I am back from the "Via de Baztan" - so here some information:
Beautiful, remote, lonely, very green and - on the beginning of April - rather rany.
As to my stages, I followed mostly the advice of DomiBy (MilleMerci pour ces bons conseils!)
Bayonne: I slept in the Maison diocésaine for 17€ (good breakfast included) - normally, they are closed on Sundays, but the Director himself came gratiously to let me in.
MAISON DIOCESAINE "ST LEON"
10, Av. Jean DARRIGRAND
64100 - BAYONNE
Tél : 05 59 58 47 47 (entre 16 et 20h)
<maisondio@numericable.fr>
Bayonne - Espelette (slightly off camino, just before Souraïde) :
Pilgrims' albergue (10€)
You have to contact the 'Office de tourisme'
Espelette is one of those charming basque villages, plenty of tourism, thus plenty of shopping possibilities
On the way: at least 2 possibilities to stop for a coffee, lunch etc.
Espelette - Urdax (in French) / Urdazubi (in Spanish) :
Pilgrims' albergue in ancient monastry (4€)
Some bars and at least one restaurant. One of the bars (next to the albergue) is a small shop as well.
Btw, in between : Ainhoa with bars, restaurants and shops, and in Dancharria at the old border plenty of awesome supermarkets.
Urdazubi - Ariskun :
Pension Etxeberria (20€)
Btw, there is an albergue in Amaiur, +- 5 km before reaching Ariskun
One bar in Amaiur - open when I passed
In Ariskun, I saw at least one bar, the pension being bar, restaurant and shop on the same time...
Ariskun - Berroeta :
Albergue in Berroeta (4€) - above the Fronton (don't forget ear plugs!)
Bring something to eat, no shopping possibility.
On your way: Elizondo, capital of the Baztan region. Plenty of everything.
Berroeta - Olaguë :
Albergue Olaguë above youth meeting point (earplugs!) - 4€
I chose the alternative which goes down the valley before climbing again... (not the "oriental" one which seems to have few waymarking left).
At some point, the Venta de San Blaes where you can eat and drink and rest...
Lanz: one bar-restaurant. The very lovely owners proposed me to share their meal!
Olaguë: you can buy some basic things in a very small shop. The elderly lady opens kind of a window in the entrance of her house... Amazing.
Olaguë - Pamplona :
You come through plenty of villages but few offer a bar or a restaurant.
Therefore you should not miss the bar/restaurant in Sorauren...
To resume:
There are enough albergues to stop overnight, you should just know that none of them were heated. To get warm, to keep warm, to dry you wet hair, well : get inventive!
All - with exception of the last one - very clean and mostly well equipped.
To contact the hospitaleras of the Spanish albergues, you have to phone them (you might already do so the day upon your arrival - not to make a reservation but for them to know that a pilgrim is arriving. The lady responsible for the albergue in Olaguë told me quite severly that she might have been off to Pamplona for the Procession and that I might have stuck in pourring rain for hours. Thanks Santiaga, she was at home...)
If you want to join the
Camino Frances to get to Santiago but you would like to have some lonely days or you prefer a less steeper way to cross the Pyrenees, the Baztan Way might be for you!
PS for detailled information about the albergues, have a look on the information sheet Catharina published on the board