Aragones numbers in decline

[sillydoll]

While Roncesvalles has had a 17% increase in the number of pilgrims who have stayed in the shelter of the Collegiate Church on the way, the Aragones route has had a significant decline of around 16.5%.
Last year 192,000 pilgrims arrived in Santiago - 1021 started in Jaca.
Statistics are "bleak" and the fall of the number of pilgrims on the Aragones sine 1998 is "giddy". The pilgrimage route has become "second product" despite being a World Heritage Site.
Somport and Jaca and have been losing strength over the years, although in 1987 it hosted the International Camino Congress and marked the outlines of this route in Spain
The failure of institutional campaigns or competition between different branches that cross Aragon are the main factors contributing to this route has fallen into disuse in the last 14 years. The numbers are decreasing every year in Aragon, a record that probably can not be overcome until the arrival of the next Holy Year of 2021.

http://www.radiohuesca.com/noticia/498731/El-Camino-de-Santiago-en-Aragon-en-declive

 

[MendiWalker]

Sorry to hear the numbers are down because it´s such a lovely area.

Buen Camino!

 

[sillydoll]

It is a stunning route with spectacular scenery. If anyone planning on a walking a Camino prefers a more challenging start, they should hike the Aragones, preferably from the 'authentic'* starting place around Borce.

* Aimery Picaud listed the start of this walk in ± 1137 at Borce

 

[julie]

It is a stunning route with spectacular scenery. If anyone planning on a walking a Camino prefers a more challenging start, they should hike the Aragones, preferably from the 'authentic'* starting place around Borce.

* Aimery Picaud listed the start of this walk in ± 1137 at Borce

It is indeed a stunning route. Given enough time, however, I would recommend adding a couple of days before Borce to start in Oloron Sainte Marie or further back in Auch. The French and Spanish sides are very different from each other but both are spectacular.

 

[KinkyOne]

Another reason to take this route and stay away from CF crowds if walking in high season

 

[kilgore]

I agree with that, it's a spectacular scenery. Personally, I hope to walk this camino in november. I go every summer (and every now and then the rest of the year) to the Pyreenes and almost always to the Aragon part (sometimes in the French side). For me, when anybody talk about these mountains, I always think in the central part of it (Aragón, Cataluña and the same area in France). There is where the highest mountains are and where I can feel the "alta montaña" emotions. I like very much the Navarra part but it's more about green hills and beautiful forests. Therefore, for me, it's really special beginning the Camino in Somport. Besides I love Jaca, and I recommend it to everybody.
On the other hand I understand as well the SJPD/Roncesvalles charmings. It is easier to arrive there if you come from Europe, the scenery is amazing and now the tradition is beginning there. But I hope more people decide to make the Aragonés.

 

[dalston999]

Yes, I can't understand why more people don't walk this route. I walked it from Montpellier to Puenta la Reina this April and May and found 3 French men and 3 German women between Lescar and Puenta la Reina, and a few French people before that. Luckily I am quite happy walking on my own! It is a beautiful route with much to rival the Frances, particularly along the Aragones. Also, some really lovely places to stay with some great hosts. However, perhaps we should not encourage too many others in case it too gets overcrowded!

 

[nellpilgrim]

On my ongoing journey from Nurnberg to SDC I'm getting ready to 'hang right and head south' (ish) after Switzerland so I've been thinking about route decisions in France and Spain-and the call of the Aragones route is definitely getting stronger. I'm walking solo so I'm a little bit concerned about the Somport and I'll be crossing in Spring or Autumn time which can be a bit trickier. I had a 'cunning plan' of hanging around Oloron Sainte Marie and trying to link up with another slow/nervous pilgrim for the crossing (then we'd have a bit of time to get into step, abort/find alternative walking buddies or, in my daydream world form the nucleus of a little group of other nervous nellies wanting to cross) but with pilgrim numbers on the CA dropping so low this looks like it will be hard to choreograph .
So my next cunning plan is to ask forum members to 'drum up trade' for this route by any means fair or foul but not too much of course... as I don't want my experience ruined by crowds of other pilgrims. (I'm joking.... I'd be happy to one of a cast of thousands)

 

[MendiWalker]

I agree with that, it's a spectacular scenery. Personally, I hope to walk this camino in november. I go every summer (and every now and then the rest of the year) to the Pyreenes and almost always to the Aragon part (sometimes in the French side). For me, when anybody talk about these mountains, I always think in the central part of it (Aragón, Cataluña and the same area in France). There is where the highest mountains are and where I can feel the "alta montaña" emotions. I like very much the Navarra part but it's more about green hills and beautiful forests. Therefore, for me, it's really special beginning the Camino in Somport. Besides I love Jaca, and I recommend it to everybody.
On the other hand I understand as well the SJPD/Roncesvalles charmings. It is easier to arrive there if you come from Europe, the scenery is amazing and now the tradition is beginning there. But I hope more people decide to make the Aragonés.

Que poco conocidos son los Pirineos y eso que son una maravilla.

Buen Camino!

 

[camino07]

I walked the Aragones from Somport this May with a previous Camino buddy. I was so happy to have her company but I could have joined up with others if I had been alone as there was about 20 of us who met up at night and we formed a family. I found it exhilarating with fantastic scenery.I would love to do it again someday. Don't hesitate to experience it if you can, to me it had a special ambience.
Go Aragones!!

 

[SYates]

I love the Camino Aragones (walked it several times) and part of its attraction (for me) IS the lower number of pilgrims. SY

 

[nellpilgrim]

I love the Camino Aragones (walked it several times) and part of its attraction (for me) IS the lower number of pilgrims. SY

I agree walking alone is wonderful and I've been solo since start of this current journey from Nurnberg and having met no other walkers at all for the first 225km and no other pilgrim (note singular!) for the first 450km I do mean solo. Which has been more than fine as it's a function of both my route choices and the seasons I choose to walk in (I've also learned go off route and head down from the hills to seek out human company when I find myself getting a little bat@%&> crazy-it happens)
So my reason for seeking out the company of other pilgrims to cross The Somport is not for their wit and charming conversation (though that is welcome of course) but, as not I'm the fittest (by a yard) or the fastest (by a very long 'Irish mile' ) or the youngest (please let's not go there), for the very selfish reason of my own safety on a route that can offer some challenges at the best of times.
So I hope it isn't going to be a case of 'there ain't nobody here but this chicken' when I get to Oloron Ste Marie

 

[Deleted member 3000]

In early June this year, I was alone on the Aragones most days, but encountered two or three other pilgrims a couple of times. According to guest books along the way, albergues can fill in July and August. There is very little backup accommodation capacity, so when it is full, it can be a long walk to the next place (or a quick taxi).

Somport is a much more amenable crossing than the Napolean route! It is harder work, but for a shorter time, and there is no need for a long day if you don't want one.

 

[nellpilgrim]

Thanks Falcon,
I'd be aiming to cross mid to late late April - early May or late Sept early Oct depending on how I go on the French sections. And in my case it'd be a quick Taxi for sure!

 

[peregrina2000]

Well, I am pretty much thinking I'm going to walk the Frances till Leon and then repeat the Salvador/Primitivo connection to Santiago (how can I resist with all these recent posts bombarding me with pictures and memories of those gorgeous routes???). I've been wanting to walk the Aragones for years, and this post got me thinking.

Can someone give me ideas about where to start? I like ascents, so I don't really want to start up at the top on the French border, but maybe getting a little further back (to Oloron Ste. Marie is one place that many people recommend) would be complicated.

So the question. If I land in Madrid, how would I get to a good starting point in France on the Aragones? Or does it just make more sense to go in and out of France and then figure out the Santiago-Paris connection?

Thanks guys -- usually I wait till the grey dreary days of winter to plan my camino, but this year seems to be different! Laurie

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Oloron is easy to get to on the train from France.

From Madrid, I would suggest a train to Estacion Canfranc, probably connecting through Zaragoza, or bus to Jaca, then train or bus to Canfranc.

From Canfranc there are regular buses to Oloron. Start there or any of the villages you pass on the way to Oloron!

 

[lynnejohn]

Sounds like an exciting camino you have planned, Laurie!!! Can't wait to hear more about it!

 

[kilgore]

Hi Laurie
I am planning to walk this camino in november. I would take a train to Zaragoza from Madrid (AVE) and then a bus to Jaca (www.alosa.es) I prefer this option because there are few trains from Zaragoza to Canfranc and it takes a lot of time arriving there. Then I would take another bus from Jaca to Somport (http://www.jacetania.es/jacetaneas/opencms/site/web/portada/informacion_practica/). This bus has a stop in Canfranc where you can take another bus to Oloron (http://www.ter-sncf.com/Regions/Aquitaine/fr/Default.aspx), as Falcon269 has written.

 

[sillydoll]

Go safely Kilgore. This route can be dangerous in winter, especially if there is heavy snowfall, so listen to the locals about paths to take.
There is some info and advice from other pilgrims on my Winter pilgrim blog. http://amawalker.blogspot.com/2009/10/walking-in-winter.html

 

[kilgore]

Thank you Sillydoll. One possibility I consider, if the weather is too bad, is beggining in Jaca and not in Somport. If everything goes right I would walk the whole CF between november and december, so your blog and some others like the one by Margaret Meredith are very useful and encouraging.

 

[chinasky]

I'm sorry to hear that the Aragonese Way is considered in "decline", but I do not consider it just because it not have the same pace of growth of the French.
Precisely for this reason i will walk to the cammino from Urdos to Puente from 20 October and I really hope to spend some time just admiring the scenery and meditating. I would not mind, however, to exchange a few words in the evening, in the albergues, with other pilgrims.
Bye

 

[ranthr]

Well, I am pretty much thinking I'm going to walk the Frances till Leon and then repeat the Salvador/Primitivo connection to Santiago (how can I resist with all these recent posts bombarding me with pictures and memories of those gorgeous routes???). I've been wanting to walk the Aragones for years, and this post got me thinking.

Can someone give me ideas about where to start? I like ascents, so I don't really want to start up at the top on the French border, but maybe getting a little further back (to Oloron Ste. Marie is one place that many people recommend) would be complicated.

So the question. If I land in Madrid, how would I get to a good starting point in France on the Aragones? Or does it just make more sense to go in and out of France and then figure out the Santiago-Paris connection?

Thanks guys -- usually I wait till the grey dreary days of winter to plan my camino, but this year seems to be different! Laurie

Laurie, start in Oloron St. Marie or in Lourdes. the bus from Canfranc Estation goes to Oloron after a trip up to Somport.The way up to Somport from Oloron is well marked, but if the weather is bad you might have to take the road. There are beautiful places up the Valle de Aspe. But I liked best the camino from Somport to Jaca. I walked there in May 2012 and there were a few pilgrims on the roads. The albergues were not full anywhere. A lot of work had been done on the route probably for the holy year 2010. Where i expected to wade rivers, there were footbridges etc..
randi

 

[peregrina2000]

Do you know how I can find out the

Hi Laurie
I am planning to walk this camino in november. I would take a train to Zaragoza from Madrid (AVE) and then a bus to Jaca (www.alosa.es) I prefer this option because there are few trains from Zaragoza to Canfranc and it takes a lot of time arriving there. Then I would take another bus from Jaca to Somport (http://www.jacetania.es/jacetaneas/opencms/site/web/portada/informacion_practica/). This bus has a stop in Canfranc where you can take another bus to Oloron (http://www.ter-sncf.com/Regions/Aquitaine/fr/Default.aspx), as Falcon269 has written.

Hi, kilgore, I checked out the RENFE site and it seems that the total travel time from Madrid to Canfranc is between 6 hours and 6 hours 45 mins. The wait in Zaragoza is an hour or less on either of the two trains -- one leaves Madrid at 6:30 am, gets to Canfranc 12:30 pm, the other leaves Madrid at 1 pm, arrives Canfranc 7:30. Then it looks like there is a bus from Canfranc to Oloron at either 6 pm or 8 pm, so the later train has a pretty good connection time.

Did you find it would be quicker to get on the bus in Zaragoza? Thanks!

 

[kilgore]

Hi Laurie
It takes, more or less, 1h and 15 min from Madrid to Zaragoza. Then, the time between Zaragoza and Jaca is either 1 hour 55 min (at 18:00) or 2h 30 min. I see now that the problem is with the buses from Jaca to Canfranc Station, because there are five at 8:45, 12:00, 14:45, 19:35, and 21,45. The 19:35 bus arrives at Canfranc at 8 pm, so it's quite impossible taking the train to Oloron. Therefore, you are right, the train has better connection time if you want to start in Oloron.
Starting in Somport is quite different. My idea is taking the train at 16:05 in Madrid. Then the bus to Jaca at 18:00. I would arrive at 8 pm and I would sleep in Jaca. Next morning I would take the bus at 8:45 and would sleep again in Jaca. If the weather is bad I, unfortunately, would avoid the Somport- Jaca part.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

so it's quite impossible taking the train to Oloron

Canfranc Estación:
This small village (altitude 1190 m.) was largely created due to the inauguration of a railroad crossing the Pyrenees on 18 July 1928. Canfranc Estación is most well known due to its huge abandoned railway station. The French side of the railway station is a forsaken place since an accident destroyed the bridge at nearby L'Estanguet* on 27 March 1970 and definitely ended the international link between Bedous France and Canfranc Estacion Spain.

Very impossible...

The train ride from Zaragoza to Jaca/Canfranc takes a bit over four hours. Only a couple of trains go past Jaca to Canfranc. From Canfranc there is regular bus service to Oloron-Ste. Marie.

Bus leaves Canfranc at 1139, 1305, and 1750 most days.

 

[peregrina2000]

If I'm reading things right, this regular bus service from Canfranc Station is provided by SNCF, the French train system, so I assume it is timed to facilitate transfers onto the trains. Looks like it goes from Canfranc to Oloron to Pau. So for people wanting to start "further back" on the Arles route, this might be a relatively good way to get to your starting point from Spain.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

SNCF has been regionalized a bit, so it is TER Aquitaine providing the service, though ticket sales are handled by SNCF. This link should give the latest schedule, but will become obsolete as it is revised over the years!

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...=xCuf3vZhoGE_rC5wy9p4HQ&bvm=bv.53217764,d.dmg

 

[fraluchi]

The numbers are decreasing every year in Aragon, a record that probably can not be overcome until the arrival of the next Holy Year of 2021.

This should be good news as an alternative to those who are fed-up with crowds on the Camino Francés.
It's easy to fly into Pamplona airport and pick up an afternoon bus to Jaca. Starting at Jaca and visiting the town's historical sites is a worthwhile decision (it's also possible to obtain a pilgrim's Credencial at the cathedral). Do not miss the nearby, unique Monastery of San Juan de la Peña (bus leaving early morning from Jaca bus station).
The Camino Aragonés from Jaca to Puente de la Reina is beautiful and offers all needs for pilgrims within easy daily walkable distances.

 

[tipperary]

Hi all,
I have walked this route twice. On one occasion I flew into Toulouse and the other into Biarritz. There are very good train connections from Toulouse and Bayonne to Oloron. Indeed when I used Biarritz I had arrived in Oloron ahead of those going to St Jean. Some of the Albergues I remember close at the end of October, so its worth checking. Some of the Albergues have a capacity of about 20 and many were about two thirds full. The numbers giving Jaca as their starting point in Santiago as their starting point does not accurately reflect the numbers on this route. In my case on each occasion I did not continue to Santiago. This route is very beautiful and I don't see it in decline in in spite of what the numbers from Santiago say.
Buen camino
Justin

 

[Irène Elisabet]

I am now thinking of altering my plans to fly into Toulouse, bus to Lourdes, then bus to SJPP and walk the Frances. I have been trying to researching a walking route from Lourdes - if anyone has a link or page or guide that would provide more specifics of this route I'd be very appreciative. From what I've learned its Lourdes to Oloron to Somport going along the Aragones route then you hitch onto the Frances in Puenta de la Reina. Is that correct? Sorry for my total ignorance

 

[fraluchi]

Correct. Somport, Jaca (don't miss San Juan de la Peña monastery), Eunate (not possible to miss), Puente la Reina and from there the Camino Francés to Santiago de Compostela.
Ultreya!

 

[dalston999]

It is also quite easy to fly into P au and walk from there, or get the bus from Lourdes airport to Pau and pick up the main route via Lescar to La Commande.

Very good chambre d'Hote in Pau just near the race course on the chemin if you need a recommendation, with a former pilgrim.

 

[jennysa]

I started from Somport and my biggest regret was not starting at Oleron. Most of the handful of pilgrims I met along the way had all started there.

 

[colinPeter]

Jaca is a good city to visit, I found the nightly pilgrim mass (Parroquia de Santiago - Calle del Ferrenal) very friendly and most welcoming (regulars inviting anyone who looked like a pilgrim to go out for the blessing).
As mentioned, the Monastery of San Juan de la Peña is just spectacular.
Buen Camino
Colin

 

[Kathy F.]

Hmmmm.
It sounds intriguing.
And compelling.

 

[kilgore]

Yesterday I went to the "Asociación" in Madrid to get my credencial. If nothing goes wrong on friday 15th I will be in Jaca and next day I will start the Camino Aragonés. The person I was talking with is also a fan of the Aragonés, and told me that few people choose this way. I am very encouraged to walk it and I think that even the weather will be ok, at least the first two days.

 

[Anniesantiago]

I am now thinking of altering my plans to fly into Toulouse, bus to Lourdes, then bus to SJPP and walk the Frances. I have been trying to researching a walking route from Lourdes - if anyone has a link or page or guide that would provide more specifics of this route I'd be very appreciative. From what I've learned its Lourdes to Oloron to Somport going along the Aragones route then you hitch onto the Frances in Puenta de la Reina. Is that correct? Sorry for my total ignorance

We walked from Lourdes a couple of years ago. It was a magnificent walk! I love the Aragones route. I heard it was going to be flooded again... any news on that?

 

[Rebekah Scott]

Don´t miss the cathedral and museum at Jaca, they are some of the most spectacular and influential Romanesque monuments in Spain. You see the "Jaca checkerboard" motif repeated over and over in the stonework of churches all the way down the Camino Frances -- you see that, you know the Benedictines from Cluny, the pioneers of the Way, had a hand in the foundation. They did it first in Jaca!

 

[caminka]

I walked aragones twice, once all the way from lescar, the second time from somport. for me, it's more beautiful then frances, probably also because the mountains last longer and higher, and there are more pretty villages to admire.

last year I didn't get the feeling that the numbers were in decline. ok, I was the only pilgrim in canfranc, but that is not a usual stop-over albergue. jaca albergue was full. arres refugio was full (I was there at the beginning of august and they said that it was the first summer night when things got a little bit quieter, previous night pilgrims slept in the church porch). sanguesa albergues were full (pilgrims were searching for accommodation well into the evening). monreal albergue was half-full. the route even felt a bit crowded at times.

I know that pilgrims mean money, but in some way I am happy if aragones never gets crowded.