Beware of the Fisterra Muxia route...

[VikingQueen]

Ok... Time to moan...

Having kept a positive head for as long as possible I feel I have to mention the disappointment of the so called 'Coast of Death' route between Fisterra and Muxia...

Towards the end of this tedious walk where no sea is ever seen, there is a deliberate wrong sign taking you off the footpath towards Muxia by road. The authorities claim that Pilgrims are making a mistake to follow this route... Well you can decide, but it is thirty km of disappointment to me... The better idea is perhaps to split the walk into two sections and stop in Lires and follow the coast path, if possible. This way you avoid endless Bar less villages and yapping, angry dogs.

Sorry to be negative, but it needs to be said sometimes. Buen Camino from Muxia and the end.

 

[stevenjarvis]

I'm so sorry to read this, I haven't done the route myself but it's on my list. I hope Muxia was welcome respite. Best wishes for your onward journey.

 

[LTfit]

My experience was quite the opposite! I found the walk from Muxía to Finisterre absolutely lovely. I walked it this August and would recommend it without a doubt. When you get to Lires village take the detour to Lires beach (ask if you don't see the sign) which then takes you back to the trail to Finisterre (or visa versa). Do not miss this, the beach is a beautiful site.

I was surprised that the two of us were the only ones making the detour. We spoke to the owners of the one and only bar at Lires beach and they said that very few pilgrims stop there. It adds 3 km to the already 30 km stage. Maybe that's the reason.

 

[colinPeter]

Do not miss this, the beach is a beautiful site.... We spoke to the owners of the one and only bar at Lires beach

Yes, Praia de Lires is a beautiful location. Having lunch (and/or a beer) on the lawn of the bar on a nice day is just brilliant.
Yes, not much in the way of bars (no café con leche every couple of hours), but I still enjoyed it. I enjoyed Muxia and preferred it as a finishing point when compared to Fisterra (more reflective for me).
However, I can understand people not finding the sections overly inspiring.
But still glad to have done it.
Buen Camino
Colin

 

[wayfarer]

My experience was quite the opposite! I found the walk from Muxía to Finisterre absolutely lovely. I walked it this August and would recommend it without a doubt. When you get to Lires village take the detour to Lires beach (ask if you don't see the sign) which then takes you back to the trail to Finisterre (or visa versa). Do not miss this, the beach is a beautiful site.
I was surprised that the two of us were the only ones making the detour. We spoke to the owners of the one and only bar at Lires beach and they said that very few pilgrims stop there. It adds 3 km to the already 30 km stage. Maybe that's the reason.

We walked from Finisterra to Muxia last year and I loved it, we were to stay in Lires but after a few cafe con leches and bocadillos we decided to press on to Muxia, a lovely walk through forrest and an opertunity to visit the beach just before the road section into Muxia. I alo preferred Muxia as a finishing point to Finisterra, less comercialised and definately more a sence of peace.

 

[VikingQueen]

My experience was quite the opposite! I found the walk from Muxía to Finisterre absolutely lovely. I walked it this August and would recommend it without a doubt. When you get to Lires village take the detour to Lires beach (ask if you don't see the sign) which then takes you back to the trail to Finisterre (or visa versa). Do not miss this, the beach is a beautiful site.

I was surprised that the two of us were the only ones making the detour. We spoke to the owners of the one and only bar at Lires beach and they said that very few pilgrims stop there. It adds 3 km to the already 30 km stage. Maybe that's the reason.

My mistake... I would definitely have done this if I could have found it.

 

[stevenjarvis]

LTfit , thank you for that.

My mistake... I would definitely have done this if I could have found it.

Where exactly is the sign that sent you on the wrong road so to speak , I 'd like to make a note of it !

 

[Deleted member 3000]

I agree that the scenery was not remarkable between Muxia and Fisterra, but it is a very pleasant walk. The best part of walking is the variability of the view. You can have spectacular mountains in Asturias and the Pyrenees, the open meseta, path that seems to tunnel through the trees, actual tunnels, bridges across reservoirs, river edges and beds, coastal views, and a lot more. There is a payoff in not requiring that a route have a particular view -- the surprise in what you do find!

 

[LarryBC]

We enjoyed the walk from Finnesterre to Muxia. It's not a seaside walk, but it was the final segment of our Camino and our final day of experiencing the simple sights and sounds of the Camino that we’d come to enjoy so much: the beautiful farmlands, the villages and the forests, witnessing up close the locals at work or relaxing, experiencing the peace and quiet, with the occasional rooster crowing or dog barking. It was a little sad to realize this was our last chance to enjoy these simple pleasures, so we savoured every moment -- except when we lost our way twice!

The other unique aspect of this segment is that you encounter many pilgrims along the way who are walking towards you (those starting from Mux heading to Fin), so you get a chance to swap information about what lies ahead.

The walk was on the long side, and after weeks of walking, and we were extremely happy to get to Muxia: beautiful little town, fantastic seaside location and perfect place to end our Camino.

Buen Camino!

Larry

 

[LTfit]

It's not a seaside walk, but it was the final segment of our Camino and our final day of experiencing the simple sights and sounds of the Camino that we’d come to enjoy so much

Exactly. The day was entirely too short as far as I was concerned. But that is how I feel after every Camino. Maybe that's why I need to go back each year!

 

[Tincatinker]

The Beloved and I walked from Muxia to Fisterra, breaking at Lires to enjoy the estuary and lovely beach. I remember Brierley's guide as being very clear on a couple of diversions, including the one via Praia de Lires. There is a glimpse of another beach, somewhere between Muxia and Lires that looked piney and attractive but at that time we were pressing to get on as we had intended to walk to Fisterra in one day. Lires stopped us in our tracks.

 

[jirit]

I walked this route Muxia to Finisterre after arriving in Santiago back in 2011. I do agree you will not see much of the beach along the way, and there is one spot whereby the marking were a bit misleading.

However I loved the walk - maybe so because I found it generally less busy and more scenic than the direct route into Finisterre.

 

[peaco]

I walked this route Muxia to Finisterre after arriving in Santiago back in 2011. I do agree you will not see much of the beach along the way, and there is one spot whereby the marking were a bit misleading.

However I loved the walk - maybe so because I found it generally less busy and more scenic than the direct route into Finisterre.

Is it true ? that the locals do not like walker's in there neighbourhood's, and enjoy destroying the signs....Having walked this route back in 2009 and found it difficult finding my way then. Non existing markings, in the places where they are needed. the Hospititero in Finistere 12th sept 2013 assured me that this had been rectified. what a lie this was, i got lost, was given the wrong directions by locals.and car drivers.The long and short of it was, that i started out at 0700 and arrived half dead in Muxia at 18.15. its a scandal that anyone should have to walk this perilous route without proper waymarking's. why is it so badly waymarked. ?? However it was my long last walking camino day, for this year. And i recuperated at Muxia. But i will not be walking to Muxia again from Finistere. Amen.

 

[Priscillian]

Very sorry to hear this but I think perhaps some of the disappointment you mention may be due to your own expactations. Just because the route goes northward ffrom Fisterra to Muxia does not promise the sea, but what it does give is an unparalled insight into the beaty and mystery or what us us Galicia. Some peopke are disapointed with Fisterra but find he end of the Camino in Muxia. I admit to being biased, but I think much of this depends on your age and degree of expectation: party and partition, or perfect peace. If you want the coast, leave the Camino and follow the newly created Camino del Camino do Morte (dark green arrows). Either way, in my (by now rather extensive experience) the Camino between F and M is absolutely not to be missed (or VV).
BTW I think that the detour you mention may have taken you towards Moraime which is worth the walk in itself. Other than that I can´t think where you might have been. Truly, if bars are what you seek, this might not have been for you. Sorry you didn´t enjoy it, but many others will remember this as their best day's walk (or two).

 

[wayfarer]

Is there any info available on this new route to Muxia?

 

[LTfit]

Is it true ? that the locals do not like walker's in there neighbourhood's, and enjoy destroying the signs....Having walked this route back in 2009 and found it difficult finding my way then. Non existing markings, in the places where they are needed. the Hospititero in Finistere 12th sept 2013 assured me that this had been rectified. what a lie this was, i got lost, was given the wrong directions by locals.and car drivers.The long and short of it was, that i started out at 0700 and arrived half dead in Muxia at 18.15. its a scandal that anyone should have to walk this perilous route without proper waymarking's. why is it so badly waymarked. ?? However it was my long last walking camino day, for this year. And i recuperated at Muxia. But i will not be walking to Muxia again from Finistere. Amen.

It is unfortunate that this happened to you Peaco as we found the waymarking without a problem. And when we weren't 100% sure about the turn-off to Lires beach 2 locals were quite friendly and sent us on our way.

 

[Rebekah Scott]

A pilgrim who´s walked the entire camino, and the bit at the very end does not meet her expectations. How heartbreaking.

 

[Thomas1962]

I do not share the disappointment frome Vikingqueen about the route Finisterra-Muxia, but for some reason it was one of the harders part of the camino for me, even when I stayed overnight in Lires.
Usually I can walk 30 or more km's without problemm but I was exhausted when I did arrive in Muxia.
I've been thinking why it was for me. Maybe because it is REALLY the last part of the camino to do, maybe because there are not a lot of bars on this way, maybe because it is along the coast, That day I've seen a few people arriving in Muxia who did have a really hard time.
Don't know if other people experienced the same, maybe it is just one of these stretches which has this 'funny' effect to many people.

 

[karenfromcali]

So i had planned to walk on from Santiago to Finisterre and Muxia as well, but is it worth going to Finisterre? Or should I just press on to Muxia instead? Or still do both? Looking for a peaceful, reflective ending to my camino. Thoughts?

 

[wayfarer]

So i had planned to walk on from Santiago to Finisterre and Muxia as well, but is it worth going to Finisterre? Or should I just press on to Muxia instead? Or still do both? Looking for a peaceful, reflective ending to my camino. Thoughts?

Walking to Finisterra and then on to Muxia worked best for me, I was really glad to finish in Muxia as Finisterra is very touristy, Muxia is peaceful.
But it is well worth the walk IMO and a great way to finish.

 

[karenfromcali]

Walking to Finisterra and then on to Muxia worked best for me, I was really glad to finish in Muxia as Finisterra is very touristy, Muxia is peaceful.
But it is well worth the walk IMO and a great way to finish.

Looking for peaceful so I think this will be the best plan. Thanks for the reply wayfarer

 

[Deleted member 30687]

I walked both Muxia and Finisterre and I went to Muxia first. I would recommend Muxia first. There is only one bus a day from Muxia back to Santiago. There are 2 or 3 buses a day from Finisterre back to Santiago. I had no problems with dogs.

 

[Rosemaryk1]

Is it possible to catch a bus from Muxia to Finisterre, then have more options back to SDC?

 

[Deleted member 30687]

There is a great to stay if you want to walk from Muxia to Fisterra at Lires, As Eiras Pension. Great private rooms and Wonderful showers and great meals downstairs. Treat yourself!

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Is it possible to catch a bus from Muxia to Finisterre, then have more options back to SDC?

There is a bus daily to Cee. From there you can connect to Fisterra or Santiago. An older schedule for Fisterra to Muxia; check with Monbus for the reverse route and changes.

 

[Thornley]

When in Muxia ask about the accommodation in Lires,
They own both,
Would finish at Muxia , its beautiful and stay in luxury @ Bar Lorena.

 

[Deleted member 12253]

Ok... Time to moan...

Having kept a positive head for as long as possible I feel I have to mention the disappointment of the so called 'Coast of Death' route between Fisterra and Muxia...

Towards the end of this tedious walk where no sea is ever seen, there is a deliberate wrong sign taking you off the footpath towards Muxia by road. The authorities claim that Pilgrims are making a mistake to follow this route... Well you can decide, but it is thirty km of disappointment to me... The better idea is perhaps to split the walk into two sections and stop in Lires and follow the coast path, if possible. This way you avoid endless Bar less villages and yapping, angry dogs.

Sorry to be negative, but it needs to be said sometimes. Buen Camino from Muxia and the end.

Loved the walk finnestere to muxia, done it on a Sunday morning, no cafe or shop open but it's only 30 km and after walking from sjpdep I could walk 40. Very few pilgrims. Worth the effort and muxia , you end up where ' The Way' finishes. Walked back to finnestere next day.

 

[BeatriceKarjalainen]

I really enjoyed Fisterra to Muxía. There was a part of road walking in the end that I thought should go over some hills and next to a beach but for some reason you could not go there. There were signs telling us to walk on the road after Xurarantes instead :-/

 

[shefollowsshells]

I have no idea what route I walked to Muxia, I was by myself and it poured, thundered and was cold...
I walked thru a place where birds gathered and I know it was in or near Lires I took a wrong turn. A man turned around with his mother in the car, he actually owned a hotel in Lires...he turned around and told me I was WAY off going the wrong direction. He actually took me back to where I made my mistake and I went from there.
I saw the Ocean much of the way far below a cliff where I thought if I fell in no one would ever find me.
I also got lost in some woods with VERY red clay and no one to ask where to go. It was a hard day but the greeting at Bella Muxia was so wonderful!
I posted before about getting lost and ending up between two houses with barking dogs.
It is all a blurr to me today...
I did wish to find a heart shaped rock, and found a large one of a good five pounds to bring home

 

[Thornley]

Hi Beachcomber,
You got there and it is wonderful @ Bella Muxia.
We stayed there 2 nights and then upgraded to Bar Lorena for 2 nights also.
We were told the guy and mother who own the hotel/casa rural in Lires is the same family of the newish hotel next to Bella Muxia .

The church service with the locals in Muxia is something special.
They even pulled the plate / collection bowl away from us and gave a welcome smile.....lovely people.

 

[John Holland]

I found that walk between Finisterre and Muxia (done with one other pilgrim) to be one of the most enjoyable days I had. Sure, you did not see a lot of the sea - more glimpses than spectacular views until just near the end - but the countryside was gorgeous. We certainly had no trouble following the signs. A great day.

 

[Rambler]

We are looking at our schedule right now and I am trying to determine if we can walk this part if we have just two days/one night to do it. We would leave SdC on the earliest bus, walk Finisterre Muxia or visa versa spend the night, and then take bus back.
We had been planning to just rent a car and drive to them both for the day. Is it possible to walk this all in one day from bus stop to bus stop and still get into Santiago at a reasonable hour?
Is it best to go Muxia Finisterre or the other way? Maybe stay the night in Lires? Last Camino, the sunset at the lighthouse was a true memory, but is it equal in Muxia or Lires?
Any suggestions are welcome.
Rambler

 

[wayfarer]

If you have only two days one night I would suggest getting the bus to Finisterra and walking to Muxia, this can be done easily in one day and you could spend the night in Muxia the get the afternoon bus back to Santiago.
Buen Camino.

 

[Rambler]

It doesn't really matter now. I called and cannot change my hotel reservations for Santiago, so we will just rent a car and drive to them both for the day and head back after the sun sets.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I was told by a person that they had painted yellow arrows to Muxia.
This person was told by the authorities to please take them off.
Perhaps one was missed?

 

[Deleted member 32363]

Well, I'm extending my flight for 8 days, to walk to Finnesterre, and Muxia. `and enjoy the lands end. Have some R & R and Grace, before flying back to S. India. I trust the path will be exactly as it should be.

 

[mspath]

.... I trust the path will be exactly as it should be.

kalavati,

May it be so.

"....
And all shall be well and
All manner of things shall be well
By the purification of the motive
In the ground of our beseeching."
Little Gidding, T.S.Eliot after Julian of Norwich

Buen Camino,

Margaret Meredith

 

[Thornley]

Should be more people like you Kalavati,
It is really the only way to finish .............[they will get stuck into me on that...just watch]
When we walk into Santiago now we just keep going and return later for the 3 days rest before home or other parts of europe.
Buen Camino and don't hurry this short way , its very special and unfortunately in a way getting very popular .....this has become an extension to those commencing at Serria

 

[AlexandraM]

If you have only two days one night I would suggest getting the bus to Finisterra and walking to Muxia, this can be done easily in one day and you could spend the night in Muxia the get the afternoon bus back to Santiago.
Buen Camino.

My mom (70) would like to take bus to Finisterra and stay one night than continue on foot to Muxia. Do you know where I can check bus schedules from Santiago to Finisterra? Thank you.

 

[wayfarer]

You can get it here
http://www.compostelavirtual.com/transportes/horarios-autobus-santiago-muros-cee-fisterra.html
Use chrome to get google translate.

 

[mspath]

My mom (70) would like to take bus to Finisterra and stay one night than continue on foot to Muxia. Do you know where I can check bus schedules from Santiago to Finisterra? Thank you.

AlexandraM,

Has your mom done other hiking? Would this be her first walk? Will you be with her ?
In NO sense would I describe the walk from Finisterra to Muxia to be 'easy'.
It is 30 k without many locations along that way to get water, food or assistance. I suggest you both review and understand exactly what is involved.

Margaret Meredith

 

[dougfitz]

It is 30 k without many locations along that way to get water, food or assistance. I suggest you both review and understand exactly what is involved.

This overlooks Lires, which is on the path and provides several places where one can eat.
I did this leg from Muxia, and Lires was just over half way and a very welcome sight for both the woman I was walking with and me.

We had one of those wonderful camino experiences later in the day near San Salvador. When passing Hotel Dugium, the manager offered to let us rest in the hotel garden (there were no benches along the road at this point). We gratefully accepted, and even more surprised when we were offered coffee/tea while we were resting. It was an unexpected joy to sit looking at a beautifully manicured garden with coffee, but also to know that there was such generosity and support for pilgrims.

Regards,

 

[AlexandraM]

AlexandraM,

Has your mom done other hiking? Would this be her first walk? Will you be with her ?
In NO sense would I describe the walk from Finisterra to Muxia to be 'easy'.
It is 30 k without many locations along that way to get water, food or assistance. I suggest you both review and understand exactly what is involved.

Margaret Meredith

Margaret - thank you so much for the suggestion. This is our first Camino so I am trying to get as much info as possible before we leave. Yes, my mom is in excellenet shape and hikes often and walkes daily and I will be with her the entire time - we are starting from Sarria to Santiago. We might walk to Finsterra or bus it and then take few days rest and then continue to Muxia - but we might opt for bussing it there as well. Again - big thanks.

 

[dougfitz]

Margaret - thank you so much for the suggestion. This is our first Camino so I am trying to get as much info as possible before we leave. Yes, my mom is in excellenet shape and hikes often and walkes daily and I will be with her the entire time - we are starting from Sarria to Santiago. We might walk to Finsterra or bus it and then take few days rest and then continue to Muxia - but we might opt for bussing it there as well. Again - big thanks.

My experience is that one of the hardest things to do is start again after a longer break. Taking a single rest day is okay, but more than that and I find it difficult to muster the enthusiasm to get out again.

I agree with @mspath - it was one of the hardest days of this years walking for me. Not only is it a long day with no options other than to break it in two around Lires, there was about 700m of ascent overall, based on my GPS track. Using conventional (ie not Brierley) methods of calculating height adjusted distance, this made it equivalent to walking about 36 km.

 

[AlexandraM]

My experience is that one of the hardest things to do is start again after a longer break. Taking a single rest day is okay, but more than that and I find it difficult to muster the enthusiasm to get out again.

I agree with @mspath - it was one of the hardest days of this years walking for me. Not only is it a long day with no options other than to break it in two around Lires, there was about 700m of ascent overall, based on my GPS track. Using conventional (ie not Brierley) methods of calculating height adjusted distance, this made it equivalent to walking about 36 km.

My experience is that one of the hardest things to do is start again after a longer break. Taking a single rest day is okay, but more than that and I find it difficult to muster the enthusiasm to get out again.

I agree with @mspath - it was one of the hardest days of this years walking for me. Not only is it a long day with no options other than to break it in two around Lires, there was about 700m of ascent overall, based on my GPS track. Using conventional (ie not Brierley) methods of calculating height adjusted distance, this made it equivalent to walking about 36 km.

Doug - thank you. I think we will, at this point, focus on getting to Santiago from Sarria - our plan is to walk there in 5 days but since it is our first Camini, it might takes us longer. Then we can decide if we want to walk more. In any case - we are super excited. Thank you for your feedback.

 

[Bogong]

Ok... Time to moan...

Having kept a positive head for as long as possible I feel I have to mention the disappointment of the so called 'Coast of Death' route between Fisterra and Muxia...

Towards the end of this tedious walk where no sea is ever seen, there is a deliberate wrong sign taking you off the footpath towards Muxia by road. The authorities claim that Pilgrims are making a mistake to follow this route... Well you can decide, but it is thirty km of disappointment to me... The better idea is perhaps to split the walk into two sections and stop in Lires and follow the coast path, if possible. This way you avoid endless Bar less villages and yapping, angry dogs.

Sorry to be negative, but it needs to be said sometimes. Buen Camino from Muxia and the end.

Well, I walked this bit on 31 March this year (2014) and it was one of the loveliest days of my walk from St Jn P de P. Despite hail and rain (par for the course except for a few fine days and when it snowed or sleeted) it was through gorgeous forest and open countryside. I left Fisterre at 7am and arrived in Muxia at 1pm that afternoon, and didn't see another pilgrim going either direction all day. Mostly the signposting was good, and on the few occasions (except one) where it wasn't the locals were extremely courteous and helpful, but I had made a real effort to learn some Spanish before I left and virtually spoke no English at all the whole Camino. I did take a wrong turn at a cross roads after Lires, but continued on down the road as I was fairly certain it would sort itself out (which it did, with help from another friendly local).

By way of a warning about Fisterre. I had the best and worst experiences there. Avoid the albergue Al Casa Del Fonte, it was dreadful, and I actually walked out. I had walked from Logoso (wonderful albergue, treated me like one of the family) to Fisterre the previous day arriving 1pm and the municipal was closed. The weather had been vile and I was soaked through. A youngish lady asked me if I wanted somewhere to stay and took me up to said albergue which was up the hill around 300 metres from the municipal. I went in, asked whether they had a washing machine and dryer and was told "yes" so I signed in. There were two dormitories, an upper and lower, separated by and open and poorly drained path. I went to the upper. It turned out that their idea of a washing machine was the concrete tub in the rain and the dryer the semi exposed clothes line. I did my washing, went downtown, had a feed and got my certificate at the Municipal, then returned to the albergue about half past three. Everything was closed and locked except the dormitories and there was no sign of life. I had a sleep for a couple of hours and waited, but at 7.30pm still no sign of life, and my clothes were a lot wetter than when I had washed them. I also slipped, fell and hurt my foot on the wet path. So I left a cryptic note in the sign in book and walked out.

I retraced my steps back to the Albergue Cabo da Vila, and what a difference! The best of my entire trip. Treated me like family, dried my washing, proper linen sheets and towel, invited me (and the other guests)to the family meal that night, provided breakfast the next morning (all at no extra cost) and the mum gave me a hug and kiss when I left (important for a 69 year old man). Wonderful, delightful people.

John (aka Bogong)