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Camino de invierno alternative through Escairon

Leadell

Canadian Company of PIlgrims
Time of past OR future Camino
Via Francigena (planned, 2023)
We recently finished walking the Camino Invierno. It is a beautiful route, though some of its stages are long and difficult. In order to make one long day into two shorter ones, we deviated from the established route from Monforte to Chantada and stayed in Escairon instead. This broke a 31km day with no intermediate stops into two stages of 19 and 15 km, which is much more doable for us. The route was straightforward but not marked at all. Escairon is a lovely little town with lots of services and it deserves to have a camino going through it. However, on the alternative route we took out of Escairon to Madredagua , we saw at least 12-15 large dogs, some in groups of 2 or 3, all of them loose, over the course of about 5 kilometres. All of those dogs came out onto the road and barked at us, sometimes surrounding us. One was particularly menacing and followed us closely, barking loudly, over about 250 meters. During all this time we did not see any people in the villages and farms where these dogs were loose. We found it very frightening. We have walked many caminos in Spain and have encountered many dogs. In general they are chained or fenced; if they are not, they usually bark but don’t leave their property. I think most dogs along the camino are used to seeing pilgrims walking past. This was not the case for this 5k stretch. For this reason I would find it hard to recommend the detour to Escairon, even though the route is very beautiful. I would only walk that way again if I was with a large group! I don’t know what the solution is, but it probably involves education of both pilgrims (what to do when you encounter a dog that menaces you) and dog owners.
 
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I hope you had a good experience otherwise..

I had a few unsettling encounters with dogs along the invierno, and I found more loose dogs than I'm used to in Spain. Usually my stick gives me enough confidence, though I've never had to physically use it. The scariest incident was between Rodeiro and Lalin, at a confluence of farm gates about five dogs were hanging out. I wasnt bothered about the smaller, yapping dogs, but the ringleader, an alsation was quite menacing...
 
Thanks @Leadell! Do you have any GPS tracks or further directions on the routes you took both to and From Escairon? Also where did you stay? We will be on the Invierno in June and are planning to break up that stage by staying at Torre Vilarino. But I haven't reserved in advance since we are starting in Irun and don't know exactly when we will get there. Escairon would be a good alternative option for us.
 
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[I just see that @ebrandt is asking similar questions but I'll post anyway :)]

Thanks for this report. I am considering the Invierno on my own and I am not keen about large dogs! I am curious if the Torre Vilariño was open or full at the time.
on the alternative route we took out of Escairon to Madredagua
Can you help identify which route you took out of Escairon? (I can't find Madredagua on a map.)
 
It was @Charrito and @KinkyOne who introduced us to this alternative, which I have never walked. If you search the forum for Escairón you’ll find lots of discussion.

The forum guide gives you two ways to get there (one directly from Monforte and one from the intersection where Torre Vilariño is to the left), and it also has instructions on how to get back to the camino. Also a hotel rec. Is this the way you walked, @Leadell?

The next day, continue on the LU 617. Turn left by the cheese factory, onto LU-P-5806. There is a sign indicating you are 4 km from Diomondi church, and when you arrive there you will be back on the Camino, and ready to start the descent to Belesar.
(from the forum guide).

I can’t think of any reason why this would be preferable to Torre Vilariño and its marvelous loop to see the Miño. The dogs would be a real disincentive for me. I know we’ve had a lot of dog conversations/debates in Invierno threads, and I’m not trying to stir the pot, but I don’t understand how owners leave mean dogs running around loose. Maybe these are all dogs trained to guard livestock? You would think that even on a road where no pilgrims walk, there would still be neighbors out taking a walk who wouldn’t enjoy the scene @Leadell described.
 
Mmmm, I searched the forum and got nothing, but just typed again and found the threads 🙄. As you can likely tell from my posts, typing on my iPad is hit or miss 😮! And I have read the forum guide so many times. Should have known you covered it @peregrina2000!

I’m just a bit worried that by the time I know when we will be there, Torre Vilarino will be booked.
 
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Hands up for Torre Vilarino!! It's a wonderful place to stay. Hope it will be available when you're able to book @ebrandt and @C clearly ! Besides the Miño loop which I sadly missed (next time!) there is the wonderful ethnological museum, Ecomuseo Arxeriz and a castro almost next door!

@Leadell I'm curious if you encountered the vicious chained dogs along a narrow path beside a farm in Trampilla just before Barxa do Lor?
 
When I walked the end of the VdlP the other year, I came across so many loose dogs on the Orense to Cea stage. All of them menacing. Alsations, Rottweilers and various mastiff type breeds. I uncapped my poles and had a decent folding/camping knife on my rucksack strap, within easy reach if I needed it. They didn't attack, just barked and I ignored them and carried on regardless. Then that was trumped by seeing three large wolves and a cub, coming out of a storm drain, at the top of hill, before you get to Dozon. Needless to say that scared me more, especially since it was starting to get dark at that point, plus I'd found ripped up sheep corpses, an hour earlier. Still in hindsight, it was kind of cool to see wolves in the wild. We don't have wolves in the UK.
 
Thanks @Leadell! Do you have any GPS tracks or further directions on the routes you took both to and From Escairon? Also where did you stay? We will be on the Invierno in June and are planning to break up that stage by staying at Torre Vilarino. But I haven't reserved in advance since we are starting in Irun and don't know exactly when we will get there. Escairon would be a good alternative option for us.
Good morning. To get to Escairon, we were relying on the Wise Pilgrim description of the alternative route. We left the camino just after Monforte de Lemos on LU-617 (Estrada Monforte-Belesar). We stayed at the two-star Hostal O Ruso which was clean, comfortable and basic, with good food in the restaurant. It was the road out of Escairon where we met the dogs, on LU-P-4102, between Montes and Madredagua where to road rejoins the Camino.
 
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[I just see that @ebrandt is asking similar questions but I'll post anyway :)]

Thanks for this report. I am considering the Invierno on my own and I am not keen about large dogs! I am curious if the Torre Vilariño was open or full at the time.

Can you help identify which route you took out of Escairon? (I can't find Madredagua on a map.)
See my description of the route (LU-P-4102 and 5807) in a recent response to ebrandt. If we had known about Torre Vilariño we would certainly have tried to stay there (should have checked Gronze). The Wise Pilgrim mentions it but only in a descriptive passage; the lodging icon is missing so we didn’t see it till later!
 
I hope you had a good experience otherwise..

I had a few unsettling encounters with dogs along the invierno, and I found more loose dogs than I'm used to in Spain. Usually my stick gives me enough confidence, though I've never had to physically use it. The scariest incident was between Rodeiro and Lalin, at a confluence of farm gates about five dogs were hanging out. I wasnt bothered about the smaller, yapping dogs, but the ringleader, an alsation was quite menacing...
That’s funny. My notes on the stage from Rodeiro to Lalín say this: “highlights included sunshine, heat, cuckoos, and friendly or indifferent dogs in the villages we passed through.” You just never know!
 
Hands up for Torre Vilarino!! It's a wonderful place to stay. Hope it will be available when you're able to book @ebrandt and @C clearly ! Besides the Miño loop which I sadly missed (next time!) there is the wonderful ethnological museum, Ecomuseo Arxeriz and a castro almost next door!

@Leadell I'm curious if you encountered the vicious chained dogs along a narrow path beside a farm in Trampilla just before Barxa do Lor?
Not on a narrow path at all but on a tertiary road, the LU-P-4102, between Montes and Madredagua where the road rejoins the Camino.
 
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