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Average hours of typical cafe/restaurant?

psychoticparrot

psychoticparrot
Time of past OR future Camino
April, May (2017)
My husband and I are 65-year-old Americans and eat our 3 daily meals at the usual American times -- around 7am for breakfast (usually eggs/toast/fruit/coffee); around 1pm for lunch (soup/salads/sandwiches); and around 6pm for dinner (our biggest meal).

How do the meals vary in Spain in both content and frequency in cafes or restaurants? I've gleaned a bit of info from several threads. It seems the cafes don't open for breakfast until 9am (at the earliest) and then generally serve only cafe con leche w/bread or pastry, so it's best to purchase something the day before to hold you over until they open. I also saw somewhere that cafes close for siesta in the afternoon, so no food until they open at 6pm (at the earliest). Is this correct?

We know we'll have to alter our eating hours and habits on the road, but by how much? When are the best times to stop to have meals? We don't plan on staying in public albergues, so we won't be doing the communal meal thing. We'll be depending on cafes and restaurants to feed us.
 
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Bars are more common than "cafes." They open to accommodate the early crowd, which is mostly Spaniards. Cooks may not show up early, so expect coffee, toast, juice, croissants. Eggs over easy and bacon will have to wait until the cook shows up in most places.

Restaurants that cater to pilgrims start serving supper at 1900. The ones that cater to the Spanish open at 2100. At 1800 you will find sandwiches in bars (or tapas). When restaurants close after lunch at about 1400, they do not serve food again until 1900 or 2100.
 
On my next Camino I'm going to make a concerted effort to have my main meal earlier in the day, before siesta.....their siesta, not mine. I seem to recall too many times scrounging around for something to eat at my regular dinner time, that being around 6:00 - 6:30. I recall once pleading with the proprietor of a restaurant to serve us dinner early, at 7:30. He did accommodate us, but it was a rather lonely dinner as we were the only ones in the restaurant. The Spanish restaurant dinner hours just don't work for me. If the albergue served dinner, it was usually 7:00 - 7:30, I think. Since I never had bacon and eggs, waiting for the cook to arrive in the morning was never a problem for me; I just had two or three desayunos of café con leches y tostadas spread throughout the morning.

The safest thing is to always have a stash of eats in your pack - dried fruit, nuts, etc. and of course, chocolate. Buen Camino :)
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hi psychoticparrot,
You will undoubtedly find a routine that works best for you, but the one I've fallen into is to have a coffee/yoghurt/fruit for breakfast, maybe a croissant if I see one that looks really good. :D Light snacks while walking-- nuts and raisins, fruit, yoghurt. I usually eat my main meal after I'm done walking, washing clothes, and showering. Since most restaurants in Spain have their kitchen open for lunch till 4, I am usually able to eat my main meal at a time that means all I need for dinner is a few tapas, or a snack in the albergue, etc. I have always found that meals served in "regular" Spanish eating hours are light years better than the food you will find prepared for you at 7 pm when no Spaniard would ever consider eating a meal of any kind. You will find lots of places on the Camino Frances (but not on too many other Caminos) where someone will make you a meal at 7 pm, but they are cooking for people they know will never return and who have no real voice to complain. I'm not saying that they intentionally give you bad food, but they are not, shall we say, cooking for "the locals" at 7 pm.

And one last comment -- the menu del dia is universally better than any menu del Peregrino. (The word menu in Spanish, in case you don't know, doesn't mean menu in English, it means meal. If you want to see the menu, ask for the carta). Every Spanish restaurant serves a menu del dia, a leftover from the Franco era, which is a 3 course meal at a fixed price. Many of these are very good quality. The menu del Peregrino is a copycat of that.
 
@psychoticparrot the Spanish eating habits are quite different and I now drop myself into their way of life to really enjoy my caminos in Spain. So, that means - making do with a bit of fruit or a yoghurt first thing, then a cafe con leche at about 9am with a croissant, then a "second breakfast" at about 11am (with a slice of tortilla - spanish omelette made with potato and eggs), then I stop walking about about 2pm and head out for my main meal, along with the locals, in a restaurant, and have the "menu del dia" (not the "pilgrim menu"). To do this means I don't do my washing and other chores until after I eat. At night I just make myself a light salad or maybe have a few tapas in a bar.

Sometimes it does not work out, maybe I start too late and don't finish in time for lunch, sometimes I want to join in an albergue meal. But generally I aim to eat my main meal in the middle of the day. The side benefit for me is that I am not trying to sleep on a heavy meal; it is very much better for my digestion!

I find that if I try to stick to eating the way I do at home I am doomed to disappointment and miss one of the great pleasures of the camino - good local food. Many people complain about the food on the camino, but they don't sample the wide variety prepared for the locals, only the cheap pilgrim stuff served up very early in the evening to accommodate the walkers ("pilgrim menu").
 
The closer you get to Santiago, the earlier the bars tend to open depending on which route you are on. I did the VDLP and outside the major cities you don't expect to find anything open before 9-10 am at the earliest. Anything that opens at 7 am is a bonus. So part of the daily tasks on arrival in a new town was sorting out food requirements for the next day. Some albergues have vending machines with food which are great if you are leaving at daybreak. Even a hot drink vending machine is a godsend. Be super organised on weekends. Saturdays - shops tend to shut by 1300-1400h and don't reopen in the evening. So make sure you have something extra available on Friday night just in case. Sunday - assume most things are shut to be on the safe side. There is usually a shop open somewhere - I got good at spotting middle aged women with shopping bags when hunting out the local supermarket - but it can be a bit hard to find some days.
To maintain your weight you may need to double your calories. I normally eat every 3 hours-ish. So breakfast at 6 am, second breakfast/morning tea ~ 9 am (just like a hobbit!), lunch 11am-1300h, arrive in next town usually 1400-1500h and first stop was a bar to get a cafe con leche/non-alcoholic beer/cold drink + tapas, organise accommodation/wash clothes/quick nap, and off to the shops at 6 if nothing is open earlier. Usually had dinner around 8-9 pm. HAve been known to have dinner at 1130pm but don't be surprised if the kitchen is closed and there are limited options.
 
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When you hear the word "bar" please do not imagine a tavern or dance club. Bars in the villages you will walk through are small inexpesive cafes that serve some sort of cold breakfast in the am, sandwiches at noon and the evening. For breakfast they may offer croissants, toast, amd if yoi are lucky tortilla de patatas. Many have an expensive juice press for freshly squeezed oj, and all have heavy duty espresso manchines. And they will open at 7 or 8, if 8 just walk to the next village from the albergue and have breakfast there, assuming you are walking one one of the more heavily tranvelled routes.

Lunch in bars will be ensalda mixta (think cob salad woth tuna rather than blue cheese) and sandwhiches. Those are made onlarge baguette shapped not so great white bread and no condiments. Ham & Cheese ks just that: ham & cheese.

Now, lunch, eaten in restaurants, eaten from 2-4 pm or so is the way to go! Not as common on the Frances Camino villages though. It's a proper 3 course meal, with wine or bottled water. The best opportunity to sample proper Spanish food. Get to the albergue at 2pm, wash your clothes quickly and hang them to dry and head out for a super meal. Then nap!

Dinner for pilgrims will eather be another sandwich, especially in proper non pilgrim restaurants in small towns, or the oh so repetitive pilgrim menu: pork or chicken a la plancha, with french fries, or some sort or pasta or rice dish. It's a three course meal, with the appetiser often being a smaller portion of the dishes they offer as a main course. It will cost you 8-12€, as will the menu del dia.

You can also cook for yourself but will end up paying just as much as if you are eating out unless you are willing to carry dry left overs with you; pasta, beans, rice. This being said, there are some lovely frozen lasagnas at some grocery stores for 2€ or so, and even some minute slices of pork.

Buen provecho.
 
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Thanks, all. This gives me a much better idea of how bars/cafes/restaurants operate in Spain. I have to be very careful with my diet. I had bariatric surgery February 2015 and have lost 115 pounds so far (52kg) with another 40 (18kg) to lose before next year. This surgery is what is making the Camino possible for me, not to mention saving my life.

However, the surgery did change my nutrition requirements. I can only eat a few ounces of food at each meal and I must have a few ounces of protein for at least two of my three meals -- meats, chicken, fish, or eggs. That's another reason I need to know when and what kind typical Spanish fare is served. It would be very easy for me to become malnourished on the Camino unless I become very savvy about Spanish cuisine.

Since I won't be staying in public alburgues, I won't be cooking my own food. So, how do I manage on Sundays when everything is closed?
 
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Pick up cans of tuna (not all can be open without a can opener but some are), or sardines. Buy nuts, or an chunk of ham which keeps nicely even if not refrigerated (you see them hanging in window shops after all: it has enough salt to keep for a few days, if not many days). Bars on the Frances will still be open on Sumdays as they cater to pilgrims.
 
@psychoticparrot restaurants are not closed on Sundays, nor are bars (think café when someone uses the term "bar"), so Sundays are unlikely to be a problem. In fact the "menu del dia" on Sundays is often a more expensive than the rest of the week because it is a bit special - families tend to eat out on Sundays and expect something better than weekday fare. So you should have no problem.

High protein food is not a problem except at breakfast time. The tortilla is a good option, and if you want even more then ask for a "tortilla Francés" - which is a plain egg omelette, no potatoes. In most of Spain it is only available from about lunchtime because it is not considered a breakfast food, but I noticed on the Camino Francés last September that it is now often produced much earlier, presumably in response to demand from those of us used to protein based breakfasts. There is also cheese, of course, and Spanish Jamon Serrano is exceedingly good. Tuna is also a mainstay of many meals and available in even the smallest food supermarket. I'd probably carry a few tins in my backpack as emergency backup.

For the rest of the day there are likely to be plenty of high protein choices. As well as the menu del dia there are platos combinados (combined plates) full of high protein - meat, chicken or fish, often with an egg as well, together with vegetables. Platos combinados are sold in many bars as well as restaurants.
 
However, the surgery did change my nutrition requirements. I can only eat a few ounces of food at each meal and I must have a few ounces of protein for at least two of my three meals -- meats, chicken, fish, or eggs. That's another reason I need to know when and what kind typical Spanish fare is served. It would be very easy for me to become malnourished on the Camino unless I become very savvy about Spanish cuisine.

Since I won't be staying in public alburgues, I won't be cooking my own food. So, how do I manage on Sundays when everything is closed?
I was watching my protein trying to get a minimum of 100g per day if not 150 mg. I'm normally a vegetarian but in Spain I put my vegetarianism on hold and the food is worth it. Most salads have some tuna on top, there are lots of bean and lentil options if you can eat those. The jamon and manchego cheese is ubiquitous. You can pick up tinned scallops/tuna/clams which goes well in a homemade bocadilla along the way. The good thing about the menu del dia is that the serves of meat etc are not hideously huge compared to veggies etc. Think about a portion the size of your palm. So that is 20-30g of protein. Tapas are probably the perfect size for you! You will not come across much milk and certainly not fresh milk. The first fresh milk ie something that did not come in a tetrapak and was UHT treated, I found in Ourense, 5 days out from SdC. Only took 32 days to find it! And then it was in a vending machine at the Ourense markets!
 
The one from Galicia (the round) and the one from Castilla & Leon. Individually numbered and made by the same people that make the ones you see on your walk.
Hi @psychoticparrot, I don't have very much to add as you've already got some great advice. Just one other suggestion - I always bring a small ziplock bag of milled flaxseed, which I add to yogurt or other foods to boost the protein content. I bring it from home, but I've managed to replenish in the larger supermarkets along the way. I usually have some natural yogurt with fruit and flaxseed before I start walking and I always carry nuts and dark chocolate (the Spanish dark chocolate with almonds is especially nice!).

As others have said, if you're walking the Camino Frances you shouldn't have too many problems.
 
Pick up cans of tuna (not all can be open without a can opener but some are), or sardines. Buy nuts, or an chunk of ham which keeps nicely even if not refrigerated (you see them hanging in window shops after all: it has enough salt to keep for a few days, if not many days). Bars on the Frances will still be open on Sumdays as they cater to pilgrims.

Ham, mmmmmmmm. I've heard wonderful things about Spanish ham. Thanks for the tips.
 
I was watching my protein trying to get a minimum of 100g per day if not 150 mg. I'm normally a vegetarian but in Spain I put my vegetarianism on hold and the food is worth it. Most salads have some tuna on top, there are lots of bean and lentil options if you can eat those. The jamon and manchego cheese is ubiquitous. You can pick up tinned scallops/tuna/clams which goes well in a homemade bocadilla along the way. The good thing about the menu del dia is that the serves of meat etc are not hideously huge compared to veggies etc. Think about a portion the size of your palm. So that is 20-30g of protein. Tapas are probably the perfect size for you! You will not come across much milk and certainly not fresh milk. The first fresh milk ie something that did not come in a tetrapak and was UHT treated, I found in Ourense, 5 days out from SdC. Only took 32 days to find it! And then it was in a vending machine at the Ourense markets!

"Tapas are probably the perfect size for you."

That sounds about right. When Mr. psychoticparrot and I go out to eat, I often order a starter instead of an entree. The problem with starters here is that they tend to be low on protein and high on starch and fat. The 20-30g protein portion in the menu del dia more than meets my protein requirements for a meal. I don't eat or drink much dairy, so milk scarcity is not a problem.

Ham and canned fish will take care of the rest. Sounds like I'll need to pack a spork. Thanks for your help.
 
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Ham, mmmmmmmm. I've heard wonderful things about Spanish ham. Thanks for the tips.

Hi psychoticparrot, I did not know you had special dietary requirements, so I'm glad the other posters have filled in those gaps. As they say, protein will absolutely not be a problem. Spaniards eat a lot of meat, and even their vegetable dishes typically have ham, sausage, or other meat in them. This may drive the vegetarians/vegans crazy, but it will be great for you. The tortillas (typical egg omelettes) are also one of the most widely served "tapa" or appetizer. And canned fish and seafood of all kinds are available in every little store you will see. There are plenty of those easy-open cans, so you don't risk your life opening them with a knife.

And I have been told many times that if you eat Spanish jamon iberico (Iberian ham), you don't have to worry about the fat. Supposedly, that type of cured ham (which is different from your more common cured ham, jamon Serrano) has omega-3 acids because of the fact that the pigs are fed an all-acorn diet. Whether that is scientifically based or not, eating jamon iberico is quite a treat, but you will insult the person who serves it to you if you cut off the buttery fat, as I once saw someone to, much to the waiter's horror.
 
"Tapas are probably the perfect size for you."

That sounds about right. When Mr. psychoticparrot and I go out to eat, I often order a starter instead of an entree. The problem with starters here is that they tend to be low on protein and high on starch and fat. The 20-30g protein portion in the menu del dia more than meets my protein requirements for a meal. I don't eat or drink much dairy, so milk scarcity is not a problem.

Ham and canned fish will take care of the rest. Sounds like I'll need to pack a spork. Thanks for your help.
While many tapas are served on a small slice of bread others can be mostly protein. Another food to carry around, if you can eat high in fat, is chorizo, a paprika salami. Palacios is a brand I like. Chorizo is typically sold in plastic bags for 2€ or so for some 20 inches in all small shops and grocery stores. Yum!
 
Hi psychoticparrot, I did not know you had special dietary requirements, so I'm glad the other posters have filled in those gaps. As they say, protein will absolutely not be a problem. Spaniards eat a lot of meat, and even their vegetable dishes typically have ham, sausage, or other meat in them. This may drive the vegetarians/vegans crazy, but it will be great for you. The tortillas (typical egg omelettes) are also one of the most widely served "tapa" or appetizer. And canned fish and seafood of all kinds are available in every little store you will see. There are plenty of those easy-open cans, so you don't risk your life opening them with a knife.

And I have been told many times that if you eat Spanish jamon iberico (Iberian ham), you don't have to worry about the fat. Supposedly, that type of cured ham (which is different from your more common cured ham, jamon Serrano) has omega-3 acids because of the fact that the pigs are fed an all-acorn diet. Whether that is scientifically based or not, eating jamon iberico is quite a treat, but you will insult the person who serves it to you if you cut off the buttery fat, as I once saw someone to, much to the waiter's horror.

"...you will insult the person who serves it to you if you cut off the buttery fat, as I once saw someone to, much to the waiter's horror."

Hahaha, no problem there! I know from previous trips to Germany and Austria that the fat on pork is the best part and intended to be eaten. I'm sure I'll be able to walk off the extra calories.
 
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While many tapas are served on a small slice of bread others can be mostly protein. Another food to carry around, if you can eat high in fat, is chorizo, a paprika salami. Palacios is a brand I like. Chorizo is typically sold in plastic bags for 2€ or so for some 20 inches in all small shops and grocery stores. Yum!

Definitely intend to sample the chorizo, which I hope will taste better than the various chorizos I tried in Nicaragua, which were (no offense to Nicaraguans!) a little less than tasty. It could be that my gringa taste buds weren't accustomed to it. I noted your Palacios brand in my permanent notes, so I'll remember your recommendation. Thanks.
 
My husband and I are 65-year-old Americans and eat our 3 daily meals at the usual American times -- around 7am for breakfast (usually eggs/toast/fruit/coffee); around 1pm for lunch (soup/salads/sandwiches); and around 6pm for dinner (our biggest meal).

How do the meals vary in Spain in both content and frequency in cafes or restaurants? I've gleaned a bit of info from several threads. It seems the cafes don't open for breakfast until 9am (at the earliest) and then generally serve only cafe con leche w/bread or pastry, so it's best to purchase something the day before to hold you over until they open. I also saw somewhere that cafes close for siesta in the afternoon, so no food until they open at 6pm (at the earliest). Is this correct?

We know we'll have to alter our eating hours and habits on the road, but by how much? When are the best times to stop to have meals? We don't plan on staying in public albergues, so we won't be doing the communal meal thing. We'll be depending on cafes and restaurants to feed us.
When in Spain;)......sounds like a perfect opportunity to break from the norm. Always a good idea to have food & water at all times. Some favourites are hard cheese, canned fish, fruit,chocolate, olives bread, protein bars. Wish you Buen Camino.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
Most bars will have tortilla when they open for the day. It will give you a boost of protein energy. Give it a try with your first coffee!
But isn't tortilla too bulky for someone with gastric bypass of some sort, and with little protein relative to potatoes? It was my understanding people who have had this type of surgery can only eat a few bites/ounces at a time?
 
Definitely intend to sample the chorizo, which I hope will taste better than the various chorizos I tried in Nicaragua, which were (no offense to Nicaraguans!) a little less than tasty. It could be that my gringa taste buds weren't accustomed to it. I noted your Palacios brand in my permanent notes, so I'll remember your recommendation. Thanks.
Urgh... is it the chewy stuff? We have just started getting in real chorizo here in Montreal, before people used to try to pass the chewy portuguese stuff as chorizo. Yuk. I like my fibery chorizo, and even more when it's been hanging for a few days shedding extra oil and moisture on the floor, to my dogs' delight.
 
Other than siestas I found it pretty straight forward. As mentioned seems to be most everything shuts between about 2PM and 6PM... then pilgrim dinners around 7 or 8... Spanish people usually eat at 9 or 10. If you are out after night-life doesn't really start until after midnight and in bigger places like Lugrono we would see young children (6-10 year old range) with there parents, fully dressed up after midnight around town.
 
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But isn't tortilla too bulky for someone with gastric bypass of some sort, and with little protein relative to potatoes? It was my understanding people who have had this type of surgery can only eat a few bites/ounces at a time?

I didn't get bypass surgery. I had a newer procedure called the vertical sleeve gastrectomy, commonly called "the sleeve." 90% of my stomach was removed, but there was no rerouting of the intestinal tract, so digestion remains normal. I can eat a volume equivalent to the size of a tennis ball at a meal. If the meal consists mostly of carbohydrates, it will digest faster than a meal of mostly protein, so if I need more energy for walking, I can eat a few high-carb snacks between high-protein meals. In fact, I could very easily regain my weight if I ate nothing but high-carb foods (something I must always be on guard against).

I will be able to eat only a few bites of the tortilla, but fear not -- my husband will finish the rest! My concern was mostly about whether I would be able to obtain enough protein in general, and it appears the answer is a resounding "YES."
 
Urgh... is it the chewy stuff? We have just started getting in real chorizo here in Montreal, before people used to try to pass the chewy portuguese stuff as chorizo. Yuk. I like my fibery chorizo, and even more when it's been hanging for a few days shedding extra oil and moisture on the floor, to my dogs' delight.

I can't quite describe the taste of Nicaraguan chorizo because it doesn't have much taste at all. It has a meatlike texture and a vague meatlike taste. I'm not even sure what kind of meat it was made from. In one restaurant, we saw horse steaks on the menu. Again, no offense to Nicaraguans. Where Nicaraguan cuisine goes wrong is when they try to replicate dishes from other countries, like American beefsteak or Spanish chorizo, for example. Whenever I tried comidas tipicas nicaragua, I was nearly always very pleasantly surprised. Pollo jalapeno -- num-num. Vigoron is also very good. I also ate tres leches cake more often than I should have.
 
I can't quite describe the taste of Nicaraguan chorizo because it doesn't have much taste at all. It has a meatlike texture and a vague meatlike taste. I'm not even sure what kind of meat it was made from. In one restaurant, we saw horse steaks on the menu. Again, no offense to Nicaraguans. Where Nicaraguan cuisine goes wrong is when they try to replicate dishes from other countries, like American beefsteak or Spanish chorizo, for example. Whenever I tried comidas tipicas nicaragua, I was nearly always very pleasantly surprised. Pollo jalapeno -- num-num. Vigoron is also very good. I also ate tres leches cake more often than I should have.
Oh, pastel de tres leches ... Someone needs to start adding this to the Pilgrim menu!
 
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Come to think of it, Torta de Santiago is pretty high protein! Basically it is almond meal, sugar and eggs. Yum.

Hahaha! That's the same reasoning my husband uses to classify carrot cake as a vegetable. :rolleyes: But I'll certainly have a bite or two if I encounter it.
 
...and ship it to Santiago for storage. You pick it up once in Santiago. Service offered by Casa Ivar (we use DHL for transportation).
Try the morcilla instead of the chorizo. It is chock full of protein.;)

Googled chorizo and morcilla. They have similar calorie counts per 100g, but morcilla has slightly more protein and less fat. Will try it if/when I encounter it.
 
Yes @Anemone del Camino ! Me too - I was so glad to get inside out of pouring cold rain, huddled inside that little bar, lovely warmth and the delicious smell of hot fried morcilla - wonderful. Just let's be careful not to be too graphic about the ingredients, lest we give our vegetarian friends palpitations.
 
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Hi @psychoticparrot, I don't have very much to add as you've already got some great advice. Just one other suggestion - I always bring a small ziplock bag of milled flaxseed, which I add to yogurt or other foods to boost the protein content. I bring it from home, but I've managed to replenish in the larger supermarkets along the way. I usually have some natural yogurt with fruit and flaxseed before I start walking and I always carry nuts and dark chocolate (the Spanish dark chocolate with almonds is especially nice!).

As others have said, if you're walking the Camino Frances you shouldn't have too many problems.
Can you bring a bag of prepackaged trail mix from the US or is better to buy them there?
 
There are a lot of great ideas for adjusting to the Spanish eating schedule here. We had the most difficulty adjusting to the late evening meals as sleeping on a full stomach was yuck. So you just adapt to what works for you. We did enjoy the tostada de potatis and the awesome salads...and the wines!
 
€2,-/day will present your project to thousands of visitors each day. All interested in the Camino de Santiago.
I would buy trail mix, which is basically nuts and dried fruit in Spain - think of what Spain produces! Almonds and fruit. Trail mix is everywhere. Although I would not think dried fruit would be good for someone who has had bariatric surgery.
 
I would buy trail mix, which is basically nuts and dried fruit in Spain - think of what Spain produces! Almonds and fruit. Trail mix is everywhere. Although I would not think dried fruit would be good for someone who has had bariatric surgery.

I have no restrictions on what I am able to eat, but to lose weight, my diet consists mostly of protein with some low-carb vegetables and a little fresh fruit. I sometimes eat a few prunes in the evening for obvious reasons. But as a general rule, you're correct, dried fruit is a high-carb/high-calorie snack I usually avoid. Same for nutritious but very high-calorie nuts.
 
The focus is on reducing the risk of failure through being well prepared. 2nd ed.
I have no restrictions on what I am able to eat, but to lose weight, my diet consists mostly of protein with some low-carb vegetables and a little fresh fruit. I sometimes eat a few prunes in the evening for obvious reasons. But as a general rule, you're correct, dried fruit is a high-carb/high-calorie snack I usually avoid. Same for nutritious but very high-calorie nuts.
with all this walking you may be able to pass on the prunes ;)
 

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