Hi Isabel,
I just got home from walking the Aragones. It was amazing. I walked from Oloron to Logrono and once I reached the
Camino Frances I realized exactly why I enjoyed it so much.
From mid-July in Oloron, we had no problem on the Aragones with albergues being full with the exception of Sanguesa where we were happy to go to a hostel for the evening. We opted for a casa rural here and there because my walking partner wasn't crazy about the albergue experience. I stayed in the one that Syl mentioned in Canfranc Estacion for 20 Euros each and one in Monreal for about the same. In Sarrance we found the monastery to be booked for the night, but that might have been only because we didn't call the night before. We walked on to reach Bedous in a couple of hours and the Gites there was great. It's on the main town square and the people there were wonderful. We met some great pilgrims, and there were plenty of beds available. That was just 10 euros. If I had to do it again, I'd stay in Bedous. It gave us a very easy day to Urdos -- pilgrim accommodation there was also great. We all had our own room with a sink, shared bathroom.
Jaca's albergue was quite nice and there was plenty of space. The albergue in Arres was very special. That one was crowded but there were still beds when we arrived at 7 pm. In Ruesta the albergue was beautiful, but some people complained about the cost. Dinner, breakfast and bed did add up a bit -- I think it was 22 each, but I thought it was well worth it. That was the best dinner we had on the entire 2-week journey.
It was so great to walk without having to race for a bed as I had to do on the
Camino Frances in 2007. We walked at our own pace, left the albergues late, took long breaks at lunch, and walked in the afternoon. That worked better for us than waking up early, but we had to change our schedule when we got onto the Frances in Puente La Reina. In fact, all of the albergues were full in Pamplona and Puente La Reina when we arrived.
Immediately as we reached Pamplona (we walked from Monreal to Pamplona instead of going to Puente La Reina directly) the differences in the caminos became really apparent. Pilgrims seemed more like tourists to us on the main road, and people were rushing from place to place. One thing I can say about the main road is that the signage was much better. On the Aragones we had some trouble finding the route at times, but mostly in France. Once we crossed into Spain we had lots of helpful yellow arrows.
One place I loved at the end of our trip was the campground in Irache. It's just up the road from the monastery where the camino returns to the highway. It's called Camping Iratxe and they have these little cabins with 2 beds and a half bathroom for 25 euros per room. We were exhausted and needed a break, and jumping into their pool after a long walk from Puente La Reina was truly a spiritual experience for me.
As much as I loved walking the
Camino Frances in 2007, I truly fell in love with the Aragones. We met some great people, but never felt nervous that we wouldn't have a place to stay and never looked at them as competitors for reaching a bed. It is a quieter experience with many hours passing at times without seeing other people. There's a lot less flexibility than on the main road. You have to walk certain distances on some days because there are no options in between, and there are some major stretches with no food or water, so you have to plan a bit more than on the Frances. From Arres to Ruesta, for example is a difficult day.
I hope you have an equally wonderful experience and fall in love with the Camino Aragones.
Buen Camino,
Dominick