The Brierley book gives the impression that one would be walking mostly on sand on the optional beach route from Matosinhos to Vila do Conde. That could be a difficult slog for 22 k.
You can walk about 2/3 -- the first 2/3 -- of it without any sand walking. Much is boardwalk, some of it quite new, some put in recently to protect the delicate growth of narrow dunes. Fairly comfortable walking, just don't get your trekking pole caught between the boards. Some of the first 2/3 is on sidewalks or cobbled streets.
But at Vila Cha any beachfront walkway disappears. I tried to find one, wanting to avoid slogging through sand, but no luck. Eventually I got nearly stuck in a bunch of nested cul-de-sacs in an area of vacation homes with seemingly nobody around to ask directions of. After going quite a few km out of my way I ended up in Mindelo, a good bit away from the beach. Pretty tired after going around in circles, I found my way to a Metro stop and took the Metro the rest of the way into Vila do Conde (not very far).
Vila do Conde is a pleasant stop. I've got a nice room -- with private bath -- in "O Manco Da Areia" (listed in Brierley) for 25 E/night. Got here fairly late on a Friday but had no trouble getting a room.
If anyone is fortunate enough to be here on a Saturday afternoon there is very non-touristy Fado at Adega do Tijolo (take the steps marked as Rua do Tijolo toward the north end of Rua Nossa Senhora de Fatima). The Fado Vadio ("Vagabond Fado") is from about 4 to 7 Saturday afternoons. The "minimum" is just 3 Euros. I spent all of 5 Euros for soup, water and coffee, and listened to several hours of various fadistas -- and was the only foreign tourist in the tiny place.
Bom Caminho
Kit
kstaylor@centurytel.net
You can walk about 2/3 -- the first 2/3 -- of it without any sand walking. Much is boardwalk, some of it quite new, some put in recently to protect the delicate growth of narrow dunes. Fairly comfortable walking, just don't get your trekking pole caught between the boards. Some of the first 2/3 is on sidewalks or cobbled streets.
But at Vila Cha any beachfront walkway disappears. I tried to find one, wanting to avoid slogging through sand, but no luck. Eventually I got nearly stuck in a bunch of nested cul-de-sacs in an area of vacation homes with seemingly nobody around to ask directions of. After going quite a few km out of my way I ended up in Mindelo, a good bit away from the beach. Pretty tired after going around in circles, I found my way to a Metro stop and took the Metro the rest of the way into Vila do Conde (not very far).
Vila do Conde is a pleasant stop. I've got a nice room -- with private bath -- in "O Manco Da Areia" (listed in Brierley) for 25 E/night. Got here fairly late on a Friday but had no trouble getting a room.
If anyone is fortunate enough to be here on a Saturday afternoon there is very non-touristy Fado at Adega do Tijolo (take the steps marked as Rua do Tijolo toward the north end of Rua Nossa Senhora de Fatima). The Fado Vadio ("Vagabond Fado") is from about 4 to 7 Saturday afternoons. The "minimum" is just 3 Euros. I spent all of 5 Euros for soup, water and coffee, and listened to several hours of various fadistas -- and was the only foreign tourist in the tiny place.
Bom Caminho
Kit
kstaylor@centurytel.net
hi k, we are planning to walk from Porto to Valenca, and i am wondering about the coastal route also, did you do it ? if so would appreciate information on type of route it is, sand, gravel or road, plus is there accommodation - we were hoping to use cheap pensione / hotels. Ann
