RoryGentry
Follow me!!! (Where are we, anyway?)
- Time of past OR future Camino
- Burgos to Santiago, Sept. 16-Oct. 3, 2013
Santiago to Finisterre to Muxia to Santiago, April 2014
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PS Do you want a Google map with the etapas marked on it? I have on which I would be happy to sent you. You could then use that copy for your own base.
What Laurie has written is right on the mark. You do need to get stamps on the way to prove that you have walked and not taken transport. The Dumbria albergue is state of the art with great showers, radiant heating (on full blast during my December 2013 stop), motion controlled lights and a lecture hall. Upon arrival if the door appears shut just push it and enter; the hospitalero will arrive late in the afternoon to stamp your Credencial. Another favorite stop in an old school and hardly state of the art but very friendly is the Albergue San Roque in Corcubion. In the dark from their dorm windows when you see the lighthouse beacon at Finisterre shining out to sea it is magical.
MM
Rory you are correct in that you will be eligible for certificates in Fisterra and Muxia walking as you have set out. But as far as I am aware, you must walk to Santiago from Muxia via Fisterra in order to qualify for a C ompostella from the Pilgrims Office. I would check this out with the Pilgrims Office before you set out on your caminos.
Good luck.
I understand the 100 km rule... I've walked the Camino Frances before. Our next trip will cover at least 200 km:Rory, Compostellas are awarded to pilgrims 'arriving' in Santiago and to qualify you must walk at least 100k. See extract (and link to) below from the Pilgrims Office webpage. The direct return from Muxia is only 88km. The walk to Muxia via Fisterra is beautiful and well worth the effort: the return via Fisterra can only be as good if not better.
Greetings from the Pilgrims' Office. The route from Finisterre via Muxia to Santiago (and Muxia - Finisterre - Santiago) is a recognised camino route increasingly being used by pilgrims to Santiago. As the route is more than 100 kms pilgrims using this way qualify for the Compostela.
Thank you, John! You are my hero! It's always good to hear "straight from the source." Now we don't need to worry about reversing our route, etc... Thanks again John, and all who offered advice!Hola
Greetings from the Pilgrims' Office. The route from Finisterre via Muxia to Santiago (and Muxia - Finisterre - Santiago) is a recognised camino route increasingly being used by pilgrims to Santiago. As the route is more than 100 kms pilgrims using this way qualify for the Compostela.
Buen Camino
John
The albergue in Logoso is one of the very best I stayed in over my whole Camino from St Jean P de P in France. They treated me like family and the mum had cooked a lovely cake and gave me a piece of it. Real sheets and towels, too! The Albergue Cabo da Vila in Fisterre is magical. The walk is worth it even just to stay in these two.Hi, Rory,
Sounds like a nice camino, and I think you will see more and more pilgrims who are walking back to Santiago from Finisterre/Muxia, it seems to have become quite popular.
Just a couple of comments. I haven't walked the circle, but I have walked both Santiago-Fisterre-Muxia and Santiago Muxia-Fisterre.
If going from Fisterre to Muxia, make sure to get a stamp in between. The only places are bar in Lires, or on the beach at Lires and maybe one other place. The hospitalero in Muxia is very persnickety about this.
You can also "even" out some of the stages by staying in Vilaserio instead of Negreira. Nice private albergue there and a public one that is reported to be basic but fine. There are also a couple more new places between Vilaserio and Olveiroa, but I haven't stayed in any of them.
Worth a stop -- the albergue in Dumbria is one of a kind, a massive modern structure built by the owner of Zara stores and sitting generally unused. Small rooms, good kitchen, adjacent to the polideportivo with internet and computers. When I walked Santiago-Muxia-Fisterre, I walked Santiago-Vilaserio-Dumbria-Muxia and I thought it was a very good way to break up the distances.
Buen camino, Laurie
Casa Rural half way from Muxia or Finisterre if accommodation .
You are in Gods country when on the coast Rory ..................so take your time and enjoy.
Dare you to walk north to L'Coruna..lol
Buen Camino David
I'm not sure that the "rule" is actually enforceable, but there seems little else they can do to ensure some people actually walk from Sarria. I spent weeks travelling in Spain after my Camino, and was told some interesting but perhaps unsurprising things. First, possession of a Compostela is seen as an aid to getting a job. Second cheating is widespread. In Granada I saw a notice from a bus company on a public noticeboard offering a bus trip for the Sarria/Santiago leg, pre-booked accommodation, no walking, appropriate stamps and the virtual guarantee of a Compostela at the end. One of the ladies I crossed paths with on the walk told me that she had occasioned upon a busload of pilgrims, who would be dropped off a little way outside a village, walk in and get their stamps, and be picked up just beyond. Spanish people told me private parties do the same sort of thing by car. Not quite sure what can be done about this or even whether it's wrong. In medieval times this was a trade route and some pilgrims probably would have hitched a ride on horse or oxen carts etc whenever they could, also the Camino is up to the individual, and not a cause to sit in judgement on what others choose to do.Rory, Compostellas are awarded to pilgrims 'arriving' in Santiago and to qualify you must walk at least 100k. See extract (and link to) below from the Pilgrims Office webpage. The direct return from Muxia is only 88km. The walk to Muxia via Fisterra is beautiful and well worth the effort: the return via Fisterra can only be as good if not better.
Therefore the Cathedral of Santiago decided that to gain a Compostela a pilgrim had to provide evidence on a credencial that they had walked or travelled on horseback at least the last 100kms of their journey to Santiago and, if travelling by bicycle, the last 200kms. That rule still stands today. (http://peregrinossantiago.es/eng/pilgrimage/the-compostela/)
Buen Camino.
S.
I'm not sure that the "rule" is actually enforceable, but there seems little else they can do to ensure some people actually walk from Sarria. I spent weeks travelling in Spain after my Camino, and was told some interesting but perhaps unsurprising things. First, possession of a Compostela is seen as an aid to getting a job. Second cheating is widespread. In Granada I saw a notice from a bus company on a public noticeboard offering a bus trip for the Sarria/Santiago leg, pre-booked accommodation, no walking, appropriate stamps and the virtual guarantee of a Compostela at the end. One of the ladies I crossed paths with on the walk told me that she had occasioned upon a busload of pilgrims, who would be dropped off a little way outside a village, walk in and get their stamps, and be picked up just beyond. Spanish people told me private parties do the same sort of thing by car. Not quite sure what can be done about this or even whether it's wrong. In medieval times this was a trade route and some pilgrims probably would have hitched a ride on horse or oxen carts etc whenever they could, also the Camino is up to the individual, and not a cause to sit in judgement on what others choose to do.
My last six days into Santiago I splodged through rain and mud, arriving at 9am after spending the previous night in a hostal in Labacolla trying to dry out (useless as it rained the next morning, too). I arrived filthy, soaked through, and very smelly. However there seemed numbers of other pilgrims who claimed to have walked in the same morning who seemed to be sporting the latest in new hiking gear, not a spot of rain or mud even on their shoes and no heel wear (I completely wore out two pairs of trekking boots on my walk). There must be a very good wilderness outfitters just before the Pilgrim Office.
It must make it extremely difficult for those who enforce the "rules" but with the increasing commercialisation creeping into practically every type of activity these days I guess we will just have to learn to live with it and make sure our own consciences are clear.
De Colores
John
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