Bad Pilgrim
Veteran Member
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Yes
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Please do tellAs an aside, the albergue there is one of the reasons I now opt for private rooms if possible...although that was in 2016, so a lot may have changed with the albergue (and I hope it has).
I understand that! I just took a walk next to the sea, watched the boats and the fishies, now relaxing in the cafés. Lots of tourists. And more pilgrims (visibly) here than in Puente la Reina a week ago!San Vicente is one of my favourite pueblos in Spain.
Yep, too crowded (beds close together and a lot of them), not maintained, unfriendly hospitaleros at the time...I just looked at my travel journal to see if it said anything about why I have a bad memory of it, and apparently the hospitaleros yelled at people who arrived before 15:30 (even if we didn't have any problems waiting until then), and only two showers worked, uncomfortable beds, but at least there weren't any bed bugs.Please do tell... Apart from too many people: not well maintained?
I understand that! I just took a walk next to the sea, watched the boats and the fishies, now relaxing in the cafés. Lots of tourists. And more pilgrims (visibly) here than in Puente la Reina a week ago!
As an aside, the albergue there is one of the reasons I now opt for private rooms if possible...
Yes! It was near the castle. That might actually be how I saw the sunset from the castle. One of my fave moments of the Norte. I don't think they had a communal dinner when I was there. I don't remember anything about breakfast. I'm glad you had a better experience the second time though and it was somewhat redeemed. For whatever reason, I just have strong memories of not liking that one.I had a very awful experience there, but it was in 2006, when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony. I was the only one of our group of five to understand, and I didn’t translate! But then we were scolded mightily when we declined the communal dinner — our three German friends were leaving from San Vicente the next morning and we had walked with them for several weeks. We just wanted something together and without communal chit chat and soul baring. But we were given pretty bad treatment, so bad that we just left the next morning without breakfast.
I also had a good experience at that albergue, with the same hospitalero several years later! At that point it was the only game in town for me as I was bearing off onto the Lebañiego/Vadiniense like BP is doing! I think it was because I offered to translate all of the dire warnings about the next day’s stage on the Norte, having to do with a traffic circle and busy road. I wasn’t going that way, so I didn’t really have to pay attention, just translate the words. Ah, the memories!
p.s. Edited to add — I just checked on Gronze, and there is no albergue listed there anymore and other websites say that it’s closed. @setmeravelles, was this place up near the castle? Lots of dampness and models of boats all around?
Buen camino, BP! How did you get from Aguilar to San Vicente?
I for one can’t wait to hear BP’s updates, because things have changed since I walked. They’ve lengthened the route to get people off the road on the first day, with a stage proposed to end in Cades, which wasn’t there when I walked. And then there is also a good way to avoid the death-defying walk into Potes on a narrow and extremely busy road. It’s spectacular scenery, going through a gorge and all that, but with no shoulder it was very hard to enjoy. So I’m interested to hear how it goes, BP!One of these times I'm going to get to the Lebaniego/Vadiniense...
That's what I always knew about you, Laurie!when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony.
Well Gronze scares the bejesus out of me by saying it's the hardest Camino of all the Spanish Caminos. If I stop posting, call the Guardia Civil...I for one can’t wait to hear BP’s updates, because things have changed since I walked. They’ve lengthened the route to get people off the road on the first day, with a stage proposed to end in Cades, which wasn’t there when I walked. And then there is also a good way to avoid the death-defying walk into Potes on a narrow and extremely busy road. It’s spectacular scenery, going through a gorge and all that, but with no shoulder it was very hard to enjoy. So I’m interested to hear how it goes, BP!
It's all cloudy here, just as it was on those places on the Camino Catalán that are famous for their sunsets (like Arrés? for some reason). I don't have any luck with sunsets this year...Yes! It was near the castle. That might actually be how I saw the sunset from the castle. One of my fave moments of the Norte. I don't think they had a communal dinner when I was there. I don't remember anything about breakfast. I'm glad you had a better experience the second time though and it was somewhat redeemed. For whatever reason, I just have strong memories of not liking that one.
One of these times I'm going to get to the Lebaniego/Vadiniense...
I will have to disagree. The stages in the Picos are BEAUTIFUL and tough, but there are other caminos with harder ascents than what I remember from the camino you are going to start. Like the Olvidado. The stage from Potes to Fuente Dé and Fuente Dé to the pass at Pandetrave are gobsmackingly beautiful (I won’t spoil it for you with pictures). After the pass you have a lot of downhill and a lot of asphalt. Things pick up mountain-wise again around Cistierna, for a day or so. I had heard that the local association was going to re-route some of the stages because from Riaño to Mansilla is along the Esla river, which is nice, but is a lot of asphalt.Well Gronze scares the bejesus out of me by saying it's the hardest Camino of all the Spanish Caminos.
My guess is that they are hikers and others who want to enjoy the same mountain splendor that you do! Sorry to hear that, BP.The albergue in Lafuente is completo tomorrow
I had a very awful experience there, but it was in 2006, when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony.
Well you'll just have to stoke your engines with some extra napolitanas on your waybout of town, and hope for the best.Gronze scares the bejesus out of me by saying it's the hardest Camino of all the Spanish Caminos
I have had a few similar experiences like the one you have mentioned. As soon as someone starts in I tell them you have no idea who I am, what I believe, who or what organizations I support, you know nothing of my character so before you waste any more of your sanctimonious breath tell it to someone who may actually give a S##t and want to hear your cr@p. I can't see you ever saying that but then again we only know each other by messages, but it works for meI had a very awful experience there, but it was in 2006, when I was accused of being an imperialist by the hospitalero because of my nationality, along with a lecture about hegemony. I was the only one of our group of five to understand, and I didn’t translate! But then we were scolded mightily when we declined the communal dinner — our three German friends were leaving from San Vicente the next morning and we had walked with them for several weeks. We just wanted something together and without communal chit chat and soul baring. But we were given pretty bad treatment, so bad that we just left the next morning without breakfast.
I also had a good experience at that albergue, with the same hospitalero several years later! At that point it was the only game in town for me as I was bearing off onto the Lebañiego/Vadiniense like BP is doing! I think it was because I offered to translate all of the dire warnings about the next day’s stage on the Norte, having to do with a traffic circle and busy road. I wasn’t going that way, so I didn’t really have to pay attention, just translate the words. Ah, the memories!
p.s. Edited to add — I just checked on Gronze, and there is no albergue listed there anymore and other websites say that it’s closed. @setmeravelles, was this place up near the castle? Lots of dampness and models of boats all around?
Buen camino, BP! How did you get from Aguilar to San Vicente?
LT, it looks like it’s closed. At least that’s what our dear lower case “LT” saysThe municipal has been replaced by this private albergue that has received excellent reviews on Gronze.com
p.s. I've stayed in the albergue in San Vicente de la Barquera twice and never had a problem (before and after its reopening). I think that you guys might be the problem
I walked Lebaniego and Vadiniense two separate times. I enjoyed very much and if you want to stay Riaño, I Recommend for booking a head of time. I couldn’t find any room because it was on Saturday so I walked to Crémenes it about 40km. Enjoy your Camino and Buen Camino.Day 0: San Vicente de la Barquera
This morning I left Aguilar de Campoo (on another Camino) to travel to San Vicente de la Barquera. I will walk the Camino Vadiniense from here to Mansilla de las Mulas. About 8-10 days I think.
Last time I was in San Vicente was 13 years ago on the Camino del Norte. I didn't visit the town then as I didn't stay the night here. So it's a brand new place for me to discover! I've been walking in different parts of Spain for more than three weeks now and this is the first time I smell the air of the sea... It's refreshing.
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I stay at Hostal Tapuca, 45 euros, because a cramped municipal albergue on the Camino del Norte is not for me. Seems I will be staying in albergues for the next two days though since accommodation on the Vadiniense is somewhat limited...
I will be posting about my journey here, if anyone's interested. You're invited to follow!
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Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I don't know what day I'll be in Riaño or if I'll even stay there: I just look one day ahead... As it's Friday today I don't think it'll be the weekend though.I walked Lebaniego and Vadiniense two separate times. I enjoyed very much and if you want to stay Riaño, I Recommend for booking a head of time. I couldn’t find any room because it was on Saturday so I walked to Crémenes it about 40km. Enjoy your Camino and Buen Camino.
Everyone is gushing about the views on this Camino, but what if it keeps raining like today?! I hope you'll have better weather than me when you walk!I'm also looking forward to hearing about your experience. It just may be my next Camino
Oh! It must be the one I dodged because of the weather. I was off Camino from approximately Muñorrodero until Cades. The official Camino goes along the river for a while. Gronze says you can even extend the river walk and stay on it longer on your way to Cades. But the extended walk is not suitable in rain they say. Well, my opinion is that no part of the river walk is manageable in rain... But maybe I'm just one feeble pilgrim!but I bet the “new” route to Cades is much more beautiful.
Hope the weather improves for you. Being in the mountains and having it rain would make us all feeble pilgrims.Oh! It must be the one I dodged because of the weather. I was off Camino from approximately Muñorrodero until Cades. The official Camino goes along the river for a while. Gronze says you can even extend the river walk and stay on it longer on your way to Cades. But the extended walk is not suitable in rain they say. Well, my opinion is that no part of the river walk is manageable in rain... But maybe I'm just one feeble pilgrim!
Did you get licked? They love salt, and those tongues are something else.cows not afraid of humans!
No, I kept my distance! They were cute though.Did you get licked? They love salt, and those tongues are something else.
It's the best way to prepare for Misa, I think!I'm already sold on this Camino.
Greetings from the Cathedral de Santiago. Reading your post while waiting for la Misa de Peregrinos to start as I missed it on the day I arrived.
I am gobsmacked, to use Laurie's term, by this stage! The massive Picos de Europa look good in the sunshine! Now I know where in Spain I want to buy a home... Or put up a lucrative café
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That’s a good question. I think that the mountain stages of the Vadiniense/Lebaniego are more spectacular (the area around Fuente Dé and Potes is higher and more majestic than even those days from Vegacervera), but there are fewer mountain stages in the overall Vadiniense/Lebaniego than in the Olvidado. On the Lebaniengo/Vadiniense, the mountains are condensed more in the beginning of the walk, while the mountain stages in the Olvidado come mostly in the second half, after Aguilar de Campóo. And I personally think the flatter parts of the Olvidado (Bilbao to Aguilar) are more interesting and beautiful than the flatter parts that come after the Pandetrave pass. But I would happily walk either again! I have heard scattered comments that the Vadiniense has been re-routed, so I am looking forward to seeing what BP finds.When all is said and done, it will be interesting to hear how this Camino compares to the Olvidado.
Yes I saw the pictures of your wounded/bloody legs in that thread! (Because you're talking about Arija - Olea, right?) I thought about that when I did that stage. By now there is an improvised opening, sort of, in the barbed wire. A couple of 100 mtrs later there is a proper gate. You can read about how I experienced that stage if you find it interesting...Oh some of your adventure sounds much like a few stages for me on the Olvidado last year. In spite of my following Cuñarro's (Enderjace) Wikiloc tracks I managed to loose the trail and had to find my way through bush, ending up with bloody calves. When walking alone you can only bitch at yourself
The Vadiniense is short compared to the Levante. Maybe you can squeeze in the Vadiniense at the end of the Levante (with a bit of travelling)?You're making me reconsider my Camino de Levante this fall and doing this one instead. Amazing pics. Thanks for sharing!
4: Espinama - Portilla de la Reina, 26 kms
Paolo the Italian and I tried to sleep in our dorm as the 20 Spaniards were screaming and howling at the Eurocup (football) all through the evening. The girl at the reception must have foreseen this as she put us in a separate dorm. Where in the building the poor Belgian girl ended up I do not know but I hope it was far away from a TV.
This morning I wanted to visit the village of Fuente Dé, which is partially encircled by the vertical cliffs at the bottom of Picos de Europa. Gronze says it's possible to skip Fuente Dé, but the girl at the reception in Espinama said it's a must.
Fuente Dé is a modern place centered around the country road, but the location at the feet of the mountain is awesome. The restaurant at the parador is open 24 hours so I went there for breakfast. I walked right into the buffet destined for the fancy guests at the parador and felt totally out of place. But I could eventually order toasts and a café con leche from the friendly waitress. After all, I can't be the only pilgrim or hiker stumbling into that restaurant in the morning.
From Fuente Dé the Camino slowly rises through the forest and the pastures until you see the mountains in all their glory. Except for one or two spots the ascent is gradual and not difficult at all. No rocks, no mud, no roots, just a broad dirt road that is very comfortable to walk on. The whole stage should be easy to do by bike, all the way from Espinama to Portilla de la Reina. But strangely enough I didn't see any cyclists.
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It was a 5-star day. I never walked a stage like this on any Camino. I don't know what to say. My only complaint is that the mountains don't fit into my camera:
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I soon reached the highest point on a Camino in Spain: about 1.800 mtrs at Horcada de Valcavao. I fought against the winds at the top as I marvelled at the panoramic views.
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From here and down to Portilla the mountains became considerably less sharp; more rounded and greener. I had entered Castilla-León, in the province of León, on this stage. From now on the terrain will become flatter all the way to Mansilla de las Mulas on the Camino Francés. The silhouette of the Picos de Europa can actually be seen from the Camino Francés as you approach León, as fellow pilgrims pointed them out to me when I walked my first Camino.
I met an extended group of about 40 day hikers walking in the opposite direction, towards Horcada de Valcavao, and after that I saw their tourist bus conveniently waiting for them at Puerto de Pandetrave (at about 1.600 mtrs). From there I walked the remaining 11 kms on asphalt on a road that gently led me down to the albergue in Portilla de la Reina. A private room with bathroom, aah!! 37 euros (breakfast included) and it's worth every penny of it.
Tomorrow: a baby stage of 20 kms to Riaño.
View attachment 174687Wow!!!! your photos are more gorgeous than mine which used iphone14+.
There are the so-called "mountain stages" on the Olvidado, that are optional. But I walked the regular stages so I don't know about them. Although I cannot believe that a few one-day alternative routes on the Olvidado ever get close to something that looks like the Cantabrian mountains. People who walked the mountain stages on the Olvidado must tell me if I'm wrong.These photos are absolutely incredible!
You are seriously making me rethink my choice for next year.
Those of you who have done both, how does this compare to the Olvidado? Is the latter even close to this scenic?
I had planned to walk the Olvidado from Bilbao, now I'm wondering if I should stay on the Norte until San Vicente de la Barquera, then take the Vadiniese until it joins the Olvidado in Cistierna.
Opinions?
Then you are using iPhone as well? I am using iPhone 14 pro, but your photos are amazing. Maybe dependes on who use??@Juliana K Yeah I bought a new phone for this Camino and it was a good choice. Pictures turn out good in the sun! But as soon as it's cloudy they become less sharp. I took fotos of Fuente Dé this morning but they all turned out gloomy.
No, I have a smartphone (Google). But as I bought it right before my trip to Spain I asked for a good camera function!Then you are using iPhone as well? I am using iPhone 14 pro, but your photos are amazing. Maybe dependes on who use??
The Vadiniense is short compared to the Levante. Maybe you can squeeze in the Vadiniense at the end of the Levante (with a bit of travelling)?
See my initial reaction in post # 34 above. Maybe a separate thread would be a good idea so we don’t interfere too much with the flow of BP’s wonderful posts!Those of you who have done both, how does this compare to the Olvidado? Is the latter even close to this scenic?
So glad you had beautiful weather, BP!!!
I would go so far as to say that this day is the absolutely most glorious day of any camino I have walked. I was sorely tempted to stay for a few days in Fuente Dé to do some of the millions of day hikes that explore all of this area. There are sign boards all around that indicate some of the many trails. Walkers paradise, that’s for sure. Years ago, our family took the funicular up to the top and followed a couple of those trails, and I would say that yes, they were gobsmacking!
And to make things better in terms of ease of access, the path for this stage itself is totally graded and wide enough for a car to drive (this is because originally there was going to be a road put in from Fuente Dé to Puerto de Pandetrave) and the ascent itself is not steep. Those two things may not be a benefit for more hard core hikers, but it did mean you could just concentrate on the beauty all around you!
In terms of making it longer, one option would be the Castellano-Lebaniego which starts in Palencia, intersects with the Olvidado at Cervera, and winds up at the monastery. And then continue on the Vadiniense.
Please interfere!See my initial reaction in post # 34 above. Maybe a separate thread would be a good idea so we don’t interfere too much with the flow of BP’s wonderful posts!
Wow, I'm glad if people like the photos! Thanks! I'm not a photographer and never worked with anything remotely close to it. I guess I owe it to my cellphone! And to the scenery itself, of course. You really can't go wrong with yesterday's stage. Then again, weather conditions can change rapidly on that altitude. I was lucky to have sunny weather, but boy was that wind strong at the mountain pass!@Bad Pilgrim, I showed my 18 year old son your most recent photos. He was seriously impressed, to the extent that he even took the phone off me to look at them properly - a very rare event. It wasn't just the subject but the quality that he commented on ( he himself enjoys photography). And for the first time ever he even scrolled back through the thread to see your other pictures.
I think I need to take photography lessons from you....
I'm looking so scruffy and haggard by now that I don't think anyone in their right mind would invite me to their home. Probably only blind people. Luckily it just took me five minutes to find a room at the Hostal Sainz, next to the church and the ethnographic museum. It looks scarily fancy! But I managed to push down the price by 23 %. Hey, I'm a professional...Good luck with finding a room!
I've seen I lot of mountain scenery in my life, but this magnificent view impresses me every time.
I was here in 2012 on an outing with my hosts from Grado who saw me loitering around trying to find a bed and invited me to their home.
This reminds me of something a very good friend of mine used to say. She took beautiful pictures. People would always say — these are beautiful pictures, what kind of camera did you use? One night at a dinner party, to turn the tables, she said — this is a great dinner, what kind of oven did you use?Wow, I'm glad if people like the photos! Thanks! I'm not a photographer and never worked with anything remotely close to it. I guess I owe it to my cellphone!
Yes but it is soon coming to an end, in Mansilla de las Mulas!Just wow, BP.
Wow, wow, wow.
I've never seriously considered walking this camino because it seemed too challenging. So I'm very happy to see your amazing photos. And your words keep me on the edge of my seat until tomorrow. Just wonderful - gracias!!
Brilliant information, ThanksWanna make that last bit more interesting?
Try this from Monasterio de San Miguel de Escalada - it includes a Visigothic stunner to start with, then a ruined monastery, then a cave monastery. Why take the short path near the road when you can do more bashing about in the sticks? Last chance!
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Ok, but how many more kms? I have a bus to catch in Mansilla (I'm not staying the night there). And does it come with mosquitos??Wanna make that last bit more interesting?
Try this from Monasterio de San Miguel de Escalada - it includes a Visigothic stunner to start with, then a ruined monastery, then a cave monastery. Why take the short path near the road when you can do more bashing about in the sticks? Last chance!
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BP thank you so much for this wonderful, informative report. I plan to follow this exact route end of Sep/Oct. I had been considering diverting off it due to some reports about various aspects/issues. You have resolved all those issues. Your photos of Riano are beautiful and I hope to do a small hilltop walk in addition there to get better views. I am a keen photographer and your images here are truly inspiring. (Hope I get the light).
I will do shorter stages. I hope to go up in the funicular. Some of the accommodations are closed the first week in October. I will report here. I intend to steer clear of asphalt and seek out the Monasteries towards the end. I look forward to re-reading these reports before I leave. Thanks again.
The church of San Miguel de la Escalada is .3 km detour off the route! The question will be whether you arrive at a time it’s open. If you spend the night in Gradefes, you will only be about 11 km from the church, which doesn’t open till 10:30 according to the tourism website of Castilla y León. As you undoubtedly know, Mansilla is a stone’s throw from León and buses run frequently (I see 8 buses for next Thursday for instance).Ok, but how many more kms? I have a bus to catch in Mansilla (I'm not staying the night there). And does it come with mosquitos??
Usually I learn erudite words from @alansykes. Today I learned some British slang.It is an absolute belter: even if you only get to see the outside it's worth the short detour.
This:VN has mentioned the ruined monastery of San Pedro de Eslonza, though, which you will not pass unless you take the route that joins the Francés at Puente Villarente instead of Mansilla. And there seem to be more buses from Puente Villarente into León than from Mansilla, though both are very well connected. VN has also mentioned a cave monastery but I don’t know what she is referring to.
Gronze makes it very clear.
You're right, I arrived too early. I only saw the outside, as Alan depicted it above. Then I stuck to the official (boring) route.The church of San Miguel de la Escalada is .3 km detour off the route! The question will be whether you arrive at a time it’s open. If you spend the night in Gradefes, you will only be about 11 km from the church, which doesn’t open till 10:30 according to the tourism website of Castilla y León. As you undoubtedly know, Mansilla is a stone’s throw from León and buses run frequently (I see 8 buses for next Thursday for instance).
VN has mentioned the ruined monastery of San Pedro de Eslonza, though, which you will not pass unless you take the route that joins the Francés at Puente Villarente instead of Mansilla. And there seem to be more buses from Puente Villarente into León than from Mansilla, though both are very well connected. VN has also mentioned a cave monastery but I don’t know what she is referring to.
Gronze makes it very clear.
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I need a vacationCurious, what's in store for you after reaching Mansilla?
You will probably find the Invierno much easier on your body, at least I did last year after having completed the Olvidado.I need a vacation!! So I will be walking the Invierno to Santiago. Hence the bus I take from Mansilla today, to León, and then to Ponferrada
I hope you will continue to post, BP! The Invierno is familiar to many of us now, so we will enjoy it a lot.I need a vacation!! So I will be walking the Invierno to Santiago. Hence the bus I take from Mansilla today, to León, and then to Ponferrada.
I'm now stuck on whether to do this, or the early part of the Olvidado
Hm, yes, in my opinion you won't miss much after Cistierna. But there is the Ruta de los monasterios running in the area, as Laurie and VN pointed out in this thread. So there's that if you're really into monasteries.if I do walk it I would likely turn off at Cistierna onto the Olvidado, thence to the Sanabres/ Primitivo)/Verde etc.
I generally go for entire Caminos. My dissection of the Olvidado into two parts, in the wrong order, was more of an anomaly. But I've met many pilgrims who patch together the Olvidado, Vadiniense, or Salvador so it's really popular! It must be a great way to put several mountain stages together.Incidentally, did you consider that as an option, or did you just want to do the Vadiniense in it's entirety ?
Oh, no, BP, does this mean you’re not going to let us follow along on the Invierno? How will we know if the teenagers come to torment you in Quiroga???See you next year!
No, I won't do a new thread, since it's my vacation!Oh, no, BP, does this mean you’re not going to let us follow along on the Invierno? How will we know if the teenagers come to torment you in Quiroga???
Thanks BP. Hopefully my slower pace and shorter days will be of interest to some Pilgrims here too. Enjoy your vacation. The Invierno is now on my list (I'd sworn off Caminos until this Years SS/Primitivo re-ignited my interest.)No, I won't do a new thread, since it's my vacation!No photos, no writing, using the mobile as little as possible... Sorry! But in case of extraordinary events I will let you know!
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