Alternative paths between Villafranca & O’Cebreiro (Dragonte

[GunnarW]

Between Villafranca del Bierzo and O’Cebreiro, there are 2 alternative paths (page 227 in the John Brierley guide edition 2011, also on the back cover). The main path follows the N-IV. There is an option to follow the direction Pradela and join the N-IV again in Trabadelo. Another option is via Dragonte-Vilar de Corales-Vilasinde and to join the N-IV at Herrerías.
Did anyone try one of the alternative roads? Is the path through Dragonte as difficult as SJPD-Roncesvalles? Is it beautiful? I’m curious?
Gunnar W
Belgium

 

[Deleted member 3000]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca del Bierzo and O’Cebre

A hard climb and good views from the main path. The road is flatter, and almost exclusively hard paving. It does have some great places to stop for food and coffee! I have not done the route to the left.

See the preferred route here:

http://maps.peterrobins.co.uk/google/151.html

Click the "+" in the upper right, and select the terrain view. You can see the topography. You can see the terrain, but not the route, for the alternative to the left of the highway.

 

[jpflavin1]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca del Bierzo and O’Cebre

Gunnar W:

The alternate route to Trabadelo is not special. That said, it keeps you off the main road and away from the traffic. It basically winds through some farms and then follows a canal up to Trabeadelo.

We took the path off the road and up to La Faba. It was a steep winding trail through a tunnel of trees. Very nice and tranquil climb. La Faba was one of my favorite Albergues along the Camino.

I have never taken the Dragonte route. I plan to try it this coming Spring. There is a recent blog by a young women "Travel and Pretty Things" in which she describes her trip on the Dragonte route. It is also described in my Brierley book on page 231.

Ultreya,
Joe

 

[jirit]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca del Bierzo and O’Cebre

Between Villafranca del Bierzo and O’Cebreiro, there are 2 alternative paths (page 227 in the John Brierley guide edition 2011, also on the back cover). The main path follows the N-IV. There is an option to follow the direction Pradela and join the N-IV again in Trabadelo. Another option is via Dragonte-Vilar de Corales-Vilasinde and to join the N-IV at Herrerías.
Did anyone try one of the alternative roads? Is the path through Dragonte as difficult as SJPD-Roncesvalles? Is it beautiful? I’m curious?
Gunnar W
Belgium

I took the route to the right in the direction of Pradela, dropping back down the hill to arrive back at Trabedelo. Generally it is nice route especially if the sky is clear and I would recommend this over the original road route.

Two guys I know and had been walking with from time to time took the route to the left via Deagonte. They described it as challenging, remote but beautiful and special. From the locals that they met along the way, very people have taken this route, so it is more like what the camino was 20 years ago. However keep in mind that they left Villafranca early in the morning but did not arrive in O’Cebreiro until nearly 6.00 pm that day. I think their guidebooks (my old guidebook does not show this route) indicated that the route was nearly 35 km in length over very hilly terrain.

I too decided to stay in LaFaba and I too agree it is a special place.

Regards

 

[GunnarW]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Thanks all for the tips. I learnt that the Dragonte track was the original path. For those who still have an old edition: the distance between Villafranca del Bierzo and O’Cebreiro passing Dragonte, Vilar de Corales, San Fiz de Seo and Vilasinde is 26,1km+8,3km = 34,4km. It should be something like 6,6 km longer than the path following the N-IV.

The Dragonte track contains 3 hills, each at a height of +/- 1000m. The difference in height is average 250m. Studying the map: I think the most difficult part for losing the track is between Vilar de Corales and San Fiz de Seo because there are 3 side tracks following the guide.

I should start my camino in SJPdP on the 7th of September and should normally arrive in Villafranca +/- one month later. If the weather conditions are good and my conditions also, I will certainly choose the Dragonte experience.

 

[grayland]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Gunnar...
It would be great if you were able to take a few notes and then post your personal observations and experiences when you return.

 

[GunnarW]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Mr. Grayland,
I will certainly do. I have something original in my head in stead of a blog,... But first I have to survive the camino.

 

[grayland]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Assuming that survival is a good possibility :wink: ....we will look forward to your observations when you return.

 

[alipilgrim]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

I took the Pradela route in late May. It has a very very steep (but short) start, then a lovely walk along the mountain ridge before entering a forest of oaks(?). The way-marking is not good from here on, and as Brierley mentions, there are many conflicting yellow arrows painted to direct traffic to a cafe a kilometer or two off the route. I was able to find my way by trying to discern where people had walked before me (can't quite call it a 'path'). Also, what goes up, must come down so there's a fairly steep descent back down to the road route.

Overall I really enjoyed it, especially as I was able to time it for sunrise just as I reached the highest point, however it does make for a very tiring day if you go all the way to O'Cebreiro.

 

[GunnarW]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

I did the Dragonte route for 2/3 on my own. That was THE REAL camino experience.
Some details.
It was 10:00 when I arrived in VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO because I slept in CACABELOS. A bit too late to start but too soon to stay in VILLAFRANCA.
So just before the tunnel of N-VI, I took direction CORULLON and then DRAGONTE.
I arrived at DRAGONTE 90 minutes later. Some old men came out of their houses and I tried to speak with them. Hard to understand because my Spanish is not top and they didn t pronounce very well. But anyway we could communicate a bit.
The Brierley guide was not so clear how to proceed to MORAL DE VALCARCE. Anyway, just follow the road. At the intersection after the Cantera, stay right on the main track. Over the mountain, villages will appear in the valley. The one close to you is MORAL DE VALCARCE. Just continue a few 100 meters and take right the concrete road down to the village. At the entrance of the village, 4 big quite dangerous dogs came to me, I didn t move and after a while they stop barking.
I asked a girl to sign my credencial because stamps are not existing there. (Thank you Sonia). A man explained to me how to continue. I first had a sandwich on a bench on a small place where again a big dog came out and started barking.
Just continue the main track, just follow the tire tracks from a 4x4. A small river called ORROLLO will take over the road for 100m. Also the beginning of climbing the second hill. After a while in the forrest, there was an intersection with four roads, all going up. I took the middle one. 100m further again an intersection with 2 possibilities. I took the right one and suddenly a small church appeared in the middle of nowhere. One of the clocks had a chain that could be pulled. It was 14:59 so I hit the bell 3 times.

 

[GunnarW]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

part2
I continue the road and after 100m I arrived at VILAR DE CORALES. Some young farmers heard my "3 o clock", Israel signed my credencial and I could join their barbecue. That was nice. They gave me a lot of meat and much wine. I thanked them a lot.
In the center of VILAR DE CORALES, I noticed finally the first green signpost CAMINO DE LOS FRANCESES. Now, it was easy to continue the road, it was all marked.
After a while, I noticed the village SAN FIZ DE SEO in the valley. The road down was really hard because the path was overgrown. Small trees were growing on the path. It was 17:00 when I arrived just before SAN FIZ DE SEO. It was too late to start the third hill. So I took the concrete road direction N-IV and slept in the big hotel VALCARCE. Only 30€ for a nice room.

 

[unadara]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

We walked this route 7th Oct. We wanted to get to O'Cebreiro so left Villafranca very early. Walking this road in the dark is not pleasant and not to be recommended!. We met a pilgrim in Trabelado ? who had walked the road the previous evening and said it was lovely as it was along the riverside all the way. Our walk after this was fabulous, sunny, clear and wonderful scenery. However at O Ceb we met very cold winds, and mist came down. As we had got there early we had little to do except eat (wonderful Menu ) and try to sleep! very big cold hostel. It was the only day out of 31 we had to put on jackets.
A french friend said he also walked the road later the same day as the mist was on Pradela and he would have seen nothing.
BUT I would recommend to anyone NOT to stay in O CEB..another friend stayed in the last hostel before O Ceb and walked through the next day.
La Faba would have been a good place to stay. I wouldn't like to have ended up in the Hotel like Gunnar did.
Hope this gives another insight.

 

[jujuaway]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

It's funny how different we all are!
I overnighted at o,cebreiro on 6th October this year, had the best walk up to the summit, brilliant views, i just had to keep stopping and looking and enjoying the vista, felt so good i stopped and had a good dance on the track to celebrate the beauty!!
Arrived late afternoon and indeed the weather closed in early evening. The next morning, left in the dark (7ish), with mist every where and the wind whipping all around.... the only day i wore my gortex!! so magical.... I agree the food is good in o'cebreiro, those three sisters sure can cook!! plus the church there is really quite special. This whole walk between Villafranca del bierzo and o'cebriero and then the next days walk to samos, were my all time favourites in addition to the walk over the Pyrenees. by for now juju

 

[Abbeydore]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

I did the Dragonte route for 2/3 on my own. That was THE REAL camino experience.
Some details.
It was 10:00 when I arrived in VILLAFRANCA DEL BIERZO because I slept in ACEBO. A bit too late to start but too soon to stay in VILLAFRANCA.
So just before the tunnel of N-VI, I took direction CORULLON and then DRAGONTE.
I arrived at DRAGONTE 90 minutes later. Some old men came out of their houses and I tried to speak with them. Hard to understand because my Spanish is not top and they didn t pronounce very well. But anyway we could communicate a bit.
The Brierley guide was not so clear how to proceed to MORAL DE VALCARCE. Anyway, just follow the road. At the intersection after the Cantera, stay right on the main track. Over the mountain, villages will appear in the valley. The one close to you is MORAL DE VALCARCE. Just continue a few 100 meters and take right the concrete road down to the village. At the entrance of the village, 4 big quite dangerous dogs came to me, I didn t move and after a while they stop barking.
I asked a girl to sign my credencial because stamps are not existing there. (Thank you Sonia). A man explained to me how to continue. I first had a sandwich on a bench on a small place where again a big dog came out and started barking.
Just continue the main track, just follow the tire tracks from a 4x4. A small river called ORROLLO will take over the road for 100m. Also the beginning of climbing the second hill. After a while in the forrest, there was an intersection with four roads, all going up. I took the middle one. 100m further again an intersection with 2 possibilities. I took the right one and suddenly a small church appeared in the middle of nowhere. One of the clocks had a chain that could be pulled. It was 14:59 so I hit the bell 3 times.

I want to do this route with my partner taking the normal route, It is only 3 monro's(Scottish Mountains over 3,000'/915m) afterall so should not be too bad, it's just keeping on 'track', hope I get to the church much earlier than 14.59 , & that the smells of my dog(@ home) don't encourage the local canines :evil: .
Have found this google map to be relatively helpful, @ least one can see some track & the terrain, maybe out of date too, like English ones. The way I read it one is basically trying to follow ridge(s) :lol:
http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=Dragont ... a=N&tab=wl
& I'm sure it was your 3pm barbie & extras that hindered your path.
http://maps.google.co.uk/maps?q=villa+d ... a=N&tab=wl
& was trying to find your church in Vilar de Corales, maybe someone can help.
No I'm not after a free barbeque, but would be great.
David

 

[GunnarW]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Hi Abbeydore,
In googlemaps it's with double "ll" and double "rr": Villar de Corrales . And they are right. In my credencial (I just checked), farmer "Israel" wrote it that way also.
You will find it easy: The isolated church is the building "at five o' clock" from the red A at the crossing of the three roads. From the church, I followed the left road to the village. The road bends right and then left. The house of the gently farmers is situated at the left side where the road bends left.
If you zoom out, you will find the other villages on the right side.

*** And I forget to mention that just before Dragonte the road splits. It's hard to feel which is the good direction. There is a sign with a church pointing left. DON'T FOLLOW the church. Just after the trees at the right road, you will notice the first houses of DRAGONTE. You can see this also in google maps. The road to the church ends somewhere in the valley. You can see the church of Dragonte when you arrive at the "cantera" (white spot in gmaps) and look behind.

I did the DRAGONTE route on the 1st of October 2011.

Please let me now in this forum if you succeed doing the part I missed: from SAN FIZ DE SEO till VILASINDE. Please make a report of what you saw and what I missed...

 

[Abbeydore]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Thank you GunnarW, I will try, & write some thing, but if I have as 1/2 as good as a time as you I maybe so high on the euphoria that I wont remember a thing
I will try......

 

[GunnarW]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Finally the Dragonte route is partially filmed and can be watched here:
http://vimeo.com/41684856

 

[Abbeydore]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Finally the Dragonte route is partially filmed and can be watched here:
http://vimeo.com/41684856

Thanks Gunnar, Yes you had a lovely day, ours didn't stop raining or snowing all day. Even in the rain I spotted the beautiful Camino stone just after leaving Dragonte, yes you took the steep road up @ the beginning where I stayed on the main road. Great to see the views I/we couldn't see on our day.
Amazing how much comes back too one. Your day looks warm whereas ours was pretty cold & wet, still very beautiful. Thank you so much.
Buen Camino
David

 

[GunnarW]

Re: Alternative paths between Villafranca and O’Cebreiro

Hello AbbeyDore,
Can you describe the part after San Fiz de Seo? Was it more or lesser difficult? Do you have some pictures posted on the net. I'm really curious.

 

[vagabond]

Dear Gunnar!

I did my first camino (camino frances) in nov/dec 2010 then not knowing of the Dragonte route which I came across in Brierley´s book. I will start my camino no 2 from SJPP on the 12th of September if everything goes well and then my mission I´ll undertake is to walk the WHOLE Dragonte optional route God willing that I´ll make the right choices in intersections and confusing smaller paths (as those captured by that Dutch guy´s videocam). Though I won´t be carrying a videocam but an ordinary digital cam I´ll try to make it count and will write down notes as to how to proceed and hopefully my studies of Spanish language will make it all worthwhile! Buen camino, Jonas

 

[Abbeydore]

Dear Gunnar!

I did my first camino (camino frances) in nov/dec 2010 then not knowing of the Dragonte route which I came across in Brierley´s book. I will start my camino no 2 from SJPP on the 12th of September if everything goes well and then my mission I´ll undertake is to walk the WHOLE Dragonte optional route God willing that I´ll make the right choices in intersections and confusing smaller paths (as those captured by that Dutch guy´s videocam). Though I won´t be carrying a videocam but an ordinary digital cam I´ll try to make it count and will write down notes as to how to proceed and hopefully my studies of Spanish language will make it all worthwhile! Buen camino, Jonas

Jonas,

el-camino-frances/topic13239.html
suggest you look @ this thread & print off some A4 sheets of these files, hope you have a good day, we had lots of snow & rain. but still a wonderful day.
Buen Camino
David

 

[GunnarW]

Hello Jonas,
Let us know how you made it. If you start walking from Villafranca del Bierzo, you will certainly succeed.
Till soon,