Hi friend. Ah, love the Primitivo. I’ve walked twice around the time you’re planning.
in 2014, started from Oviedo 29 September
In 2019´ started from Oviedo 7 October.
Both times took me 12 days to SdeC but facilities allow for shorter stages. My experience not so recent but, for what it’s worth -
1. Good numbers of pilgrims both times. Fewer in 2014. More in 2019 but still didn’t feel crowded. Reminded me of Frances when I first walked in 2011. Maybe busier now? Those walking currently will no doubt chime in.
2. Yes Albergues were open
3. Yes I had a light sleeping bag
4. Not too cold - the usual layers apply. Some rain, but not a lot. Galicia yes
5. I had a headlamp torch, but only used it a few times. I usually started walking around 8. Only used the torch when wanting to start earlier due to longer kms. If you’re walking 20-23 kms, you probably don’t need to leave too early, subject to your speed of course.
Adelina, I wrote a blog for both walks. Happy to send you the links by PM if you like. Or maybe you already have them.
One of my very favourite caminô paths.
ps. And great news re being a hospitalero in Grado.