 oz (40g)!
Gerry,
Ender reports on his Facebook page that the snow is mainly between Poladura and the pass at Pajares. (Joe, the Posada de Embrujo is the casa rural in Poladura). Ender is going to walk this stage this week and will report back. Hope you find a safe way, Gerry.
Hello can you please tell me how to search for Ender Facebook account? The facebook link? Thank you very much Andre
 
Hello can you please tell me how to search for Ender Facebook account? The facebook link? Thank you very much Andre
Hi, Andre,
It's https://www.facebook.com/caminodelsalvador/?ref=ts&fref=ts

There's a recently posted video there pointing out an alternative way to make it to the Cross, but you have to be pretty aware of the route to be able to make much sense out of it. The narrator repeats many times that the traditional route up to the cross is very dangerous. Once on the other side, though, he says it's fine.

I wouldn't try it in these conditions. Buen camino, Laurie
 
Thank you vero much. We (3 of us) Have only few days. Salvador seemed a good choice, but it is better To wait when it will be warmer :). Now I look into Few legs on Levante or Finisterre. Best Andreina
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.

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