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Camino Routes
🇪🇸 Routes in Spain
🇪🇸 Camino de INVIERNO (from Ponferrada)
Camino de Invierno mid-April 2024
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[QUOTE="sun is shining, post: 1244654, member: 11129"] [B]Day 3: Puente Domingo Florez - Xagoaza[/B] What a good nights rest we had at Casa Rosa - only slightly too short because today’s predicted high temperatures meant another early start. Which turned out completely fine. The trail was easy to walk in the dark and tbh, these “walking into the sunrise” mornings are really starting to grow on me. We passed Pumares which is a lovely little town where the inhabitants seem to be big supporters of the Camino. Lots of encouraging signs and even a sello station. We had breakfast at the beautiful rest station (arbol de descanso 1.5km from Noguerias) before continuing on to Sobradelo for a well deserved coffee. The Camino takes you straight past a bar (Pontenova) which was at 10am the social hub of town already. From there onwards the Camino was at times less than inspiring with lots of asphalt walking in the direct sunlight. There’s a fountain in Entoma but it wasn’t working when we walked past - looks like there’s an open bar next to it though. Onwards to O Barco and now our frequent breaks caught up with us. Temps were nearing 30c around midday and the first bar we passed seemed like paradise while we downed several litres of water there. And here I realised that it was a bad day to speak Spanish 😅 Upon hearing of our plan to stay at the Xagoaza albergue a lively discussion ensured about the craziness of the endeavour, the monumentally steep incline and something about “rather doing all the Sunday morning shifts for a month than attempting this with this heat”. Well, we did survive the walk to the albergue - just. Not much shade to be had and the asphalt reflecting the heat didn’t help things. So if you are about to start the Invierno don’t be fooled by the name - pack lots of sunscreen, a hat and decent shades. The Xagoaza albergue makes me a bit sad. I’ve read the Gronze reviews that it’s dirty etc but hoped to really like this place. Personally, I appreciate it when the EU spends funds on sustainable rural development of which this albergue should be the posterchild. But alas, the reviews were somewhat correct. Unfortunately the interior really shows a lack of love and care. The structure is outstanding, wide open spaces, lots of showers (fantastic water pressure) and toilets, equipped kitchen, real sheets - what more could you want? But you soon see what the reviews are about. Cobwebs, stuff on the floor, overflowing bin in the kitchen and old stuff in the fridge. The kitchen is in fact pretty dirty (although that’s probably a pilgrim issue) and the washing machine is covered in mold. Most of these things should hopefully easily be fixable by providing cleaning stuff and directions to pilgrims (e.g., empty trash can in xx spot outside, here are mops for the shower stalls, rugs to clean the tables after dinner, etc). On the flipside, the hospitaliera was lovely whenever we chatted on WhatsApp (she didn’t come round that day) and I hope that more pilgrims staying over night might increase her allocated time to take care of this outstanding albergue. Regardless, we had a fantastic night (just us two and one other peregrina that we’ve seen since Ponferrada) with tasty dinner and a beautiful sunset view. That is to say, yes the reviews are somewhat true but this is an albergue that’s not to be missed. The view and the tranquility made this - even after the gruelling ascent - to one of my favourite albergue experiences on any Camino. My suggestion, walk across the road to the church (closed unfortunately) and sit in the shade of the surrounding trees - this is what „disconnecting“ on the Camino feels like. Onwards to A Rua tomorrow! [B]Total km:[/B] 25km [B]Accommodation[/B]: Albergue Xagoaza. [B]Cost & Access[/B]: 10€ pP. I messaged the hospitaliera via WhatsApp the day before, door to the albergue was unlocked when we arrived. [B]Total spend[/B]: 28€ [/QUOTE]
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