LIVE from the Camino BobY333 on the Salvador

[BobY333]

Now that’s timing! I was just trying to figure out how to post a “Live from the Camino”!

I’m also on the San Salvador, but two days behind your group.

First day in the books. León > La Robla.
It was a great day. Began with a cheer of encouragement (in Spanish) from a woman not far from Plaza San Marcos who understood I was walking to the (relatively untraveled and tough) San Salvador versus the (crowded and relatively flat) Frances. Then chatted in Spanish with a fellow peregrino for awhile before having the majority of the day to myself.

It’s really great to be back out here. For whatever reason, I love it. The only downside today was that it was hot hot hot (80s!) and gnats were a pain. The heat wasn’t new to me, but bugs? Never had them before.

Started around 7:30 and finished around 2. I felt strong and could have continued on, but I had a reservation at Pension Mundo to hold myself in check. Decided that I’d stay conservative and not “overdo it on the San Salvador (yet…).

Oh, and here’s a stat - saw more reptiles (5 - 4 lizards and a snake) than peregrinos (3)!

Staying in Pension Mundo too. She’s awesome. Very welcoming and enthusiastic. Room is basic, but nice and clean.

Mountains start tomorrow! A bit worried about the heat, but I’ll leave early and bring plenty of water.

 

[peregrina2000]

I felt strong and could have continued on, but I had a reservation at Pension Mundo to hold myself in check. Decided that I’d stay conservative and not “overdo it on the San Salvador (yet…).

This is the real downside of a “pre-planned Camino.” I have walked the Salvador four times now. The first three, I felt fine when I got to La Robla, and I just continued on to Pola de Gordón. The last time, Sept. 2021, I had everything reserved ahead and had figured I would book Pola. That was a mistake for me, but I was stuck. It was not a fun way to start the Salvador, because I was pretty zonked when I arrived. You are in the opposite situation — would have loved to do more, but you are stuck with a reservation.

I had a lot of gnats out of León as well, and I remember being very glad I could put on my sunglasses and my N95 mask and keep them away from my eyes and mouth!

Buen camino, Laurie

 

[Camino Chrissy]

Mountains start tomorrow! A bit worried about the heat, but I’ll leave early and bring plenty of water.

I've been reading about the heat being experienced on the Portuguese and now you are in the midst of it too; in a more northern region and surprisingly at higher elevations.
It seems only a week or two ago that pilgrims were experiencing some snow on the Frances in Roncesvalles and O'Cebreiro and I thought that a fluke as well.
All the best to you as you continue on!

 

[BobY333]

Just saw that this new thread was created. Posted this on the other:

Update: just walked by the Farmacía in La Robla. The signs reads 19:00, 33 degrees!

 

[BobY333]

One more thing to note - I just learned that the workers are back in La Robla. They’re dismantling the electric plant outside of town. The two huge cooling towers were taken down last Friday.

So, the woman here said that during the week it will be tough to find a bed. The weekends will be fine. I guess I got lucky! The place is full, and there are just two pilgrims here.

 

[Jim ME]

Bob… glad you are doing so well. I did not like the flies in stage two and three. Sunglasses and Covid mask worked. The flies do not impede or lower the absolute beauty of day two. Make sure you have food and water!!!
Jim

 

[El Cascayal]

This is the real downside of a “pre-planned Camino.” I have walked the Salvador four times now. The first three, I felt fine when I got to La Robla, and I just continued on to Pola de Gordón. The last time, Sept. 2021, I had everything reserved ahead and had figured I would book Pola. That was a mistake for me, but I was stuck. It was not a fun way to start the Salvador, because I was pretty zonked when I arrived. You are in the opposite situation — would have loved to do more, but you are stuck with a reservation.

I had a lot of gnats out of León as well, and I remember being very glad I could put on my sunglasses and my N95 mask and keep them away from my eyes and mouth!

Buen camino, Laurie

I had a lot of gnats out of León as well, and I remember being very glad I could put on my sunglasses and my N95 mask and keep them away from my eyes and mouth!

@BobY333 “gnats were a pain”.
I just got this hair net thingy after being dive bombed by bumblebees and too many close bees for comfort (I am highly allergic). Wearing the head net feels pretty ridiculous (nothing new in Peregrina land) but it will do the trick and weighs nothing.
Now someone save me from the slithering creatures.
Buen Camino and do keep posting. Hope it gets cooler for you! Aymarah

 

[BobY333]

Day 2
Easy, fairly early start. Fueled up with a great mushroom tortilla española at Buen Suceso for the climb ahead.

Passed through a few nice old villages before hitting Buiza and the tougher part. About 6k up up up. Poco a poco! Was rewarded with spectacular views and beautiful wildflowers. I was fortunate that the peregrina I’ve walked with was smart enough to take her shoes off and enjoy the mountain stream - done! Super cold from the snow melt of two weeks ago (what?!?) but felt so good on the feet, calves and shins.

Thought we were done when entering a village but nope - turned out to be San Martin de La Tércia, so still another 1-2k to go (and not flat). Turns out it could have been easier had we followed the road, but alas, we didn’t.
5 hours of walking the 24k, plus time to just enjoy. Pulled into the Albuerge around 2pm. Meeting Ender in a few minutes (!) then dinner at El Embrujo.

Anyway, another great day, and tomorrow is more “duro” but supposedly more incredible. We’ll see!

 

[BobY333]

@BobY333 “gnats were a pain”.
I just got this hair net thingy after being dive bombed by bumblebees and too many close bees for comfort (I am highly allergic). Wearing the head net feels pretty ridiculous (nothing new in Peregrina land) but it will do the trick and weighs nothing.
Now someone save me from the slithering creatures.
Buen Camino and do keep posting. Hope it gets cooler for you! Aymarah

Looks like we posted at the same time! Today was no issue with bugs or snakes…thanks for the info though!

 

[El Cascayal]

@ Peregrina 2000 & Jim ME You guys should start a thread on alternative uses for K-95s. Very impressed!

 

[Jim ME]

@ Peregrina 2000 & Jim ME You guys should start a thread on alternative uses for K-95s. Very impressed!

Ha ha… actually Peregrina2000 was a day behind me in September, so we know what to do in a pinch. I never expected flies like that. As the others are saying… it did not deter from the beauty on the San Salvador.

 

[El Cascayal]

Ha ha… actually Peregrina2000 was a day behind me in September, so we know what to do in a pinch. I never expected flies like that. As the others are saying… it did not deter from the beauty on the San Salvador.

I’m going in late September. The buzzing flies are horrible, but all this talk about the slithereens is giving me the heebie jeebies. Going to a wilderness first aid course in June. The CDC and others have updated information on bites. The big worry is if you have to go in the woods.

 

[BobY333]

I’m going in late September. The buzzing flies are horrible, but all this talk about the slithereens is giving me the heebie jeebies. Going to a wilderness first aid course in June. The CDC and others have updated information on bites. The big worry is if you have to go in the woods.

Remind me of an old joke. “You’re gonna die’”

 

[peregrina2000]

I was fortunate that the peregrina I’ve walked with was smart enough to take her shoes off and enjoy the mountain stream - done!

I remember that on my first camino, someone warned us dramatically — DO NOT take off your shoes/boots in mid-stage or your feet will swell and you will not be able to get your shoes back on. I had terrible blisters, very unhappy feet, but I did not take off my shoes during the day. I remember every time I started walking after sitting down with my shoes on I would start walking with small steps, punctuating each one with a sh** sh** sh**.

Fast forward one year, and we were disabused of that myth. Taking your shoes off and soaking your feet in water (the colder the better) works wonders. I don’t know how or why these myths persist, but I have met a fair number of peregrinos who were not willing to believe my assurances that taking off shoes and soaking feet would have wonderful results.

 

[chinacat]

I remember that on my first camino, someone warned us dramatically — DO NOT take off your shoes/boots in mid-stage or your feet will swell and you will not be able to get your shoes back on. I had terrible blisters, very unhappy feet, but I did not take off my shoes during the day. I remember every time I started walking after sitting down with my shoes on I would start walking with small steps punctuating each one with a sh** sh** sh**.

Fast forward one year, and we were disabused of that myth. Taking your shoes off and soaking your feet in water (the colder the better) works wonders. I don’t know how or why these myths persist, but I have met a fair number of peregrinos who were not willing to believe my assurances that taking off shoes and soaking feet would have wonderful results.

On any walk, anywhere, of any length, I will always remove my boots/shoes and soak my feet in any cold mountain stream which presents itself.

Cold water reduces swelling of the feet, quite apart from the wonderful feeling it imparts.

 

[BobY333]

I remember that on my first camino, someone warned us dramatically — DO NOT take off your shoes/boots in mid-stage or your feet will swell and you will not be able to get your shoes back on. I had terrible blisters, very unhappy feet, but I did not take off my shoes during the day. I remember every time I started walking after sitting down with my shoes on I would start walking with small steps punctuating each one with a sh** sh** sh**.

Fast forward one year, and we were disabused of that myth. Taking your shoes off and soaking your feet in water (the colder the better) works wonders. I don’t know how or why these myths persist, but I have met a fair number of peregrinos who were not willing to believe my assurances that taking off shoes and soaking feet would have wonderful results.

I took the opportunity to do it again today toward the end of what turned out to be a 32k day - Poladura to Bendueños. More on that later!

 

[BobY333]

There aren’t enough superlatives to describe today! The immediate climb out of Poladura led us to an incredible view that just got better. We were very lucky that we had clear weather to begin the day and enjoy the 10ish Ks to Puerto de Pajares. I won’t go into all the details, but between yesterday and today, these were the two best stages I’ve walked…by far! Yes, they’re tough, and I was sweating, but I was smiling the whole way.

We had some rain after the Puerto, and I picked up my pace a little. The downhill was tricky, but my body managed it just fine. I went through Pajares because I knew the rest of the group planned to. Despite waiting several times (and getting lost in the woods on the way there - bailed out by @caminoninja) they never caught up.

Also, beware the huge, menacing dog just as you come off the highway in Pajares. It slipped under the fence and followed me barking and growling. Not fun - especially when it went away and then decided to do it again. I just kept walking with my sticks crossed behind me. Fortunately, nothing more happened. I’ll take snakes over that dog!

About 20k in I was at Llanos de Someron at 13:45. It’s locked until 17:00, rain was forecast, and there’s nothing else in the village. What’s a then-solo peregrino to do? Take those three hours and walk more. I would say the 4k downhill on the road from Llanos was the worst of it for me today. So, I landed at Bendueños at 5pm after the awesome cold water food soak. And now I’m enjoying this unique experience. It was a tough uphill climb to get here at the end of a long day - but worth it!

I’ll see if I can post the Relive videos I’ve been putting together.

Camino del San Salvador - just do it!

 

[BobY333]

Day1 Relive video https://www.relive.cc/view/v26MXDKNZ3O

 

[BobY333]

Day 2 Relive video

Relive 'Day 2: La Robla - Poladura de Tèrcia (24k)'

View my hike: Day 2: La Robla - Poladura de Tèrcia (24k)

www.relive.cc

 

[BobY333]

Day 3 Relive video

Relive 'Day 3: Poladura - Bendueños (32k)'

View my hike: Day 3: Poladura - Bendueños (32k)

www.relive.cc

 

[LavanyaLea]

Day1 Relive video https://www.relive.cc/view/v26MXDKNZ3O

Hi Bob, been following your Camino with great interest. I’ve just sent you a friend request as your relive videos are private!

 

[BobY333]

Hi Bob, been following your Camino with great interest. I’ve just sent you a friend request as your relive videos are private!

I just made my profile public, so you should be all set! Let me know!

 

[BobY333]

One other thing to note. I have met just two native English speakers (a couple) during this entire Camino. It’s been great for my Spanish - challenging, but really enjoyable!

 

[LilleTyksak]

(the colder the better)

On any walk, anywhere, of any length, I will always remove my boots/shoes and soak my feet in any cold mountain stream which presents itself.

I agree completely… when I suffer from swollen feet it is crucial, and even put my feet up in the sink or use ice in the evening.

And if it hurts I know it is because I really need - and I believe you can prevent inflammation.

 

[BobY333]

Yesterday was another great day, but much different. After spending each day walking in the mountains and through the beautiful little villages, we walked into the outskirts of the city of Oviedo. It’s definitely a bit of a shock to the system.

We did visit the pre-Romanesque church Santa Christina de Lena (9th century), and it was amazing in its simplicity. Since we had taken our time this morning, we only needed to wait a few minutes for the kind woman with the key to let us in and give us the full “tour”. All in Spanish, of course. I understood some of it…

Then there was some “Camino magic”. One woman in the group of four peregrinos that “adopted” me is interested in opening and running an albergue in Pola de Lena. We talked the night before about how she should track down and talk to both the mayor and the person that runs the municipal albergue. Guess what…we first met and talked with the mayor on the outskirts of town where she was meeting with the two organizers of the Ragnar-style running race on the Camino from Pajares to Oviedo (70k through the mountains and into the city in 12 hours or less). We somehow wound up on the local news and got ourselves invited to the post-race party in Oviedo!

We then went into town for a bite to eat. You know who was in that cafe…yep, the woman that runs the municipal.

We got to Mieres around 6pm. We cleaned up and finished the day at a cider house where they did the traditional pour. They didn’t serve meals until 8 PM, but the next thing we knew it was 11!

A few things to be aware of:

Sandra at Bendueños warned us about the shortcut from her place. Long grass, ticks and angry dogs was all we needed to hear to be convinced to just go back to Herias.

If you’re staying at the albergue at the University - the bridge across the river that leads to it is closed, so make sure you take the earlier bridge unless you want to walk even further that day

It was just the five of us in the albergue again last night.

Relive video link:

'Day 4: Bendueños - Mieres' | Relive

View my hike: Day 4: Bendueños - Mieres

www.relive.cc

 

[peregrina2000]

The little yellow line on the video moves so quickly, I am not sure about this, but it looks to me like you did take the newly marked route to avoid the highway going into Ujo. Am I right about that? Leaving Pola de Gordón, did you go in the tunnel under the highway just before the gas station? And then up to those stairs that Ender made a week or so ago? How did you find it?

I’m asking because it wasn’t finished when I walked in September and it was very easy to get lost and go the wrong way. The improvements seem to have cleared up all the problems, but it would be great to hear how it went for you.

And ps, I don’t mean to be pedantic but the last church you show is misidentified as Pola de Lena church. It’s really the church in Ujo, Santa Eulalia. Probably no one would ever noticed, so I am sorry to mention it but couldn’t resist!

And so I’m guessing you had a walk in the park today, 19 km into Oviedo! Thus ends your Salvador! Not sure if you care about certificates and the like, but the Salvadorana is available in the Cathedral.

 

[BobY333]

Hi there! No problem at all on the correction

We did go the “alternative” route into Ujo. No problem at all. The bonus was that I got to get a Magnum bar at the gas station mini mart another few k’s on that was right on the path!

As far as the stairs go, that was easy peasy. There’s no way you could go wrong now! (And I’m not being pedantic - you take them down not up ).

I walked straight to the cathedral around 1pm and got my Salvadorana and took the tour of the Cathedral. Incredibly beautiful!

Off to see Domingo at SJdV tomorrow. I asked him, and it wasn’t clear in his response - so I need to bring my own dinner? He seemed to say I should eat in Grandas and then he’d take care of the evening smaller meal. But, if you can help on that, I’d really appreciate it!

Thanks - what an amazing Camino! And there was more Camino magic today

 

[BobY333]

Oh, and I think you can slow the yellow line down with a slider at the bottom??? I haven’t tried that yet, but for some reason I think that works.

 

[BobY333]

My Day 5 walk started at 7:30 with no coffee. I quickly changed that by stopping at the very first cafe I saw! Then of I went with some spring in my step. This last leg of the San Salvador was flatter, but certainly not flat!

I did have one dog that was aggressive but was behind a fence. I thought I was well past it, but then I heard barking gaining on me quickly. Fortunately, it was hunters with their dogs in the wagon behind their car!

I enjoyed the walk, and once into the old section of Oviedo, it was beautiful! I walked directly to the Cathedral and received my Salvadorana certificate and toured the church and its Camara Santa. Amazing! It includes the Shroud of Oviedo - the cloth that they believe was on Christ’s face after His death. Only a copy was displayed - the real one comes out for special occasions.

More Camino magic…..I left early and walked ahead of my posse. I wasn’t sure if we would see each other before getting together for dinner. I dillydallied around my room for a bit and finally got myself out the door. I walked toward the cathedral, and who should I run into 50 yards before they entered the Cathedral Square? Yes, that is the Camino!

Thank you to either @OzAnnie or @Anniesantiago (Sorry - I forget which!!!) who prompted me to walk the San Salvador before the Primitivo. Wowowowow - it was just awesome!

Off to the Primitivo!

'Day 5: Mieres - Oviedo (✅ Camino San Salvador!)' | Relive

View my hike: Day 5: Mieres - Oviedo (✅ Camino San Salvador!)

www.relive.cc

 

[rojasa]

Bob, many many thanks for your posts and videos. I’m planning to walk in October. These were so helpful—and I love your Camino spirit! Am also turning west at Oviedo so have followed your posts on the Primitivo with great interest. Gracias por todo!

 

[BobY333]

Bob, many many thanks for your posts and videos. I’m planning to walk in October. These were so helpful—and I love your Camino spirit! Am also turning west at Oviedo so have followed your posts on the Primitivo with great interest. Gracias por todo!

Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed them. I loved both of these Caminos!

 

[MichaelC]

Fast forward one year, and we were disabused of that myth. Taking your shoes off and soaking your feet in water (the colder the better) works wonders. I don’t know how or why these myths persist, but I have met a fair number of peregrinos who were not willing to believe my assurances that taking off shoes and soaking feet would have wonderful results.

Those myths can be deadly! I remember helping one walker who was crying because she was in so much pain, and who was absolutely convinced that one should never sit down on a hike because then you wouldn't be able to get back up again.. We could not convince her that an hour's rest would actually help her heal and refresh.

 

[peregrina2000]

Also, beware the huge, menacing dog just as you come off the highway in Pajares. It slipped under the fence and followed me barking and growling. Not fun - especially when it went away and then decided to do it again.

Just wondering if Ender knows about this dog, or if you think that the owner has been notified. It sounds like it might have been a one-off. I’ve walked this route four times and have been lucky enough never to see this dog, as it would have freaked me out. I’m sure Ender would contact the owner to check it out, especially since you note that it was behind a fence.

Can you give any more info on the details about location, type of dog, etc, so I can pass this along to Ender?

 

[BobY333]

Sure thing - walk through Pajares and onto the highway for that 100 yard stretch. Make the left onto the tractor path and on the right is a farmers field. The dog was in there behind a fence until it charged across the field, crawled under it and came after me. I was alone - and I know if others that walked as a group the same way on the same day without incident.