Of course, like all other things, The Way changes.
But the hospitalero(a) remain as the real angels of my experience. Arre, Cezur Menor, Granon, San Juan de Ortega, Castrojeriz, Boadilla, Terradillos, Reliegos, Villar de Mazarife, Pieros, Ruitelan, Las Herrerias, Fonfria, Vilacha, and San Xulian come to mind as I page thru Gronze stages. Pretty much what they all have in common is that few are municipal or end-stages of major guides, and most have a communal meal. But, for me, the hospitalero/a has been the positive camino experience equal to, or even greater than my ‘camino family’-I hope that pilgrim bad behavior does not drive away the kindness of the hospitalero.
My first was in May 2005 and I encountered the same bed-race as 2016--And the same few selfish inconsiderate fellow pilgrims.
I talked an evening with a Dutch couple who ran a private in Castrojeriz, and they were looking to sell because The Way had changed so much over their 4 years: the rudeness of the summer pilgrims—drunken shouting all night, peeing in their doorway, etc. which they attributed it to the differing age demographic. My takeaway from that discussion was that the summer season was already much more of a mobile party and much less like the spiritual experience I was having. All of my future caminos were in the ‘shoulder’ seasons (April-Jun, Sept-Nov) or alternate routes.
And over that 14 years, technology and its unintended consequences have changed everything.
- I remember lines at the sparse internet terminals in albergues and trying feed in euros before it crashed along with the bulk email I was trying to send. Never any wifi.
- I navigated by following the yellow arrows. And remembering my shadow needed to be on my right.
- There was no reservation system supported by smartphones; I just used the one sheet handout from the amis in SJPdP to find stopping places and distances.
- There was no visible pack courier service.
- And I have only 8 photographs because I carried no camera.
And then the increased publicity: I only had McLaine and Cohelo to set my expectations. Tim Moore in 2004, Kierkling in 2009, Hyosun in 2010, and ‘The Way” movie in 2010. Then Wordpress blogs, YouTube vlogs, and discussion forums. And the tour groups. Each of these brought new walkers with a different agenda. But all acting to raise the expectations of future pilgrims (The Way!! Really!! It’s a move not and experience!!)
In 2005 English speaking countries accounted for 6,900 of the 100,400 compostela (6%). In 2017, they accounted for 41,000 of the 293,000 compostela—14%! SJPdp leavers: 2005 a mere 9,800 with 600 from USA and 1000 Canadian, in 2017 about 57,000. With 8300 USA and 2100 Canadians.
But every successive camino has been a joyful experience—fellow pilgrims, hospitalero/a, the food, the walking, café con leche, and the solitary times. I have had to steadily change my expectations and sometimes work hard to avoid of my judgmental self. And as much as I would like to go back in time, so much is about expectations---and patience.
“Suffering or happiness is created through one's relationship to experience, not by experience itself. “
To the extent that hospitalero/a are forced into ‘you are part of the tourist industry’ (ie: cater to me), the experience will change even more. Luckily, there is a huge group of pilgrims who wish to give back so others can have a positive experience. So maybe the two drives will balance.
And I cannot imagine walking in Xacobeo 2021 holy year!! Not my thing even with my prior experience and ability to adapt. But I do love the Frances and pray the infirmities of old age are delayed enough for yet another long walk.