Branching out to Portugal

[Anemone del Camino]

This will be my 6th outing on the Camino: Frances over three trips, then the first third of the Norte, last spring the Primitivo. This year the plan the Porto to Santiago and then off to Muxia & Fisterra.

Never have I procrastinated so much in the planning! Booked my flight from Santiago back to Madrid last night, my room in Santiago for the night before this morning. And this is with all the talk of how busy things are and having seen weeks and weeks ago that San Martin Pinario was already booked. One thing is struggling to find an inexpensive bed, the other is waiting for the morning flight to Madrid to fill up. Where is my head?

I have 2 nights booked at the ViaPortuscale donativo in Porto, and Saturday night at Casa Fernanda. @Albertinho suggested I book early, and I did just that about a month ago. For the rest, guess we'll see.

Plan is walking to Matosinhos on the first day and come back to tne albergue, and the next days walk the coast to Vila de Conde. But the weather is crummy, so I guess I won't be getting sunburned walking on the boardwalk. From there it's in land. I toued with the idea of heading back out to the coast after Ponte de Lima ot Valenca, but I got tempted by the Spiritual, so the Coast may be left for next year.

I am looking forward to a Camino in a country where I do not know the language. It will be a different experience. And talk about procrastination... I had planned to be a good tourist and learn the basics to at least be polite and demonstrate I am making an effort. Well, I think I will be lucky if I order a cafe com leite and can say thank you. Pilgrim priorities. When I phone Fernanda's to reserve I spoke in English and when I told her my name she switched to beautifully spoken Fench. My first pleasant surprise of many to come I'm sure.

Bag got packed a few minutes ago. Panicked a bit last night looking for my new handsfree Euroschrimm umbrella I received as a bday present because it wasn't in the Camino closet. Yes, I have a Camino closet. When I find something during the year I will want to bring next time, in the closet it goes. Problem the closet is not lit and lots of tne stuff in it is black, so the umbrella was there, but hidding. Bag weighs 17.4 kg. Plus mini Ipad and I phone which I will carry with me on the plane.

I bring 200g. worth of foot/fasciitis items: a ball to roll under my foot, that funny sock that keeps your foot flexed at night and a second pair of orthotics as I have to switch between soft and hard during the day.

For the rain it's the umbrella, trousers and altus. Still wondering about the waterproof windbreaker, or can I get away with just the altus and the umbrella?

For sleeping I am repeating the permetryn sprayed tule but instread of the sleeping bag I have opted for my old liner and a duvet quilt.

Macabi is coming back for evening whole walking trousers dry, with leggings to be worn under it if chilly. They also serve as PJs. Pacers are also coming back.

The last big change will be shoes: leaving, I think, Albertinho says the weather is dreadful until Friday, behing my Gortex Salomons and opting for Bondi 3 Hoka One Ones. Wish I had found their Summit trekking shoes, waterproof, to try....

So tonight is a direct flight to Lisbon on Air Transat, and then Ryanaire to Porto at noon. Backpack in the hold for both legs, although I may try to take the backpack on baord for the second leg to see for myself what the status of Pacers is these days.

Well here goes back to doing the Camino like in the good old days before I learned of reservations a d bag transportation. I am not one who believes "the Camino provides" but one with a credit card and a Telus European phone plan so all will be good.

Flight in 4 hours!

 

[domigee]

I'm sure you'll be fine once your plane lands, all the last minute worries left behind and forgotten. Good journey and buen camino!
PS: Is your pack really over 17kgs?

 

[MTtoCamino]

This will be my 6th outing on the Camino: Frances over three trips, then the first third of the Norte, last spring the Primitivo. This year the plan the Porto to Santiago and then off to Muxia & Fisterra.

Never have I procrastinated so much in the planning! Booked my flight from Santiago back to Madrid last night, my room in Santiago for the night before this morning. And this is with all the talk of how busy things are and having seen weeks and weeks ago that San Martin Pinario was already booked. One thing is struggling to find an inexpensive bed, the other is waiting for the morning flight to Madrid to fill up. Where is my head?

I have 2 nights booked at the ViaPortuscale donativo in Porto, and Saturday night at Casa Fernanda. @Albertinho suggested I book early, and I did just that about a month ago. For the rest, guess we'll see.

Plan is walking to Matosinhos on the first day and come back to tne albergue, and the next days walk the coast to Vila de Conde. But the weather is crummy, so I guess I won't be getting sunburned walking on the boardwalk. From there it's in land. I toued with the idea of heading back out to the coast after Ponte de Lima ot Valenca, but I got tempted by the Spiritual, so the Coast may be left for next year.

I am looking forward to a Camino in a country where I do not know the language. It will be a different experience. And talk about procrastination... I had planned to be a good tourist and learn the basics to at least be polite and demonstrate I am making an effort. Well, I think I will be lucky if I order a cafe com leite and can say thank you. Pilgrim priorities. When I phone Fernanda's to reserve I spoke in English and when I told her my name she switched to beautifully spoken Fench. My first pleasant surprise of many to come I'm sure.

Bag got packed a few minutes ago. Panicked a bit last night looking for my new handsfree Euroschrimm umbrella I received as a bday present because it wasn't in the Camino closet. Yes, I have a Camino closet. When I find something during the year I will want to bring next time, in the closet it goes. Problem the closet is not lit and lots of tne stuff in it is black, so the umbrella was there, but hidding. Bag weighs 17.4 kg. Plus mini Ipad and I phone which I will carry with me on the plane.

I bring 200g. worth of foot/fasciitis items: a ball to roll under my foot, that funny sock that keeps your foot flexed at night and a second pair of orthotics as I have to switch between soft and hard during the day.

For the rain it's the umbrella, trousers and altus. Still wondering about the waterproof windbreaker, or can I get away with just the altus and the umbrella?

For sleeping I am repeating the permetryn sprayed tule but instread of the sleeping bag I have opted for my old liner and a duvet quilt.

Macabi is coming back for evening whole walking trousers dry, with leggings to be worn under it if chilly. They also serve as PJs. Pacers are also coming back.

The last big change will be shoes: leaving, I think, Albertinho says the weather is dreadful until Friday, behing my Gortex Salomons and opting for Bondi 3 Hoka One Ones. Wish I had found their Summit trekking shoes, waterproof, to try....

So tonight is a direct flight to Lisbon on Air Transat, and then Ryanaire to Porto at noon. Backpack in the hold for both legs, although I may try to take the backpack on baord for the second leg to see for myself what the status of Pacers is these days.

Well here goes back to doing the Camino like in the good old days before I learned of reservations a d bag transportation. I am not one who believes "the Camino provides" but one with a credit card and a Telus European phone plan so all will be good.

Flight in 4 hours!

Have a great time! I hope you post more about your walk as this will be my next one. I really want to do the CM & then up to the Primitivo as well but I will wait to see what calls to me.
Thanks for posting this as it reminds it is ok to be nervous.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Great news! A good omen for the rest of the trip? Fingers crossed.

YUL security /baggage controls informs me that they allow walking poles and umbrellas on board. I could have taken by back pack as carry on!

 

[Castilian]

Have a great time! Enjoy your walk, your stops and your resting times!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

After two nights in Porto I am now in albergue Santa Clara in Vila do Conde. But first things first.

In Porto I had booked 2 nights at the Via Portuscale Association albergue with is some 10 km from the city center but only a 250m walk from a subway station the Airport line stops at. Perfect. There is a phone number on the door. I cLled but was told they would open at 5pm, so I decided to go to the Cathedral to have my credencial stamped. When I came back I was greated by a fellow pilgrim who had been staying there for 3 days due to some mechanical problems with his bicycle. The hospi had asked him to be there at 5 to let me in.

The albergue is 4 or 5 years old. Built from a former garage but members of the Association and other volunteers. It is mainly taken care of by a lovely couple. One large room with 18 beds, they give you a bed sheet and pillowcase as well as an Ikea fleece blanket. Smart, because they are warm and washable. The other room has the kitchen and dining room table. There is a full bathroom for each gender and a large backyard. The forst night there were two of us, the second, 4.

There is a washing machine but no dryer, and since it rained ... no washing was done. Lidl grocery store 500 m. away. But other than the wonderful hospitality the Jazz music station playing on the radio was very enjoyable. Will have to look it up to see if they have it online.

A word to the wise regarding the Tourism info center: while it is located 100m. from the Se cathedral, the attendee had me walk the tourist street down to the river and then back up. Not fun when jetlagged and carrying a backpack.

The next day, after waking up at 9am!, I walked to Matosinhos along the river as suggested by Albertinho. Managed to walk in the wrong direction so to get to the top part of the iron bridge I ended uo taking the elevator. Is that cheating? . Then it was along the coast past the portwine warehouses towards the next bridge. On that boardwalk I noticed holes had been driiled out. At first I thought it was for rain water to drain but after seing men fishing there Imrealised they are meant to hold fishing rods in place. Clever.

150m past the second bridge is a small but well identified dock were you hop on a boat to cross the Douoro for 1.5€. Then it's along the coast to the posh burbs of Matosinhos where the skies opened, the Atlantic roared, and I took shelter in a newstand.

The albergue being chilly, I made myself soup. A jar of white beans (49 cents), half a chourizo sliced (50 cents), a bag of that gren veggie that looks like kale (79 cents), an onion (35 cents), 2 eggs and some beef stock cubes. Yummy! Breakfast was two hardboiled eggs and 2 small yogourts.

More about today's walk tomorrow. clothes are washed and just pulled out of the drier, so it's nap time.

 

[mspath]

Anemone,
Hope you have or had a great siesta! The Via Portus Cale albergue sounds relaxed and very comfy. Please do keep on writing; looking forward to reading what you discover as your journey unfolds.

Bom caminho and, as always,
Ultreia!

Margaret Meredith

 

[anniethenurse]

Hola @Anemone del Camino
Have a great camino!
I have walked in Portugal twice in May / June and one in September.
Great memories!
Keep on posting!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I have napped and had dinner, so here is the rest.

Hopped on the subway to Matosinhos quite carelesly, Brierly packed away. humm.. What stop did I have to get off at? The last one? But Mercado rings a bell... Mercado it is. But then what? No idea. Thankfully three other pilgrims emerge from the metro cars and one knows we have to cross a bridge. We see one and cross it. A couplr of hundred meters later the first arrow. We are good to go. I walked with these people to out cafe com leite and then a bit further on, after it became obvious it was time to pull out the Altus. But then I stayed back, happy tomhave had them to motivate me to walk a bit faster than usual.

Altus combo with umbrella is a winning combo, although I cannit figure out how to use the clips to make the umbrella "hands free". But it's so light, and the ground so flat and non slippery that the poles are dangling off the backpack's side. We pass a few historical monuments and a series of coockie cutter restaurants set up is regtangular boxes. There is one every 3-4 km. Not exactly quaint as I had expected but convinient.

I know the 3 people at the albergue are coming this way, and I started walking with 3, joined another 5. The new Santa Clara albergue in Vila do Conde has 25 beds, and the town has a metro station, Will I get a bed? I am a 3 km an hour girl, but after an ensalada mixta ( yup, they have them in PT as well), eaten in a cafe where 4 other people are waiting for the rain to pass, I decided I need to make it if I want a bed. And this is how I became, for an afternnon, the 7km in 75 minute girl! Got to the albergue and it was still closed. Turns out it opens at 3 pm.

I was the first one at the albergue. Something was not right. But I had remembered someone on the Forum in Feb. posting about fake detours and was corrected once by a local when I was going to follow an arrow, a fake arrow. Ah ha! And then I suspect I found a second fake arrow. If in doubt, follow the coast until 1km or so from town, And town is where those tall buildings you can see from Matosinhos are. Only turn inland then, and when there are no more boardwalks to be seen. All this to say I did not follow the faux arrows unlike the other unfirtunate people and was the first one to pick a bed and hit the showers.

The albergue is on the main street, after a roind about, the front of it all glass. 3 dorms, bathrooms are all in one, showers and loos so lots of room to change. There is a tiny kitchen: not a place to cook but to store and microwave food. Washing machine and dryer!! But the washing machine cycle takes 2 hours!!! Wash by hand and use the dryer. 1 € each mind you! There is also a large room in the back to hang wet clothes, and a large terrace, but sunnier days. The drying room as small lockers, for €, smartphone, etc. with keys.

Beds have that plastic cover, night tables by their side, ladders to clime to the bunk above. Restaurant recommended at the corner of the street has to be new. The manager is ultra keen: has a stamp, takes people of ckients, asks them to write comments in a custom book. Very cute. But while the pilgrim menu (soup and combinado) is 5.50€, the bottle of house wine is 8€.

After dinner climbed up to the church: beautiful views of the aquaduct I will be following for 5 km apparently.. Who makes anything these days that lasts as long as what the Romans left us?

And check out time is ... 9 am. Time to sleep in again since tomorrow's stop,is only 15 km away.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

j

Anemone,
Hope you have or had a great siesta! The Via Portus Cale albergue sounds relaxed and very comfy. Please do keep on writing; looking forward to reading what you discover as your journey unfolds.

Bom caminho and, as always,
Ultreia!

Margaret Meredith

It's nothing fancy, but built and cared for with a lot of love, for pilgrims and the Camino. A great way to put yourself in Camino mindset which is what I was looking for.

Did I forget to mention that when my co-pilgrim for the night went to get groceries the doorbelld rang. I open the door: nothing. I look at the gate: a tall police man. I get closer and see there are 8 of them! They want to know if the hospi is there. He isn't so they leave. Next day hospi says they were looking for someone in particular and wondered if he might be at the albergue, and because a juge lives a stone's throw away they sent 8 people...

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Oh, feet. If you have always oiled, creamed, vaselined your feet with success, don't stop doing it because you switched to Injinjis. Imhave my 2nd Camino blister ever. Also, unmentionables, apparently if the Ice Breakers worked well in the past, they are not cooperating, no matter how much Proshield Plus and Glide I use. I suffered so much because of my Tillies the first Camino I am not looking for a re-do. Just when you think you have it all sorted out..

 

[mspath]

Your earlier post reads like the script for the opening shot of a movie! Hope you don't have another visitation from the men in blue. ...May the night be peaceful. By the way do you carry a whistle?

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Your earlier post rżeads like the script for the opening shot of a movie! Hope you don't have another visitation from the men in blue. ...May the night be peaceful. By the way do you carry a whistle?

Yes, I started carrying ine on the Primitivo last May. We do strange things on the Camino don't we, things we would never do at home: share a house for a night, share a bedroom for a night, with a total stanger, in the this case a man who's first name is all I knew. But the men in blue? Quite attractive group if I do say so my self. Like the young man helping me off the fluvial boat.

 

[edumad]

[QUOTE="A word to the wise regarding the Tourism info center: while it is located 100m. from the Se cathedral, the attendee had me walk the tourist street down to the river and then back up. Not fun when jetlagged and carrying a backpack.[/QUOTE]
The stairs down from Sé do Porto is part of the camino if I remember correctly. You end up in a street where you can see the river on the left but the camino arrows point upwards.

Along the boardwalks that paralel the beach, in Labruge, there is a small bar/restaurante. I've had a great almond tart, and they also had sea urchins got try those some time. Sorry that the recomendation comes too late.

Looking forward to the rest of the reports. loving it.

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi, Anemone,
Still a few more days for my departure, so your postings are helping to fill the Camino void for me. Sounds like you are in full blown Peregrina mode and on your way. Bom Caminho, Laurie

 

[marbuck]

Bag got packed a few minutes ago. Panicked a bit last night looking for my new handsfree Euroschrimm umbrella I received as a bday present because it wasn't in the Camino closet. Yes, I have a Camino closet.

Pleased to see I am not the only one who has a Camino closet where items are put aside for the next Camino. Be interesting to know how many other Camino addicts have a Camino closet?

 

[SabsP]

O

Yes, I started carrying ine on the Primitivo last May. We do strange things on the Camino don't we, things we would never do at home: share a house for a night, share a bedroom for a night, with a total stanger, in the this case a man who's first name is all I knew. But the men in blue? Quite attractive group if I do say so my self. Like the young man helping me off the fluvial boat.

Oh the attractive Portugues men! I cannot praise their looks enough!

Buen Camino!!

 

[Vieja]

This will be my 6th outing on the Camino: Frances over three trips, then the first third of the Norte, last spring the Primitivo. This year the plan the Porto to Santiago and then off to Muxia & Fisterra.

Never have I procrastinated so much in the planning! Booked my flight from Santiago back to Madrid last night, my room in Santiago for the night before this morning. And this is with all the talk of how busy things are and having seen weeks and weeks ago that San Martin Pinario was already booked. One thing is struggling to find an inexpensive bed, the other is waiting for the morning flight to Madrid to fill up. Where is my head?

I have 2 nights booked at the ViaPortuscale donativo in Porto, and Saturday night at Casa Fernanda. @Albertinho suggested I book early, and I did just that about a month ago. For the rest, guess we'll see.

Plan is walking to Matosinhos on the first day and come back to tne albergue, and the next days walk the coast to Vila de Conde. But the weather is crummy, so I guess I won't be getting sunburned walking on the boardwalk. From there it's in land. I toued with the idea of heading back out to the coast after Ponte de Lima ot Valenca, but I got tempted by the Spiritual, so the Coast may be left for next year.

I am looking forward to a Camino in a country where I do not know the language. It will be a different experience. And talk about procrastination... I had planned to be a good tourist and learn the basics to at least be polite and demonstrate I am making an effort. Well, I think I will be lucky if I order a cafe com leite and can say thank you. Pilgrim priorities. When I phone Fernanda's to reserve I spoke in English and when I told her my name she switched to beautifully spoken Fench. My first pleasant surprise of many to come I'm sure.

Bag got packed a few minutes ago. Panicked a bit last night looking for my new handsfree Euroschrimm umbrella I received as a bday present because it wasn't in the Camino closet. Yes, I have a Camino closet. When I find something during the year I will want to bring next time, in the closet it goes. Problem the closet is not lit and lots of tne stuff in it is black, so the umbrella was there, but hidding. Bag weighs 17.4 kg. Plus mini Ipad and I phone which I will carry with me on the plane.

I bring 200g. worth of foot/fasciitis items: a ball to roll under my foot, that funny sock that keeps your foot flexed at night and a second pair of orthotics as I have to switch between soft and hard during the day.

For the rain it's the umbrella, trousers and altus. Still wondering about the waterproof windbreaker, or can I get away with just the altus and the umbrella?

For sleeping I am repeating the permetryn sprayed tule but instread of the sleeping bag I have opted for my old liner and a duvet quilt.

Macabi is coming back for evening whole walking trousers dry, with leggings to be worn under it if chilly. They also serve as PJs. Pacers are also coming back.

The last big change will be shoes: leaving, I think, Albertinho says the weather is dreadful until Friday, behing my Gortex Salomons and opting for Bondi 3 Hoka One Ones. Wish I had found their Summit trekking shoes, waterproof, to try....

So tonight is a direct flight to Lisbon on Air Transat, and then Ryanaire to Porto at noon. Backpack in the hold for both legs, although I may try to take the backpack on baord for the second leg to see for myself what the status of Pacers is these days.

Well here goes back to doing the Camino like in the good old days before I learned of reservations a d bag transportation. I am not one who believes "the Camino provides" but one with a credit card and a Telus European phone plan so all will be good.

Flight in 4 hours!

 

[Vieja]

hi ... have a great trip ... please take notes so I can learn from yor trip ... hands free umbrella!! how cool ... love the Camino closet I dea ... Buen Camino

 

[Anemone del Camino]

So... leaving Vila do Conde, Brierly well packed away in my backpack. I decided I liked the shorter way follwing the aquaduct. Afterall, I wrote on the map in my guidebook the other option, through Junqueira, is not waymarked. WRONG! It's the way by the aquaduct that is not marked. So much for all the home planning before hitting the road. . And Brierly says you can still find your way if you have some sense of orientation, so either he is wrong or Imhave none.

Finding the aquaduct is simple, but you cannot follow it all as you would have to cross a heavily and fastly, if that was a correct word, road. And beeping too confident in my caminoing, the guide was not easily accessible, so I asked for directions from the volunteer bombieros. Wrong thing to do again as these guys know the way to the next town but only via the National routes and not the Camino paths. A word tomthe wise, when you get to metro station and see yellow arrows that uturn you back into town... follow them.

But with all this frustration came a two kisses from a lovely lady after she gave me directions and guided me until she had to turn while I needed to go straight.

So, in desperation after 90 minutes of trying to find my way in Pavoa of something or other to Beiriz and then Rates I found a cafe and asked for a taxi.

12 km later, I shamefully walked into the albergue in Rates, explained in my kindest voice and shamed looked that I had gotten lost, took a cab there, and would they allow me to still stay there. I also said I was hoping to walk in revsrse to Arcos tto complete most of the mileage for the day. And that's when one of my best Camino days started. Not only was the door not slammed on me but the hospitalero granbed my bag, took ot to a room himself and told me to settling in and that I would be sharing his lunch after Imcame back from my walk.

Apparently Rates only has hospitaleros on the weekends, but with thr Fatima May 13th holiday, this hospitalero added an extra day off from work and came to spend a long weekend to to some maintenance work on the place. After having shared the rice and grilled chicken his wife had prepared for him, with a bottle of vino verde, I was put on duty at the registration desk to welcome pilgrims while he continued working on the building for a while and then showered to do his hospitalero job. He showed me the technique they have to make beautiful red, black and white stamps in the credenciales with two stamps and a template, how to fill out the registration book, and off we went. Seeing the faces of exhausted people walking in, I remembered how I had felt when the fisrt thing the volunteeers at Guemes had done was to help me put my bag down and offered a glass of water, so that is what I did. Funny how something so simple earnes you smiles for hours after that.

Then I got a tour of the property, was gifted with a pin and Tshirt, invited to dinner at the local restaurant and then offered to stay alone in one of the rooms that were still available, including the use of a bedsheet! I ended up accepting since in the morning I had been scolded by German pilgrim for my snoring. The evening back at the albergue was mosy enjoyable, with someone playing guitar, port being served.

Only epic failure at the hospi gig was trying to figure out the washing cycle for the washing machine. Neither he nor I had a clue, so we picked one, and 2 hours later the anxious pilgrim's clothes were super clean but still had to dry as the sun was getting lower and lower in the sky... Why do they not have machines with cycles based on time. These fuzzy logic machines are not meant for albergues!

People were a bit confused this morning when they saw me walking out of the albergue and on the road with them, asking if my gig as hospitalera was over. Cannot recommend this albergue more. It was the first one in Portugal, still being run by volunteers, has a brandnew kitchen, lounge, backyard, washing machine (dryer is apparently on its way: a gift from a pilgrim no less!), a mini market 50 meters away and good homecooked meals at a ridiculous,y low price at the restaurant 300 meters up the street. It is a donativo, a real one, not on that charges 5 or 8€ as a donativo, so enjoy it and give generously, a house like that takes money to run, repair, etc., and the members of the Aasociation all put in long hours to provided to elbow grease to make it all happen with a smile and generous heart on top of it.

But of course I woke up to yet another day of rain, even if the forcast has initially said it would stop raining by uesterday. So it was time to pull out the rain pants, Altus poncho and umbrella, and off it was for a shortish 12 km or so to Barcelinos. PLEASE, never take the advice of anyone on this forum who tells you mot to plan for rain.

I am now at a very new and modern Amigos da Montanhas albergue in Barcelos, with wifi but no washer nor dryer, but apparently Fernanda does have a dryer so tomorrow will be laundry days to wash all these yucky smelling clothes worn under rain pants and altus poncho.

Off to see what Barcelos has to offer for lunch/dinner as it's 4:30 and breakfast at the family owned Antonio restaurant in Pedra Furada (a lovely stop with fado playing in the background) was hours and kms ago.

While checking people in yesterday I could not help but notice that 75% of the people are German, if not 80%, the rest being Dutch with a token Italian, me, and ... yup, think that was it! Tonight all that is spoken in the bunks around me is German. Very different than my last two outings on the Norte and Primitivo.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Today was one of those days during which, for no apparent reason you have to dig deep to make it. Left Barcelos a bit sad, wondering what I was doing on the Camino again. And yet the feet were fine, it was not hot, not raining, the albergue the night before perfectly fine and had even had dinner with a lovely Dutch couple at a sushi restaurant. One of those days. But having felt this before on the Norte I knew itmwould pass.

I am now at Casa Fernanda where the welcome was generous and warm. 10 of us in the annexe in the back yard, lots of German being spoken again.

Loving my Euroschrim umbrella, even without using the,special clips it can be carried handless. Rumoir has it the sun will come put tomorrow, but it's already 2 days late somwe'll justnhave to see.

Regarding the Amigos de Montanhas albergue, I wonder what this group is. I am wondering if it's not a fitness group of some sort that bought a house, built a gym in it and has decided to make a few € with the extr space. Imsay this because theynhave a fancy brand new van with their logo and all sorts of what appear to be sponsors' logos ...

 

[peregrina2000]

Hi Anemone,
Such great stories. Keep on trucking!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Great idea, maybe, from the Montanhas albergue: they have lots and lots of Crocs by the door where yoy have to leave your shoes. Not so great idea, but I imagine a legal requirement: the green exit/ emergency light on all night in the dorm.

 

[edumad]

Amigos da Montanha translates to "friends of the mountain". It is an association/club for outdoors sports (mostly). They do a lot of stuff around mountaineering, hill walking, mountain biking, canoing, and the like...
Today you'll be getting to Ponte de Lima I guess? Weather is expected to improve.
I recommend eating the arroz de sarrabulho and rojões à moda do Minho with some vinho verde. If lunch is in the plan for Ponte de Lima, at least stop at the Tasca das Fodinhas (too rude to translate), which also goes by the name Os telhadinhos, its near the roman bridge, on the south side of the river. Personal favourites: Suckling pig pastrie and octopus salad. If you want to go full portuguese order the pigs ear as well

Enjoy your camino.

 

[Mike Savage]

What a fantastic day it turned out to be!

Bom Caminho!

 

[Simon Buck]

Sounds wonderful! My wife and I are starting from Porto next month. How did you book Fernanda?
Simon

 

[Anemone del Camino]

You

Sounds wonderful! My wife and I are starting from Porto next month. How did you book Fernanda?
Simon

have to phone Fernanda ahead of time. I did frim home, some called a few days ago, getting lucky I suppose as it's still low season.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Sleeping bag liner MIA. I stupidly took it out of my pack upon arrival even if Fernada provides fully made beds and this morning at packing time it's gone. Guess today as I arrive to Ponte de Lima finding a laudry place and a bedsheet will be on the to-do list. Mind you, the sun is out, so maybe I won't need the laugdro-mat...

 

[Simon Buck]

You

have to phone Fernanda ahead of time. I did frim home, some called a few days ago, getting lucky I suppose as it's still low season.

Thanks! I have just booked for 15th June. Can't wait to get started. Burn Camino!

 

[Simon Buck]

That should have been Buen Camino!

 

[M&A]

This will be my 6th outing on the Camino: Frances over three trips, then the first third of the Norte, last spring the Primitivo. This year the plan the Porto to Santiago and then off to Muxia & Fisterra.

Never have I procrastinated so much in the planning! Booked my flight from Santiago back to Madrid last night, my room in Santiago for the night before this morning. And this is with all the talk of how busy things are and having seen weeks and weeks ago that San Martin Pinario was already booked. One thing is struggling to find an inexpensive bed, the other is waiting for the morning flight to Madrid to fill up. Where is my head?

I have 2 nights booked at the ViaPortuscale donativo in Porto, and Saturday night at Casa Fernanda. @Albertinho suggested I book early, and I did just that about a month ago. For the rest, guess we'll see.

Plan is walking to Matosinhos on the first day and come back to tne albergue, and the next days walk the coast to Vila de Conde. But the weather is crummy, so I guess I won't be getting sunburned walking on the boardwalk. From there it's in land. I toued with the idea of heading back out to the coast after Ponte de Lima ot Valenca, but I got tempted by the Spiritual, so the Coast may be left for next year.

I am looking forward to a Camino in a country where I do not know the language. It will be a different experience. And talk about procrastination... I had planned to be a good tourist and learn the basics to at least be polite and demonstrate I am making an effort. Well, I think I will be lucky if I order a cafe com leite and can say thank you. Pilgrim priorities. When I phone Fernanda's to reserve I spoke in English and when I told her my name she switched to beautifully spoken Fench. My first pleasant surprise of many to come I'm sure.

Bag got packed a few minutes ago. Panicked a bit last night looking for my new handsfree Euroschrimm umbrella I received as a bday present because it wasn't in the Camino closet. Yes, I have a Camino closet. When I find something during the year I will want to bring next time, in the closet it goes. Problem the closet is not lit and lots of tne stuff in it is black, so the umbrella was there, but hidding. Bag weighs 17.4 kg. Plus mini Ipad and I phone which I will carry with me on the plane.

I bring 200g. worth of foot/fasciitis items: a ball to roll under my foot, that funny sock that keeps your foot flexed at night and a second pair of orthotics as I have to switch between soft and hard during the day.

For the rain it's the umbrella, trousers and altus. Still wondering about the waterproof windbreaker, or can I get away with just the altus and the umbrella?

For sleeping I am repeating the permetryn sprayed tule but instread of the sleeping bag I have opted for my old liner and a duvet quilt.

Macabi is coming back for evening whole walking trousers dry, with leggings to be worn under it if chilly. They also serve as PJs. Pacers are also coming back.

The last big change will be shoes: leaving, I think, Albertinho says the weather is dreadful until Friday, behing my Gortex Salomons and opting for Bondi 3 Hoka One Ones. Wish I had found their Summit trekking shoes, waterproof, to try....

So tonight is a direct flight to Lisbon on Air Transat, and then Ryanaire to Porto at noon. Backpack in the hold for both legs, although I may try to take the backpack on baord for the second leg to see for myself what the status of Pacers is these days.

Well here goes back to doing the Camino like in the good old days before I learned of reservations a d bag transportation. I am not one who believes "the Camino provides" but one with a credit card and a Telus European phone plan so all will be good.

Flight in 4 hours!

This will be my 6th outing on the Camino: Frances over three trips, then the first third of the Norte, last spring the Primitivo. This year the plan the Porto to Santiago and then off to Muxia & Fisterra.

Never have I procrastinated so much in the planning! Booked my flight from Santiago back to Madrid last night, my room in Santiago for the night before this morning. And this is with all the talk of how busy things are and having seen weeks and weeks ago that San Martin Pinario was already booked. One thing is struggling to find an inexpensive bed, the other is waiting for the morning flight to Madrid to fill up. Where is my head?

I have 2 nights booked at the ViaPortuscale donativo in Porto, and Saturday night at Casa Fernanda. @Albertinho suggested I book early, and I did just that about a month ago. For the rest, guess we'll see.

Plan is walking to Matosinhos on the first day and come back to tne albergue, and the next days walk the coast to Vila de Conde. But the weather is crummy, so I guess I won't be getting sunburned walking on the boardwalk. From there it's in land. I toued with the idea of heading back out to the coast after Ponte de Lima ot Valenca, but I got tempted by the Spiritual, so the Coast may be left for next year.

I am looking forward to a Camino in a country where I do not know the language. It will be a different experience. And talk about procrastination... I had planned to be a good tourist and learn the basics to at least be polite and demonstrate I am making an effort. Well, I think I will be lucky if I order a cafe com leite and can say thank you. Pilgrim priorities. When I phone Fernanda's to reserve I spoke in English and when I told her my name she switched to beautifully spoken Fench. My first pleasant surprise of many to come I'm sure.

Bag got packed a few minutes ago. Panicked a bit last night looking for my new handsfree Euroschrimm umbrella I received as a bday present because it wasn't in the Camino closet. Yes, I have a Camino closet. When I find something during the year I will want to bring next time, in the closet it goes. Problem the closet is not lit and lots of tne stuff in it is black, so the umbrella was there, but hidding. Bag weighs 17.4 kg. Plus mini Ipad and I phone which I will carry with me on the plane.

I bring 200g. worth of foot/fasciitis items: a ball to roll under my foot, that funny sock that keeps your foot flexed at night and a second pair of orthotics as I have to switch between soft and hard during the day.

For the rain it's the umbrella, trousers and altus. Still wondering about the waterproof windbreaker, or can I get away with just the altus and the umbrella?

For sleeping I am repeating the permetryn sprayed tule but instread of the sleeping bag I have opted for my old liner and a duvet quilt.

Macabi is coming back for evening whole walking trousers dry, with leggings to be worn under it if chilly. They also serve as PJs. Pacers are also coming back.

The last big change will be shoes: leaving, I think, Albertinho says the weather is dreadful until Friday, behing my Gortex Salomons and opting for Bondi 3 Hoka One Ones. Wish I had found their Summit trekking shoes, waterproof, to try....

So tonight is a direct flight to Lisbon on Air Transat, and then Ryanaire to Porto at noon. Backpack in the hold for both legs, although I may try to take the backpack on baord for the second leg to see for myself what the status of Pacers is these days.

Well here goes back to doing the Camino like in the good old days before I learned of reservations a d bag transportation. I am not one who believes "the Camino provides" but one with a credit card and a Telus European phone plan so all will be good.

Flight in 4 hours!

 

[M&A]

Walked last 100km of the Portuguese Camino last Sept. Didn't have any Portuguese or Spanish. Got along ok though I would bring a Spanish phrase book if going on a Camino again.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Love these albergues with no WIFI, but it does mean irregular reporting.

The walk into and out of Ponte de Lima is pretty, and reminds me of the Frances, but much kinder or the feet. Got into Ponte de Lima quckly and opted for the juvenil as a Dutch guide said the muni did not have good drying facilities and it was high time for laundry.

The juvenil is some 500m from the center of town and has rooms of 4 in bunks and rooms of 2 in single beds. Sheets and blanket are provided. Our room had a small table and two chairs. Lotery win? Washing and drying by the lady for 5€, for 4 people!

In town there was a folklore festival and then mayhem as the Lisbone football team won a championship. Watching the celebrations one would have thought it was a local team winning. Great lunch of sanburinho was had at Sabores de Ponte de Lima (full portion is generous fir 2 people) and then a light dinner of bacalao beignets and tomato salad at
Encanada.

This morning the sun is out in force, on the day with a 400 m. elevation, and nothing for 10 km. Passed the Ponte de Lima market vendors setting up ( it's twice a week): the whole town was covered in stalls selling all sorts.

There is another breakfast place 50 m. off the road before the ones mentioned in Brierly.

Spending the night at the beautiful and uber welcoming El Ninho. It's the 300 year old family home, run by the young daughter, Marlene, with the help of her 3 month old puppy, Torga.

People, please, remember the pilgrim is grateful and does not make demands. Watched 5 pilgrims who had booked decide it was not good enough for them, but not wanting to look elsewhrere, then changing their mind, asking for calls to be made elsewhere, and rides given to see the other places. Really! I timed it: 40 minutes! The poor hospitalera was telling me how she was hoping they would just leave and we could have a quiet evening...

I have been here for over 2 hours, am showered, have done laundry, have been offered tea and cookies, and have not been asked to pay yet. Pure hospitality.

Restaurant for diner is 200 m. down the road. Birds are singing, clothes are drying, life is good!

Tomorrow: Spain.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

So sorry to hear that! Where are you headed to?

I have to say how much I enjoyed Fernanda. What a warm person, and hard working! Also loved watching how she manages pilgrims as they arrive to her house.

She had two friends there helping her with the meal. One gave me all sorts of tips for detours in Spain, but didn't write them down. He told me to call Fernanda and ask her for his phone number so he could tell me again. I will have to write tomher to thank her and then ask for his contact information for my next Camino.

We must have missed each other. We were in Ponte de Lima too yesterday. Had a drink at Sabores and checked our email. We fled for the football fans and their noice.
We came earlier than expected to the north due to the lousy weather in the south. Last thursday we still were in Sintra nearby Lisbon . Friday we went to Figueira da Foz along the coast . Boring place so decided to drive to Ponte de Lima where the weather is better. Today a quiet day on the camping here.
Bom caminho

 

[SabsP]

Anemone, glad you liked El NINHO : it was my favourite place on the Portugues. That girl is so nice! And yes we also did our washing, were served hot and cold beverages, cookies and only after some hours arranged our payment. Lovely souls there.

 

[Former member 22438]

So sorry to hear that! Where are you headed to?

I have to say how much I enjoyed Fernanda. What a warm person, and hard working! Also loved watching how she manages pilgrims as they arrive to her house.

She had two friends there helping her with the meal. One gave me all sorts of tips for detours in Spain, but didn't write them down. He told me to call Fernanda and ask her for his phone number so he could tell me again. I will have to write to her to thank her and then ask for his contact information for my next Camino.

We stay for about a week or so on the campingsite in Ponte de Lima.
We will give Fernanda a hand during some days and I have to go to Braga to have altered one of my musical instruments I bought there last Christmas when we were at Fernanda's too.
After that if the weather is okay we head direction Galicia and maybe drive one day to Fisterra. We have to find a camping close by ,maybe Pontevedra or so.
Then we follow the northern coast of Spain-camno del norte backwards by car
To France and spend some time playing golf around Bordeaux before going home where we are expected to be back end of june.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

@Albertinho , when you get to Fernanda's, please, do not forget to ask her to tell her friend Manuel that his tip,on meds for the Camino have completely changed things for me: thanks to his advice to switch to a fast acting Volatern at night vs a slow release in the morning I have been walking pain free, trully pain free for what must be the first time kn the Camino!

The walk from Rubiaes to Tui is very pleasant until you arrive to thr burbs of Valenca: rolling hills, a lot of shade, a bar every 4 km or so. The rest was a nightmare, mostly due to the hot sun. I thought I would arrive at the albergue de San Clemente, at the end of Tui, around 1:30... rolled in, very slowly around 4:30.

The albergue has a huge backyard, beds with clean mattress covers and duvets. Also, on top of the showers in the backyard, yes!, two full bathrooms with lots of water presure and room to keep your clothes dry while you shower.

150m. away is a restaurant that recently opened: Tui y Yo. Good food and drinks, and two pastries for breakfast tomorrow for 14 €.

As someone stole my liner a few days ago I have been looking for a bedsheet of some days and as I walked into the Fortaleza my heart skipped a beat: bed sheets! Bought one that will do the job just to realise 2 of every 3 shops sells bedding and towels(by the kg no less!). Very odd but pretty place.

As for the walk into Tui, unless you want to see the Cathedral or are staying in an albergue in the heights, just walk along the river and save yourselves the hike at the end of a long hot day.

Tomorrow is a short day, and one I hope will feel cooler as Spain is 1 hour ahead which will mean an extra hour of morning walking in cool weather until the heat catches up. No wonder people say Portugal's weather is hot: it's full sun an hour earlier.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Arrived in Porrino after a beautiful 17 km walk: sky is overcast, there is a breeze, the paths are lovely.

Do not worry about the info in Brierly, or the albergues for that matter, about the new detours that were put in in 2013 with people erasing the new arrows. It is all ver straight forward.

Not too sure Brierly has the cafes along the way correctly. Found one about 7 km out and then the Taberna, 3 km before Porrino. And there is another one maybe 10 km out, where the first alternative to the new route is, 600 meters further.

The town of Porrino also now offers a private albergue, I think it's called El Portugues. Modern, each bed hidden behind a thick curtain, lockers to put stuff away in. Showers with comfortable lukewarm water, upstairs an indoor terrace, sort if a kitchen for coffee and snacks, beds with clean sheets and blankets availabe. Each bed has its light and electric plug. 10 €, breakfast available for 4€.

Starting to see groups: a dozen young Germans this morning, 4 ladies all wearing the same kit this afternoon. But the Camino is still clean, except for the Correos flyers hanged from a tree who have been flying away.

I think my walking companions have gone further. Time to meet more Germans and Dutch I suppose. .

 

[SabsP]

Arrived in Porrino after a beautiful 17 km walk: sky is overcast, there is a breeze, the paths are lovely.

Do not worry about the info in Brierly, or the albergues for that matter, about the new detours that were put in in 2013 with people erasing the new arrows. It is all ver straight forward.

Not too sure Brierly has the cafes along the way correctly. Found one about 7 km out and then the Taberna, 3 km before Porrino. And there is another one maybe 10 km out, where the first alternative to the new route is, 600 meters further.

The town of Porrino also now offers a private albergue, I think it's called El Portugues. Modern, each bed hidden behind a thick curtain, lockers to put stuff away in. Showers with comfortable lukewarm water, upstairs an indoor terrace, sort if a kitchen for coffee and snacks, beds with clean sheets and blankets availabe. Each bed has its light and electric plug. 10 €, breakfast available for 4€.

Starting to see groups: a dozen young Germans this morning, 4 ladies all wearing the same kit this afternoon. But the Camino is still clean, except for the Correos flyers hanged from a tree who have been flying away.

I think my walking companions have gone further. Time to meet more Germans and Dutch I suppose. .

You are doing great! Tomorrow's etapa is a very nice one, walking through Mos. A tip for one of the next nights : the albergue La Jerezana in Cesantes.

 

[Deleted member 36903]

You are doing great! Tomorrow's etapa is a very nice one, walking through Mos. A tip for one of the next nights : the albergue La Jerezana in Cesantes.

I second that - La Jerezena is a lovely place to stay. Don't be put off by its proximity to the road, it is perfectly peaceful inside and in the garden.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

I second that - La Jerezena is a lovely place to stay. Don't be put off by its proximity to the road, it is perfectly peaceful inside and in the garden.

La Jerezana is booked for tomorrow! Thank you for the tip @SEB and @SabineP .

Any suggestions for a meal in Portino?

 

[Bala]

I'm thoroughly enjoying following your journey, Anemone. So much practical information, and a great spirit of joy! Looking forward to what comes next.

 

[SabsP]

La Jerezana is booked for tomorrow! Thank you for the tip @SEB and @SabineP .

Any suggestions for a meal in Portino?

Cannot remember the name but there is a good one next to casa consistorial.Main street.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

@SabineP , I think the place I ate may be the ine you mentiond: tomthe left of the cityhall, on a terrasse, with combinados starting at 3.50€ or so. Great find! Bacanarra, something like that.

Have I shared the story of my newly found favourite drink? Beer with red martini. Saw it offered on a counter in a bar in a little town in Portugal yesterday and decided to try it at dinner. In Tui thenchef knew what I was aking for, here, nit so much. But the up side is that for 1.25€ I got half a beer bottle with a full serving of Martini!

The Froiz supermarket here is very well stocked, it even has lentils which where nowhere to be found at the Lidl in Porto. Bought a large slice of chicken amd mushroom empanada for tomorrow morning: 2.07€!

I Think there are 8 of us in an albergue of a capacity of 50, if only they had windows I would be in heaven, but as there are so few of us a stuffy night may not be an issue, especially as the receptionist has put us is opposite corners to give us more privacy. I won the lottery today: I'm the inly person in a smaller area with two bunks, and alone. Not only is th bottom bunk mine but so is the chair .

 

[mralisn]

Hello Anemone,

It seems the both of us would get along fine as you also include food and drink into your posts. Very much appreciate this part of your Camino you are sharing.

Will start from Lisbon in a few weeks and will be following your steps after reaching Porto.

Keep enjoying every step,
Simeon

 

[SabsP]

@SabineP , I think the place I ate may be the ine you mentiond: tomthe left of the cityhall, on a terrasse, with combinados starting at 3.50€ or so. Great find! Bacanarra, something like that.

Have I shared the story of my newly found favourite drink? Beer with red martini. Saw it offered on a counter in a bar in a little town in Portugal yesterday and decided to try it at dinner. In Tui thenchef knew what I was aking for, here, nit so much. But the up side is that for 1.25€ I got half a beer bottle with a full serving of Martini!

The Froiz supermarket here is very well stocked, it even has lentils which where nowhere to be found at the Lidl in Porto. Bought a large slice of chicken amd mushroom empanada for tomorrow morning: 2.07€!

I Think there are 8 of us in an albergue of a capacity of 50, if only they had windows I would be in heaven, but as there are so few of us a stuffy night may not be an issue, especially as the receptionist has put us is opposite corners to give us more privacy. I won the lottery today: I'm the inly person in a smaller area with two bunks, and alone. Not only is th bottom bunk mine but so is the chair .

Refreshing drink for sure!
Good to hear about the empanadas....homemade: the best. The resto I remembered ( google maps to the rescue ) is La Cueva. Doesn' t matter : seems you had a splendid night.
Nice also from the hospi to give you that privacy.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Slept like a baby last night, although perhaps due tomthe muscle relaxant I took as much as the comfy bed. Somthe first morning stretch was difficult as my brain was still filled with cobwebs. The road to Mos is ugly, but Mos is charming place. The walk from it to Redondela is pleasant, with some of the steepest inclunes I have ever walked on pavement: was I glad I was not going up the hill!

After a slice of tortilla I moved on to La Jerazana where I am the only pilgrim at past 3pm. Beds are comfy, showers out in the yard a reminder of the more traditional albergues. Apparently I can order dinner, but will see if anyone else arrives. They have 2 ypung people doing somesort of internship as tourism students; the man sleeping in the albergue with the pilgrims. A bit strange...

Tomorrow Pontevedra. Need to decide where to stay as the albergue is 1.5 km before the city and since It's a pretty city... Parador perhaps? While that may be exagerated a good dinner may be in the plans.

Time for a nap, if I can sleep over the noise the builders are making fixing up the other building on the property.

 

[Deleted member 36903]

Glad you find the albergue comfortable. There is also a shower in the main building. With regard to the Pontevedre. The albergue is listed by Brierley as being 1.5 km outside the city, but I think he may be overestimating here. I walked into the centre with a fellow pilgrim and it seemed an easy stroll. Other pilgrims stayed at a b&b there where they even had their laundry done for them. Don't miss the Santuaria da Peregrina, it has limited opening times but it is worth paying the small charge to climb to the dome at the top. I don't like heights but was able to do this. If you do decide to stay at the Parador, it is centrally located amidst the winding streets in a great setting and the Basilica de Santa Maria is only a five minute walk away at the top of the hill. Enjoy your visit. Buen camino!

 

[SabsP]

Anemone...yes you can use the interior bathroom!
When I was there last year there were six pilgrims and then a bunch of Scouts!
Regarding Pontevedra : the girl in Cesantes called us a pension in Pontevedra. Was very basic but clean.
Tip for delicious food in Pontevedra: Pulperia Fidel. Divine!!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Glad you find the albergue comfortable. There is also a shower in the main building. With regard to the Pontevedre. The albergue is listed by Brierley as being 1.5 km outside the city, but I think he may be overestimating here. I walked into the centre with a fellow pilgrim and it seemed an easy stroll. Other pilgrims stayed at a b&b there where they even had their laundry done for them. Don't miss the Santuaria da Peregrina, it has limited opening times but it is worth paying the small charge to climb to the dome at the top. I don't like heights but was able to do this. If you do decide to stay at the Parador, it is centrally located amidst the winding streets in a great setting and the Basilica de Santa Maria is only a five minute walk away at the top of the hill. Enjoy your visit. Buen camino!

Alas, the indoor shower is clogged and so outside it is! The albergue San Clemente in Tui also has outdoor showers.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

So, as I sit here alone, along a major road, but with the sun out to warm me up rhis evening, I thought I would take Brierly out to remember some points along the way I may not have covered as I was often without WIFI in the evenings.

One thing I have noticed, crossing into Spain, and after walking 500 m. in Spain (please keep in mind I am a Spanish citizen) is how we are!

I had dismissed posts about Portuguese friendliness, thinking yada yada, let's be PC and say the world is friendly, but boy oh boy are my compatriots a bunch of dry, grumpy, harsh folk! But let me talk about the Portuguese: hospis who were true hosts, caring, looking out for us, informing us. Kiss on the cheek from a woman in Povoa de Varzim after I got lost and she told me to follow her until she had to go a different direction, hopsi who should have sent me on walking offering to share his lunch with me instead. I cannot recall a lukewarm reception anywhere in Portugal, not in donativos, privates, restaurants, on the street, you name it.

Are the Spaniards tired of us Pilgrims? Have we become a comodity? I don't know, but I wish I could tell all the lovely Portuguese I shared a moment with on this Camino how lovely they are, and how they made this Caminho for me. This Caminho will be the one I remember for its people, south of the border .

Is it a beautiful walk? No. Is it a pretty walk? No. The most beautiful bits are like the ones in Spain you don't notice: walks through eucalyptus forests, along a stream. No big sky meseta, no walking in the clouds, no walking a top cliffs along the Norte. But it's a pilgrimage, not holiday, and walking, and what walking does to one's sould is the esssence of this pilgrimage (and yes, Santiago as well).

Never did I fear bedbugs, and not because I am presprayed, but because albergues are well taken care of and there are no masses walking through. But I am presprayed, and will spray again next time. ( My name is Anemone, I have a Camino Closet and I will walk the Camino again) .

Blue tiles: expected them on the outside of buildings, but in a church? In Barcelos, do pop in and visit the Igrja Matriz with its surprisng simplicity and use of the azulejos. Pasteis the nata: never miss an opportunity to have one, breakfast, second breakfast, lunch, snack or dinner, cold or warm. But don't look for lentils in Lidl in Porto - Spain has them though!

Walking the coast out of Porto: from what I had read I had much more romantic visions of small vendors grillong fish on the beach. Alas those selling fish on the beach must have paid a pretty penny for their standard prefab restaurant, and the ones I went into didn't serve anything out of the ordinary. Perhaps too early in the day for some? But I admire the work the government is doing to restore the sand dunes and the vegetation that grows in them. Reminded me of the coast of Zeeland a bit.

False detours: yup, spotted them on the day along the coast and heard it really got some people in a pickle. But the ones out of Tui are nothing to worry about.

So tomorrow is tourist day in Pontevedra, and decision time as well: continue the standard route or veer left to the Variante? But first where to eat? I am alone in this vicinty, and nothing looks very appetising. Where is the super market when you need it? A few slices of jamon serrano would do just fine!

 

[C clearly]

Nice discussion!

 

[Deleted member 36903]

I agree about the friendliness of the Portuguese people but remember the 'Sarria effect'. At Tui a there are large numbers of walkers/pilgrims who start from there because of the 100km qualifier for the Compostela. So suddenly there are crowds, and many of those people are from outside of Spain. I was surprised by how many times a friendly greeting to a fellow pilgrim was ignored, no matter which language I used. I think there is a temporary intensity after Tui that slowly diminishes as people who start from there get into their rhythm of walking and stop feeling anxious, but in some cases it results in a brusqueness of communication. As for the people in shops, albergues, Pensions etc., I had several instances of kindness, albeit from folks who, in the first instance, appeared to be quite formal.

I disagree with you about it not being a pretty walk. If the Frances is about taking the time to smell the roses, the Portuguese had the attraction of smelling the wisteria, and travelling through the country on May 1st, there was the bonus of seeing wild flower wreaths adorning homes and public buildings.

Sorry Anemone not to suggest that you shop at the Eroski supermarket in town before walking to the albergue. I assumed - wrongly - that you would be eating at a restaurant there beforehand. There will be an Eroski in Pontevedre and they do washed bags of salad and bags with small individual containers - like those containing jam and butter for breakfast - of olive oil and of balsamic vinegar. This, with some bread, cheese and fresh strawberries made an excellent supper for four.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

travelling through the country on May 1st, there was the bonus of seeing wild flower wreaths adorning homes and public buildings.

the Eroski supermarket in town before walking to the albergue. I assumed - wrongly - that you would be eating at a restaurant there beforehand.

I wondered about the wreaths, especially since there was one a couple of stories high in Ponte de Lima. What did they celebrate?

As for an Eroski before Cersantes (sp?), I did not see anything resembling a grocery store after Redondela which, btw, is getting a new Mercadona at the end if the month.

 

[Deleted member 36903]

The wreaths were for Mothers' Day as was pointed out to me by a Portuguese peregrina, who also made wreaths for her and her companion to wear in their hair on that day. Where houses did not have wreaths, doors handles - even car windscreens - had a branch of broom threaded through. The Eroski supermarket was in the centre of Redondela, and opposite the Post Office for the benefit of any other pilgrims following this thread and walking the Portuguese. Tomorrow it is worth stopping at the cafe at Ponte Sampaio but, if sitting outside to admire the beautiful view beware of the constant traffic coming within centimetres of the tables and chairs, especially during the school run. The lemon cake at the cafe is excellent. Thank you for taking the time to share your experiences. it prompts lots or recollections.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Have just come across a "dark nook": the bus driver back to my albergue for the night.

Since I could not find a bed in Pontevedra I asked to stay a second night in Cesantes. I buy my bus ticket back and ask the bus driver if he can drop me off at the stop by this very well signed bar in Cesantes. The ... tells me I have ro ring the bell at the previous stop because his job is not to know the stops/route. I told him I knew he could obviously tell I am not local and do not know the route, but that I could gladly ring the bell after each stop I see along the way.

I am of half a mind to ask for one of thos comolaint sheets.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

To off set the bus driver ... a pilgrim came up to me in town hoping I could make a call for her to the albergue where she forgot her trousers on the drying line. The hospitalero offered to bring them to my albergue, or to town! But then said no to town as the lady is staying in a pedestrian street accomidation and he would not be able to get there easily. My place it is, but my bus back into town was at 15:50 and I would be leaving the albergue 20 minutes before.

Time rlls around and no trousers. I ask the girl at the albergue to let him know Inwould be at the bus stop. He rlled in 2 minutes before the bus was scheduled to be there! It's been a good day!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

BTW, there is a convent in Pontevedra with single cells for 20€, not in Brierley but in the German book.

 

[SabsP]

BTW, there is a convent in Pontevedra with single cells for 20€, not in Brierley but in the German book.

Yup..but closed for pilgrims last year September.

What an adventure for you today!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Yup..but closed for pilgrims last year September.

What an adventure for you today!

Well, it turned out to be closed for those calling to get a room after 5 pm even if there were rooms left because "what do they think is is, calling at 5 pm for a bed!?"

Guess the economy is picking up if you can afford to not let half your rooms ...

BTW, 2nd floor rooms have renovated batrooms which apparently have showers three times the size of the ones on the first floor.

 

[onwayhome]

So... leaving Vila do Conde, Brierly well packed away in my backpack. I decided I liked the shorter way follwing the aquaduct. Afterall, I wrote on the map in my guidebook the other option, through Junqueira, is not waymarked. WRONG! It's the way by the aquaduct that is not marked. So much for all the home planning before hitting the road. . And Brierly says you can still find your way if you have some sense of orientation, so either he is wrong or Imhave none.

Finding the aquaduct is simple, but you cannot follow it all as you would have to cross a heavily and fastly, if that was a correct word, road. And beeping too confident in my caminoing, the guide was not easily accessible, so I asked for directions from the volunteer bombieros. Wrong thing to do again as these guys know the way to the next town but only via the National routes and not the Camino paths. A word tomthe wise, when you get to metro station and see yellow arrows that uturn you back into town... follow them.

But with all this frustration came a two kisses from a lovely lady after she gave me directions and guided me until she had to turn while I needed to go straight.

So, in desperation after 90 minutes of trying to find my way in Pavoa of something or other to Beiriz and then Rates I found a cafe and asked for a taxi.

12 km later, I shamefully walked into the albergue in Rates, explained in my kindest voice and shamed looked that I had gotten lost, took a cab there, and would they allow me to still stay there. I also said I was hoping to walk in revsrse to Arcos tto complete most of the mileage for the day. And that's when one of my best Camino days started. Not only was the door not slammed on me but the hospitalero granbed my bag, took ot to a room himself and told me to settling in and that I would be sharing his lunch after Imcame back from my walk.

Apparently Rates only has hospitaleros on the weekends, but with thr Fatima May 13th holiday, this hospitalero added an extra day off from work and came to spend a long weekend to to some maintenance work on the place. After having shared the rice and grilled chicken his wife had prepared for him, with a bottle of vino verde, I was put on duty at the registration desk to welcome pilgrims while he continued working on the building for a while and then showered to do his hospitalero job. He showed me the technique they have to make beautiful red, black and white stamps in the credenciales with two stamps and a template, how to fill out the registration book, and off we went. Seeing the faces of exhausted people walking in, I remembered how I had felt when the fisrt thing the volunteeers at Guemes had done was to help me put my bag down and offered a glass of water, so that is what I did. Funny how something so simple earnes you smiles for hours after that.

Then I got a tour of the property, was gifted with a pin and Tshirt, invited to dinner at the local restaurant and then offered to stay alone in one of the rooms that were still available, including the use of a bedsheet! I ended up accepting since in the morning I had been scolded by German pilgrim for my snoring. The evening back at the albergue was mosy enjoyable, with someone playing guitar, port being served.

Only epic failure at the hospi gig was trying to figure out the washing cycle for the washing machine. Neither he nor I had a clue, so we picked one, and 2 hours later the anxious pilgrim's clothes were super clean but still had to dry as the sun was getting lower and lower in the sky... Why do they not have machines with cycles based on time. These fuzzy logic machines are not meant for albergues!

People were a bit confused this morning when they saw me walking out of the albergue and on the road with them, asking if my gig as hospitalera was over. Cannot recommend this albergue more. It was the first one in Portugal, still being run by volunteers, has a brandnew kitchen, lounge, backyard, washing machine (dryer is apparently on its way: a gift from a pilgrim no less!), a mini market 50 meters away and good homecooked meals at a ridiculous,y low price at the restaurant 300 meters up the street. It is a donativo, a real one, not on that charges 5 or 8€ as a donativo, so enjoy it and give generously, a house like that takes money to run, repair, etc., and the members of the Aasociation all put in long hours to provided to elbow grease to make it all happen with a smile and generous heart on top of it.

But of course I woke up to yet another day of rain, even if the forcast has initially said it would stop raining by uesterday. So it was time to pull out the rain pants, Altus poncho and umbrella, and off it was for a shortish 12 km or so to Barcelinos. PLEASE, never take the advice of anyone on this forum who tells you mot to plan for rain.

I am now at a very new and modern Amigos da Montanhas albergue in Barcelos, with wifi but no washer nor dryer, but apparently Fernanda does have a dryer so tomorrow will be laundry days to wash all these yucky smelling clothes worn under rain pants and altus poncho.

Off to see what Barcelos has to offer for lunch/dinner as it's 4:30 and breakfast at the family owned Antonio restaurant in Pedra Furada (a lovely stop with fado playing in the background) was hours and kms ago.

While checking people in yesterday I could not help but notice that 75% of the people are German, if not 80%, the rest being Dutch with a token Italian, me, and ... yup, think that was it! Tonight all that is spoken in the bunks around me is German. Very different than my last two outings on the Norte and Primitivo.[/QUOT

So... leaving Vila do Conde, Brierly well packed away in my backpack. I decided I liked the shorter way follwing the aquaduct. Afterall, I wrote on the map in my guidebook the other option, through Junqueira, is not waymarked. WRONG! It's the way by the aquaduct that is not marked. So much for all the home planning before hitting the road. . And Brierly says you can still find your way if you have some sense of orientation, so either he is wrong or Imhave none.

Finding the aquaduct is simple, but you cannot follow it all as you would have to cross a heavily and fastly, if that was a correct word, road. And beeping too confident in my caminoing, the guide was not easily accessible, so I asked for directions from the volunteer bombieros. Wrong thing to do again as these guys know the way to the next town but only via the National routes and not the Camino paths. A word tomthe wise, when you get to metro station and see yellow arrows that uturn you back into town... follow them.

But with all this frustration came a two kisses from a lovely lady after she gave me directions and guided me until she had to turn while I needed to go straight.

So, in desperation after 90 minutes of trying to find my way in Pavoa of something or other to Beiriz and then Rates I found a cafe and asked for a taxi.

12 km later, I shamefully walked into the albergue in Rates, explained in my kindest voice and shamed looked that I had gotten lost, took a cab there, and would they allow me to still stay there. I also said I was hoping to walk in revsrse to Arcos tto complete most of the mileage for the day. And that's when one of my best Camino days started. Not only was the door not slammed on me but the hospitalero granbed my bag, took ot to a room himself and told me to settling in and that I would be sharing his lunch after Imcame back from my walk.

Apparently Rates only has hospitaleros on the weekends, but with thr Fatima May 13th holiday, this hospitalero added an extra day off from work and came to spend a long weekend to to some maintenance work on the place. After having shared the rice and grilled chicken his wife had prepared for him, with a bottle of vino verde, I was put on duty at the registration desk to welcome pilgrims while he continued working on the building for a while and then showered to do his hospitalero job. He showed me the technique they have to make beautiful red, black and white stamps in the credenciales with two stamps and a template, how to fill out the registration book, and off we went. Seeing the faces of exhausted people walking in, I remembered how I had felt when the fisrt thing the volunteeers at Guemes had done was to help me put my bag down and offered a glass of water, so that is what I did. Funny how something so simple earnes you smiles for hours after that.

Then I got a tour of the property, was gifted with a pin and Tshirt, invited to dinner at the local restaurant and then offered to stay alone in one of the rooms that were still available, including the use of a bedsheet! I ended up accepting since in the morning I had been scolded by German pilgrim for my snoring. The evening back at the albergue was mosy enjoyable, with someone playing guitar, port being served.

Only epic failure at the hospi gig was trying to figure out the washing cycle for the washing machine. Neither he nor I had a clue, so we picked one, and 2 hours later the anxious pilgrim's clothes were super clean but still had to dry as the sun was getting lower and lower in the sky... Why do they not have machines with cycles based on time. These fuzzy logic machines are not meant for albergues!

People were a bit confused this morning when they saw me walking out of the albergue and on the road with them, asking if my gig as hospitalera was over. Cannot recommend this albergue more. It was the first one in Portugal, still being run by volunteers, has a brandnew kitchen, lounge, backyard, washing machine (dryer is apparently on its way: a gift from a pilgrim no less!), a mini market 50 meters away and good homecooked meals at a ridiculous,y low price at the restaurant 300 meters up the street. It is a donativo, a real one, not on that charges 5 or 8€ as a donativo, so enjoy it and give generously, a house like that takes money to run, repair, etc., and the members of the Aasociation all put in long hours to provided to elbow grease to make it all happen with a smile and generous heart on top of it.

But of course I woke up to yet another day of rain, even if the forcast has initially said it would stop raining by uesterday. So it was time to pull out the rain pants, Altus poncho and umbrella, and off it was for a shortish 12 km or so to Barcelinos. PLEASE, never take the advice of anyone on this forum who tells you mot to plan for rain.

I am now at a very new and modern Amigos da Montanhas albergue in Barcelos, with wifi but no washer nor dryer, but apparently Fernanda does have a dryer so tomorrow will be laundry days to wash all these yucky smelling clothes worn under rain pants and altus poncho.

Off to see what Barcelos has to offer for lunch/dinner as it's 4:30 and breakfast at the family owned Antonio restaurant in Pedra Furada (a lovely stop with fado playing in the background) was hours and kms ago.

While checking people in yesterday I could not help but notice that 75% of the people are German, if not 80%, the rest being Dutch with a token Italian, me, and ... yup, think that was it! Tonight all that is spoken in the bunks around me is German. Very different than my last two outings on the Norte and Primitivo.

What a great Camino adventure -thank you. Have just walked the Vila do conde to rates section and I agree, it's tricky following the aqueduct out of VdoC. Fortunately it's easy to see but weaves around some big and busy roads. The Brierley directions worked well for me once I was beyond this part. (There's none of the familiar and comforting Camino way marking anywhere along here). I was even invited in to an impromptu and moving Fado session by a Beiriz cafe family. The route feels very off Camino even though it's a very helpful connection from the coastal to inland routes.

 

[Anemone del Camino]

Took the variante today, and what a nice change it is. Actually had to pull out my poles at one point to climb up a super steep and narrow way (short though): without the poles I would have never been able to climb up. There ks then a very woodsy area, a bit creepy actually, before making it back to civilisation heading tomthe stunning Poio monastery. Pay the 1.50€ and take the time to visit the two cloisters and the church.

Combarro is a lovely fishing village..

My zamburinas have just arrived (restaurant A Fonte by the Armenteira Monastery: I Think one of the shells will make it in my backpack.). More later.

It's 6pm, raining outside, still sitting at A Fonte, waiting for the 7pm vespers, and the restaurant is happy to have us here drinking orujo. 3 types of orujo: de hierba, aged de hierba and coffee. Oh, we may be singing out of tune!

Something else about this route: no snails are murdered, no slogs sqwashed, no loo paper to be seen!

 

[Anemone del Camino]

The variante has probably been what will make this Camino for me. It has some spectacular parts: the Poio monastry, Combarro, the Armentia monastery (asked if one could stay there was was told no) and then the beautiful movie set-like walk down in the woods folowing the cascading river flanked by old mills. It is picture perfect, in the shade, downhill, but like so many places on other Caminos a bit technical as to where you place your feet in order not to trip and fall. Loved it.

Then it is through residential areas with a bit of €. When I asked where the € came from, thinking fishing, Imwas told smuggling! Lots of cigarette and alcohol smuggling apparently happened in the 80s and 90s. The walk down the the beach at last, with the scent of the see, and a night spent in a sports complexe where a ballroom dancing competition was being held.

The boat, its schedule... Ha! I called from the albergue in Armenteira to find out if I needed to rush or not. Was told their was no boat on Sunday, and that on Monday it would leave at 9am. Perfect! Get to the albergue and the hospi says 2pm. Ugh? I tell him there must be some sort of mistake: what number did I call, he asks. Apparently not the one of the person he deals with, and he proceeds to tell me there are a number of people making this trip. Oh really!?

So then a fellow walker appears with the news that the boat is leaving at 9 after all. Interesting. I asked the hospi how the tide forcasr could have changed so much so fast ... Apparently the guy the albergue works with has two boats, and the hard bottom one can leave when the tide is lower. Really? Funny how that works.

To be fair, the boat we took, at 9am, only carries 10 people. I think the one I have seen in photos is for 16. So as we were a small group perhaps we got lucky. Or perhaps the man the albergue works with decided not to let the other captain get the day's earnings after all .

FYI, and this may be a deal breaker for some, and really should have been for me: NO LIFEJACKETS on the boat! And that water is not Carribean waters temps, especially not at this time of the year.

Ah, and then there is the matter of food in Vilanova de Arousa. Hospi recommends the Meson Timon. It's Spanish fast food, lots of frozen dishes, quite expensive and ordinary quality. I would try another.

The boat ride was COLD!!! Never loved my altus as much as I did today. It was 11 degrees, and then you had to take in the windshield factor. Cold! Too cold to take pics so I am hoping my fellow passengers will share some of theirs with me.

Find of the day: retaurant Xantes Galegos on the national in Picarana, just before Teo. Huge ensalada mixta, with cheese, melon, sardines! YUM. And 5€. A glass of wine was 1€. Ok, they don't fill it to thr rim like Portuguese do but just wonderful. The rest of the menu del dia also looked very good. One for Camino Places for sure.

But then there's the pilgrim office... I wanted its stamp before I moved on to Fisterra/Muxia. Nice security guy tells me that if I don't want the Compostela I don't have to wait in line, and he took me in. Apparently people wer being told the waiting time for a Compostela was 3 hours. I could not believe it as the queue did not seem that long (sorry, you still have to queue standing on your sore feet , but then I understood why: they only had 3 people working the desks! 3! Clearly in need of more volunteers.

But then there was my volunteer. Cranky because I had been taken in a different way. Incredulous that I didn't want a Compostela. I explained I did not qualify for it because I had taken the boat to Padron this morning. "That is imlossible!" she said. According to her there was no boat. I explained that there is a boat. No there isn't she insisted. But then she said "well, if you did you don't qualify" - " I know that" I told her, "I already explained that to you, I only want the sello". But why?, she asks, because I have arrived here, just as I have arrived anywhere else where I have gotten sellos and carimbos, and because I want to mark Santiago as the start of my next 100km to Fisterra/Muxia". So I was givien not one stamp but two, that take the space of two squares: one with the date, one with the name of the pilgrims office. Not the one with the statue of Santiago: "That's what you get since you didn't want to qualify for a Compostela". What a dear she is. I walked back to PilgrimHouse where I had left my bag and got one of their lovely stamps on top of the one from the Pilgrims' Office.

Door of Mercy: noone queing to go through it, and those who did clearly had no idea of its meaning, Sad really ...

Dinner is served. More tomorrow, after walking in the rain.

 

[Deleted member 36903]

Thank you for providing so much detail of your travels. I am so envious of your being able to do the Variante Espiritual. A Spanish pilgrim I met up with on several occasions also had an off/on itinerary plan involving the boat from Vilanova de Arousa, it was cancelled because of weather and then she was telephoned at short notice to say it was okay to travel after all. Commiserations for your experience in the Pilgrim Office. Other forum members have previously posted that the Variante with boat trip does qualify you for the Compostela. Enjoy your walk to Muxia.