Hello Wynde,
My name is Claudine and I am from California. I am also middle aged, traveled the world, going west.... yep, also to India, Afghanistan, Cambodia, Bali, Iran, Middle East and finally arriving in Europe in the spring of 1970. I had many wonderful quieter years raising two sons and we managed to travel quite a bit. On April 28. 2008, I left Porto and arrived (as planned/hoped) in Santiago on May 11 (Mother's Day in America). I chose the coastal route to Vila do Conde for my first day of walking. My journey was rich, challenging, safe, quiet, spirited, spiritual, connected, friendly....and I could go on and on! I walked six days in Portugal and six days in Spain, taking one day to rest, which was 13 days overall. This was a fairly ambitious schedule and fairly consistent with John
Brierly's guide which I found very helpful. I went alone and by foot as he recommended and I never felt alone. I met mostly German Pilgrims...lovely people, fun and intuitive AND they had a great and more updated guide book!
You will not need to sleep under the stars unless you choose to do so as there were Pilgrim accommodations along the Camino Portuguese or inexpensive hotels. I found the updates on the internet to be accurate and was able to determine if and where I might need a hotel. The refugios were not full and I always found a bed when using Pilgrim facilities.
I can't say enough for the wonderful journey you are undertaking. It is rich in culture, history, topography and friendship. I plan on walking the Via la Plata next (as I do not like crowds) but have not firmed up my dates, maybe fall of 2009 or spring of 2010.
Buen Camino!
Claudine