Camino del Norte - March/April 2013

[AubreyL]

Hello!
I've been lurking on this discussion board for several months. I bought my ticket to Madrid about four months ago and now that it's actually 2013 am in the serious planning phases of my camino. First, I was curious to see if any of you were planning to go in March/April 2013? Have any of you walked during this time? I'm hoping there wont' be too many people but I am also hoping I will meet some fellow travelers. I don't necessarily want to walk the entire route completely alone

I will arrive in Madrid on March 21st and am planning to leave from Irun on March 23rd. I welcome any ideas, suggestions, anecdotes, or really anything related to walking the northern route in the spring. I think ideally I would have preferred going in May but the only time I could really sneak away from work for over a month was in the spring. Links to personal blogs or photos would also be great! You can private message me if you'd like.
Thanks!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Check the Calendar; there is someone leaving Irun on March 21.

Have fun, and buen camino!

 

[AubreyL]

Great! Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to check out the calendar and submit my dates as well. I'm also curious if there's anyone out there from Alaska (Anchorage area specifically) who has done the camino that would be willing to talk with me over coffee or beer before I head out. I'd love to talk with someone and see pictures of the area I'm traveling before I go. Thanks!

 

[Sedona2012]

Hi Aubry,

It looks like we will be walking the Norte about the same time. How are you getting from MAdrid to Irun?

Buen Camino!
Bobbie

Great! Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to check out the calendar and submit my dates as well. I'm also curious if there's anyone out there from Alaska (Anchorage area specifically) who has done the camino that would be willing to talk with me over coffee or beer before I head out. I'd love to talk with someone and see pictures of the area I'm traveling before I go. Thanks!

 

[AubreyL]

Hi Bobbie!
I will be taking either the bus or the train. I haven't decided yet. The Renfe trains go from the Chamartin Station in Madrid to Irun. Renfe estimates the travel time at 7 hours and 45 minutes and costs 47 Euros. Alsa buses also run from Madrid to Irun. It looks like it costs 36 Euros to take the bus and takes about 6 hours and 45 minutes.
http://www.renfe.es
http://www.alsa.es
I've ridden both trains and buses in Spain and have had good experiences with both. When will you be headed to Irun? Feel free to message me. I'd love to hear more about your trip and maybe share information on albergues, etc.
Aubrey

 

[Bob67]

Hello AubreyL,
Fellow Alaskan here(Ketchikan). I walked the Camino del Norte 3 years ago, starting the last week of Feb. I started in Santander and walked to Santiago de Compostela. Then went by bus/train to Irun and walked to Santander. The reason I did this was because of weather.
I simply LOVED the entire Camino del Norte, even the cold rainy weather, especially the first month. Good luck on your Camino. I wish I could chat you up over a beer or coffee, but not to be. Que te vaya bien y con Dios Roberto

 

[AubreyL]

Hello AubreyL,
Fellow Alaskan here(Ketchikan). I walked the Camino del Norte 3 years ago, starting the last week of Feb. I started in Santander and walked to Santiago de Compostela. Then went by bus/train to Irun and walked to Santander. The reason I did this was because of weather.
I simply LOVED the entire Camino del Norte, even the cold rainy weather, especially the first month. Good luck on your Camino. I wish I could chat you up over a beer or coffee, but not to be. Que te vaya bien y con Dios Roberto

Of course you loved the rain! You're from Ketchikan!!
I'm originally from NW Washington so I love the rain too. I might have to travel down to Ketchikan in the near future for work so I'll be sure to let you know if that happens. I would love to talk with you. If you have any recommendations please send me a message. I'd love any and all information you'd like to send my way. Thanks!

 

[AlaskansAbroad]

Hello Aubrey, we can help you out with the being from Anchorage part of your request, but unfortunately not the part about having done the Camino before, as we are looking at 2014 for our first. We would love to follow your adventure and would be more than happy to buy you a Moose's Tooth beer when you return, to hear about your experience firsthand. Kevin & Robin

 

[lettinggo]

Hi Aubreyl

I walked from Irun mid March last year and arrived at Santiago a month later.
The Northe is a beautiful coastal walk which I experienced as different etappes.
From Irun to Bilbao you will experience up and downhills and when I walked some stretches was challenging due to mud, but over all it was marked well and I only lost my way a few times which I believe is part of any Camino.
Lodging was a bit more expensive than I had hoped due to being somewhat off season.
I found that the albergues opened up around Easter which will fall 31 March this year.
After Bilbao there are some wonderful passages along the coast which I found to be a 'secret' gem of Europe, but there are also long stretches walking along the paved automobile road.
This is the major difference between the Frances and Northe in my opinion.
As the Northe is less traveled than Frances people seemed to pay more attention to the pilgrims on route. There are many local Camino de Santiago groups with offices who will help with information, as well as the albergues have good maps for the forthcoming days.

As I had good time I took a bus in Unquera up to Potes at Picos de Europa and stayed two days at the albergue there. I was the only pilgrim at the albergue which hold about 75 beds.
It was a nice break after some longer walking days and also where I decided to get on the Primitivo down to Palais de Rei on the Frances.
The bus taking you back to Unquera cost about 3 Euro.

At Villaviscosa you start a souther route through the mountains and it was exactly the change I needed although the challenges I faced at the beginning of the walk faded in comparison to some of the peaks you are passing.
But with shorter days and more albergues open I found the exchange well worth it and can recommend it.
I did meet pilgrims on my way as well as I spend nights alone at times.
It is remarkable to arrive at a small town, walk to the local bar and ask for the key to the albergue, and be told just to return it next morning at the steps to the bar.
The trust and generosity which can only inspire.

One thing I found amazing about the road was the morning fog near the end of the Primitivo.
Thick as I ever experienced it. Reflective bands around the legs can be recommended and the only place there was a little snow was near Hospital at high altitude.

Once on the Frances it is only a few days to SdC and the solitude was exchanged with what felt like a crowded walk. Full albergues. Groups formed weeks ago. A different feeling.

Guides to Northe can be sparse and I bought a spanish called Camino Northe, Anaya Touring Club publish it.
Even with my limited spanish the main information, location, facilities, cost, phone numbers was easily extracted. And it is very small compared with those I saw other pilgrims use.

It was a bit more expensive than I used when I walked the full Frances, so plan accordingly.

Oh yes. One thing. Always carry a powder soup and some bread if you can.
Some places are remote with little shopping possibilities, and a little food can make all the difference.

Buen Camino

 

[AubreyL]

Thanks lettinggo for the great information! I am getting SO excited! I planned my stages based on which albergues are open year-round. Do you think the albergue information on gronze.com is to be trusted? I was also having a difficult time finding open albergues between San Sebastian and Bilbao. I need to look at that section again and possibly see if I can find other lodging so I won't have to walk so many miles in one day. I'm guessing that walking from Ziortza to Bilbao (around 30 miles) probably is not really plausible, right? That being said I'm in good shape and and do a lot of mountain running so maybe if really pressed I can do a couple really long days. I guess I'll just have to see how it goes. I'd prefer not to push my luck though.

In terms of clothing it seems like in March/April it will be relatively warm (in comparison to Alaska) with lots of rain and probably some colder places up high. I'm thinking of bringing my good rain coat and two thick Smartwool long sleeve shirts. Will that offer enough warmth? On the flip side, I'm also going to have a hard time resisting jumping in the ocean in the sections along the coast. Will it be too cold for swimming that time of year? Is it worth it to bring a swimsuit?

You also mentioned that the Norte costs a bit more in the off season. I'm currently budgeting $50 US a day. Do you think that will be adequate? I'm sure there will be days when I spend less and days when I spend more based on the availability of lodging.

Have you posted any pictures online? I would love to see them. There's a new guide book out on the Camino del Norte which I have ordered. I'm hoping I'll get it in the mail today or tomorrow! Also, who stamps your sello in the really small towns where there's no hospitalero at the albergue? Do you need to get it stamped every day? One final question. What made you decide to do the Primitivo? I am still tentatively planning to follow the Norte to Ribadeo and down from there. However, I would love to hear more about choosing one route over the other. I just saw a slideshow for the Primitivo on youtube and that made me really want to take that route. I really like the idea of sticking to the coast for as long as possible though. Too many decisions

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hola Aubrey,
In reply to your question about sellos:- almost anywhere will be pleased to stamp your credencial Many cafe/bars have their own sello, also tourist offices and town halls (ayuntamiento). One stamp a day is not essential at the start, apart from being a record of your pilgrimage but at least one a day is essential for the last 100kms to prove you have walked for your Compostela. We made sure to get a stamp from our starting point and managed a stamp per day from then on. We did meet a pilgrim who had found it difficult between Bilbao and Santander, but he may not have realised how many places actually have sellos early on. (Our experience is only Santander west).

The Primitivo:- It may be easy in April or snow may make it risky. If you want to take that route then turn south after Ribadasella through Villaviciosa, down to Oviedo and on to La Espina. Check the weather forecasts and with the locals. If in doubt turn north again to the Norte, reaching the coast west Of Gijon and Aviles. The snow level warning needs to be over 2000mts as the passes go over 1300mts in places.
Buen Camino

 

[Mpfreebird]

Hi Aubrey,

My husband and I will be riding the camino del norte starting in April. We want to avoid Semana Santa since we are on bikes and don't want to risk "no room at the inn." Otherwise we would start end of March as well. We plan on going from Madrid to Pamplona by train and then starting from Pamplona on bikes to Irun and onward. My father passed away a few weeks ago and some of his favorite memories come from his youth in the 50's in Pamplona; so, we start there for him.

I am curious to know which new guide book you are refering to. When I did the Camino frances in 1995 I started with the Confraterinity of St James book and quickly added a spanish guide used by the majority of the pilgrams. I feel it is always a good idea to start with something in hand, so I am curious about your find to see if it the best to start with.

Maybe we will see you along the way. Might pass you, might not. But keep your eyes out for a crazy blond American lady and an even crazier brasilian guy riding mountain bikes.

Buen camino.

MP

 

[MikeJS]

Aubrey

You can see lots of photos and some other details on my blog about places to stay and the route (http://mikesroaming.blogspot.co.uk/2012 ... chive.html) from my Camino Norte last Sept/Oct.

There is a good albergue guide issued by the local tourist offices (well as good as they get as all of them seem to have various errors!). That said you can get a good room with private facilities for about 30 euros a day or less in most places. The most we walked in any one day was about 40kms. Often found that we walked further than planned as the intended stop was either too early in the days walk or not worth staying at.

 

[Tia Valeria]

We have just bought the new Cicerone guide to the Northern Caminos written by Laura and Dave (of this forum).
It is excellent for planning and thinking through walking, especially if considering moving from the Norte to the Primitivo etc.
For more detailed route directions, accomodation, distances etc the CSJ guides are IMHO necessary for at least the Primitivo. There are places where it gives alternative, safe, directions for bad weather which are not in other guides or on-line type maps.
See CSJ Guides to Spain and look at Los Caminos del Norte A (1 & 2) and F.

There are some on-line CSJ updates while newer updated books are being prepared.

 

[lettinggo]

Hi Aubrey

When I read your thoughts about San Sebastian and Bilbao you hit it right on the nail, where I had troubles last year.
The area is sparse with options and on route I was told that there is a place which one can stay at at Morga. It is a few kilometers of the Camino to the north just after San Esteban de Gerekiz.
It would cut the distance into two better distanced days at around 25 km each.
40+ km at this early stage can mean a lot of physical trouble in the days to come.
When I arrived, without calling ahead as I walked with no phone, I found the place fully occupied by a spanish school class. It was late afternoon and I would not be able to walk the full distance, so I had to take the bus to Bilbao. No shame in that. A kind man I meet on the Frances said that probably the pilgrims before us also accepted a ride with a horse if it was offered to them.
The phone number to Morga is (was March 2012) 944911746. Maybe you can use this in your planning, but I would advice you to not go to fast at the beginning for two reasons. The area before Bilbao is through very nice woods and it changes after. Secondly.. first week I believe should be without the stress a 40+ km can do.

About cloth the main thing to think about is to stay dry.
Your body will generate more heat that you need. three layers. Inner: smartwool/moreno, second: Fleece, Third: water proof shell. (unless you bought it, I would have one long sleeve and one short)

Buy a cheap swimming suite ( which you can throw away if needed).
Weather is unpredictable. You may have very nice weather. No matter what it will be a welcomed change from the clima you normally have in Alaska in March.
Spain can be very hot .

On the Frances my experience is that the average cost at albergues is 7-9 euro.
On the Northe, at this time a year, you have to stay at Youth Hostels at times (In Bilbao f.eks) and they are around 20 euro.
Your average daily spending of 50US (37 euro) will allow you to comfortably complete the camino imo.

The plilgrim pass can be purchased at any tourist information on the way, as well as they can stamp your pass. Else many hostels/hotels/albergues/bars/private persons! have their own cello which they gladly will stamp.
To get the compostela at SdC you need to 'prove' the last 100 km, but most pilgrims collect stamps on they way and if the pass fills up you can get another for free to continue your 'stamp collection'.

I have to correct myself from saying that I decided to ge on the Primitivo at Picos de Europa, but thats where I started thinking about it.
I had met a pilgrim, coming the other way, and I like what he had to say about the primitivo.
I think I actually decided just before Villaviciosa. I felt that I wanted to get more into nature compared with paved road.
Maybe you dont have to decide now?
You write you like mountain runs.
Read a little about both Caminos and decide later
Once you have to decide your body have something to say as well as the pilgrims you have meet.
( I think time wise both ways are equal, if you have a return ticket)

One advice here to finish the reply.
Try stay at Güemes at Ernesto's place.
It is a something special.

Do feel free to ask more questions.
If my experiences can aid you and your Camino, it only brings back the core of what the Camino can be like.

You can be lost.
You can be hungry.
You can be tired.
You can be thirsty.

Never be more than two at the time.

Buen camino.

(Edit. Semana Santa is Easter in Spanish as a reply referred to)

 

[Sharni]

Hola, I am following this thread with interest as I will be on the Norte in mid April, but will be leaving it at Santander and heading south onto the Camino Vadiniense which joins up with the Camino Frances just before Leon where we will continue to SDC. If anyone has done this, your thoughts would be appreciated. Cheers

 

[AubreyL]

Hi Aubry,

It looks like we will be walking the Norte about the same time. How are you getting from MAdrid to Irun?

Buen Camino!
Bobbie

Great! Thanks for the info. I'll be sure to check out the calendar and submit my dates as well. I'm also curious if there's anyone out there from Alaska (Anchorage area specifically) who has done the camino that would be willing to talk with me over coffee or beer before I head out. I'd love to talk with someone and see pictures of the area I'm traveling before I go. Thanks!

Hi Bobbie,
Just a quick update. I have been trying to decide between taking the bus or train from Madrid and was leaning towards the bus due to cost and trip length. However, I checked the renfe site again today and saw that they are offering a few different promo deals. When I previously checked tickets they were 47 Euros. When I checked today I saw the promo deals (one way ticket is 33 Euros) and noticed that the Alvia train makes the trip in 5 hours and 30 minutes which makes riding the train faster and cheaper than the bus. Woohoo! I'm not sure how long these promo deals last but I figured I should just buy my ticket now and be done with it, so that's what I did.
Have you set dates for you trip yet?
Aubrey

 

[wendysulda]

Hey all
well i have been following this and I wanted to put my hand up . I will be starting in Le Puy in March and then on to Del Norte. So if you see a lone gal trudging along at the speed of .....a snail. Just honk and I will move to the side. I wil lmore than likely have my tent with me. (I snore and not real comofortable sleeping around strangers) LOng Long story. LOL SO I guess I hope to see you all soon.
Bye the way I would love to hear about living in Alaska sounds cool.
Oh the tale we will be able to tell. :lol:

 

[AubreyL]

When are you starting Wendy? I was hoping our paths would cross so I could tell you all about living in Alaska but I'm guessing that if you're starting from Le Puy I will already probably already be well into the Norte when you get to Spain. I'm starting in Irun on the 24th of March. I can't wait!

 

[gyro]

Hello there,
Just to say "hello". the name is Gyro - an elderly Scot - and I will be starting from Irun on march 22. I will be the old guy who is lumbering along the paths, very, very slowly. I hope that we will cross paths on the way.
Buen Camino
Gyro

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi Gyro - I'm starting Irun on the 24th and just walking to Llanes, so may possibly catch you up by then if you are taking it easy.
Look out for a lanky Londoner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_ ... /lightbox/
Aubrey - hope to meet you as well
best wishes, tom

 

[AubreyL]

Hey Tom,
It looks like we're starting on the same day. I hope to see you in Irun. Will you be staying in the albergue?
Aubrey

 

[peregrino_tom]

Aubrey
According the local government sponsored guide 'The Northern Ways to Santiago' (2012/3), the Irun association albergue doesn't open until the 31st March. The brand new Cicerone guide doesn't note this (which is a bit slack if it's true).
I tried to book the Youth hostel (Martindozenea) on-line but it came back with no vacancies for the 23rd.
So I've booked a room at hotel Aitana. I only got the Cicerone guide yesterday and I see it has a couple of pensiones listed. Let me know if you want the details of these and I'll send them to you in a PM.
Cheers, tom
PS I think on another post Evanlow uploaded a PDF of the Northern Ways accommodation guide. So might be worth hunting that down if you haven't seen it

 

[Dave]

Hi there,

According to the albergue's facebook page, it will re-open on March 22--just in time!
http://www.facebook.com/albergueirun

Dave

 

[AubreyL]

Thanks for the info Dave. I emailed back in early February and they said that they usually open around Easter but there isn't really a fixed date every year. Glad to see they're opening on the 22nd this year. Phew!

 

[gyro]

Hi Gyro - I'm starting Irun on the 24th and just walking to Llanes, so may possibly catch you up by then if you are taking it easy.
Look out for a lanky Londoner
http://www.flickr.com/photos/peregrino_ ... /lightbox/
Aubrey - hope to meet you as well
best wishes, tom

Dear Tom,
A week to go for you, Tom. I leave on Wednesday. First cervesa is on me.
Gyro

 

[peregrino_tom]

Gyro - sounds like a plan. Hasta luego :arrow:

 

[gyro]

And we are off: Started 21st March with a few km along the route.
Now in San Sebastian. The route is demanding, following nature paths rather than walking along the main roads (so not complaining).

And my first ever pedestrian ferry on a camino (just before San Sebastian).

On the morning of my third day, I am experiencing the usual worries : what in the name of God am I doing? How am I going to manage this walk? Can I afford it? But these will disappate (sp?) in a few days. I have been here before.

So, all good wishes to Aubrey and Tom, starting today or tomorrow. If we are supposed to bump into each other, we will.

Gyro

 

[AubreyL]

Hola!
I just arrived in Irun and checked in to the albergue. There are more pilgrims than I expected which makes me happy. Right now I'm sitting in a park soaking in the evening sun. It feels so wonderful to be somewhere "warm" by Alaskan standards!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

There are more pilgrims than I expected

Yesterday saw a surge of arrivals in Santiago for Easter week - nearly 500 after growing slowly from about 50 to just over 100 per day over the last week.

4 de marzo de 2013: 20 peregrinos
5 de marzo de 2013: 32 peregrinos
6 de marzo de 2013: 105 peregrinos
7 de marzo de 2013: 60 peregrinos
8 de marzo de 2013: 61 peregrinos
9 de marzo de 2013: 59 peregrinos
10 de marzo de 2013: 41 peregrinos
lunes 11 de marzo: 45 peregrinos
martes 12 de marzo: 65 peregrinos
miércoles 13 de marzo: 34 peregrinos
jueves 14 de marzo: 99 peregrinos
viernes 15 de marzo: 110 peregrinos
sábado 16 de marzo: 126 peregrinos
domingo 17 de marzo: 119 peregrinos

It looks like the pilgrim season is upon us!

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hi Aubrey
think we may have almost met when I was picking up credenciale from albergue last night. In the UK Aubrey is an old man´s name, so wasn´t expecting a young woman (which is what Nicholas - crazy kiwi carrying a guitar and little else - tells me you are).
Wasn´t today the best? across the jaizkibel mountain and the wee boat over the pasajes de San Juan in glorious weather
cheers for now, tom

 

[Deleted member 3000]

The latest in Pilgrim Office arrivals:

La semana pasada han subido el numero de peregrinos que han llegado a recoger su Compostela:
Lunes, 18 de marzo: 149
Martes, 19 de marzo: 121
Miércoles, 20 de marzo: 143
Jueves, 21 de marzo: 226
Viernes, 22 de marzo: 476
Sábado, 23 de marzo: 174
Domingo, 24 de marzo: 246

 

[gyro]

Hi Aubrey
.....Wasn´t today the best? across the jaizkibel mountain and the wee boat over the pasajes de San Juan in glorious weather
cheers for now, tom

That little boat really brightens the spirits, but you will also have the joy of the boat after Laredo (so much fun) and the ferry from Somo to Santander. Enjoy all of them.
I think you are two or three days behind me but you are going much faster, so I expect to see you in two or three days time. Today I am in Unquera, right on the Asturian Border.
All kind thoughts
Gyro

 

[gyro]

Aubrey, Tom,
I hope that this weather is not affecting you too much. I am finding the cold and the wet pretty disheartening tonight.

Take GREAT care with your directions between Unquera and Llanes. There is a fair amount of motorway constructions with the usual "DESVIOS", accompanied by pink arrows. And there is also the E -9 a coastal walk which coincides with the camino at many places. If you stick to the E-9, then you will get to Llanes along pretty reasonable, if exposed paths. You will also find yourself taking a very wide circle around a hill to the South of Llanes: my initial reaction was that I was on the wrong path, but the high'altitude path evidentially did drop down to the town itself.

Llanes looks very forlorn this evening: everything is completely soaked and many of the shops are shut. Me, I am off to find some hot soup.
Kind thoughts
Gyro

 

[Tia Valeria]

Hope it dries up for you all. There are still several weeks before our planned Camino this year. Have you found any problems because of landslips, or very deep mud? We plan to follow the coast path to Llanes so hopefully will not be affected by the roadworks.....
Buen Camino to you all

 

[peregrino_tom]

Hello there,
- the name is Gyro - an elderly Scot - I will be the old guy who is lumbering along the paths, very, very slowly

Well Gyro, not that slowly! I never did quite catch you up and claim that cerveza. Got as far as Ribadasella last night and flew back from Santander this afternoon. Part 2 to be continued in October.
Aubrey has been whizzing along recently and was in Villaviciosa last night. So I hope you two don't miss each other.
Best wishes, tom

 

[gyro]

Hello there,
- the name is Gyro - an elderly Scot - I will be the old guy who is lumbering along the paths, very, very slowly

Well Gyro, not that slowly! I never did quite catch you up and claim that cerveza. Got as far as Ribadasella last night and flew back from Santander this afternoon. Part 2 to be continued in October.
Aubrey has been whizzing along recently and was in Villaviciosa last night. So I hope you two don't miss each other.
Best wishes, tom

Dear Tom,
So sorry that our paths didn't connect. I completed this stage of my walk on Monday evening by getting spectacularly lost in Gijon. I did eventually find my hotel. Aubrey, by that point, had made it to Villaviosa. So well done her on some powerful walking.
I have the usual naive faith that we will hook up in the future. I must have 14 days more walking to get to SdC, but right now, I feel absolutely shattered by the 20 days. This is a REALLY tough camino.
Kind thoughts
Gyro

 

[peregrino_tom]

Gyro
hang on in there. Yes, I found it a tough one too - my face is red from windburn and one ankle still swollen. And it's often hard to re-charge in the evenings when albergues are so spartan. But you've got springtime arriving... any day now, and Aubrey will cheer you up too - just don't ask about how she treats her blisters
best wishes, tom

 

[Sedona2012]

Gyro
hang on in there. Yes, I found it a tough one too - my face is red from windburn and one ankle still swollen. And it's often hard to re-charge in the evenings when albergues are so spartan. But you've got springtime arriving... any day now, and Aubrey will cheer you up too - just don't ask about how she treats her blisters
best wishes, tom

Hi Tom,

I had to change my date due to family illness but will be leaving May 28th for the Camino Norte. So excited and a little worried about the feedback on the difficulty of the trail. The CF and Portugal were no problem physically. Is Norte realy that much harder?

Buen Camino!
Bobbie

 

[Ocean Tom]

hello all

I am planning to walk the camino norte (and maybe the primitivo) starting on around june 5..

i hope to communicate with some of you!!

Tom

 

[MikeJS]

Gyro
hang on in there. Yes, I found it a tough one too - my face is red from windburn and one ankle still swollen. And it's often hard to re-charge in the evenings when albergues are so spartan. But you've got springtime arriving... any day now, and Aubrey will cheer you up too - just don't ask about how she treats her blisters
best wishes, tom

Hi Tom,

I had to change my date due to family illness but will be leaving May 28th for the Camino Norte. So excited and a little worried about the feedback on the difficulty of the trail. The CF and Portugal were no problem physically. Is Norte realy that much harder?

Buen Camino!
Bobbie

I walked the Francis in 2011 and the Norte in 2012. The Norte is harder than the Francis but not so every day just overall owing to the number of smaller ups and downs. The other thing that made it ‘harder’ was that there are less options of where to sty so that the stages tend to be longer and can need some careful planning each day or so. I found that most places that I stayed in had good information about the following stages which allowed me to adjust my days accordingly. I thoroughly enjoyed the Norte and there are some great bits of info on here about it. Especially, about minor alternative routes such as using the right bank from Bibao to Portugalette. To put the ‘toughness’ in perspective I was fully fit and in my late 50s for my Francis but immediately after the Norte I had my right hip replace! It had been a problem for a while and it was not the Norte that caused it!

 

[Macsierra]

If you arrive to San Sebastián alive, the rest is easier.


Sarria - Santiago (2005)
Deva (Gijón) - Lourenzá (Lugo) [2011]
Irún - Santander (2012)
Santiago - Fisterra - Muxía - Fisterra (2013)

 

[peregrino_tom]

a little worried about the feedback on the difficulty of the trail. The CF and Portugal were no problem physically. Is Norte really that much harder?

Bobbie, no I don't think it's much different. I think that starting late March limited the accommodation options and the weather was worse than expected. A lot of mud in places, quite a lot of rainy days and cold. I hadn't packed for colder weather and that can be quite tiring if you can't warm up properly every evening. All combined together - plus I got my first real injury on the camino - meant that it was harder this time.
cheers, tom

 

[Sedona2012]

a little worried about the feedback on the difficulty of the trail. The CF and Portugal were no problem physically. Is Norte really that much harder?

Bobbie, no I don't think it's much different. I think that starting late March limited the accommodation options and the weather was worse than expected. A lot of mud in places, quite a lot of rainy days and cold. I hadn't packed for colder weather and that can be quite tiring if you can't warm up properly every evening. All combined together - plus I got my first real injury on the camino - meant that it was harder this time.
cheers, tom

Sorry to hear of the injury. I am hoping June wil be warmer and less mud! So longing to be on the Camino again and same as the CF I try to keep my expectations as low as possible

Buen Camino
Bobbie

 

[lettinggo]

Hi Bobbie

I don't think you should worry to much about the difficulty of the Camino Norte, as you have experiences from the other two Caminos.
I think this is a huge advantage for anyone wanting to walk CN, as there are some differences between CF and CN, in my opinion.

This tread has many of the differences described, and this is how I would summarize it.

First of all, what season one is walking in, any Camino, makes a difference.
Off season requires warmer gear and sleeping bag which results in larger and heavier backpacks.
Furthermore, many Albergues Municipal/Xunta (cheap Albergues) are closed and forces one to either walk longer to find an open one, or check into private lodging/hostels which makes it more expensive.

My experience is that off season the CF has, in general, an open Albergue at almost all the 'normal' day destinations, stated in the most popular guides, but many smaller towns in-between are closed.
In other words, it is not difficult to find cheap lodging, right on the Camino, and there are several places one could rest out a day or two, if the body requires it.
The CN, off season, has fewer Albergues open, so one has to make longer walks, use private lodging/Youth Hostel making it a bit more expensive, but nowhere it was not possible to plan a day or two ahead.
And this is how I see the major differences between the two Caminos.
You have to be a bit more creative, walk a few kilometers off Camino to get to lodging, not get nervous along the walk whether you will get to your destination.
It is here some experience comes handy. But that being said, nowhere on the CN I found myself completely lost.
The one time I arrived late at an Albergue with no food to be bought nearby, I talked with a neighbor who drove me to a shop so I could buy some food.
CN is like CF. Filled with friendly and helpful people, if you ask for help.

Terrain wise, the first week, Irun to Bilbao, is demanding. It is a week of walking up and down through beautiful woods, and if it is wet the mud can be deep.
But after Bilbao it is more straight forward, with paved road as many report, but if one wants to walk more in nature, it can be done.
In France and Spain there is the Senderos De Gran Recorrido (GR).
It is nature paths going along the coast or a bit inland uphill.
These roads are stunning as you are walking off road, but they do require much more and will most of the time take longer to walk. But the option is there.
Many Albergues/Tourist Informations has maps for the forthcoming days which has the Camino as well as the GR marked.
In general on the CN, I found it worth to visit as many Tourist Informations, off season, to get updated news on the following walking days.

On the CF there also are many options for detours, but I rarely took them, whereas on the CN it makes more sense to me.

In season, which I have no experience with and only can guess about, I think a CN can provide more solitude, less stress of getting a bed for the night compared with the CF, but still I would recommend a first time pilgrim to take the CF.
I found it to give me a stronger feeling of walking through history and sharing this experience with other pilgrims.
Somehow there are a more positive repetitious feeling to it, which makes contemplation come easier.
I think this has somewhat to do with the nature.
Walking for weeks with the mountains to your right, the sun burning your left side of the face. The security of knowing that you will meet up with new friends at the end of the day.

For a second Camino the CN offers more diversity. The coastline changing every hour, detours on GR, a stop at Picos de Europa, and the Camino Primitivo.
I think anyone starting a CN should read up on the CP, so there is that option when you arrive at the fork. If your body is tired or you are enjoying the ocean and costal road then continue. If you feel strong and wants to get more into nature, go south in the mountains.
As long as you are listening to your body, either will be good.

This became a long description. Memories making me wish I was there right now.
Last thing will be to say; always have a little food on you. Powder soup, bread, fruit, pasta. Something.
Many nights I found myself in companion with pilgrims with no food and nowhere to buy any. Without food, the body breaks down. To sit and share the food with other pilgrims makes whatever weight it has well worth it.

Buen Camino

 

[Sedona2012]

Hi Letting Go,


I so love your forum name, as Letting Go is what I am still working on Thank you for all of the great advice and reassurance.

Buen Camino,
Bobbie

 

[Sedona2012]

If you arrive to San Sebastián alive, the rest is easier.


Sarria - Santiago (2005)
Deva (Gijón) - Lourenzá (Lugo) [2011]
Irún - Santander (2012)
Santiago - Fisterra - Muxía - Fisterra (2013)

What time of year did you walk the Norte?

Bobbie

 

[Macsierra]

End of August. It was 30 Celsius degrees in San Sebastián. Too hot to walk.


Sarria - Santiago (2005)
Deva (Gijón) - Lourenzá (Lugo) [2011]
Irún - Santander (2012)
Santiago - Fisterra - Muxía - Fisterra (2013)

 

[Ocean Tom]

Wow, thanks all for sharing your thoughts on the Camino Norte. Although it is my plan to walk the Camino Norte this June, I am still open to the idea of the CF, as this is my first time on the Camino. However, I selected the CN because of my desire for more solitude. I don't really know how the CF will be in June?

I love people too, though. I am just one who enjoys communing with nature and the solitude which allows for that. But Iam open to all of your input.

p.s. I am fairly fit (in my late 40's)

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

Hello..I plan walking Del Norte from Irun this April 2014.
Anyone got any advice on anything at all?
I expect the weather to be rough and wet.

 

[shefollowsshells]

Hello..I plan walking Del Norte from Irun this April 2014.
Anyone got any advice on anything at all?
I expect the weather to be rough and wet.

Russell I am at the NYC airport and will be in IRUN tomorrow the 27th....I'm blogging if you want it, might have info of interest or can update here when I can for those following behind me ( meaning date departure)...
Buen Camino

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

That would be great thanks
That would be great, just in case you have any info or tips on what i should or should not watch out for.
I have done the Frances 5 times complete and the Via de Plata 1 time complete, but still feel like i know nothing
Have a nice and safe walk.
Buen Camino

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

Let me know if it is easy to get the Credential/Passport please. when i did the Via de la Plata it was nightmare to find one and the Cathderal was shut in Seville.
Thanks

 

[camino07]

Shefollowsshells I would love to read your blog.I start from Irun on 20th May .
Buen Camino
Heather

 

[peregrino_tom]

Let me know if it is easy to get the Credential/Passport please]

Yes, it's easy to get hold of the credencial at the start of the Norte. The Irun albergue issues them.

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

Yes, it's easy to get hold of the credencial at the start of the Norte. The Irun albergue issues them.

Thanks Tom

 

[OzAnnie]

That would be great thanks
That would be great, just in case you have any info or tips on what i should or should not watch out for.
I have done the Frances 5 times complete and the Via de Plata 1 time complete, but still feel like i know nothing
Have a nice and safe walk.
Buen Camino

Such a modest man !

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

Such a modest man !

 

[shefollowsshells]

Let me know if it is easy to get the Credential/Passport please. when i did the Via de la Plata it was nightmare to find one and the Cathderal was shut in Seville.
Thanks

Cathedral was closed in Irun and the tourist office had none. I came with two, but hoped to get one that when opened was a full page (just me I like that look).
Get one before leaving!

 

[Kanga]

Cathedral was closed in Irun and the tourist office had none. I came with two, but hoped to get one that when opened was a full page (just me I like that look).
Get one before leaving!

Useful information. I'm thinking of the Norte for my next Camino.

 

[Eli_marie]

I leave in 4 days for my first camino on the Norte! I arrive in Irun on Tuesday and begin my journey the following day. Yesterday, in Madrid, I picked up my credential and shell. Beyond excited and nervous (although I think my nerves are more calm than my mothers!) Any last minute advice is welcome.

Buen Camino amigos!

Eli

 

[camino07]

I hope to pick up a credencial at the Albergue in Irun but does anyone know if one can be found in Barcelona just in case?

 

[Eli_marie]

I hope to pick up a credencial at the Albergue in Irun but does anyone know if one can be found in Barcelona just in case?

Hopefully this link helps!

http://www.caminosantiago.org/cpper...iaficha.asp?AsociacionId=75&relacion=Federada

 

[camino07]

Thanks for the link Eli Marie. I will study it later..

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

Useful information. I'm thinking of the Norte for my next Camino.

I can ask at the Albergue in Irun.
I start next Saturday morning 5th of April 2014.

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

I leave in 4 days for my first camino on the Norte! I arrive in Irun on Tuesday and begin my journey the following day. Yesterday, in Madrid, I picked up my credential and shell. Beyond excited and nervous (although I think my nerves are more calm than my mothers!) Any last minute advice is welcome.

Buen Camino amigos!

Eli

Buen Camino Eli
I get into Irun 5th of april 2014 at 6:30 and my first port of call is to find a credential.

 

[Eli_marie]

Buen Camino Eli
I get into Irun 5th of april 2014 at 6:30 and my first port of call is to find a credential.

Russell, I'm sure you will catch up to me quickly, I'm afraid i won't be that fast of a walker!

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

Russell, I'm sure you will catch up to me quickly, I'm afraid i won't be that fast of a walker!

It is amazing..I told my friend from Germany that i am booked to go walking the Del Norte and he said he wants to come walking for 1 week with me, as quick as that, he asked his wife and she said yes...I met him ( Genja ) walking the Camino Frances 3 years ago...The world can be so cool at times and is not always shit ( Excuse my French ) so i arrive Saturday and wait one day for Genja to arrive on the Sunday....Vino Rioja come on !

 

[jpflavin1]

The Albergue in Irun should be open April 1st. I emailed them and they sent me a note back stating they would open on that day for the season.

 

[Russell Martin Kenny]

Cool...Thanks for that JP

 

[unadara]

I love the meeting up with old camino buddies, did that too, amazing. BUT never worried about a credencial?. Maybe when I walked the Norte I brought the Irish "passport" with me? On the Madrid I got it in Madrid. on the CF we used Irish passports/friends of St James Ire, I am very modest too. You can walk pick up a passport NO worries..