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These aren't on the specific caminos in the title of the thread, but I think my favourites are São Frutuoso on the Geira/Torres outside Braga and Wamba on the Madrid. I'm hoping to see Santa Maria de Lara near Burgos next spring if all goes well!Bumping this thread, because @Madrood has posed a question best answered by the likes of you who have seen lots of these churches in real life, rather than in photos: do you have any favorites?
(@peregrina2000, @Rebekah Scott, @jungleboy, and @alansykes , @Pelegrin ...)
Wamba does look amazing.Wamba
Oh! Grand idea. Now the challenge is remembering this golden nugget of information. Bookmarked.But if you do a little detour to Bendueños and stay at the beautiful albergue run by the wonderful Sandra, you might be lucky ang get to see inside the church next door, pictures 2 & 4 (head straight down the hill to the road next morning).
Can you backtrack from the San Salvador, or is that a bit long?The church San Salvador de Valdediós, on the way from Villaviciosa to Oviedo.
A bit long, much easier to simply walk the Primitivo: Valdedios is actually on the Primitivo (or one of two variants). The Visigoths ruled all of the Iberian peninsular after the Romans (apart from a brief rule by the Suevi), but were not completely christianised at first so had a fairly small window of time to build churches before the Moorish conquest, so they weren't necessarily destroyed - they simply weren't there in the first place. Asturias and Galicia were just a bit too remote and uninteresting for the Moors. The Visigoths therefore had another 300 years or so of church building in hand, and please let's not, for the sake of peace and sanity get caught up in when 'Romanesque' began. This explains why there are a lot more Visigoth era churches in NW Spain. There are others in the rest of Spain, and not all of those in Asturias and Galicia have survived - one of them is buried deep between a certain large cathedral built on top of it.Can you backtrack from the San Salvador, or is that a bit long?
It sounds like Oviedo is the centre of the Visigothic universe now, only because much was destroyed in the years that followed the conquista. Santa Maria de Melque near Toledo is one of the more southerly outliers, and looks remarkable. Has anyone been there?
one of them is buried deep between a certain large cathedral built on top of it.
I think Santa Catarina, mainly because of personal associations: we were just so lucky to be there when the caretaker turned up and the site is very beautiful. San Julián just outside Oviedo is also remarkable because of the internal decorations that have survived.
Gosh I wonder where that is.
Thank you for the correction and clarification, @dick bird. I really appreciate it.
Meanwhile...have you a favorite?
I was in Bendueños about five years ago. Ender and about four of his buddies came for lunch, and afterwards Sandra took us into the church. The paintings were almost impossible to see. One of the group, can’t remember who, said, wow this is a site that needs some government restoration funding. He promised to make the application, and it looks like he did. The paintings are so unusual because they depict black indigenous individuals dressed “exotically.” Maybe one of the priests had a connection with the Caribbean (Cuba sprang to the mind of Ender’s friend). I confirmed on google that yes indeed they did get some funding to restore the paintings.Would have to be Santa Cristina, pictures 1 & 2, 9th century and opened up at 11 am promptly every day. It is just before you get to La Cobertoria on the Salvador. But if you do a little detour to Bendueños and stay at the beautiful albergue run by the wonderful Sandra, you might be lucky ang get to see inside the church next door, pictures 2 & 4 (head straight down the hill to the road next morning).
View attachment 110413View attachment 110414
I had to go back and look at all the candidates. So hard to choose, but I saw that my decision in July 2020 was that Santa Cristina and Valdediós were my two favorites. That means I agree with @dick bird and @AJGuillaume, so I am in pretty good company.Bumping this thread, because @Madrood has posed a question best answered by the likes of you who have seen lots of these churches in real life, rather than in photos: do you have any favorites?
(@peregrina2000, @Rebekah Scott, @jungleboy, and @alansykes , @Pelegrin ...)
And they've done a very good job of it, I have to say. I noticed the African figures. There could be all kinds of explanations for this. Spain imported large numbers of slaves into all of its American colonies and this continued after liberation from Spain. Spain also had some involvement in Africa, though not so much under the terms of the Treaty of Tordesillas. By the way, do you have any news of Sandra? How is she? She was so kind and welcoming. We had a feeling she may have been struggling a little, or is that just an impression?I was in Bendueños about five years ago. Ender and about four of his buddies came for lunch, and afterwards Sandra took us into the church. The paintings were almost impossible to see. One of the group, can’t remember who, said, wow this is a site that needs some government restoration funding. He promised to make the application, and it looks like he did. The paintings are so unusual because they depict black indigenous individuals dressed “exotically.” Maybe one of the priests had a connection with the Caribbean (Cuba sprang to the mind of Ender’s friend). I confirmed on google that yes indeed they did get some funding to restore the paintings.
Finaliza la campaña de restauración de las pinturas de Bendueños, en Lena | El Comercio: Diario de Asturias
El restaurador Carlos Nodal afirma que los frescos estaban en riesgo de «desaparecer» y son precisas más actuaciones para protegerloswww.elcomercio.es
Just this morning I got a message from someone who stayed there last night. She brought them up a pot of food and did not stay. He said she was very friendly, but I didn’t get the sense that she was really engaged like she had been when I was there. But who knows, it is good the albergue is open, and I think peregrinos should make an effort to stay there if it fits in their Salvador stages!By the way, do you have any news of Sandra? How is she? She was so kind and welcoming. We had a feeling she may have been struggling a little, or is that just an impression?
This is the same church from a different angle but in not such nice weather. As you say, near enough to the Primitivo to count. 9th century with additions? Unfortunately locked up, like nearly all the churches we pass.I was going through photos of our walk 3 years ago today, and came across this church, which is in Priesca, before arriving in Villaviciosa, on the Norte. Not quite on the Primitivo, yet, but not far.
View attachment 110514
My notes on the day tell me that somehow I found out that the lady at number 3 across the street has the keys. I think it might have been from the Buen Camino app, and checking the new version, I see that there is a note that Alicia is the name of the lady.Unfortunately locked up, like nearly all the churches we pass.
The spelling isn’t quite right but it looks similar to San Geronimo, who if Wikipedia is to be trusted was an Algerian converted to Christianity and martyred by the Moors in Algiers in 1569; his story was recorded by a Spanish Benedictine monk. That would explain the costumes and race but this saint looks too old to be him. Maybe there was some conflation with a better known (and older) St Jerome.And they've done a very good job of it, I have to say. I noticed the African figures. There could be all kinds of explanations for this. Spain imported large numbers of slaves into all of its American colonies and this continued after liberation from Spain. Spain also had some involvement in Africa, though not so much under the terms of the Treaty of Tordesillas. By the way, do you have any news of Sandra? How is she? She was so kind and welcoming. We had a feeling she may have been struggling a little, or is that just an impression?
View attachment 110486
It looks really special - those capitals with palm leaves are unique and very lovely.And this is what it looks like inside:
Asking that question is like waving a red flag in front of a bull.I have walked to most, and have visited a couple of the off-camino ones by car. IMHO, there is nothing like sitting inside one of these beautiful, irregularly shaped ancient works of love and devotion to get the reflective juices flowing — not that I think great thoughts, but it is such a peaceful place to think about the meaning of it all.
Primitivo — I have never thought of it this way, but in terms of ancient churches, I guess the Primitivo wins hands down. And if you walk into Oviedo from the Norte to start the Primitivo, you can add Valdediós to your itinerary, and it is truly one of the most beautiful. It is a well marked slight off-camino walk from Villaviciosa and on the way to Pola de Siero. So totally worth it.
For me personally, if I were pressed for time in Oviedo, the Naranco sites are far more beautiful (though much more heavily touristed) than San Julián de los Prados. It is the biggest, but its size makes it less human, and less peaceful, I think.
The last time I walked the Primitivo, I thought about trying to find my way to San Pedro de Nora, but in the end didn’t.
Vdlp — Santa Lucía de Trampal is gorgeous. @alansykes‘s detour GPS in between Aljucén and Alcuéscar is all you need. It’s in a beautiful rural setting, so you can enjoy the outside from many angles. The inside has been re-done and there is a visitors’ center with many informational panels, but the church retains the essential simplicity.
Salvador — Santa Cristina de Lena is about 200 m off the Camino after Campomanes, and I cannot imagine how anyone walking the Salvador could bear to miss it. And the environs are incredibly pastoral and peaceful.
Vadiniense (or Francés)— OMG, San Miguel de la Escalada. From Gradefes to Mansilla de las Mulas on the Vadiniense, you pass right by. But it is only about 15 km from Mansilla de las Mulas, and it would be worth moving heaven and earth to get there. In fact, this was how I met Rebekah. Way back years ago, I posted on the forum about wanting to visit San Miguel from León and wondering about transportation. Reb answered that she would pick me up and take me there! She even brought a copy of the beautiful Beatus that was produced there for me to look at. Totally totally worth it. I visited it again on the Vadiniense.
Santa Comba de Bande — I don’t think this is near any camino (at least not any that I know of), but I once spent a glorious weekend in Galicia in that area and took the short drive from Celanova (a very pretty Galician town) to visit the church. And ruins of a Roman fort along the way. Celanova has its own monuments to visit, too!
Thank you so much for the heads up. I think this is probably one of those places where you have to find the señora with the keys. But I would call ahead of time.
Teléfonos de Información: Guías, Nuria 620 923 644. Ayuntamiento de Tricio 941 36 10 57.
So, just to sum it all up with my opinions — of all of these, if you are looking for quiet, contemplative spots, where you will be overwhelmed by the humbling simplicity, I would recommend Valdediós and Santa Cristina de Lena as my “top two.”
Sounds amazing, I’ve added it to my ‘Spain churches’ list!Yesterday myself and another hospitalera from the municipal albergue in Nájera took the three km walk to Tricio to see La Basilica de Santa Maria de Arcos
But wait, there's more: https://www.arteguias.com/basilica/santamariaarcostricio.htmThank you so much for this link @Albertagirl.
Here is more information:
SANTA MARÍA DE LOS ARCOS - Turismo Prerrománico
Basílica de tres naves de época visigoda que se conserva en muy buen estado.www.turismo-prerromanico.com
I also found this of similar age not so much farther away:
Rotonda - Maryrium (Santa Coloma, La Rioja, España)
Ficha y descripción del Maryriun, 401-500 (Santa Coloma, La Rioja, España). Planta: Cuadrada. Estilo: Paleocristianoplantacentral.wixsite.com
Much, much more!But wait, there's more: https://www.arteguias.com/basilica/santamariaarcostricio.htm
I just discovered this about Valdedios:The church San Salvador de Valdediós, on the way from Villaviciosa to Oviedo.View attachment 110415
It's pretty amazing, but makes a lot of sense.according to Martínez-Pinna, the study of the fate of practically all the relics that at the time were in the hands of the Visigoths “led me to the conviction that that they had been moved north to seek shelter in the Asturian mountains, and more specifically in the majestic Monsacro ”.
Mostly thanks to @mspath for having done the map in the first place.Thank you so much @VNwalking.
Wonderful idea. I'd love to see your impressions and some photos here if you have the chance.I shall take a week off from walking the Salvador/Primitivo to wander around Oviedo gorging myself on beauty, wisdom, and history- I'm leaving on camino in a few days.
aw maaaan, I'm supposed to be working!Looking around online for some information about a virtual Camino de las Asturias, I stumbled across this beautiful article that describes some of the oldest churches in Spain, in detail and with photographs.
The Ancient Churches of Spain
I would like to call attention to some of the ancient churches of Western Europe which predate the Great Schism. These churches offer a glimpse of Western Orthodoxy as it once was, and as such, off…orthodoxartsjournal.org
Then, as one does, I went down a deep rabbit hole, reading of the few churches that remain from the time before the Conquista. It is fascinating, and tantalizing. These churches are essentially Byzantine, late Roman - called Visigothic as a nod to the Visigoths, the people who had come to rule after the last remnants of the Roman Empire unraveled in Iberia.
Here are some of the more significant rabbit holes, for your enjoyment:
This shows the various churches in Asturias that are recognized by UNESCO, a surprising number.
Monuments of Oviedo and the Kingdom of the Asturias
In the 9th century the flame of Christianity was kept alive in the Iberian peninsula in the tiny Kingdom of the Asturias. Here an innovative pre-Romanesque architectural style was created that was to play a ...whc.unesco.org
These other two sites are more general:
Culture in Asturias. Asturian pre-Romanesque art.
Pre-Romanesque Art came about with the Asturian Monarchy beginning in the 9th century. Nowadays, some examples of this unique art are still preserved.www.turismoasturias.es
The churches the Visigoth kings built predate the Camino itself and are our windows into a deep past, very precious links to ages that we can only glimse from afar. Only a handful of Visigothic churches are left in Spain — most were lost in the Conquista or to later renovations. Much of what remains are in the far North., and many have UNESCO recognition. They are beautiful in a totally different way than we are used to seeing with Romanesque and Gothic architecture.
In Asturias, and around Oviedo in particular, you could easily spend a day or two visiting the several Visigthic churches. So heads-up if you are walking the Primativo or San Salvador. At the very least do not miss to visit San Julian in Oviedo; the Wikipedia article says this:
View attachment 79314
From http://www.spainisculture.com/en/monumentos/asturias/iglesia_de_san_julian_de_los_prados.html
San Tirso is also central, right beside the Cathedral of Oviedo.
About a km North of Oviedo is Santa Maria del Naranco (Left, below), built as a palace in 848, and repurposed later to be used as a church. Santa Cristina de Lena (Right below), about 25 km south of Oviedo and a very short way off the Camino San Salvador, was built adjacent to the Roman road joining the Messta with Asturias. If you walk right by you are missing a jewel!
View attachment 79313 View attachment 79312
L: From https://www.turismoasturias.es/docu...b-305c-4bfc-b6ac-a1687fb2af4a?t=1389204123847
R: From https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipe..._de_Lena.jpg/330px-Santa_Cristina_de_Lena.jpg
The UNESCO report highlights the importance of the remarkable preservation of two of these buildings:
Asturias has most but not all of these churches.
A few days walk from Burgos, on the Camino San Olav, is Santa Maria de Lara. It is a tantalizing fragment of the original structure, with beautiful very natural carvings visible on the outside. The inside is also said to be special but it was closed when I went there a good Friday.
View media item 4874
Santa Lucía del Trampal is much farther to the south on the VdlP, a short detour between Aljucen and Alcuéscar.
If there is one lesson from this rabbit hole, it is the benefit of reading a bit before heading off on any camino. It would be all too easy to waltz right past these remarkable ghosts of the past, oblivious to their importance.
Buen camino when we can, amigx!
and then I scrolled up from my last post.....Here's a link I just stumbled across, that would have saved us a ton of work:
Anyone headed out soon might be interested in the extensive list and links.Arte prerrománico
Arte prerrománico en el ámbito geográfico del condado de Castillawww.condadodecastilla.es
Edit quite a while later: Click on the link at your own risk - it is a huge rabbit hole! Don't say I didn't' warn you.
Sorryyyy!aw maaaan, I'm supposed to be working!
You were right. It's almost five in the morning and I'm still hereHere's a link I just stumbled across, that would have saved us a ton of work:
Anyone headed out soon might be interested in the extensive list and links.Arte prerrománico
Arte prerrománico en el ámbito geográfico del condado de Castillawww.condadodecastilla.es
Edit quite a while later: Click on the link at your own risk - it is a huge rabbit hole! Don't say I didn't' warn you.
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