Another itinerary: small section Le Puy - Conques

[Amy Mello]

Starting what is hopefully a multi-year effort to walk the camino from Le Puy. I have been having fun on Godesalco site and thought I'd share the results in case there is any feedback, especially since I hope to book at least the first 3-4 nights lodging soon.

I know there are many great resources for gites but I'd appreciate advice there, as well. (I'll be traveling with my spouse and when affordable we prefer private rooms, but not at any expense.)

I have a strict time limit to reach Conques (in fact, we fly from Conques to Paris the evening of my last day) so I don't have much flexibilty other than adjusting where we stop, and I'm especially thinking about Sunday/Monday stops where food might be available.

Itinerary - leaving from Le Puy on June 8:
Wed - Le Puy en Velay to Saint Privat D'Allier (24.3km)
Thurs - Saint Private to Saugues (19km)
Fri - Saugues - Les Faux (26.5km)
Sat - Les Faux - Aumont-Aubrac (21.4km)
Sunday - Aumont Aubrac - Nasbinals (25km)
Monday - Nasbinals - Saint Chely d'Aubrac (20km)
Tuesday - Saint Chely d'Aubrac - Espalion (23.7km)
Wednesday - Espalion - Estaing (12.2km)
Thursday - Estaing - Espeyrac (22.3km)
Friday - Espeyrac - Conques (12.2km) - and fly back to Paris that evening

Also, we have a tiny bit of experience as we walked 6 days of the Portuguese before a family death required an emergency flight home last year. (One of many personal camino miracles was that airline staff made the return possible). So I know that I can do 20-mile days on flat ground but still nervous about the elevation gains. Of course I have now moved to Colorado so I should have time to train.

The forum has been wonderful and given me strong confidence to try this. So thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Deleted member 3000]

So I know that I can do 20-mile days on flat ground

There is very little of that on the first part of the Chemin du Puy!!

we prefer private rooms, but not at any expense

I met a couple who were staying in castles along the route (I doubt that it meets the "not at any expense" criteria, though). They would arrive in a village, and either take a taxi or have the castle pick them up for their evening accommodations, then return to the route in the morning.

Sunday/Monday stops where food might be available

You will be able to find something, but you may have to adjust your meal schedule. In Saint-Come-d'Olt the last meal service was an afternoon supper on Sunday. And you may end up with "bar food" rather than a restaurant, which often is quite good.

 

[Kitsambler]

...I'd appreciate advice ...

As the Army says, "No plan survives first contact with the enemy."

What you have laid out is quite demanding, as the river gorges are steep and the French don't build switchbacks. Your plan can be accomplished - IF you are very fit, train very hard, keep your pack weight very light, have well-tested equipment and encounter no unforeseen challenges. By training hard, I mean lots of mountain hiking - preferably several multi-day 8-10 mile excursions as well as several hours of walking every day with a pack and hills.

When you make reservations, make sure to ask about food availability and don't hesitate to ask the gite host to prepare a pique-nique lunch for you if necessary (she'll be at the grocery anyhow).

 

[Richard P]

Hello Amy
I think your plan is do-able if as Kitsambler says "your are fit". I walked that section last May in 7 days but had already done 350 km by the time I reached Le Puy. By June the weather "should" be good. I just looked in my journal and on May 21 between Quatre Chemin and Aubrac it snowed as heavily as I have ever experienced and the temp was -4 C. Bright and sunny though.
Because of the usual problem of champion snorers I stayed in either small hotels or in gites where I could get a private room and I see none cost more than 30 Euros, which I thought was fair.
The path down into Congues is an experience and I spent half the time removing ankle twister rocks to the ancient stone walls either side. I asked at the tourist information office in town why they don't incorporate switchbacks and was told "that is how the ancient path was" so there. Then the woman said that if I wanted to spend time working on the path, that was fine.
Again like Kitsambler comments on food, I would buy either a sub sandwich the night before or the makings if I knew the shops would be closed the next morning.
The chemin passes through some very beautiful country. Stop and enjoy it often.
bon chemin

 

[AlwynWellington]

still nervous about the elevation gains

Me too: we should create a club ...

We are all different, so my "training" may not apply to you. My method is the brute force one of just going out and doing as many hill as often as I can. Partly its getting a level of fitness. For me its also "training" my head, by frequent repetition creating familiarity, that hills are not a problem. I've posted several times recently: do, say, 700 metres of elevation before lunch. With your pack full of all your gear on your back.

I hope this helps.

Ultreia (keep striving)
Kia kaha (be brave / strong)
Bon chemin (travel well)

PS: I start from Le Puy around 5 April and I like your stages. I hope to step up the daily kms after about a week.

 

[Glenshiro]

Starting what is hopefully a multi-year effort to walk the camino from Le Puy. I have been having fun on Godesalco site and thought I'd share the results in case there is any feedback, especially since I hope to book at least the first 3-4 nights lodging soon.

I know there are many great resources for gites but I'd appreciate advice there, as well. (I'll be traveling with my spouse and when affordable we prefer private rooms, but not at any expense.)

I have a strict time limit to reach Conques (in fact, we fly from Conques to Paris the evening of my last day) so I don't have much flexibilty other than adjusting where we stop, and I'm especially thinking about Sunday/Monday stops where food might be available.

Itinerary - leaving from Le Puy on June 8:
Wed - Le Puy en Velay to Saint Privat D'Allier (24.3km)
Thurs - Saint Private to Saugues (19km)
Fri - Saugues - Les Faux (26.5km)
Sat - Les Faux - Aumont-Aubrac (21.4km)
Sunday - Aumont Aubrac - Nasbinals (25km)
Monday - Nasbinals - Saint Chely d'Aubrac (20km)
Tuesday - Saint Chely d'Aubrac - Espalion (23.7km)
Wednesday - Espalion - Estaing (12.2km)
Thursday - Estaing - Espeyrac (22.3km)
Friday - Espeyrac - Conques (12.2km) - and fly back to Paris that evening

Also, we have a tiny bit of experience as we walked 6 days of the Portuguese before a family death required an emergency flight home last year. (One of many personal camino miracles was that airline staff made the return possible). So I know that I can do 20-mile days on flat ground but still nervous about the elevation gains. Of course I have now moved to Colorado so I should have time to train.

The forum has been wonderful and given me strong confidence to try this. So thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Glenshiro]

Starting what is hopefully a multi-year effort to walk the camino from Le Puy. I have been having fun on Godesalco site and thought I'd share the results in case there is any feedback, especially since I hope to book at least the first 3-4 nights lodging soon.

I know there are many great resources for gites but I'd appreciate advice there, as well. (I'll be traveling with my spouse and when affordable we prefer private rooms, but not at any expense.)

I have a strict time limit to reach Conques (in fact, we fly from Conques to Paris the evening of my last day) so I don't have much flexibilty other than adjusting where we stop, and I'm especially thinking about Sunday/Monday stops where food might be available.

Itinerary - leaving from Le Puy on June 8:
Wed - Le Puy en Velay to Saint Privat D'Allier (24.3km)
Thurs - Saint Private to Saugues (19km)
Fri - Saugues - Les Faux (26.5km)
Sat - Les Faux - Aumont-Aubrac (21.4km)
Sunday - Aumont Aubrac - Nasbinals (25km)
Monday - Nasbinals - Saint Chely d'Aubrac (20km)
Tuesday - Saint Chely d'Aubrac - Espalion (23.7km)
Wednesday - Espalion - Estaing (12.2km)
Thursday - Estaing - Espeyrac (22.3km)
Friday - Espeyrac - Conques (12.2km) - and fly back to Paris that evening

Also, we have a tiny bit of experience as we walked 6 days of the Portuguese before a family death required an emergency flight home last year. (One of many personal camino miracles was that airline staff made the return possible). So I know that I can do 20-mile days on flat ground but still nervous about the elevation gains. Of course I have now moved to Colorado so I should have time to train.

The forum has been wonderful and given me strong confidence to try this. So thanks in advance for any advice.

Starting what is hopefully a multi-year effort to walk the camino from Le Puy. I have been having fun on Godesalco site and thought I'd share the results in case there is any feedback, especially since I hope to book at least the first 3-4 nights lodging soon.

I know there are many great resources for gites but I'd appreciate advice there, as well. (I'll be traveling with my spouse and when affordable we prefer private rooms, but not at any expense.)

I have a strict time limit to reach Conques (in fact, we fly from Conques to Paris the evening of my last day) so I don't have much flexibilty other than adjusting where we stop, and I'm especially thinking about Sunday/Monday stops where food might be available.

Itinerary - leaving from Le Puy on June 8:
Wed - Le Puy en Velay to Saint Privat D'Allier (24.3km)
Thurs - Saint Private to Saugues (19km)
Fri - Saugues - Les Faux (26.5km)
Sat - Les Faux - Aumont-Aubrac (21.4km)
Sunday - Aumont Aubrac - Nasbinals (25km)
Monday - Nasbinals - Saint Chely d'Aubrac (20km)
Tuesday - Saint Chely d'Aubrac - Espalion (23.7km)
Wednesday - Espalion - Estaing (12.2km)
Thursday - Estaing - Espeyrac (22.3km)
Friday - Espeyrac - Conques (12.2km) - and fly back to Paris that evening

Also, we have a tiny bit of experience as we walked 6 days of the Portuguese before a family death required an emergency flight home last year. (One of many personal camino miracles was that airline staff made the return possible). So I know that I can do 20-mile days on flat ground but still nervous about the elevation gains. Of course I have now moved to Colorado so I should have time to train.

The forum has been wonderful and given me strong confidence to try this. So thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[Glenshiro]

Hi, Amy,

Your itinerary is almost exactly the one I followed in 2012 - when I was 59 and not very fit! Yes, there are some stiff parts of the trail, particularly between Monistrol - sur - Allier and Saugues (you just climb and climb until you half expect to see a set of pearly gates) but it gets easier after that. I did Le Puy to Aumont-Aubrac in 4 days and it was tiring. The Aubrac plateau was a stroll after that and it's pretty much downhill to St Come d'Olt. There is another long, strenuous climb from Estaing to Golinhac, but very much worth it for the views. And Conques isbeautiful - be sure to catch the evening sevice at the cathedral. Didn't know there was an airport nearby!

I stayed in 2 star hotels almost everywhere - they vary a lot! I can recommend the Tour d'Argent in Nasbinals for its ambience and Les Coudercous in Chely d'Aubrac for cleanliness and food. (Actually, I've never had a bad meal on the Chemin.)

Bon Chemin.

 

[Amy Mello]

Thanks for all suggestions. Much appreciated!

I am not that fit yet, but some time to work on it. Hearing the message! Asking for lunches from hosts is great idea if stores wont be open. I find 30-40 euro reasonable for us personally if we can find private rooms for that much. We might not want spend that much every night, but that's much more affordable than I was expecting.

Also, the idea mentioned above that there might be taxi available in small villages or that others have found hotels willing to pick up is nice and may make me less nervous about booking ahead. I notice couple town (like Les Faux) are actually off the camino. And my first hotel night at 'Le clos des pierres rouges' was "purchased" by a family member as a gift but i notice with the confirmation email they sent me a map leading a couple km off the camino. I imagine that will feel very long after the end of 1st day.

Thanks again all!

 

[Canucks]

We stayed st Le Clos de Pierres Rouge on our first night. The walk is fine....although my knee was giving out on the downhill rocky stretch right before getting there.
When leaving the next day, get them to explain the shortcut to get back on track.
They have a really friendly huge dog!!
We stayed in many spectacular chambre d'hôtes along the way and it was really great. The only surprising thing about the first week or two of the Le Puy route was the difficulty.......only surprising in that we didn't research the heck out of it beforehand like we did with the Camino Frances. There were more than a few sjpdp to roncesvalles days!!

Curious.....how are you flying out of Conques to Paris? Just walking out of Conques was tough enough up that first hillside......not quite sure where they would hide an airport.

 

[Amy Mello]

Thanks Canucks. Will ask for shortcut and I enjoy dogs, so that's good.

We are flying from Rodez Airport - looks like about a 40 minute cab ride south of Conques, but the flights to Orly from Rodez were 69 euro a piece - overall I think its comparable to what we would have paid for trains and the flight get us to Paris in under an hour. Our time frame is so short its worth it to me to pay a little extra and make sure we dont miss our flight.

 

[mspath]

Amy Mello,

Conques is a small, special country hamlet often very busy/crowded with day tourists and pilgrims. Be sure to reserve your taxi in advance. Here is one firm recommended by the local tourist bureau.

Bon chemin and Bon voyage!