Hi Gemini, i stayed in lisbon for 5 nights around my birthday in march, and i adore the city and the whole feel you get there. One suggestion is that if you do go to Sintra, then also go to Caba de Roca as well, it is the most westerly point of mainland Europe. We got the train to Cascais, then the bus to Caba de Roca and afterwards hitched to Sintra, there is a bus service, we just didnt want to wait an hour. You can get down to the 'beach' there, but the descent may take you out of your comfort zone, it did me..
On the credencials we get in Spain they have Sintra as one of the alternative routes out of Lisbon before it rejoins it at Coimbra, this is more historical than actual. But i did notice a hiking route going past Caba de Roca, so who knows in the future if it will open up.
I stayed at the Pensao given in Brierleys guide 'Pensaso S. Joao da Praca' it was clean and not too expensive, the man on the evening service(5pm to 11pm) Jose Carrera speaks perfect English - learnt from American Sailors after the 2nd world war, after hanging out with them as kid and selling goods on the blackmarket for them, he is one of lifes amazing people.
Tel; 21 8862591/ 218860415 E-Mail;
218862591@sapo.pt or
jose.carrera@kanguru.pt
The hotel is right next to the Cathedral and is on the camino in the Alfama district. I would love standing on the balcony and smelling the fragrance of orange blossoms wafting down from some trees up the road.
You are also in the heart of the Fado district and it was my Polish companion who got me into this, but to me now it is very special music and the longing in it touches a chord. Just be aware that if you do see some music, and there are plenty of Fado clubs, it can be a very expensive night.
Mike