- Time of past OR future Camino
- Several and counting...
Is that the place? Seems quite self confident!!!
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Is that the place? Seems quite self confident!!!I went to the albergue in Algerrí, next to the church, but the square was deserted and no one answers the phone. I think it will be easier to stay at Hostal Terraferma, 25 euros, down by the carretera, which I can see from the café I am in right now. I will soon know if they have a place for me. Next town is 21 kms from here, I just don't think that is doable...
I felt back to normal today so there was really no problem. But I stopped in Algerrí not to risk anything. Tomorrow will also be a short stage, only 21 kms. Due to a shortage of albergues (and large enough towns which also enters in my equation) I will have to do this kind of short stages from now on (it's either 20 kms or 40 kms). Possibly a whammy of 34 kms to reach Huesca in a couple of days. It's still not that hot so I shouldn't complain...Hope you are feeling back to normal today and, as @timr and @VNwalking have said, do take care.
The reception for the hostal Terraferma is in the gas station right next to it. I think the hostal itself is a few buildings away and not connected to the restaurant on the picture. The thing is that the owner at the gas station helped me to get in contact with the albergue, so I'm staying at the albergue after all!Is that the place? Seems quite self confident!!!
I KNEW that would happenThe reception for the hostal Terraferma is the gas station right next to it. I think the hostal itself is a few buildings away and not connected to the restaurant on the picture. The thing is the owner helped me to get in contact with the albergue, so I'm staying at the albergue after all!
I know, that's what I thought of when the lady at the gas station helped meI KNEW that would happen
Thanks! I am gradually getting used to longer stages, I think. Are you walking the Catalán or another Camino?Thanks for your update BP. I am impressed by your stamina!
Looking forward to my own journey and glad your body seems to be adapting so well. Best wishes
Day 7: Tàrrega - Balaguer, 37 kms
Some day I need to learn to keep my mouth shut. This was not a walk in the park. When I got to Balaguer - before I got to Balaguer - I felt sick to the point of throwing up. That only happened to me once before, on another Camino. Actually it wasn't too hot, it got cloudy for the last 13 kms, and there was a cool breeze in my face all the while. But it was too long. It took me eleven hours to walk from Tárrega to reach the Hostal Urgell in Balaguer.
I had to stop in a cafetería four minutes before I got to the hostal because my legs wouldn't take it anymore. At first I couldn't drink either the water or the Coca Cola. But I started to sip it and could eventually keep it down. Not strictly a sun stroke, since it was clouded, but my body was exhausted and the symptoms are the same. I slept for one and a half hour at the hostal, curtains drawn and ventilator on, and feel better now. Still haven't showered as I dropped dead on the bed. And I need to use the laundromat (occupied at the moment) and buy food at the supermarket which luckily are both close to the hostal.
Blessed are the pilgrims who find a place to stay in Linyola, 13 kms before Balaguer. I really liked that stretch. Dirt tracks among fields, passing the nice castle del Remei with resting areas and a few restaurants. Very bucolic. Linyola seemed like a nice little place. But as I told you yesterday, two other pilgrims had snatched the only accomodation in town.
Hostal Urgell in Balaguer is 30 euros according to Gronze, but 80 euros on Booking *gasp*. I phoned them yesterday and got a pilgrim price of 20 euros, breakfast included. I don't complain. The room is basic and really only worth 20 euros, but after the calvary today I was happy to finally be inside and be able to rest. I have seen the breakfast waiting for me and it's the real deal! I won't go hungry in the morning.
What worries me is if I will get access to the albergue in Algerrí tomorrow. I should have let them know earlier, before the weekend, that I am on my way and now the Ayuntamiento doesn't answer. Oh well, there must be people in town who can help me, right? That remains to be seen. I will only do that short stage tomorrow, I need to rest my legs...
Next episode coming soon!
It was hard. But last year on the Viejo I ended up doing a few long stretches on asphalt, sometimes because I was lost and sometimes because there was no signs at all... I should be used to it by now. Like 42 kms uninterruptedly on asphalt to get to Aguilar del Campoo. Last bit through industrial suburbs. That is a day to remember. I think I crawled under a fence among the factories just so I could get faster to the hostal...What a day. My feet hurt, reading about that last 7kms.
Maybe that's the apartment I wanted to stay at... Sorry, will have to look it up tomorrow, time to go to sleep...Linyola is hard up for accommodation. I stayed at the Cal Rotes when it was a lovely inn with restaurant but it appears to be closed. I have just found an apartment in Linyola (https://www.tourismrentalmontsec.com/perebep/) run by a Dutch-Spanish couple who live in Balaguer and have two apartments there as well.
I have to say, that post made my blood run cold.Like 42 kms uninterruptedly on asphalt to get to Aguilar del Campoo
I walked Via de Plata last year and hoping to walk the Catalan later this year which is why I am avidly reading all your posts. I am an Australian so travelling to Europe is a bit of a trek. Also add to that I am an older personThanks! I am gradually getting used to longer stages, I think. Are you walking the Catalán or another Camino?
We found that nearly all the villages with no bars on the Cami Catalan had a Centro Social. The trick was finding them when they were openThere would be no bars open until Huesca according to Gronze and the other guides I follow. But when I sat down to rest next to the Centro Social in Pueyo de Fañarás, a woman spotted me from across the square and said she could open the bar for me. Camino magic!
View attachment 173085
Yes they have quite irregular opening hoursWe found that nearly all the villages with no bars on the Cami Catalan had a Centro Social. The trick was finding them when they were open.
It is the one listed on Gronze, special prize for pilgrims 30 euros individual and 40 euros double. I understand it's popular since it's the only game in town. By the way, I think I left the peregrinos (who obviously stayed there) behind because I am all alone again...Linyola is hard up for accommodation. I stayed at the Cal Rotes when it was a lovely inn with restaurant but it appears to be closed. I have just found an apartment in Linyola (https://www.tourismrentalmontsec.com/perebep/) run by a Dutch-Spanish couple who live in Balaguer and have two apartments there as well.
We stayed there - great place. We were 5 pilgrims ( an unexpected cami Catalan “wave”It is the one listed on Gronze, special prize for pilgrims 30 euros individual and 40 euros double. I understand it's popular since it's the only game in town
This is my plan! Just that... I have been trying to reach the albergue in Ena by calling, leaving voice messages, texting, Whatsapp... No answer. Gronze says one needs to tell them beforehand, well I am trying... Is it easy to get access to the albergue in Ena? Since you stayed there...Staying at Eña (bring food to cook, and breakfast) means you arrive relatively early at San Juan de la Peña with enough time to do it justice and walk down to Santa Cillia.
From memory …. A couple of weeks ago .. I called them. They give you a code? for the box at the albergue door with the key and the donativo box is inside.This is my plan! Just that... I have been trying to reach the albergue in Ena by calling, leaving voice messages, texting, Whatsapp... No answer. Gronze says one needs to tell them beforehand, well I am trying... Is it easy to get access to the albergue in Ena? Since you stayed there...
Staying at Eña (bring food to cook, and breakfast) means you arrive relatively early at San Juan de la Peña with enough time to do it justice and walk down to Santa Cillia
They give you a code? for the box at the albergue door with the key and the donativo box is inside.
To be honest I can’t remember if there was a codeThe hospitalera finally answered me on WhatsApp yesterday so I sorted it out. She didn't mention a code though... At least I am in contact with her so it's ok!
Oh, don't worry! I'm grateful for any information about the albergues!To be honest I can’t remember if there was a code
If you’re planning to stay at Ruesta you have to call them a couple of days before and let them know so they know numbers for dinner.Oh, don't worry! I'm grateful for any information about the albergues!
Interesting I too generally, once I get going, don't read up a huge amount on the physical journey of the next day (as opposed to say the places of interest). But I wouldn't generally look at the height profile.....simply because I am going to do it whatever!I like not knowing what the daily walk will be like, and be surprised. I had no idea I would be walking in the mountains today and have such a wonderful view of the surroundings! The Torre de Marcuello, the bridge at Foz de Escalete, the enormous cliffs... I didn't see a single birdie though, although this is a Total Vulture Zone. Anyway, look what I found on the ground:
Ok! I plan to do Arrés - Ruesta the next couple of days so I better call them right away then!If you’re planning to stay at Ruesta you have to call them a couple of days before and let them know so they know numbers for dinner.
No way. I'm on the edge of my seat.Don't go anywhere!
Wow- did you go to bed hungry ? Or did you have a few supplies to keep you going?No bar, no shops, no Centro Social as far as I can see
I knew there would be no food in Ena so I brought some. There were also a few supplies in the kitchen: pocket soups, spaghetti, instant coffee (but no milk), a couple of fruits left from other pilgrims. The previous pilgrims stayed here four days ago, but the fruits had kept pretty fresh in the refrigerator! It was all very little food, but I was glad to have something to eat! I left a couple of things myself before I left: hopefully the next pilgrim will have something to nibble on as well.Wow- did you go to bed hungry ? Or did you have a few supplies to keep you going?
Pics show you had a beautiful days walk.
Awesome some of them.
I always enjoy reading your daily journal.
Buen camino.
It was a bit steep. It's one of those shortcuts that avoids the road. I bet the views were splendid there as well but I couldn't see anything because of the fog...Just wonderful.
And the downhill from the old monastery to the Camino? You said 'rapidly downhill' - but how'd you find it? Gnarly??
Day 15: Arrés - Ruesta, 27 kms (yesterday)
Having a heafty breakfast in the morning was a real treat compared to the scraps I have been surviving on for the last week. Casa de las Sonrisas is really a cool place to stay. I was the last person to leave the house in the morning, hence the last pilgrim to say goodbye to the hospitalera Vanessa before she would be replaced. It started to rain, but only for a few minutes... The rest was easy walking all the way to Ruesta.
I gushed about the views yesterday. Today was totally different though. I felt as if it was all about transferring oneself from point A to point B. The fields were flat and monotonous, although the mountains were still there in the distance. I didn't take that many fotos as there was not much to see. Not until the last part when the clear blue lake Embalse de Yesa appeared and when I walked through a nice forested area. My newfound Camino family thought the stretch through the woods was a slog but I liked it since it was the only part of the stage with any shade.
Ruesta doesn't have any inhabitants, only the youngsters running the albergue with the bar/restaurant. But there was a lot of people: us eight pilgrims as well as cyclists, tourists, hikers... We had dinner in the evening and breakfast would be prepared for us early in the morning.
I must say I got a bit worried when I arrived at the albergue. From the outside it looks like Woodstock 1969. You know you're on the Camino Francés when these new-age-zen-we-wrap-our-albergue-in-flags places appear. Luckily the interior was ok. My individual room (20 euros) was free from political symbols, ska-punk, dreadlocks and questionable substances. And I'm not even on the main Camino Francés yet...
I've already called ahead to Puente la Reina to get a place at a hostal. From there I travel to Bilbao to start another Camino. I don't think I would survive on the Camino Francés from Puente la Reina... But I still have three days to get there.
Next installment coming soon!
Agree. I usually avoid albergues all together, but on this Camino (I mean : Catalán + Aragonés) I have stayed in far more of them than I usually do. I'm in Sangüesa tonight and the municipal is perfectly all right here as well. But... It's still difficult to resist private accommodation. I just booked a room in the casa rural in Monreal for tomorrow, and then a hostal in Puente la Reina...I don't think I stayed at a bad place on the Aragonés
I also avoid albergues...social anxiety and only child syndrome I think! I just like my space. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one. I did albergues on the del Norte, San Salvador and Primitivo and paid my dues.Agree. I usually avoid albergues all together, but on this Camino (I mean : Catalán+ Aragonés) I have stayed in far more of them than I usually do. I'm in Sangüesa tonight and the municipal is perfectly all right here as well. But... It's still difficult to resist private accommodation. I just booked a room in the casa rural in Monreal for tomorrow, and then a hostal in Puente la Reina...
Yes I walked past the Pensión Peregrino today. Since it isn't in Gronze, I didn't give it much thought (that's the problem with being too focused on Gronze). I certainly could have stayed there..!I also avoid albergues...social anxiety and only child syndrome I think! I just like my space. I'm glad to see I'm not the only one. I did albergues on the del Norte, San Salvador and Primitivo and paid my dues.
I stayed at Pensión Peregrino in Sangüesa, but have heard good things about the albergue. The Monreal Casa Rural was really nice, and there was food at the nearby centro social. Since it's not a Saturday in September, you may find more open than I did! Puenta La Reina was having some sort of fiesta when I was there, and I couldn't get to my hostal for a while because they were having a running of the bulls style celebration. But it gave me time to sit outside and contemplate the namesake bridge.
... Only now do I understand how true your words are..! Yes, the place was mesmerizing! I got the 50 minutes summary during the guided tour, but there must be so much more to learn about it.As an architectural historian it was my professional privilege/ personal pleasure to visit many special places in this world, but the old monastery at San Juan de la Pena belongs in that unique category of sublime timeless perfection...Carpe diem!
Gronze lists this place as closed. When were you there?I stayed at Pensión Peregrino in Sangüesa
I wasn't there, I walked past it. It's possible it was closed; I didn't check... Sorry, I got the impression that @setmeravelles stayed there recently, but I see now it was in 2022.Gronze lists this place as closed. When were you there?
I'm thinking about for next year: to start at the French border, to Montserrat, then take the Lleída branch to the Ebro, then connect (after Zaragoza) to the Lana (through Soria) and finish in Burgos. Didn't you do this once - or part of it? It would connect Catalán with Ebro and my favorite Lana: a mix of "old" and "new" stretches for me.Looks like you are having great weather, BP. Your posts are putting the idea in my head that the Aragonés should be part of my 2025 camino. I’m glad you are having a better time than your escapades last year on the Viejo
I wasn't there, I walked past it. It's possible it was closed; I didn't check... Sorry, I got the impression that @setmeravelles stayed there recently, but I see now it was in 2022.
Yes it was once a bar and a pensión, but after the wife passed away it closed. Then opened again but just for lodging. So now it's closed? I checked with Gronze which says it is open. Even that it is a "bar-restaurant" (again). Oh well... I guess I have to walk the Invierno one more time to find outjust read fave place (Pensión Pacita on the Invierno) also closed.
I walked from Llançà (essentially on the border), down to Montserrat (which does not take you through Barcelona), and then the Catalán through Huesca (which I’ve been told is much nicer than the Catalán through Lleida, but you could verify if that’s true or just an urban legend). Then we connected with the Aragonés when we descended from San Juan de la Peña.I'm thinking about for next year: to start at the French border, to Montserrat, then take the Lleída branch to the Ebro, then connect (after Zaragoza) to the Lana (through Soria) and finish in Burgos. Didn't you do this once - or part of it? It would connect Catalán with Ebro and my favorite Lana: a mix of "old" and "new" stretches for me.
How is the arrival to Montserrat from where you came? I guess it enters Montserrat differently than the Camino from Barcelona? In terms of elevation, steepness, and probability of causing heart failure? The climb up to the Monastery was the hardest part I ever did on a Camino. (On the other hand I hadn't built up any stamina since it was only my third day).down to Montserrat (which does not take you through Barcelona)
It is not at all bad. 27 kms but I was fine.How is the arrival to Montserrat from where you came? I guess it enters Montserrat differently than the Camino from Barcelona? In terms of elevation, steepness, and probability of causing heart failure? The climb up to the Monastery was the hardest part I ever did on a Camino. (On the other hand I hadn't built up any stamina since it was only my third day).
I cannot compare routes, but the Camino Ignaciano is going 'backwards' along the Catalán between Tárrega and Fuentes de Ebro. I don't think you would sell much of it on beauty or architectural interest at this point, BUT I found the couple of days crossing the Monegros Desert utterely extraordinary! Best done on the shoulders I guess, in spring or autumn. I did it in November. It is not dreadfully difficult, and very level, but no shade and no facilities. You can 'get out' for the night, using a once a day bus to Bujaraloz, and go back in the next morning.I walked from Llançà (essentially on the border), down to Montserrat (which does not take you through Barcelona), and then the Catalán through Huesca (which I’ve been told is much nicer than the Catalán through Lleida, but you could verify if that’s true or just an urban legend). Then we connected with the Aragonés when we descended from San Juan de la Peña.
But I have also walked the Ebro from Deltebre, and turned off after Zaragoza to walk the Castellano-Aragonés, which goes through Soria and is beautiful (but not on Gronze), especially if you like ancient architecture (which you seem to after your visit to San Juan de la Peña!). It connects with the Lana outside Santo Domingo de Silos.
It is not at all bad. 27 kms but I was fine.
My tracks are here: https://www.wikiloc.com/hiking-trails/cami-st-jaume-manresa-to-montserrat-10903652
I am guessing that what happened was that I forgot to turn off the tracker. Or else had it running the night before or something. I was still in my early years of learning how to use Wikiloc/gps. It was 2015 and I only started with the GPS in 2014 on the Olvidadao.Are you sure? Your Wikiloc says it took 20 hours for you to walk that stage! Or am I misreading it?
Ok, I get it!I am guessing that what happened was that I forgot to turn off the tracker. Or else had it running the night before or something. I was still in my early years of learning how to use Wikiloc/gps.
Along the way to Montserrat, I ran into a big group that was walking the Catalán in weekend stages. Turns out that the group was from Cervera, and I had already been in touch via email with some of them. When we came together, one of them shouted - ¿Eres Laurie? I stayed with them till late in the day, getting to go with them to a special mass in a small chapel that had been prearranged, eating food, etc etc. I must not have been paying attention to the GPS, given all the socialization after so many days with no human contact! It was not a terribly long day, really and truly, so that time total is way off. Look at the elevation, it has a total of 850 m, but it’s spread out and nothing is hugely steep.
Looks something like 534 meters rise over a walk of 3.9 kilometers for a 13.6% slope.Elevation for Montserrat looks fine, much more spread out than the vertical climbing from Monistrol..!
Check out my track on wikiloc. It's from this spring.Ok, I get it!
Wow, meeting people after being alone such a long time sure makes a change. Same for me, after meeting only 2 pilgrims on the Camino Catalán, then suddenly a group of about 10 for the last few days...
Elevation for Montserrat looks fine, much more spread out than the vertical climbing from Monistrol..!
I must add that I use a medium quality mobile. So the gps system is not very good.I think that everyone who uses wikiloc knows that the elevation totals vary widely from track to track. The distances are much more reliable, and having a km or two of difference easily comes from breaks, meanders to see animals or views, etc.
My tracks show 850 elevation gain, Josep’s show 1,100, that’s not a trivial difference. Someone once joked on another thread that maybe my tracks showed less elevation gain because I was shorter than the other person. Bottom line — If I’m worried about a particular day in terms of elevation gain, I will scout out a bunch of wikiloc tracks from the route and see what the trend line looks like. I know that as of this year, I can still do 1300 m up without falling apart, and I didn’t find any stages that put that limit to the test. But as the years go by, the comfortable elevation gain goes down. I do think it’s a good idea for anyone walking mountain stages to have a ballpark idea of what kind of elevation they are comfortable with.
To add more uncertainty, I just compared our tracks for the next stages. I walked a few kms further than Josep, to Jorba instead of Igualada, yet I show about half the elevation of his tracks.
Camino Catalán -- Montserrat to Jorba
Ruta Camino Catalán -- Montserrat to Jorba de Senderisme a Collbató, Catalunya (España). Descarrega el track GPS i segueix l'itinerari del sender des d'un mapa. Grava el teu propi recorregut des de l'app, puja la ruta i comparteix-la amb la comunitat.ca.wikiloc.com
2024-04-11 Camí Català 12a etapa Monestir de Montserrat - Igualada
Ruta 2024-04-11 Camí Català 12a etapa Monestir de Montserrat - Igualada de Senderisme a Monestir de Montserrat, Catalunya (España). Descarrega el track GPS i segueix el recorregut de l'itinerari del sender des d'un mapa. Etapa del Camí de Sant Jaume. No és el recorregut oficial. Per evitar...ca.wikiloc.com
These tracks were done on a Garmin hand-held. I now use my iPhone. What you say makes a lot of sense.Peregrina may be using a mountain GPS like Garmin or similar.
Yes Becky and the empty laundromat were the two highlights of the day!Thank you so much for your efforts in posting, I've thoroughly enjoyed catching up each and every day.
What a great way to finish - walking in good company, and an empty laundromat at the end!
Looking forward to your next Camino.
Peter
Thanks so much for posting BP. I have enjoyed following your progress and all your insights. My turn will come hopefully. Have a wonderful next stage.Day 18: Monreal - Puente la Reina, 30 kms (yesterday)
I thought I left the casa rural early, but Becky the British caught up with me in the morning. She has been walking pretty slowly since I met her and her family, two aunts and an uncle, in Arrés. Today she needed to catch a bus in Puente la Reina at 14:30 so she had to speed up. She is actually a marathon and ultramarathon runner. She went fast! I joined her, not without effort, and we walked together all the way to Puente la Reina. It was nice to have someone to talk to after almost three weeks alone (while walking) on the trail..! For a few days I've had the same idea as her: taking the bus the same day as I arrive in Puente la Reina so I can reach my next destination faster. But I feel I need to rest in Puente la Reina so I won't take the bus until tomorrow.
We arrived at the bus stop 45 minutes before Becky's departing time. Thanks to this I have already scoped out the way to the bus stop and together we deciphered the bus times for Logroño where I will be heading tomorrow (and then to Bilbao to start another Camino). Everything is so much easier when you have company on the Camino! We sat down at a nearby café for something to drink and when the bus came we parted ways.
We had joined the main drag of the Camino Francés at Obanos, a couple of kms before Puente la Reina. I thought Puente la Reina would be full of pilgrims, that the cafés would be packed and that there would be a civil war down by the laundromat (it only has two machines and two dryers! Where is the world heading?) But I noticed there were very little people out and about in town. Sure, at the terraces I saw a few people who obviously were pilgrims who had slipped into something more comfortable for the afternoon. But they were not as many as I would have thought. The cafés were pleasantly relaxed and the laundromat was dead empty.
I strolled in the small streets in the afternoon, had a pizza for the first time in three weeks and secured a train ticket from Logroño to Bilbao tomorrow. I didn't find any decent connection from Pamplona to Bilbao, that's why I'm traveling through Logroño. Also, the San Fermines (the running with the bulls) are about to begin. I don't want to be in Pamplona in the middle of such a chaos. It doesn't start until a few days, but I suspect the preparties have already begun. Yesterday, when the two Spanish pilgrims found out that nor Becky nor I had purchased all our tickets yet, they warned us that travelling to Pamplona will be difficult from now on. Firstly, because of all the tourists who are going to Pamplona to partake in the celebrations. Secondly, because of the population of Pamplona who is fleeing the city to get away from them..!
So this is the end of my combined Camino Catalán and Camino Francés-Aragonés. Soon I start the Camino Olvidado where my goal is Aguilar del Campoo (I've already done the second part of the Olvidado). Thanks for following and for all the encouragement. It is easier to keep walking when I get fun comments, as well as important information, from fellow Forum members. I'm glad people reminded me to take the guided tour of San Juan de la Peña, for example!
I'll jump over to the Olvidado section and start a new thread there. Bye for now!
Thanks Laurie. I'll throw a goat's eyeThanks as always for your reports. For those of us who’ve walked the route, it’s a great trip down memory lane. For those who will walk in the future, it’s a great planning resource. I haven’t walked the first half of the Olvidado for more than ten years, so I really look forward to seeing what has changed. That half as you probably know is less cohesively organized (since Ender is one of the guiding lights and is from the province of León) but I think. you will find everything you need. Spoiler alert — lots of asphalt on the first two days!!!
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