LIVE from the Camino BP on the Baztán June 2023

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi everyone and welcome back to my channel!

Just wanted to let you know I will start the Camino Baztán from Bayonne in less than a week. Writing about it here will give me something to do in the afternoons...! If anyone is interested in my adventures and misfortunes you will find them here.

I walk to Pamplona, then I will attempt the little travelled Camino Viejo from Pamplona to Ponferrada. After that... I am not sure: continue on the Invierno (for the umpteenth time) or travel to Valencia to walk the Lana from there (a second time). After that I still have a couple of weeks to kill so feel free to suggest some less known routes to me! Sorry, but the Camino Francés is not my cup of tea...

Guides for the Camino Viejo are scarce. Not even Gronze can help me. I have found resources but much less than, for example, the Requena last year. Oh well, we will see how it goes...

BP

 

[peregrina2000]

Aha, curious minds were wondering where you were going to go when you finished the Baztán.

VN led a covid confinement group planning effort on the Viejo, have you seen it? (On the forum, we use “Olvidado” for Bilbao to Villafrance del Bierzo/Ponferrada and “Viejo” for Pamplona to Aguilar de Campoo (which is where it joins up with the Olvidado).

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/detailed-planning-for-viejo-olvidado-from-pamplona.67492/

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Aha, curious minds were wondering where you were going to go when you finished the Baztán.

VN led a covid confinement group planning effort on the Viejo, have you seen it? (On the forum, we use “Olvidado” for Bilbao to Villafrance del Bierzo/Ponferrada and “Viejo” for Pamplona to Aguilar de Campoo (which is where it joins up with the Olvidado).

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/detailed-planning-for-viejo-olvidado-from-pamplona.67492/

Yes I have read it. It will be of great help. I think it will be easier to navigate after Aguilar as there seems to more info about the Olvidado from Bilbao (Ender's guide? and so on). As far as Miranda de Ebro I am on familiar ground because I know the Vasco. Between Miranda de Ebro and Aguilar will be the real challenge! I find it really difficult to plan this time.

 

[WestKirsty]

Nice! I look forward to following along! I'm on the Veijo right now - more or less. I've been posting where I've been staying and where there's water/services etc. I left Miranda de Ebro a few days ago and it's a beautiful route!

 

[Charlie Davenport]

Valencia, ES or Valenca, PT ? One little letter "i" is a 900km difference

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Valencia, ES or Valenca, PT ? One little letter "i" is a 900km difference

It is Valencia in Spain! I was there last year, but couldn't walk the stages I wanted because I was so ill-prepared. I am back for revenge this year..........

 

[Former member 104756]

We walked the Baztan about a month ago. Wonderful path. Enjoy

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

We walked the Baztan about a month ago. Wonderful path. Enjoy

And no problems with accomodation? I plan on relying on Gronze as it is always up to date (?)

 

[Former member 104756]

Hi @Bad Pilgrim We had no problem - we stayed in a mixture of accommodation as suited the stages we decided as we went along. We also relied on Gronze

Day 0 - Bayonne - Refuge Saint Jacques (14 places, modern, clean, lovely welcome from volunteers, you can reserve)
Day 1 - Espelette - Hotel Euzkadi (a splurge - and fabulous dinner)
Day 2 - Urdax - Monastery albergue - we decided on this short day to make the most of our hotel and Espelette, stay at the Monastery, and have the steep climb that follows in the morning rather than the afternoon. Happy with that decision.
Day 3 - Ziga - Posada de Ziga - lovely host, demi pension
Day 4 - Lantz albergue municipal - we were going to continue to Olague, but we’d had a long tough day (not due to kms, but wet weather and lots of water flowing down the mountain)
Day 5 - Pamplona.

We rang on the day / day before for the Monastery, Ziga and Lantz. For the Monastery and Lantz, to make sure someone was available to come with the key. We were the only two in both.

We saw one pilgrim on the first day who was walking on to Urdax so we didn’t see him again. We saw three other pilgrims later, walking in reverse from Pamplona. That’s it!

Let me know if any other questions in case I can help. Hope you have better weather than we did. Lots of rain for 4 days out of 5 - but we loved it anyway

 

[Former member 104756]

PS. So the last day to Pamplona was our longest in kms but we found it easy walking compared to Days 2, 3 and 4. And even easier if you’ve stayed in Olague the night before.

 

[Kiwi-family]

Have you done the Mozarabe too many times?

 

[Leemac40]

Hi everyone and welcome back to my channel!

Just wanted to let you know I will start the Camino Baztán from Bayonne in less than a week. Writing about it here will give me something to do in the afternoons...! If anyone is interested in my adventures and misfortunes you will find them here.

I walk to Pamplona, then I will attempt the little travelled Camino Viejo from Pamplona to Ponferrada. After that... I am not sure: continue on the Invierno (for the umpteenth time) or travel to Valencia to walk the Lana from there (a second time). After that I still have a couple of weeks to kill so feel free to suggest some less known routes to me! Sorry, but the Camino Francés is not my cup of tea...

Guides for the Camino Viejo are scarce. Not even Gronze can help me. I have found resources but much less than, for example, the Requena last year. Oh well, we will see how it goes...

BP

Will be following your journey, I'm starting the Baztan in September, first 'unplanned' Camino so will be interested in hearing about accommodation along the way. Only have 2 weeks so going to try and reach Burgos! Buen Camino amigo

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Have you done the Mozarabe too many times?

I have yet to start in Jaen, but that is only a couple of stages that would be new to me then... and I think walking the Mozárabe in July would be terribly hot!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Will be following your journey, I'm starting the Baztan in September, first 'unplanned' Camino so will be interested in hearing about accommodation along the way. Only have 2 weeks so going to try and reach Burgos! Buen Camino amigo

September sounds like a perfect month to walk...! I think accomodation is ok when I glance at Gronze. I haven't made that much planning for this Camino either. I think 5 stages is ok to reach Pamplona. Yes, with 2 weeks Burgos should be within reach for you. Buen camino!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

I have a million things to do before I go tomorrow; so stressed.

I plan to start walking on Thursday. I arrive in Bayonne in the afternoon. Any suggestions how to pass the evening in Bayonne would be appreciated...

I never visit the Associations offices to get the first stamp (if there is any in Bayonne??) so no worry about that. My first stamp is usually from the local grocery store, a café at the corner, the hotel staff, the crazy cat lady, or whatever...

If I arrive as planned I start posting on Thursday, hopefully with a bit of pictures from sightseeing in Bayonne.

Ciao!

 

[Former member 104756]

Le Refuge de Saint Jaques is not far from the Catedral if you want to pop in. We have stayed there but we also popped in another time when we were visiting and received a warm welcome from the volunteers.

As for Bayonne, I don’t have any particular recommendations for things to do - other than enjoy. It’s a nice place to stroll around, especially when it’s not dark until quite late.

 

[VNwalking]

Just wanted to let you know I will start the Camino Baztán from Bayonne in less than a week.

Woo hoo. Looking forward!
Buen Camino, may it be a joy.

I never visit the Associations offices to get the first stamp (if there is any in Bayonne??)

I vaguely remember getting one at the cathedral, which is very nice.

This is a surprisingly challenging little camino, with some mellow terrain and some biggish climbs. Ziga to Lantz would be a killer day.

 

[Caroline de Wit]

Following!!! I am thinking about walking the Baztan starting the 13th of july. First I will be in Conques (France) to work as a hospitalero. After that I have some time left and the Baztan looks like a good idea!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 0. Bayonne

I made it! After 12 hours o travelling I am in my Hôtel des Arceaux in central Bayonne. I chose it just to be close the cathedral/starting point tomorrow. It is cloudy and humid. I need to go hunting for food, for a couple of refillable water bottles and for the cathedral so I can start walking tomorrow. Andy in Espelette told me to send him an sms but he hasn't answered yet, about accommodation in Espelette. I hope he doesn't forget me!

I only have grey pictures from a rainy Bayonne to offer today.

 

[SabsP]

Day 0. Bayonne

I made it! After 12 hours o travelling I am in my Hôtel des Arceaux in central Bayonne. I chose it just to be close the cathedral/starting point tomorrow. It is cloudy and humid. I need to go hunting for food, for a couple of refillable water bottles and for the cathedral so I can start walking tomorrow. Andy in Espelette told me to send him an sms but he hasn't answered yet, about accommodation in Espelette. I hope he doesn't forget me!

I only have grey pictures from a rainy Bayonne to offer today.

Carrefour City just across the corner of your hotel.

Good luck for Espelette!

 

[dougfitz]

It's great to see you on the move again.

 

[Former member 104756]

I only have grey pictures from a rainy Bayonne to offer today.

Hi @Bad Pilgrim I hope you have better weather tomorrow. Surely it won't be like we had in May - with the way to Espelette impassable once we were low in the valley. I wrote about it here with a photo and video.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/path-flooded-after-ustaritz-on-way-to-espelette-souraide.80700/

There had been torrential rain for about a week beforehand. It was quite the adventure ... which I don't wish for you! But the local people told us it was a highly unusual event.

 

[Former member 104756]

Ps @Bad Pilgrim On tomorrow's walk, you will pass by Eglise Saint Vincent d'Ustaritz. I'm not one for stopping at every church. But this one is quite something. We were delighted we went inside. A sneak peek.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi @Bad Pilgrim I hope you have better weather tomorrow. Surely it won't be like we had in May - with the way to Espelette impassable once we were low in the valley. I wrote about it here with a photo and video.

https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community/threads/path-flooded-after-ustaritz-on-way-to-espelette-souraide.80700/

There had been torrential rain for about a week beforehand. It was quite the adventure ... which I don't wish for you! But the local people told us it was a highly unusual event.

It is raining hard right now, I forgot to stamp my credential and Andy in Espelette hasn't answered if there is room for me or not. Oh well... I will have to get a good night's sleep and start anew tomorrow. Impassable roads mat very well be the case because it will rain tomorrow as well I think...

 

[Former member 104756]

It is raining hard right now, I forgot to stamp my credential and Andy in Espelette hasn't answered if there is room for me or not. Oh well... I will have to get a good night's sleep and start anew tomorrow. Impassable roads mat very well be the case because it will rain tomorrow as well I think...

Hopefully not. Our impression was that it was the result of very heavy rain for the week before. Hope you hear from Andy - the hotel euzkadi was great but a splurge on both counts. I’d walk the Baztan again in a heartbeat

 

[Leemac40]

Day 0. Bayonne

I made it! After 12 hours o travelling I am in my Hôtel des Arceaux in central Bayonne. I chose it just to be close the cathedral/starting point tomorrow. It is cloudy and humid. I need to go hunting for food, for a couple of refillable water bottles and for the cathedral so I can start walking tomorrow. Andy in Espelette told me to send him an sms but he hasn't answered yet, about accommodation in Espelette. I hope he doesn't forget me!

I only have grey pictures from a rainy Bayonne to offer today.

I'm feeling your excitement and look forward to vicariously living through your pictures and stories of your experience Buen Camino

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Very emotional to see the first waymark this morning, next to the river. First stop: this café in Ustaritz, hiding from the intermittent rain. But I keep going to Espelette as Mr Andy responded last night. It is a long stage for a first stage, at least by my standards, and my legs are already tired...

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 1: Bayonne - Espelette, 25 kms

It rained the whole morning. It eventually subsided, but the sun didn't break through until I was almost in Espelette. After that it has been a sunny afternoon. Espelette is a little town where all the houses bathe in bright white and red basque colors. It seems to have quite a lot of tourists now in the summer months.

There was mud in the woods after Ustariz. Probably no more than 100 mtrs but it slowed me down considerably. I could have avoided the whole thing if I had stayed on the road..! There is a reason why I love walking on asphalt...

In Espelette I stay at Andy's place, which is a work in progress: a combined albergue/art gallery. Everything with subaquatic motives. He is currently working on a painting that is 35 square mtrs and he gave me a tour of it. It is 25 euros (the room, not the tour). Breakfast included. He will prepare breakfast for me so I can have it when I rise early tomorrow. I also phoned the hospitalera in Maya and there would be no problem staying there tomorrow. I always phone one day ahead now... I have had my fair share of unpleasant surprises when it comes to lodging on the Caminos.

There is a another pilgrim here, José Luis. But he says he will stop earlier in Urdax tomorrow. I am excited to cross the border to Spain! My trail runners hope for no more rain and that the sun will dry out the mud...

 

[Former member 104756]

Woo hoo Day 1 done and dusted - lovely blue skies and somewhere to sleep. We didn't stay the night in Maya but it looked delightful! Enjoy this evening and tomorrow's walk. For what it's worth, the climb after Urdax was not as difficult as we thought it would be.

 

[C clearly]

I always phone one day ahead now... I have had my fair share of unpleasant surprises when it comes to lodging on the Caminos.

Yes, good advice! Maybe even two days ahead for the untraveled routes, especially for weekends.

I hope the weather improves and stays good. I'm enjoying following you along.

 

[Former member 104756]

Yes, good advice! Maybe even two days ahead for the untraveled routes, especially for weekends.

So true. Many albergues are unattended. Will the albergue be open? Is there someone to bring a key? Is the one bar or shop (if there is one) open or do we need to bring food with us?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Finally in Ainhoa after getting totally lost at Col de Piñacolada (pretty sure that was the name). 100 signs pointing in the wrong direction at the crossing with carretera D20. After X hours I furiously traced a straight line down to Ainhoa with my GPS and went down the hills like a fire truck, parting a sea of grass, cows and goats in my way. So I already added several kms to the day's walk. Not what I had planned for my feet on the second day. There are less than 2 kms to the border. Who knows if I will get there...

 

[SabsP]

All the best @Bad Pilgrim !
Indeed , soon you will cross the border...

Souraïde - Amaiur/Maya | Al Loro | Camino de Baztan | Gronze.com

Consejos y recomendaciones de la etapa Souraïde - Amaiur/Maya en Camino de Baztan: Sugerencias, advertencias y cuestiones prácticas a saber antes de empezar cada etapa

www.gronze.com

Take care.

 

[Former member 104756]

Hi @Bad Pilgrim Sorry you had that drama.

On our recent Baztan, we used Wikiloc tracks for the first time ever. I downloaded the tracks on the night of Day 1 in Espelette after having the problem with floodwaters on that first day and having to detour from the path. It was certainly helpful getting out of Espelette the next day, before you rejoin thé camino at the Col. Other than that we found the waymarking generally good - but I had my phone in my pocket to alert me if we went off track. It only beeped a couple of times but I was grateful when it did.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi @Bad Pilgrim Sorry you had that drama.

On our recent Baztan, we used Wikiloc tracks for the first time ever. I downloaded the tracks on the night of Day 1 in Espelette after having the problem with floodwaters on that first day and having to detour from the path. It was certainly helpful getting out of Espelette the next day, which as you know is not ‘on the Camino’. After that we found the waymarking generally good - but I had my phone in my pocket to alert me if we went off track. It only beeped a couple of times but I was grateful when it did.

I am in El Truck Stop in Daintxarinea now. There were large yellow arrows as soon as I crossed the Spanish border. I hope it will stay that way...!

 

[Former member 104756]

There were large yellow arrows as soon as I crossed the Spanish border. I hope it will stay that way...!

I'm sure it will all be fine. We were particularly grateful for those who had painted the yellow arrows in the forested mountain area en route to Ermita de Santiago. They were large, frequent and looked to be freshly painted - they seem to be saying emphatically - GO THIS WAY.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 2: Espelette - Maya, 22 kms + getting lost

After Urdax, I started walking up the murderous hills approximately 1 km/hour. No wonder José Luis caught up with me. He had decided not to stay at the monastery in Urdax, but to continue to Maya were his friends will take him by car to accommodation in a nearby town. So I am all alone in the large albergue in Maya. But the hospitalera told me another pilgrim will show up later in the evening.

After getting lost this morning, I got lost a second time with José Luis in a junction were no arrows were to be seen: now confirmed by two pair of eyes. My cellphone was close to 0 % when we got to Maya since I was using it all the time to check Google maps. All the while, José Luis informed be about the animals, the hiking routes, the history of the region of Navarra and what there is to see in Maya. I could check out the monument of the last resistance of Navarra, erected on the top of the nearby hill in the evening. But right now my legs feel like two concrete step barriers.

Of course the Valley of Baztán is breathtaking: sparkling green with waterfalls next to the Camino and some fuentes with refreshing water. But I am still not used to the distances and the terrain so it was mostly a day of suffering. Except when I chatted with José Luis, which was entertaining and made the time pass a little faster.

There is nowhere to buy food in Maya, not even a bar. The hospitalera told me there is a cervecería open in the evening. I hope they sell some crisps, nuts or whatever so I can survive the night. I did buy a few things back in in Daintxarinea but not enough by any means.

I plan to walk to Berroeta tomorrow so I can have a shorter stage (less than 20 kms) and rest my legs a little. And hopefully sate my hunger in Elizondo on the way.

Tag along if you want!

 

[Former member 104756]

Hi @Bad Pilgrim If you are planning to stay in the albergue in Lantz or Olangue, I'd recommend when you call the albergue to check if it's open / arrange the key, you also check if the bar is open on the day you will be there.

From memory each of those towns has one bar but it was closed on the day we were in Lantz. Thankfully we had bought some bits and pieces of emergency food at the border town on Day 2, most of which we had carried since then.

But, as it turned out, the delightful Isabel who brought the key to open the albergue I think took pity on us having walked most of a tough day in the rain -- and she brought us some food from her home that we could cook (pasta, sardines in tomato sauce) and some fruit for the following morning, which we added to the biscuits we were carrying - oh, and a bottle of vino tinto. We paid her for all of this - a very modest price. It was a feast. I don't know that she can always do this but we did see a comment in the visitors' book that she had done this for other pilgrims on another occasion.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Hi @Bad Pilgrim If you are planning to stay in the albergue in Lantz or Olangue, I'd recommend when you call the albergue to check if it's open / arrange the key, you also check if the bar is open on the day you will be there.

From memory each of those towns has one bar but it was closed on the day we were in Lantz. Thankfully we had bought some bits and pieces of emergency food at the border town on Day 2, most of which we had carried since then.

But, as it turned out, the delightful Isabel who bought the key to open the albergue I think took pity on us having walked most of a tough day in the rain -- and she brought us some food from her home that we could cook (pasta, sardines in tomato sauce) and some fruit for the following morning, which we added to the biscuits we were carrying - oh, and a bottle of vino tinto. We paid her for all of this - a very modest price. It was a feast. I don't know that she can always do this but we did see a comment in the visitors' book that she had done this for other pilgrims on another occasion.

I think I am going for Olagüe, to even out the last stages. Thanks, I will keep that in mind! I will be stocking up on food in every large-ish town from now on...

 

[Former member 104756]

I think I am going for Olagüe, to even out the last stages. Thanks, I will keep that in mind! I will be stocking up on food in every large-ish town from now on...

Good idea - we always carried a few snacks, just in case. We had planned to go to Olague for our 4th night, but we had a tough day from Ziga to Lantz and were told by a pilgrim coming 'in reverse' that there was a knee deep river crossing between Lantz and Olague. I just wasn't up for it at the end of a long day. Again, that wasn't usual - just the result of the inundation of the week before. And as it turned out, we didn't have to make the crossing - the next morning Isabel drove us the 5 kms to Olague! In any case, you can walk that whole section on the road if that doesn't bother you.

Olague to Pamplona is an easy walk compared to Days 2, 3 and 4. One lovely surprise for us on our last day - about half way between Olague and Pamplona, there is a bar / restaurant at Sorauren in a delightful setting by the river. It's just over a small bridge to the left of the path. We had lunch there.

pS. We were fine in Lantz, ate and slept well, and grateful for Isabel. But in reading Gronze, Olague has a little more to offer and a ‘better / cleaner’ albergue - so it’s probably good to continue on.

 

[VNwalking]

On your way to Beroeta,make sure you stop in Elizondo for food. The albergue is super, but there's nothing up there in the way of food.
(Elizondo has food stores and a stellar pastry shop. Don't miss it!
https://malkorra.com/ )

 

[Former member 104756]

On your way to Beroeta,make sure you stop in Elizondo for food. The albergue is super, but there's nothing up there in the way of food.
(Elizondo has food stores and a stellar pastry shop. Don't miss it!
https://malkorra.com/ )

I think we need a YUM emoji on the forum

 

[VNwalking]

I think we need a YUM emoji on the forum

@ivar, Yes please.

 

[Bernice M]

BP,
Just to take you back to the Sanabres, I stopped the night at Bandeira in the junta albergue, solely in order to go once again to the fabulous bakery there. I confirm that the wonderful filled brioche-like tart is called a Golosa nata. I told the proprietor that I dreamed of it and this was my third visit. Even I didn't have the gall to ask for the recipe, but there are many online, and I'll consult my Spanish recipe books when I return to NZ next week.

BP, I know your professed culinary skills are zilch, but I will work on the recipe, as it needs to find a place in my repertoire, and inform you of a fool-proof version in due course. Maybe you will find someone to make it. Otherwise read it and imagine.

I had a second slice for you.

 

[VNwalking]

Just to take you back to the Sanabres, I stopped the night at Bandeira in the junta albergue, solely in order to go once again to the fabulous bakery there. I confirm that the wonderful filled brioche-like tart is called a Golosa nata. I told the proprietor that I dreamed of it and this was my third visit

Oh boy. Happy memories.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

So far so good: breakfast in the luxurious panadería in Elizondo. The napolitanas are otherworldly...! I went on a shopping frenzy in the nearby Eroski supermarket: I refuse to go hungry in Berroeta!! Cool and cloudy so perfect weather for walking.

 

[Former member 104756]

Further evidence that the forum really is in need of a YUM emoji.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Further evidence that the forum really is in need of a YUM emoji.

THIS as the youngsters write nowadays.

Where can I sign the petition?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

BP,
Just to take you back to the Sanabres, I stopped the night at Bandeira in the junta albergue, solely in order to go once again to the fabulous bakery there. I confirm that the wonderful filled brioche-like tart is called a Golosa nata. I told the proprietor that I dreamed of it and this was my third visit. Even I didn't have the gall to ask for the recipe, but there are many online, and I'll consult my Spanish recipe books when I return to NZ next week.

BP, I know your professed culinary skills are zilch, but I will work on the recipe, as it needs to find a place in my repertoire, and inform you of a fool-proof version in due course. Maybe you will find someone to make it. Otherwise read it and imagine.

I had a second slice for you.

Fantastic! Golosa nata - I will ask for them wherever I go. I also got them in Centro social in Sobradelo on the Invierno. I suspect those came from a box straight from the fridge, still I loved them! And in Dulce Deza, as you know, they are exquisite. If you get your hands on the recipe, please forward. Although the chance I would be able to make anything that closely resembles them is probably 0. It is more likely I will blow up the kitchen.

 

[Bernice M]

I recommend you cut your culinary teeth on Delia Smith. Copies available at charity stores, el cheapo. I will frame my recipe along the same lines: foolproof.

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Further evidence that the forum really is in need of a YUM emoji.

I think that one works fine! I use it quite often when talking about yummy food.

 

[Leemac40]

As I'm planning on following in ur footsteps, bad pilgrim, hopefully with less detours my grasp on technology is getting worse instead of better. After downloading a couple of apps that should hopefully help with navigation I realize I've no idea how to use them I usually use Buen Camino app when lost, would this be effective for keeping on track on the Baztan or is there any others which are easy to use?

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Delia Smith

Never heard of her - for obvious reasons! I will look into it.

 

[Former member 104756]

As I'm planning on following in ur footsteps, bad pilgrim, hopefully with less detours my grasp on technology is getting worse instead of better. After downloading a couple of apps that should hopefully help with navigation I realize I've no idea how to use them I usually use Buen Camino app when lost, would this be effective for keeping on track on the Baztan or is there any others which are easy to use?

Hi there. On our recent Baztan we downloaded Wikiloc tracks (me) and Buen Camino app (my husband). It was the first time we’d ever used any navigation or other app, so we tried both.

Thé Wikiloc seemed to work better for navigation as it ‘alerted’ me on the few occasions we went off track. The Buen Camino didn’t alert us. That said, we were newbies with both so quite possibly user error in relation to the Buen Camino app. For accommodation, distance and elevation information we relied on Gronze

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 3: Maya - Berroeta, 19 kms

Yesterday in Maya, the hospitalera took one look at my emaciated face and hollow eyes and suggested that she fetch me some food from her home nearby. I got a few eggs, yoghurt, ham, and bread. Together with the pickings I had brought from Daintxarinea, it was enough for a meal in the evening and breakfast this morning. I didn't starve after all.

Before 9 p.m. (!) appeared Jaume-from-Valencia. He started in Bayonne the same day! I almost got a heart attack when I learned that he had walked about 47 kms in one go! I told him there is a brewery/cervecería in town with homemade beer so he took an extra walk in the evening to check it out. I wish I could feel that good after a long stage..! He needs a shorter day today though so we will both stay in the spacious albergue in Berroeta, where I am now.

Today's walk started with fog and drizzle. With easy walked roads and little hamlets along the way, in the mist, it reminded me of some stages on the Camino de Invierno. Later the sun came through and I walked through the prettiest basque towns I have seen so far. The surroundings are stunning, and much easier to walk than yesterday.

To make up for the strenuous stage yesterday, I stopped to relax in virtually every café that came in my way. The first one was a surprise: only a few kms after Maya there is a kind of industrial area with roadside bars and restaurants. I also had a café in the large town of Elizondo, and in Irureta which was probably the cutest pueblo of this stage. The café owner in Irureta is the mother of the hospitalera in Maya! So she knew about me even before I entered the café. Although she didn't know if I was me or if I was Jaume, of course. The picturesqe square in Irureta was full of cyclists, going in for landing or taking off to the many roads and bike trails in the area.

I ran into the hospitalera in Berroeta so I didn't even need to call the albergue. It is only 8 euros but very clean and the kitchen is well equipped. Just that there is no bar or restaurant in town. I will take a siesta and wait for Jaume to show up, with his review of the brewery in Maya...

 

[Former member 104756]

The first one was a surprise: only a few kms after Maya there is a kind of industrial area with roadside bars and restaurants.

What a great day. . This cafe was a happy surprise for us too. Enjoyed an excellent tortilla pinxtos and cafe con leche. Gréât photos

 

[Theatregal]

Happy to be following along with you again BP!

 

[SabsP]

This thread makes me happy!
Thank you for sharing...

 

[VNwalking]

Gorgeous day tomorrow. If you stop in at Hostal Venta San Blas, the lady there can give you a lot of information about the area.

So far so good: breakfast in the luxurious panadería in Elizondo. The napolitanas are otherworldly...! I went on a shopping frenzy in the nearby Eroski supermarket

That sounds a bit more than good.

I think that one works fine! I use it quite often when talking about yummy food.

Thay mean a reaction emoji, the kind you can click where it says "like".

 

[C clearly]

there is a brewery/cervecería in town with homemade beer so he took an extra walk in the evening to check it out. I wish I could feel that good after a long stage..!

I know exactly how you feel!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Finally in Olagüe. Pictured: puppy attack of the day. I wish all free roaming dogs were as cute as this one in Almándoz..! When he understood that my calves would not be his private playground, he ran home again but not before following me quite a while. Adorable.



The albergue in Olagüe is just as big as in Berroeta but Jaume and I are the only ones here so far. There is a fiesta in town this evening so the hospitalera said there is a chance to get something to drink and to nibble on (since there is normally no bar or restaurant here). She is also the owner of the town's quesería, so at least we will have cheese to eat this evening. I will certainly buy from her. A longer post coming up later... I must sleep now

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 4: Berroeta - Olagüe, 20 kms

Impressive scenery, almost completely in the woods. It reminded me of the second stage to Maya. Much water in the streams, greenery and wildlife all around. I could have felt isolated but there were hikers coming from the opposite direction from time to time. The Venta de San Blas was closed so there was nowhere to get anything to drink or eat.

Beautiful yes, but very hard. There was mud, especially at the highest point which is almost the only stretch that is not in the woods on this stage. I suppose there are cattle who stamp up the ground. On the way down to the monastery Santa María de Belate I had to watch every step because it was steep, rocky and muddy at the same time and very hot by then. I had problems with flies and mosquitos all through the day and it took away part of the joy with the walking.

I helped a ten-year-old boy from Lantz to push his bike through an overgrown path between Lantz and Olagüe. He wanted to go there because there is a fiesta today. Which was good news to me because that means people could be there selling food. I only have bread, biscuits and two bananas left. But I found pasta in the albergue kitchen left by previous pilgrims so I will survive.

The albergue is 8 euros, has 16 beds and is an annex to the church. It is on the second floor. The first floor is a place where youngsters gathered last night during the first day of the town's celebrations. Beer cans, plastics and cigarettes were still scattered all over the lawn. I listened in horror as the hospitalera told me about an "incident" last night: those malevolent, ebriated juvenile delinquents had bothered the group of pilgrims who stayed here yesterday. Home invasion!! At least albergue invasion. She told me there would be no problem if we locked both doors. Luckily the kitchen is well equipped: I will be waiting with a wooden rolling pin if anyone dares to enter.

I am looking forward to Pamplona tomorrow! I booked a room in a hostal, not cheap but I need a change from the albergues...

 

[Former member 104756]

The first floor is a place where youngsters gathered last night during the first day of the town's celebrations. Beer cans, plastics and cigarettes were still scattered all over the lawn. I listened in horror as the hospitalera told me about an "incident" last night: those malevolent, ebriated juvenile delincuents had bothered the group of pilgrims who stayed here yesterday. Home invasion!! At least albergue invasion. She told me there would be no problem if we locked both doors. Luckily the kitchen is well equipped: I will be waiting with a wooden rolling pin if anyone dares to enter.

Gosh, BP - that is a real shame. Hope all will be quiet. But your photos did bring back recent memories. I thought it was a gorgeous part of the Baztan, albeit difficult and we had water water everywhere. I have a 'matching' photo of yours - mine looking glamorous indeed.

Wishing you a peaceful night and a leisurely stroll in to Pamplona tomorrow.

 

[C clearly]

The albergue kitchen must be well equipped if there is a rolling pin. Will you be making a pie? You could use that as another weapon.

 

[peregrina2000]

lawn. I listened in horror as the hospitalera told me about an "incident" last night: those malevolent, ebriated juvenile delincuents had bothered the group of pilgrims who stayed here yesterday. Home invasion!!

I heard that the owner of the Quiroga albergue knew you were on the Baztán and wanted to spice up your evening, so he sent out his crew of juvenile delinquents.

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

First coffee in 48 hours..! In Sorauren. From the outside the posada-restaurant looked closed and deserted: not until I stepped inside I noticed there were a couple of costumers inside chatting with the owners. To get there you need to leave the Camino and enter Sorauren by the bridge, but it is only 100 mtrs away. It is kind of hidden from view by the river, but an ideal place for a bar. Never did a cup of coffee taste this good..! - Jaume just arrived so I guess I will have company to Pamplona!

 

[Leemac40]

This is by far the most alarming update about the route....no coffee for 2 days I will need to bring a supply!!!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

This is by far the most alarming update about the route....no coffee for 2 days I will need to bring a supply!!!

I know!! I suggest you buy a supply of coffee in Elizondo, because otherwise you will endure 2 or 3 days of coffeelessness *just invented the word* until Pamplona! There might just be instant coffee left by a hospitalero or previous peregrinos in the albergues, but you can't count on it. And I need milk with it so I can't drink it anyway...

 

[Leemac40]

I know!! I suggest you buy a supply of coffee in Elizondo, because otherwise you will endure 2 or 3 days of coffeelessness *just invented the word* until Pamplona! There might just be instant coffee left by a hospitalero or previous peregrinos in the albergues, but you can't count on it. And I need milk with it so I can't drink it anyway...

This could almost make me rethink my Camino luckily I've recently discovered coffee bags so will stock up on that and vino tinto

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Day 5: Olagüe - Pamplona, 24 kms

Today was mostly flat or downhill, nothing like the previous days. The only thing that is consistent is the mud. I took one step wrong and soaked my left shoe inches deep. Oh well, I guess I am prepared for the Camino Viejo now !

A starving Jaume joined me for a coffee and sandwiches in Sorauren, as well as a guy from Barcelona who said he had seen no other pilgrim en route since Bayona. He had started hiking and walking Caminos during the pandemic and now he can't stop doing it! One good thing that comes out of a pandemic I suppose.

The walk to Pamplona was super easy. Time flew by and soon we were at the bridge in Trinidad de Arre where the Baztán joins the Francés. There was a lonely pilgrim coming over the bridge from the Francés side. Not the wave of pilgrims that I had imagined. Of course, we then spotted them here and there as we approached the centre of Pamplona.

Another café con leche at the Plaza del Castillo to celebrate our victory, then I continued to my hostal Bearán (55 euros, gasp!!) next to the church/square San Nicolás. And my first laundromat of this camino - hooray!! No camino is complete without a laundromat; I think I read that in the Codex Calixtinus.

I have done far too little research about the Camino Viejo that starts in Pamplona. I will check out all the info I have gotten from cool pilgrims like @WestKirsty and @Caminka, and take one day at a time. Therefore I will move over to the Viejo section of the Forum and start a new thread there. I am thankful for all the cheers, tips & tricks I have gotten from you all during the Baztán. If you want more unfocused pictures, misfortunes, ramblings, and the ultimate destruction of english as a second language, you can join me in the Viejo thread from tomorrow. Ciao!

 

[VNwalking]

I heard that the owner of the Quiroga albergue knew you were on the Baztán and wanted to spice up your evening, so he sent out his crew of juvenile delinquents.

Best post of the day.

I think I read that in the Codex Calixtinus.

My Latin must be faulty. I missed that part.

you can join me in the Viejo thread from tomorrow. Ciao!

Can't wait. Hope you have as good of a camino as @WestKirsty and as much fun as we did on the virtual thread.!

 

[NadineK]

Finally in Olagüe. Pictured: puppy attack of the day. I wish all free roaming dogs were as cute as this one in Almándoz..! When he understood that my calves would not be his private playground, he ran home again but not before following me quite a while. Adorable.

View attachment 150202

The albergue in Olagüe is just as big as in Berroeta but Jaume and I are the only ones here so far. There is a fiesta in town this evening so the hospitalera said there is a chance to get something to drink and to nibble on (since there is normally no bar or restaurant here). She is also the owner of the town's quesería, so at least we will have cheese to eat this evening. I will certainly buy from her. A longer post coming up later... I must sleep now

@Bad Pilgrim I saw your puppy friend in Almándoz today! I’d just walked through town and was climbing up a steel hill when I heard a small commotion on the road. I looked down to see a small dog running alongside of a biker, occasionally trying to jump up and join the ride. I watched for awhile: more bikers huffed and puffed up the hill, the dog tried to say hi to each of them. I’m sure it was a nuisance to them but I could only laugh because I recognized the dog from your photo! A few weeks later, he is still the mayor of the village.

Thanks for your posts from the Baztan; I’m at the end of day 4 now and it’s been (hard) great!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

@Bad Pilgrim I saw your puppy friend in Almándoz today! I’d just walked through town and was climbing up a steel hill when I heard a small commotion on the road. I looked down to see a small dog running alongside of a biker, occasionally trying to jump up and join the ride. I watched for awhile: more bikers huffed and puffed up the hill, the dog tried to say hi to each of them. I’m sure it was a nuisance to them but I could only laugh because I recognized the dog from your photo! A few weeks later, he is still the mayor of the village.

Thanks for your posts from the Baztan; I’m at the end of day 4 now and it’s been (hard) great!

Wow, Nadine, hi!! I love your YouTube videos (Nadine Walks = ???)

Yes the doggie was so cute!

Day 5 will be much easier: mostly downhill to Pamplona!

Take care!!

 

[NadineK]

Wow, Nadine, hi!! I love your YouTube videos (Nadine Walks = ???)

Yes the doggie was so cute!

Day 5 will be much easier: mostly downhill to Pamplona!

Take care!!

Yes, that’s me!! I’ve been a forum member/lurker even longer than I’ve been a YouTuber (oh, I shudder a little to call myself that), and I’ve “followed” you here for awhile. I just love your writing style and humor, so I always look forward to your posts!

Glad tomorrow will be easier, my pack has been far too heavy and my legs were protesting more than usual today…

But the sun was out and the Belate pass was stunning!

 

[Bad Pilgrim]

Yes, that’s me!! I’ve been a forum member/lurker even longer than I’ve been a YouTuber (oh, I shudder a little to call myself that), and I’ve “followed” you here for awhile. I just love your writing style and humor, so I always look forward to your posts!

Glad tomorrow will be easier, my pack has been far too heavy and my legs were protesting more than usual today…

But the sun was out and the Belate pass was stunning!

Buen Camino! I hope there wasn't too much mud before Pamplona! The only thing I found difficult on this stage.

Will you post your journey on YouTube?

 

[aussieredhat]

Baztan - Urdax
Stayed late sept 2023 An honest review
Beautiful & not many pilgrims approximately 500 person per year.

Urdax - No other options in this hamlet unless high end hotel. No breakfast & long day ahead & I got a take away cheese & bread for next day. I think the bar may have done evening meals - did not open until 10 am in morning .
Because of previous reviews on Gronze , I had good hopes for the Monastery albergue. Staying in the monastery was nice. But toilets and showers were not clean. In fact very very dirty & smelly. The kitchen was exceptionally dirty & un Hygienic.

The meal was also disappointing. A bowl of bean soup , some salad and slices of bacon. We had to share half a bottle of red wine with 4 people. For the price of 12 euros.

Filth & smells & rubbish .
Grateful for bed & good company of family of 3 Spanish family pilgrims as we shared our views & confirmed my reaction .

My assumption - hospitalero volunteer fatigue /burn out. Priority is their wildlife rescue centre .
With 4 of us the total was €80 & the money is not being invested or contributed to the Albergues upkeep or cleaning .
Could be a gem with a little more care & cleaning .

 

[aussieredhat]

As above Urdax on the Baztan

 

[kptorrahk]

It's very unfortunate that the monastery in Urdax is the only affordable option. I found the hospitalero to be extremely unwelcoming, especially when I wasn't interested in the dinner. Also, the mattresses were stained with dirt and (what I saw as) blood so much, I got the heck out of there out of fear for bed bugs. Considering the hospitalero works in a wildlife reserve next door I wouldn't be surprised if bed bugs are carried in on a daily basis.
I was fortunate enough to be walking with a pilgrim who was also on holiday with his family so they drove me back to Ustaritz and returned me to the monastery in the morning. If I had been alone I would have begrudgingly continued to Amaia.

 

[VNwalking]

Considering the hospitalero works in a wildlife reserve next door I wouldn't be surprised if bed bugs are carried in on a daily basis.

That's a strange causal link to make. Bedbugs live in bedframes, buildings, and crevices near where beds are. Not in wildlife reserves.

 

[kptorrahk]

Ah, I walked with an experienced pilgrim and he made that connection. But you're right I don't know if that makes sense...