LIVE from the Camino BP on the Catalán, June-July 2024

timr · Jun 23, 2024

Bad Pilgrim said:
I went to the albergue in Algerrí, next to the church, but the square was deserted and no one answers the phone. I think it will be easier to stay at Hostal Terraferma, 25 euros, down by the carretera, which I can see from the café I am in right now. I will soon know if they have a place for me. Next town is 21 kms from here, I just don't think that is doable...

Is that the place? Seems quite self confident!!!

Bad Pilgrim · Jun 23, 2024

SEB2 said:
Hope you are feeling back to normal today and, as @timr and @VNwalking have said, do take care.

I felt back to normal today so there was really no problem. But I stopped in Algerrí not to risk anything. Tomorrow will also be a short stage, only 21 kms. Due to a shortage of albergues (and large enough towns which also enters in my equation) I will have to do this kind of short stages from now on (it's either 20 kms or 40 kms). Possibly a whammy of 34 kms to reach Huesca in a couple of days. It's still not that hot so I shouldn't complain...

Bad Pilgrim · Jun 23, 2024

timr said:
Is that the place? Seems quite self confident!!!

The reception for the hostal Terraferma is in the gas station right next to it. I think the hostal itself is a few buildings away and not connected to the restaurant on the picture. The thing is that the owner at the gas station helped me to get in contact with the albergue, so I'm staying at the albergue after all!

timr · Jun 23, 2024

Bad Pilgrim said:
The reception for the hostal Terraferma is the gas station right next to it. I think the hostal itself is a few buildings away and not connected to the restaurant on the picture. The thing is the owner helped me to get in contact with the albergue, so I'm staying at the albergue after all!

I KNEW that would happen

Bad Pilgrim · Jun 23, 2024

timr said:
I KNEW that would happen

I know, that's what I thought of when the lady at the gas station helped me ! I asked for the hostal without knowing I was at the right place, she said she was in charge, but offered to call the albergue if I preferred to stay there instead. Indeed, in small towns one can just run into the right person and they will help you.

Bad Pilgrim · Jun 23, 2024

Day 8: Balaguer - Algerrí, 18 kms

It seemed I was the only guest at Hostal Urgell because I could have heard a pin drop during the evening. I slept like a log and felt my legs were pretty much restored in the morning. When walking through the rest of Balaguer, that I didn't see yesterday, I was surprised to see how beautiful the main square was, as well as the river with colorful houses nearby.

After a hike to leave the town near the castle the terrain became mostly flat, much like yesterday. For the first time on this Camino I got problems with insects: small black flies (gnat?) were everywere. I.e. the small ones that bite you, not just swarm around you. I noticed I walked through several farms today so the animals probably attract the critters. During the first week of walking I thought Cataluña had put a ban on flies because I saw almost none of them from Barcelona until now.

The only large-ish town I passed today was Castelló de Farfaña. It sure had a cute castle on a hill but no cafés. Only a Centro Social next to the church, and it wasn't open. It was a pretty big pueblo/small town. I wondered why there was so few services.

I arrived at the Ayuntamiento in Algerrí but the place was deserted and no one answered my calls. I went down to the road to look for the other option in town: Hostal Terraferma. At the gas station I asked a lady where the reception was, and lo and behold I had actually run into the owner. She offered to call the albergue for me if I preferred to stay there instead. So I went back to the albergue, next to the Ayuntamiento, which is just five minutes from the road. There I meet señor Casimiro who let me in. It is 10 euros and modern; renovated during the pandemic.

Señor Casimiro says there will be two other pilgrims in the albergue tonight! Probably the ones who occupied the apartment in Linyola, which sent me off on yesterday's desert walk to Balaguer. Will I hold it against them? I'll try not to... When I left the albergue to go hunting for food at 5 p.m. they hadn't arrived yet. Maybe they will be there when I get back.

To be continued!

Bad Pilgrim · Jun 24, 2024

I got to Tamarite de Litera before noon and decided to push on another 21 kms... The town looked nice but I didn't know what I would do there all day. The two pilgrims I met yesterday said they would stay in Tamarite, but they looked like they were used to walking long distances so I wouldn't be surprised if they show up here as well (in Monzón).

Bad Pilgrim · Jun 24, 2024

Day 9, Algerrí - Monzón, 42 kms

Today I crossed the border to Aragón and left Cataluña behind me. Suddenly I was walking next to orchards with ciruelas, nectarines, apples and peaches of different sizes. The peaches were ripe and one of them mysteriously ended up in my hand. I have never tasted any fruit while walking during my Caminos. Everything is mostly burnt to the ground when I walk in the midst of summer.

First a recap of yesterday's evening in Algerrí. When I went back to the albergue at 7 p.m. the two pilgrims still hadn't arrived. But they soon appeared in the doorway. Two Spanish guys (or Catalanes, since they live in Barcelona) who started in Barcelona just like me.

We chatted about the Camino and they unpacked their things - to then go out around 10 p.m. to see the pueblo and the fiestas de San Juan. That's past my bedtime! They told me to get some sleep now, because by night things would get rowdy in town. And my room was right next to the plaza... But strangely enough I only heard one or two firecrackers and then silence.

I told them I would meet them again this afternoon since we all three planned to stay at the albergue in Tamarite de Litera. Little did they know (nor did I) that I would change plans and push on to Monzón and Hostal Venecia where I am now. By the way, isn't San Juan and the main party today!? I would think so judging by the drunk people here in Monzón. Abuelo is dancing reguetón in the bar. Not judging, he can dance if he wants to, but there seems to be some heavy drinking involved and he is basically dancing over us poor souls sitting at the counter.

Since today is the dreaded day of San Juan, a red letter day, I was afraid cafés and supermarkets would be closed along the way. But I found both a café and a bakery in Alfarràs, and in Tamarite de Literas it was business as usual. Many people at the terraces and benches in the sprawling city center. It's the city of magic (what about Cervera?!) as indicated by murals in town. There's a magic-themed festival once a year during which the albergue is closed according to Gronze.

I didn't feel like eating anything in Tamarite de Litera, but drank a lot of coffee, Coca Cola and water before attacking the remaining 21 kms to Monzón. Sure my feet were aching when I arrived, but my body didn't shut down like two days ago. Hostal Venecia is 29 euros, basic but oh so relaxing after a little stroll of twelve hours in the heat. But walking all day means there is no time for anything else but washing, eating and sleeping... Tomorrow will be a shorter stage, to Berbegal or Pertusa.

Tag along!

lesmac · Jun 24, 2024

Thanks for your update BP. I am impressed by your stamina!
Looking forward to my own journey and glad your body seems to be adapting so well. Best wishes

Bad Pilgrim · Tuesday at 5:07 AM

lesmac said:
Thanks for your update BP. I am impressed by your stamina!
Looking forward to my own journey and glad your body seems to be adapting so well. Best wishes

Thanks! I am gradually getting used to longer stages, I think. Are you walking the Catalán or another Camino?

Bad Pilgrim · Tuesday at 6:06 PM

Finally in Pertusa, waiting for someone to open the albergue... Problems with Gronze and waymarking today so I scoped out my own way to Pertusa. Like walking 4 kms straight ahead on an asphalted road in the afternoon heat. Here is part of it:

VNwalking · Tuesday at 6:27 PM

Noooooo fun!

Bad Pilgrim · Tuesday at 8:35 PM

Day 10: Monzón - Pertusa, 33 kms

I slept a little bit too long and didn't leave Hostal Venecia until around 7 a.m. I couldn't resist the cafés on my way out of town either, so all in all I left Monzón much later than I had anticipated.

Today I walked mostly on dirt tracks among the fields and canals and it was quite nice. I could see several towns in the distance around me, and silhouettes of castles. Very flat, except for the town of Berbegal that is placed on top of a hill. It required an effort to push myself up there. So much space all around and they decided to build the town on the only mound in the vicinity, gee.

After the descent from Berbegal I should have walked straight ahead to reach the town of La Cuadrada. But there was a signpost and an arrow pointing right. Suddenly I was on my way to La Perdiguera and there were shining new signs and arrows taking me there. The Camino must have been rerouted. Before entering La Perdiguera there is a refreshing fountain. There is no bar but I went to the piscina municipal and hoped to be lucky: closed. I phoned ahead for a fourth time to La Pertusa and finally got hold of someone who gave me a number to the person in charge of the albergue.

I lost the arrows in La Perdiguera, and since Gronze doesn't describe this way at all I decided to take the carretera (asphalt) to Pertusa. It was basically three kms in a straight line, then a bend, then four kms in another straight line. I had stayed to idle in far to many bars along the way so I had to do this slog at about 5 p.m. and 33 degrees C. But this was a small road, carretera comarcal, so there was almost no traffic.

Shortly before entering Pertusa the Camino joined me from the right, apparently avoiding the asphalt between La Perdiguera and Pertusa. Now in Pertusa I am on terms with Gronze again, but who knows what tomorrow brings? The waymarking doesn't take you anywhere near La Cuadrada, listed in Gronze, so there has definitely been changes in the area.

The albergue in Pertusa is at the plaza del Parque, close to the Ayuntamiento and in the same building as a kind of bar/restaurant (a restaurant not showing on Google maps) that I hope will open in the evening because the staff has arrived and is preparing things. There is one other bar in town and the hospitalero told me it would "probably" open after 8 p.m. The albergue is 5 euros but worth much more: clean, 6 beds, fridge, stove, microwave oven, laundry machine, AC... But I had to buy food in a small store in Berbegal and carry it because there is nothing to buy here.

Tomorrow: Huesca! You don't wanna miss it!

oursonpolaire · Tuesday at 9:41 PM

Bad Pilgrim said:
Day 7: Tàrrega - Balaguer, 37 kms

Some day I need to learn to keep my mouth shut. This was not a walk in the park. When I got to Balaguer - before I got to Balaguer - I felt sick to the point of throwing up. That only happened to me once before, on another Camino. Actually it wasn't too hot, it got cloudy for the last 13 kms, and there was a cool breeze in my face all the while. But it was too long. It took me eleven hours to walk from Tárrega to reach the Hostal Urgell in Balaguer.

I had to stop in a cafetería four minutes before I got to the hostal because my legs wouldn't take it anymore. At first I couldn't drink either the water or the Coca Cola. But I started to sip it and could eventually keep it down. Not strictly a sun stroke, since it was clouded, but my body was exhausted and the symptoms are the same. I slept for one and a half hour at the hostal, curtains drawn and ventilator on, and feel better now. Still haven't showered as I dropped dead on the bed. And I need to use the laundromat (occupied at the moment) and buy food at the supermarket which luckily are both close to the hostal.

Blessed are the pilgrims who find a place to stay in Linyola, 13 kms before Balaguer. I really liked that stretch. Dirt tracks among fields, passing the nice castle del Remei with resting areas and a few restaurants. Very bucolic. Linyola seemed like a nice little place. But as I told you yesterday, two other pilgrims had snatched the only accomodation in town.

Hostal Urgell in Balaguer is 30 euros according to Gronze, but 80 euros on Booking *gasp*. I phoned them yesterday and got a pilgrim price of 20 euros, breakfast included. I don't complain. The room is basic and really only worth 20 euros, but after the calvary today I was happy to finally be inside and be able to rest. I have seen the breakfast waiting for me and it's the real deal! I won't go hungry in the morning.

What worries me is if I will get access to the albergue in Algerrí tomorrow. I should have let them know earlier, before the weekend, that I am on my way and now the Ayuntamiento doesn't answer. Oh well, there must be people in town who can help me, right? That remains to be seen. I will only do that short stage tomorrow, I need to rest my legs...

Next episode coming soon!

Linyola is hard up for accommodation. I stayed at the Cal Rotes when it was a lovely inn with restaurant but it appears to be closed. I have just found an apartment in Linyola (https://www.tourismrentalmontsec.com/perebep/) run by a Dutch-Spanish couple who live in Balaguer and have two apartments there as well.

VNwalking · Tuesday at 10:01 PM

What a day. My feet hurt, reading about that last 7kms.

Bad Pilgrim · Tuesday at 10:06 PM

VNwalking said:
What a day. My feet hurt, reading about that last 7kms.

It was hard. But last year on the Viejo I ended up doing a few long stretches on asphalt, sometimes because I was lost and sometimes because there was no signs at all... I should be used to it by now. Like 42 kms uninterruptedly on asphalt to get to Aguilar del Campoo. Last bit through industrial suburbs. That is a day to remember. I think I crawled under a fence among the factories just so I could get faster to the hostal...

Bad Pilgrim · Tuesday at 10:08 PM

oursonpolaire said:
Linyola is hard up for accommodation. I stayed at the Cal Rotes when it was a lovely inn with restaurant but it appears to be closed. I have just found an apartment in Linyola (https://www.tourismrentalmontsec.com/perebep/) run by a Dutch-Spanish couple who live in Balaguer and have two apartments there as well.

Maybe that's the apartment I wanted to stay at... Sorry, will have to look it up tomorrow, time to go to sleep...

VNwalking · Tuesday at 10:09 PM

Bad Pilgrim said:
Like 42 kms uninterruptedly on asphalt to get to Aguilar del Campoo

I have to say, that post made my blood run cold.

lesmac · Tuesday at 11:26 PM

Bad Pilgrim said:
Thanks! I am gradually getting used to longer stages, I think. Are you walking the Catalán or another Camino?

I walked Via de Plata last year and hoping to walk the Catalan later this year which is why I am avidly reading all your posts. I am an Australian so travelling to Europe is a bit of a trek. Also add to that I am an older person
This forum is a bit addictive I must say.
All the best for the next days!

Bad Pilgrim · Wednesday at 11:14 AM

There would be no bars open until Huesca according to Gronze and the other guides I follow. But when I sat down to rest next to the Centro Social in Pueyo de Fañanás, a woman spotted me from across the square and said she could open the bar for me. Camino magic!

Elena peregrina · Wednesday at 5:10 PM

Bad Pilgrim said:
There would be no bars open until Huesca according to Gronze and the other guides I follow. But when I sat down to rest next to the Centro Social in Pueyo de Fañarás, a woman spotted me from across the square and said she could open the bar for me. Camino magic!
View attachment 173085

We found that nearly all the villages with no bars on the Cami Catalan had a Centro Social. The trick was finding them when they were open .

Bad Pilgrim · Wednesday at 5:26 PM

Day 11: Pertusa - Huesca, 34 kms

After leaving Pertusa I was back on the same carretera I arrived on yesterday. And just as yesterday there was very little traffic. Easy walking in the morning. Today would be much asphalt at the beginning, but successively more dirt roads. Beautiful views of the mountains Sierra de Guara that follow me to my right since yesterday and gradually getting closer.

I didn't count on any bar being open for the next 34 kms. But in Pueyo de Fañanás a lady saw my distress and opened the Centro Social for me. She didn't say her name but I am sure it was Maruja who is also in charge of the albergue. "Are you looking for Maruja?" the villagers asked when they peered into the dimly lit bar, probably wondering why the door stood open and someone was sitting inside. I told them it was probably Maruja who opened for me, and that I would soon carry on to the next village.

In every village people wished me Buen Camino or Buen viaje. The drivers happily waved at me through their car window when they slowly passed me on the country roads. It's obvious pilgrims are well liked in these small villages. I noticed a lot of the hamlets had albergues, just like Pertusa. But you still have to bring your own food at least from Berbegal the previous day, since none of the villages I passed before Huesca had any stores.

I went from village to village, some with refreshing fountains, and near Huesca a wooded area with shade and a little river. All the canals, creeks and blabbing brooks only made me thirstier... Luckily the entrance to Huesca is not through an industrial suburb, but a sports complex. Lots of people walking and running - in 34 degrees C - and a well equipped café where I could quench my thirst.

After several albergues or cheap hostals I decided to go for Hostal Centro, 39 euros. I'm sure the albergue in Huesca is top notch, but I needed something more comfortable. I have no idea where I am going tomorrow: I have to consult Gronze... and have a siesta

Edit: three more pictures from a rainy (!) Huesca in the evening.

Bad Pilgrim · Wednesday at 8:52 PM

Elena peregrina said:
We found that nearly all the villages with no bars on the Cami Catalan had a Centro Social. The trick was finding them when they were open .

Yes they have quite irregular opening hours ! Actually the one in Fañanás, only two kms after Pueyo de Fañanás, was open when I arrived (but I didn't stop there). It's a hit and miss...

Bad Pilgrim · Thursday at 7:08 AM

oursonpolaire said:
Linyola is hard up for accommodation. I stayed at the Cal Rotes when it was a lovely inn with restaurant but it appears to be closed. I have just found an apartment in Linyola (https://www.tourismrentalmontsec.com/perebep/) run by a Dutch-Spanish couple who live in Balaguer and have two apartments there as well.

It is the one listed on Gronze, special prize for pilgrims 30 euros individual and 40 euros double. I understand it's popular since it's the only game in town. By the way, I think I left the peregrinos (who obviously stayed there) behind because I am all alone again...

Elena peregrina · Thursday at 8:38 AM

Bad Pilgrim said:
It is the one listed on Gronze, special prize for pilgrims 30 euros individual and 40 euros double. I understand it's popular since it's the only game in town

We stayed there - great place. We were 5 pilgrims ( an unexpected cami Catalan “wave”) 2 in the bedroom and 3 of us in fold out beds in the living room. The woman who runs it told us she also takes pilgrims in her apartment upstairs if necessary. So no-one is turned away. But it’s necessary to call her a couple of days in advance.

dick bird · Thursday at 9:16 AM

It gets decidedly hilly after Huesca. If you are going to visit Loarre Castle (and you should), the best way would probably be to take the signposted path a few kms after Ariés. On the advice of Undermanager we walked to just outside Loarre and followed the road - we ended up hitching the last bit. But it is definitely worth seeing.

We broke up the last few stages by staying in Sarsamacuello, nice little albergue but you need to bring food, then staying at the Casa Ger in Yeste, just outside Peña la estación - a treat but worth every cent (the young couple running it are lovely people) and then at Eña. Staying at Eña (bring food to cook, and breakfast) means you arrive relatively early at San Juan de la Peña with enough time to do it justice and walk down to Santa Cillia.

By the way, the restaurant in La Peña was doing a roaring trade at lunch feeding the construction workers rebuilding the railway line to Canfranc.

The best is yet to come. Buen Camino.

Bad Pilgrim · Thursday at 12:49 PM

The best terrace in Aragón, I think! Cool and peaceful after 22 kms in the sun. Two Coca Colas and a cute dog sleeping at my feet! Bolea is a picturesque and fun little town. But alas... I keep on going to Loarre now.

Bad Pilgrim · Thursday at 6:57 PM

Day 12: Huesca - Loarre, 33 kms

Food has been scarce for the last few days. I have had to plan my stages carefully and look out for the few stores that have come my way. I don't eat anything while I am walking, just drinking, but in the evening I get hungry. Luckily Huesca is a town of about 50000 people so I didn't have that problem there. I ate like a horse yesterday evening, and thanks to my new-found energy I could walk fast and furious during the cool hours of the morning. Of course, as the sun rose higher in the sky... it became a different story.

On my way to Bolea a bicigrino came up from behind and actually slowed down to have a chat. He rolled beside me for a while and we talked Camino stuff. He started in Barcelona and would go on to Puente la Reina, then Irún to do the Norte to Ribadeo, then Camino del Mar and down to Santiago on the Inglés. Wow. I have thought about cycling the Caminos myself, and his itinerary sure sounded nice. If I had stayed in the albergue in Huesca I would have met him there. He said the albergue in Huesca was superb, and I have no reason to doubt him. But those pensiones and hostales are just so tempting...

Bolea is placed on top of a hill, but the ascent wasn't as bad as that to Berbegal a few days ago. Still the last km was hard. The heat was pressing from above. It was a relief to sit down inside the cafetería at the lively town square. Yes, I always sit inside the cafés: when I am out walking all day, why would I sit outside on a terrace? But the barman showed me a small terrace hidden further back in the cafetería, under the cool shadows of grapevines. His enormous dog, slow-moving and drowsy in the heat, kept me company while I gulped two large sodas. I contemplated part of the church, the mountains, while Well Behaved Doggy received a few scratches behind the ears. I could have stayed there forever... but it was still early. I called Casa Pepico in Loarre, 11 kms further down the road. The price wasn't mentioned on Gronze, the lady said 50 euros and I just... why not. So I stay in a casa rural tonight. (There is actually no albergue in Loarre.) I will make up for this deadly sin tomorrow in Ena where I will be back in a regular albergue (and pushing on any further will be virtually impossible).

The castle of Loarre hovered far too high above me for me to be able to visit it. I had to let it pass, majestically looking down on me on my right, as I was struggling with the last slog into Loarre. I guess 35-36 degrees C today. But the cute plaza in Loarre surrounded by cafés, a hotel, several fountains, soon made me feel better. I had the best tortilla de patatas ever in one of the cafeterías. Perhaps because I needed the salt, perhaps because I was hungry. Either way it was otherworldly!

The center of Loarre is picturesque and similar to that in Bolea. It has its faire share of tourists, many French people right now, in spite of being a small town. There must be touristy and cultural thingies to see in the vicinity, like the castle, but I am not the right person to list them for you. I know there is a store to buy basic food and an ATM. The ATM is only working certain hours on Fridays though! Buying food here is necessary because there will be nothing in Ena tomorrow.

Over and out!

Bad Pilgrim · Thursday at 8:27 PM

dick bird said:
Staying at Eña (bring food to cook, and breakfast) means you arrive relatively early at San Juan de la Peña with enough time to do it justice and walk down to Santa Cillia.

This is my plan! Just that... I have been trying to reach the albergue in Ena by calling, leaving voice messages, texting, Whatsapp... No answer. Gronze says one needs to tell them beforehand, well I am trying... Is it easy to get access to the albergue in Ena? Since you stayed there...

Elena peregrina · Friday at 12:44 AM

Bad Pilgrim said:
This is my plan! Just that... I have been trying to reach the albergue in Ena by calling, leaving voice messages, texting, Whatsapp... No answer. Gronze says one needs to tell them beforehand, well I am trying... Is it easy to get access to the albergue in Ena? Since you stayed there...

From memory …. A couple of weeks ago .. I called them. They give you a code? for the box at the albergue door with the key and the donativo box is inside.

Bad Pilgrim · Friday at 11:55 AM

I like not knowing what the daily walk will be like, and be surprised. I had no idea I would be walking in the mountains today and have such a wonderful view of the surroundings! The Torre de Marcuello, the bridge at Foz de Escalete, the enormous cliffs... I didn't see a single birdie though, although this is a Total Vulture Zone. Anyway, look what I found on the ground:

Is it the bicigrino from yesterday who dropped it? I haven't seen any other pilgrims around. I'll carry it with me and perhaps I'll run in to someone looking for it...

Bad Pilgrim · Friday at 11:58 AM

dick bird said:
Staying at Eña (bring food to cook, and breakfast) means you arrive relatively early at San Juan de la Peña with enough time to do it justice and walk down to Santa Cillia

Elena peregrina said:
They give you a code? for the box at the albergue door with the key and the donativo box is inside.

The hospitalera finally answered me on WhatsApp yesterday so I sorted it out. She didn't mention a code though... At least I am in contact with her so it's ok!

Elena peregrina · Friday at 12:00 PM

Bad Pilgrim said:
The hospitalera finally answered me on WhatsApp yesterday so I sorted it out. She didn't mention a code though... At least I am in contact with her so it's ok!

To be honest I can’t remember if there was a code

Bad Pilgrim · Friday at 12:03 PM

Elena peregrina said:
To be honest I can’t remember if there was a code

Oh, don't worry! I'm grateful for any information about the albergues!

Elena peregrina · Friday at 12:06 PM

Bad Pilgrim said:
Oh, don't worry! I'm grateful for any information about the albergues!

If you’re planning to stay at Ruesta you have to call them a couple of days before and let them know so they know numbers for dinner.

timr · Friday at 12:33 PM

Bad Pilgrim said:
I like not knowing what the daily walk will be like, and be surprised. I had no idea I would be walking in the mountains today and have such a wonderful view of the surroundings! The Torre de Marcuello, the bridge at Foz de Escalete, the enormous cliffs... I didn't see a single birdie though, although this is a Total Vulture Zone. Anyway, look what I found on the ground:

Interesting I too generally, once I get going, don't read up a huge amount on the physical journey of the next day (as opposed to say the places of interest). But I wouldn't generally look at the height profile.....simply because I am going to do it whatever!

I remember I was a good way along the stage on the Via Francgena from Martigny to Orsières (which was well waymarked) when I decided to check the three guidebooks I had and found they all were unanimous in saying it was the most physically demanding stretch between Canterbury and Rome. And the first half of the day most certainly was and involved climbing over, or slithering under, fallen trees (it was an area of avalanches) and a famous section where you walked along a "kind of" cliff edge holding on to chains - NOT quite as dramatic as it sounds and I think no longer there.

Two other things were interesting. There were a lot of benches for sitting on along the path - very Swiss I think.

And a dinky little train kept passing by making its way up the route for those who lost heart. I didn't lose heart.

VNwalking · Friday at 4:59 PM

Sigh. No birdies.
But other than that (and the heat) it sounds very nice!

Bad Pilgrim · Friday at 5:08 PM

Elena peregrina said:
If you’re planning to stay at Ruesta you have to call them a couple of days before and let them know so they know numbers for dinner.

Ok! I plan to do Arrés - Ruesta the next couple of days so I better call them right away then!

Bad Pilgrim · Friday at 10:03 PM

Day 13: Loarre - Ena, 33 kms

I reluctantly left Loarre in the morning. It was a nice little village! I slept like a log in the casa rural Pepico that was effectively soundproof.

In a wooded area I saw a pilgrim's shell in perfect condition on the ground. Someone must have lost it recently! I picked it up and hoped to catch the person who dropped it. But just as almost every day, I wouldn't see anyone else on the trail.

Soon the first climbing started, on loose rocks up to Saramancuello - and past it. I thought the arrows would take me through town and hopefully to a Centro Social. But not until I was halfway up the hill I discovered I had missed Saramancuello completely. Oh well. I kept scrambling higher and higher up the mountain. The path finally flattened and I could see the castle Marcuello with a dramatic backdrop. A few people were there - coming by car, of course. Then I went rapidly downhill, through the astounding cliffs and the thin bridge at Foz de Escalete. If you are afraid of heights, think twice before walking here.

I took a break in the bar in Estación Peña. Shortly after, the next ascent started. It was the second hardest hill since I crawled my way up to Monestir de Montserrat a week ago. I had fantastic views over the river and the rock formations at Foz de Escalete where I had come from earlier in the morning. But the path was steep, difficult and the sun was burning. When the trail started to descend drastically I got worried I had gotten lost. In my mind, there was no way that this descent could be part of the Camino since the profile on Gronze showed only up up up. The yellow arrows disappeared. As if this wasn't enough, I heard blood-curdling screams coming from the wilderness. I thought it was a wounded animal or a dying pilgrim - but it turned out it was just some youngsters swimming and faffing around in the river near one of the waterfalls. I was rapidly descending towards them and was almost sure I was on the wrong track. Then a sign saying "Ena" appeared... I was still on the Camino. All the way to Ena yellow arrows were scarce and I would be hesitant from time to time until I reached Ena.

There was a bit of shade in the woods. The river with its small waterfalls followed me almost all the way to Ena. The water was crystal clear, I wished I could jump right in... I arrived in Ena at 3 p.m, burning as usual .

The town was deserted: no-one to ask about the directions to the albergue. Luckily the way there is waymarked. There is a wooden box on the door where the keys hang. No code. I could walk right into the albergue and the coolness. It is 5 euros and has a fridge, kitchen, 8 beds, TV, wifi... everything except AC. But there will be rain tonight so I think temperatures will drop soon.

There are only 19 inhabitants in Ena. No bar, no shops, no Centro Social as far as I can see. But the village is far from derelict. I took a walk in the evening and was, once again, surprised of what I saw. The church, the houses and the small squares are exquisite! Well preserved, beautiful, like in a small medieval town. I could see myself living here. I have a soft spot for these tranquil hamlets, like Monteagudo de las Salinas on the Lana... The roofs here are interesting, with peculiar round chimneys that I haven't noticed in other villages. Some of them decorated with espantabrujas - scare-witches. Witchcraft in Cervera, magic in Tamarite de Litera, and now this... Witches are a real nuisance on this Camino, it seems.

Tomorrow I will see the monastery San Juan de la Peña. Both the outside and the inside..? I'll decide when I get there. Depending on the weather, and how hungry I am, I may have to carry on without visiting.

Don't go anywhere!

Peterexpatkiwi · Friday at 10:11 PM

Geez, why on Earth did you not go for a swim? Beautiful day, great location, on the Camino - doesn't get better!

VNwalking · Friday at 10:51 PM

Bad Pilgrim said:
Don't go anywhere!

No way. I'm on the edge of my seat.

OzAnnie · Saturday at 1:50 AM

Bad Pilgrim said:
No bar, no shops, no Centro Social as far as I can see

Wow- did you go to bed hungry ? Or did you have a few supplies to keep you going?
Pics show you had a beautiful days walk.
Awesome some of them.
I always enjoy reading your daily journal.
Buen camino.

Bad Pilgrim · Saturday at 10:19 AM

OzAnnie said:
Wow- did you go to bed hungry ? Or did you have a few supplies to keep you going?
Pics show you had a beautiful days walk.
Awesome some of them.
I always enjoy reading your daily journal.
Buen camino.

I knew there would be no food in Ena so I brought some. There were also a few supplies in the kitchen: pocket soups, spaghetti, instant coffee (but no milk), a couple of fruits left from other pilgrims. The previous pilgrims stayed here four days ago, but the fruits had kept pretty fresh in the refrigerator! It was all very little food, but I was glad to have something to eat! I left a couple of things myself before I left: hopefully the next pilgrim will have something to nibble on as well.

Bad Pilgrim · Saturday at 10:31 AM

San Juan de la Peña. The hike uphill in the morning was rough but I just think of the near-death experience at Monestir de Montserrat and tell myself I shouldn't complain... Arrived at 10 o'clock, just in time for the cafetería to open! 48 hours without coffee and now finally a real breakfast... I am drinking and eating unabashedly as I write.

Today is cloudy which unfortunately makes my fotos dark and gloomy, but here I am:

dick bird · Saturday at 1:45 PM

The round chimneys are typical of Aragon, you’ll be seeing more of them. I believe money has been put into Ena to preserve it. Enjoy San Juan. The old monastery is the star.

Bad Pilgrim · 2024-06-30T11:17:16+0200

So many things happened yesterday: A guided tour of the old monastery, the five-star stage in the beautiful landscape of the pre-Pyrenees, and staying at albergue donativo La Casa de las Sonrisas with other pilgrims coming from Somport. That means communal dinner, helping in the kitchen and a guided tour around the hamlet of Arrés with the hospitalera. There was simply no time to write my daily report! I hope I can catch up on it in Ruesta.

Bad Pilgrim · 2024-06-30T15:47:39+0200

Day 14: Ena - Arrés, 31 kms (yesterday)

I didn't sleep well in the albergue in Ena. There are no curtains in the dorm and the room gets heated during the day. For such a well-equipped albergue it's strange they don't have at least a fan.

From Ena at 700 mtrs above sea level I aimed for the two monasteries at San Juan de la Peña at 1200 mtrs. First quite flat to Botaya, then steep uphill through the woods. Luckily this would be the hardest part of today's stage so I was glad to have it dealt with already in the morning.

I arrived at the new monastery at 10 o'clock, just in time to have breakfast. It was cloudy but not raining. The very modern annex to the new monastery looks like a mix between a gift shop, a café and an airport terminal. I guess I could have bought a ticket there to enter both the new and the old monastery but I didn't think about it then: I aimed for breakfast. Through the window I saw a dog working hard to collect his sheep, and cyclists and tourists taking pictures of the surroundings. "You need to eat if you're gonna keep walking in the hills", the chatty waitress ordered me and I obliged.

When I left the café the weather had changed completely. Thick fog, puffs of drizzle in my face and chillier than before. I put on an extra jacket and began to navigate the mere km that separated me from the old monastery in the mist.

I got there, the fog dissipated... and there would be a guided tour in 10 minutes! I couldn't let that go. So I left my backpack at the hut where they sell the tickets and took the hour-long tour. 7 euros for pilgrims. It felt funny to make a break for organized tourism..! Then I strolled in the old monastery on my own for another 30 minutes at least. I am glad the weather was cool: had it been a hot day I never would have sacrificed almost two hours of today's walk. I'll post fotos from the monastery separately!

I pushed on a little bit further uphill, then rapidly downhill all the way to Santa Cruz de la Serós. The views were spectacular, during the whole stage actually (except for a slog on asphalt between Puente la Reina de Jaca and Arrés). I learned yesterday, in the outdoor museum that is Ena, that these are the Pre-Pyrenees. I always thought El Bierzo was the most beautiful part of Spain, but Baby Pyrenees is a strong contender.

At Santa Cilia the Camino Catalán merges with the Camino coming from Somport. I was aware I was on the Camino Francés now - at least a variant of it - and had decided to stay at the albergue donativo in Arrés, shared dormitory and all. When in Rome, do as the Romans do.

Due to my cultural debauchery at the monastery I didn't arrive in Arrés until 7 p.m. *gasp*. Communal dinner, walk to see one of the most beautiful sunsets in Spain (but it was cloudy...), tour of the defense tower and the church, communal breakfast in the morning. All commanded by the lively hospitalera Vanesa who did her last day at the albergue; a new hospitalero would replace her tomorrow.

The dorms were cramped, just as I anticipated. The room was cool but snoring was involved and I slept pretty bad. Because of the activities in the evening we didn't get to sleep until well after 10 p.m. and at 5 a.m. people were already starting to do their backpacks. We were eight people: all British, except for one Frenchman and another guy from the same country as me. The guy from my country had the same name as me and dressed the same, which caused a few giggles at dinner. The British dubbed us "number uno" and "number dos" to avoid confusion...

It was nice to revisit Albergue Life à la Camino Francés. But I called to Ruesta to get an individual room tomorrow. Can't stand the snoring and can't keep walking if I don't get enough sleep. Anyway: with the monastery, the pretty mountains and the dinner at the albergue it was a five-star day..!

Bad Pilgrim · 2024-07-01T13:48:29+0200

*** Intermission: Cultural exploit! ***

Two day ago I visited the old monastery of San Juan de la Peña. It is 7 euros for pilgrims with a credencial. It's impossible to miss, right by the country road in a curve. It is located in the Pre-Pyrenees, which is a beautiful landscape, but the setting is not as dramatic as that of the monastery of Montserrat that I saw a couple of weeks ago. From the outside it looked peculiar, as if merged with the enormous cliff hanging above. So what about the inside? I decided to check it out.

The guide talked in 100 miles/hour. I made an effort to remember the most important stuff. They started building the monastery in the X century, facing north with almost no sunlight except for a few hours in summer. The unusual location is due to the presence of drinking water from the mountains. Parts of it burned down at some point but everyone survived thanks to one bloke who couldn't sleep and discovered the fire in time. The last monks left in the XIX century and in the 1920's restoration started. Franco visited the place in the 1950's to attend Mass or something and his wife almost froze to death on one of the benches outside.

We saw the remains of medieval paintings on the walls as well as tombs with important people and their heraldry. We got the story of the Holy Grail (a replica is kept in the chapel) that arrived from Rome and then was shoved around the country, including San Juan de la Peña, to finally end up in Valencia. There is a camino from San Juan de la Peña to Valencia for those who want to make a pilgrimage to see the real deal. (This I had already read about in a pamphlet in the albergue in Ena.)

It felt funny to make an abrupt change from walking to organized tourism in the middle of the stage. But I highly recommend it! The guided tour takes about 50 minutes and is held several times a day. So chances are you can catch one when you walk by.

Some photos of the old monastery below (when my wifi decides to upload them. Sorry for the inconvenience).

VNwalking · 2024-07-01T15:38:04+0200

Just wonderful.
And the downhill from the old monastery to the Camino? You said 'rapidly downhill' - but how'd you find it? Gnarly??

Bad Pilgrim · 2024-07-01T15:43:41+0200

VNwalking said:
Just wonderful.
And the downhill from the old monastery to the Camino? You said 'rapidly downhill' - but how'd you find it? Gnarly??

It was a bit steep, but very short. It's one of those shortcuts that avoids the road. I bet the views were splendid there as well but I couldn't see anything because of the fog...

Bad Pilgrim · 2024-07-01T17:25:04+0200

Day 15: Arrés - Ruesta, 27 kms (yesterday)

Having a heafty breakfast in the morning was a real treat compared to the scraps I have been surviving on for the last week. Casa de las Sonrisas is really a cool place to stay. I was the last person to leave the house in the morning, hence the last pilgrim to say goodbye to the hospitalera Vanessa before she would be replaced. It started to rain, but only for a few minutes... The rest was easy walking all the way to Ruesta.

I gushed about the views yesterday. Today was totally different though. I felt as if it was all about transferring oneself from point A to point B. The fields were flat and monotonous, although the mountains were still there in the distance. I didn't take that many fotos as there was not much to see. Not until the last part when the clear blue lake Embalse de Yesa appeared and when I walked through a nice forested area. My newfound Camino family thought the stretch through the woods was a slog but I liked it since it was the only part of the stage with any shade.

Ruesta doesn't have any inhabitants, only the youngsters running the albergue with the bar/restaurant. But there was a lot of people: us eight pilgrims as well as cyclists, tourists, hikers... We had dinner in the evening and breakfast would be prepared for us early in the morning.

I must say I got a bit worried when I arrived at the albergue. From the outside it looks like Woodstock 1969. You know you're on the Camino Francés when these new-age-zen-we-wrap-our-albergue-in-flags places appear. Luckily the interior was ok. My individual room (20 euros) was free from political symbols, ska-punk, dreadlocks and questionable substances. And I'm not even on the main Camino Francés yet...

I've already called ahead to Puente la Reina to get a place at a hostal. From there I travel to Bilbao to start another Camino. I don't think I would survive on the Camino Francés from Puente la Reina... But I still have three days to get there.

Next installment coming soon!

LIVE from the Camino BP on the Catalán, June-July 2024

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